Transcriber’s Notes:
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_), and text
enclosed by equal signs is in bold (=bold=).
Additional Transcriber’s Notes are at the end.
* * * * *
A YEAR IN CHINA;
AND A
NARRATIVE OF CAPTURE AND IMPRISONMENT,
WHEN HOMEWARD BOUND, ON BOARD
THE REBEL PIRATE FLORIDA.
BY
MRS. H. DWIGHT WILLIAMS,
AUTHOR OF “VOICES FROM THE SILENT LAND.”
WITH AN
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
BY WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT.
NEW YORK:
PUBLISHED BY HURD AND HOUGHTON,
401 BROADWAY, COR. WALKER STREET.
1864.
* * * * *
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by
HURD AND HOUGHTON,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the Southern District
of New York.
RIVERSIDE, CAMBRIDGE:
PRINTED BY H. O. HOUGHTON AND COMPANY.
* * * * *
This Volume,
MUCH OF WHICH WAS ORIGINALLY WRITTEN IN LETTERS TO MY MOTHER,
IS AFFECTIONATELY AND TEARFULLY
Dedicated
TO HER MEMORY.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from New York, and Passage to the Cape de Verd Islands.
Arrival there. The Island of St. Vincent. Passage to St. Paul de
Loando. The African Continent. Entrance into the South Atlantic.
Arrival at St. Paul de Loando. Bay of Loando. Loando. Fortifications.
Population. Language. A Slaver. Coaling the Vessel 1-25
CHAPTER II.
From Loando to Cape Town. Arrival there. Sunday at Cape Town. The
Black Southeaster. The “Lions” of Cape Town. The Old Curiosity Shop.
The Kaffir College. Public Institutions. The Library. The Museum.
Statuary. The Botanical Garden. The Industrial Schools. Population.
Buildings and Public Works. The Markets 26-58
CHAPTER III.
From Cape Town to Mauritius. The “Whale’s Feed.” Brilliancy of the
Tropical Heavens. The Island of Madagascar. The Isle of Bourbon.
Approach to Mauritius. Harbor of Port Louis. Cholera. Early History
of the Island. The City of Port Louis. The Hurricane Season.
Pamplemeuses. Tomb of Paul and Virginia. The Public Cemetery. The
Zoölogical, or Royal Gardens. The Christian Cemetery. Mrs. Newell’s
Grave. A Mahommedan Funeral 59-91
CHAPTER IV.
From Mauritius to Singapore. The Straits of Malacca. Malacca. The
Continent of Asia. Approach to Singapore. Singapore Harbor. The
Dubash, Ramasamy. “Doing” the City and Environs. Singapore River.
Departure from Singapore. The Northeast Monsoon. Coast of Cochin
China. Approach to Hong Kong 92-113
CHAPTER V.
The Harbor of Hong Kong. Love of Country. War Rumors. The War Steamer
“Saginaw.” The Cold Weather. Position and Name of the Island. The
City of Victoria. Sedan Chairs, and my first Excursion in one. Miss
Wilson’s School. Prince Albert’s Death. “Chits,” and “Chit-Books.”
Confirmation by the Bishop. The Bishop of Victoria. The Camelia
Japonica. Society. Horses and Equipages. “Happy Valley.” The
Race-course. Races. The Cemeteries. Forms of Chinese Graves or Tombs.
The New-Year’s Festival 114-131
CHAPTER VI.
Passage to Macao. The Macao Roads. The Inner Harbor. The Tanka-boats,
and Tanka Boat-women. The Landing. Welcomed by Friends. The Peninsula
of Macao. Settlement and Population. Macao, the Favorite Residence
of Foreigners. The American Consul. Dwellings. Forts. Chinese Graves
not enclosed. The Government Park. The Dutch Admiral. Temple of
Makauk. Temple of Mongha. The Protestant Cemeteries. The Graves of
East India Company Officers. Dr. Morrisson. Chinnery, the English
Artist. Romanism. The Casa Gardens, and Camoën’s Grotto. The Island
of Tui-mien-shan, or Lapa Island. The Ringing Rock. The Lime-kiln
Village 132-150
CHAPTER VII.
Passage to Whampoa. The Chinese Pirates. The Bogue Forts. Whampoa.
Old Whampoa. Bambootown. Newtown. The Islands. The Dry Docks.
Foreign Shipping. “Chops.” “Chop-Life.” Servants. The Little
Breakfast. The Women of China. Mode of carrying Children. Boats
and Boating. Exercise. Forbidding Aspect of Nature in China. The
Tomb of Hon. Alexander Everett. The Bethel “Chop.” Chinese Love of
Noise. Ancestral Worship. The English Vice-Consul, and our other
Neighbors. Fear of Collisions with Vessels. The Heat, Dampness, and
Thunder-storms 151-174
CHAPTER VIII.
Sail to Canton. Pagodas. Ruins of the Barrier Forts. Commodore
Foote. Vessel of a Petty Mandarin. The Imperial Fleet. Boat-Life at
Canton. Dutch Folly. The Hongs of the Merchants. The Old Factories.
The Shameen and Macao Passage. History of Canton. Walls of the City.
Population. Chair-Coolies. Residences of the American Missionaries.
The “Lions” of the Old City. The Wan-shau-kung, or Imperial Presence
Hall. Crowded Streets. Temple of Literature. The Temple of Mars.
The Provincial College. An English Military Road. The Great Eastern
Gateway. East and West Street. The Temple of Horrors. The Residence
of the Imperial Treasurer. Pavilion of the Five Genii. The
Mohammedan Mosque. Street Crowds. My first Sunday in Canton. Marriage
Processions. The Business Streets. Beggars. Chinese Officials
regarded with Respect. Western Suburbs. Howqua Street. Private
Residences of Howqua and Pun-Tingqua. The Dog and Cat Market 175-197
CHAPTER IX.
Buddhist Temples. The Temple of Five Hundred Gods. Temple of
Longevity. The Hai-chwang-sz, or Honam Joss House. Vespers. A Relic
of Buddha. Commemorative Tablets. The Sacred Hogs. Priests burned
after Death. The Necessity of Protestant Missions. Missionaries.
Mission Schools. Mr. Bonney’s School. Mrs. Bonney’s School. The Feast
of the Dragon-boats. Private Gardens of Howqua and Pun-Tingqua. The
Fa-ti, or Flower Gardens. Chinese Shops. Shopkeepers. Ushing. Pohing.
Carvings in Ivory. Hoaching. Chinese Taste for fine Carvings. Curio
Street, and Antiques. Jade-stone. Fans. Suchau Lacquered Ware. Wealth
and Opulence of Canton 198-219
CHAPTER X.
Chinese Women, and their Adornments. Use of Cosmetics. Small Feet.
Mingqua. Foreign Ladies rarely obtain Access to Chinese Ladies of
Rank. Visit to Mingqua’s Family. The Gentlemen permitted to see the
Ladies. Mingqua’s Sons. The House. Chinese Etiquette does not allow
the Shaking of Hands. Visit to a Mandarin Family. His beautiful
Mansion, and the Inner Apartments. The Ladies, and their Salutations.
Drinking Tea. Inspection of our Dress. The Furniture, and arrangement
of the Apartments. Invitation to Dine 220-232
CHAPTER XI.
Removal to Swatow, and Fears of Pirates by the way. Macao in Summer.
Summer Evenings, and the Portuguese Ladies. The Estrada-de-Cacilhas.
Appearance of Macao when approached from the Sea. Romish Festivals.
Corpus Christi Day. Festival of St. John, and the Mummers. Fourth of
July Fête at the United States Consulate 233-248
CHAPTER XII.
Arrival at Swatow. The River and Harbor. The Country. Double Island,
the Residence of Foreigners. The Climate. Continued Heat of the
Summer. Mosquitoes. Names given to Double Island. The Chinese Names,
with their Origin and Explanations. Temple of Ma-tsoo. A Heathen
Festival. The Itinerant Theatre. The Mission Station of the Baptist
Board. The Missionaries. Mrs. Johnson’s School. Persecution of
Converts to Christianity. Imprisonment of an old Native Teacher.
Communion Season of the Mission. Aged Converts. Their Devotion.
London Society Missionaries. Difference in the Dialects and in the
People. Feuds of the People. The Coolie Traffic. Great Mortality.
Graves. Selling of Women. Need of Sanatariums. Ill-Health 249-266
CHAPTER XIII.
Homeward bound. Amoy. Island of Ku-lang-su. The Mission Chapel and
the Rev. Mr. Burns. Success of the Amoy Mission. Persecution of the
Native Converts. Dutch Reformed Mission. Carvings of Olive Stones.
The Pumelo Fruit. Passage to Fuh-chau. Scenery on the river Min.
Places for Firing and Curing Tea. The Farms and Hamlets. The Pagoda
Anchorage. Hospitality of Foreign Residents. Sail from the Anchorage
to the City. Our Boat and Boatmen. Mansion of Messrs. Olyphant &
Co. Situation of Fuh-chau. The City Walls. The Suburb of Nantai. The
Granite Bridge. Our Visit within the Walled City. Crowded Streets.
Tea Pavilions. A Church. Nanka, or South Street. Curiosity of the
People. Residences of the Gentry. Population. The Character of the
People. The Boat-People. Flowers worn by the Women. Artificial
Flowers. Confucian Temples. Wu-shih-shan, or Black-stone Hill.
Extensive and Beautiful View. A Walk on the Walls of the City. Kushan
Peak. Kushan Monastery. Graves and Tombs. The Tombs of the Mandarins
and Men of Wealth. Paths for Horseback Riding. Promenade amid Graves.
The Chinese. Kite-flying. Fuh-chau Marbles. Silver Flowers. Fire
Screens. The English Chapel. The Missionaries. Their Schools 267-289
CHAPTER XIV.
Embarking for the United States. Towed out to Sea. Sea-sickness.
Accommodations and Prospects. The Channel of Formosa, and the China
Sea. Victoria Peak. The Natura Islands. Great Heat. Squalls. A Sea
Monster. Gasper Strait. Anjer. Boats with Ship Supplies. The Straits
of Sunda. Anchor for the Night. A Night of quiet Sleep. Entering the
Strait. Renjang, or Thwart-the-way Island. Passing into the Indian
Ocean. Java Head. Meteors. Sunsets. Brilliant Stars. Trade Winds. A
Nor’wester. A Sou’easter. The Bracing Air of the Cape. Sea Birds, the
Albatross. The Atlantic Tropics. The Depressing Heat. Nearing New
York 290-302
CHAPTER XV.
Capture of the Jacob Bell by the Pirate Steamer Florida. Transfer of
the Passengers and Crew to the Florida. Chase after another “Yankee.”
She escapes. Captain Maffit says he cannot save our Luggage. Excuses
himself by pleading want of Room. His Officers permitted to plunder
it. The Scene of Pillage. Lieut. Reed and others carrying our Silver
and other Valuables into the Ward Room. One Officer selecting Fans
from our Things. Another puts on a Hoop-skirt and trips about the
Deck of the Jacob Bell. The Pirates so absorbed in Plundering
the Vessel as to be oblivious to all else. The Ships drift near
each other. Danger of a Collision. Burning of the Jacob Bell. Our
Piratical Cruise. All Day Sunday are in pursuit of another United
States Vessel. Happily she eludes us. On Monday in chase of a French
Vessel. The Pirates board her. Captain Maffit’s Duplicity. Attempt at
Civility. Hatred expressed towards the North. Incidents. Chase after
the Danish Bark Morning Star. The Pirates bring her to by Firing a
Gun. Our Transfer to her. A part of the Remnant of Luggage allowed
us finally retained by Captain Maffit. Our Destitution. Sail to the
Island of St. Thomas. Voyage thence in the Cunard Steamer Delta to
Halifax. Passage in the Arabia to Boston 303-362
INTRODUCTORY NOTE.
The Empire of China, with its immense population, its peculiar customs
and arts, the character of its people, so unlike that of the nations
of Western Europe, and the imperfect stage of civilization at which
it has halted for many centuries, if, indeed, it has not somewhat
receded towards barbarism, presents an interesting subject of inquiry
and speculation to all who concern themselves with the welfare and
future destiny of the human race. The settlement of the Pacific coast
of the United States, and the navigation of the ocean by steam, have
made China our immediate neighbor, and will bring us into relations
with her people far closer and more fruitful, either of good or evil,
than the subjects of any European power can have. Emigrants from that
populous land have already made a descent upon our Pacific States, and
with whatever jealousy or aversion their arrival may be regarded, they
will probably from henceforth form a part of the stock from which that
region is to be peopled.
The great rebellion which, for fourteen years past, has raged in China
with such prodigious waste of human life, is now brought to an end. The
empire, delivered from this danger and this drain upon its resources,
may now turn its attention solely to the arts of peace. Report ascribes
to the present Government a disposition to allow entrance to the ideas
and improvements of European civilization. The country has been opened
to the teachers of Christianity, and there are signs of a willingness
to adopt new and better modes of intellectual and moral training.
All these circumstances concur to make China and the Chinese objects of
an enlightened curiosity to our countrymen. Scarce anything relating to
that country and its people is destitute of interest to the inhabitants
of the United States. In the little work to which this note is prefixed
will be found accounts of Chinese manners and modes of life derived
from a personal observation, for which the author possessed rather
peculiar advantages. She is the wife of an American gentleman holding
an official station under the Chinese Government, the nature of which I
will briefly explain.
By the treaties which have opened the trade of the empire to
foreigners, the Chinese Government engages to employ, at each of the
five ports mentioned in the treaties, an American, English, or French
Commissioner of Customs, with the necessary subordinate officers,
and with a Superintendent at their head, who resides at Peking, near
the Court. These Commissioners act only between the Government and
foreigners; they are appointed and paid by the Imperial Court, which
possesses descriptions of their personal appearance so minute and exact
that they are easily recognized, and they make to that Court monthly
returns of their official acts, solemnly attested. Vastly more revenue
is gathered into the Chinese treasury since foreigners were thus
employed than before. The native officers were easily bribed, and the
Government received but meagre returns from ports which now yield a
large income. So well has the change worked, that nothing would induce
the Chinese Government to return to the old system.
The author of the pages which follow is the wife of the Commissioner
at Swatow, one of the five ports through which the commerce of foreign
lands is admitted into the kingdom. Inasmuch as the Commissioners may
be sent, by an order from Peking through the Superintendent, from one
port to another, it happens that their residence is often changed; and,
as they are treated with great consideration by the Chinese, both they
and the persons composing their families have peculiar opportunities
for acquiring a knowledge of the country and its people.
Of that advantage the author of the present work availed herself. Her
accounts of Chinese manners and habits of life bear tokens of the
greatest sincerity and conscientiousness. They are manifestly the
precise relation of what was presented to her observation, and are
given without the slightest attempt at embellishment, and without even
any unconscious coloring. Those parts of the work which relate to the
domestic life of the Chinese women will, in a particular manner, engage
the attention of the reader.
The closing part of the narrative is varied by an adventure very
different from what ordinarily falls to the lot of the traveller. On
her return to the United States, for the sake of her health, she was
so unfortunate as to fall into the hands of the pirate Maffit, who
seems to have taken a particular fancy to her personal effects, and
included them among his other robberies. The narrative of her captivity
illustrates the indiscriminating spirit of plunder with which this new
class of freebooters exercise their profession.
W. C. BRYANT.
* * * * *
A YEAR IN CHINA.
CHAPTER I.
A voyage to China in a sailing vessel is an every-day occurrence, and
its monotonous sea-life usually barren of interesting incidents; but
taking a steamer, and making a sort of yachting trip of it, as it was
our good fortune to do, renders it one of the most enjoyable pieces of
sea-travel one can make.
We took passage for Hong-Kong in the _Poyang_,--a new steamer belonging
to the mercantile house of Messrs. Olyphant & Co., and designed for
navigating the Yangtsz-Kiang, one of the largest rivers of China.
Although in appearance greatly like one of our river steamers, she
was constructed,--in respect to strength and durability,--more on the
model of our best sea-going vessels. She was also most ably commanded
by Captain George Briggs, and left the dock at the foot of Tenth
Street, East River, on the afternoon of October 26, 1861. Two or three
steamers, built and intended for the river navigation of China, had,
previous to this time, sailed from New York; but we believe none of
them had carried passengers, while the _Poyang_ had, with the women
and children, sixteen. On going aboard the vessel we found her deck
and cabins quite thronged with people, few of whom were incited by
curiosity, but were attracted thither from affectionate interest, to
make their final adieus, and to cheer with good wishes those of their
friends who were about to leave for that far off land,--
“Beyond where Ceylon lifts her spicy breast,
And waves the woods above the watery waste
To the fair kingdoms of the rising day.”
The morning had been cloudy, and a slight drizzling rain, which set
in a little before the warning bell summoned our friends to leave the
vessel, did not tend to make our last farewells the more cheerful.
A steam-tug was to accompany us down the Narrows, and the Messrs.
Olyphant, with a party of friends, together with several clergymen
and some friends of the passengers, remaining on board, we enjoyed
their companionship for two or three hours longer, during which time
a cold collation was served; and having some missionaries among our
passengers, interesting religious services were had in the cabin,
when, with much earnest prayer, we were commended to the care of
our heavenly Father. The time for the return of these friends having
at length arrived, the steamer was stopped, and with many adieus
they were safely transferred from the vessel to the tug. Then amid
loud cheers and the waving of handkerchiefs we separated; and as the
distance was fast widening between us, the colors of each vessel were
constantly dipping, and making their last signals of farewell. There
was also a general waving of handkerchiefs from the silent group on
our quarter-deck, and a straining of moistened eyes to get a last look
of the little vessel, whose final disappearance, upon the far-off
horizon, told us that we had bidden a long farewell to dear friends and
Fatherland.
Our good steamer ploughed swiftly through the billows, and in a short
time we were well out at sea, having ample opportunity, before reaching
the rough Gulf Stream, to look about and note our surroundings as they
affected our prospects for a comfortable or an uncomfortable voyage.
The kind and stirring character of our stewardess soon satisfied us
as to our cabin prospects, nor did she in the least disappoint our
expectations. In all respects we were well cared for, and everything
was arranged to make us as comfortable as we could be during so long
a voyage. The next morning we were in the Gulf Stream, where we had
very rough weather for three days,--during which time, as we expected,
sea-sickness made its appearance, but fortunately, in nearly every
case, to be of only brief duration. It soon left us to the full
and uninterrupted enjoyment of sea-life; but our early recovery we
attribute chiefly to remaining much of the time upon deck, and to
constant regularity at meals;--the sensible advice, as it proved to be,
of a friend experienced in voyaging, and which we commend to all others
who may at any time be similarly circumstanced with ourselves. A few of
the passengers, however, suffered greatly; and the state-rooms becoming
uncomfortable as we entered the warm latitudes, the half-way invalids
arranged themselves at their ease in the cabin; some lying down, and
others in a variety of attitudes, sitting and bracing themselves
against the sides of the cabin, with lugubriously distressed faces,
presented pictures of a life on the ocean wave which embodied far more
of the grotesque than the picturesque.
We had entered the tropics, and the heat increasing, although we
were almost constantly favored with a fine cool sea-breeze, our
dining-saloon was becoming too warm for comfort. This was somewhat
remedied by resorting to the _punka-frame_,--being a frame, as its
name implies, covered with muslin and placed over the table, where at
meal-time it was put in motion by the machinery of the vessel, and
served all the purposes of a fan. The weather was charming, and we
steamed along as quietly as though on a placid river. We had a kind
and polite company of passengers, and there being clergymen among
the number, prayers were had in the cabin morning and evening, and
religious services were held in the dining-saloon every Sunday, to
which all were invited. Our experienced and gentlemanly captain and his
officers were men to inspire confidence; and the rough passage through
the Gulf Stream had fully satisfied us that our vessel was a stanch and
firm sailing craft, and also that whatever experience and skill could
do for our safety during the voyage, would be done.
On the morning of the 9th of November we sighted St. Antonio, the
northernmost of the Cape de Verd Islands. The atmosphere was hazy, and
at a distance of twenty miles the island had the appearance of a bank
of clouds resting upon the horizon. On closer observation, however, we
saw the rugged sides of the mountain steeps; and what had appeared to
be a heavy, dark cloud, became the well-defined crest of a mountain,
which loomed up in the centre of the island to the height of seven
thousand four hundred feet above the level of the sea. We coasted
for some time within four or five miles of its rocky, precipitous
sides, finding it sublime in lofty peaks, deep gorges, and barren
wastes, which, with its shadowy ravines, presented a series of grandly
unique pictures. The sea was of the purest aqua-marine hue,--a lovely,
tropical sea,--and so clear that one could easily follow the movements
of the finny tribe far down in what seemed to be the deepest deep.
The Cape de Verd Islands belong to Portugal, and are of volcanic
formation, many of them being nothing more than masses of barren rocks
and mountains. They are three hundred miles distant from the coast of
Africa, and have a hot and unhealthy climate.
We were to stop for coals at Porte au Grande, the chief port of the
island of St. Vincent, and, leaving the shores of St. Antonio, a sail
of thirteen miles brought us to the entrance of the fine bay which
forms the harbor of this island. On nearing the shore we found the
scenery more wildly picturesque in jagged rocks, and wonderful mountain
peaks, than at St. Antonio; and it did not require any very great
effort of the imagination to transform the singularly castellated and
battlemented cliffs into ruined castles and fortresses of the olden
time.
The little town or village of Port au Grande,--a miserably squalid nook
of houses,--lies on the borders of a beautiful bay which is shut in on
the south, east, and west by mountains, one of which, directly in the
rear of the settlement, appears like an old fortress, and has a cloud
continually resting upon its summit. The bay itself opens to the north,
from which quarter one gets a cool sea-breeze; and in the distance,
through a yellowish gray, dusty atmosphere are seen the mountains of
St. Antonio. It is said that this peculiar atmosphere is produced by an
impalpable sand blown by the wind from the African coast.
There are but few white people in this colony, but the African race are
quite numerous. We were coaled by these people, who are not slaves,
but, in common with the whites, are always spoken of as Portuguese.
There are slaves on some of these islands, but the Portuguese
Government some two or three years ago passed a law manumitting them
in fourteen years. They speak a _patois_ of Portuguese, English, and
French, mingled with their African dialect. Little boats lying just
under the stern of our vessel were filled with these people, all
chatting glibly, and most curiously interlarding their conversation
with an occasional word of English or French, which only made their
unintelligible jargon seem the more rude and barbarous. The houses
had a most miserable appearance, and were stuccoed in the Oriental
style with a kind of dirty yellow or cream-colored chunam. The place
boasts of one Romish church, the priests of which are Africans, who
have been educated and prepared for the position which they occupy by
Portuguese missionaries. Some of our passengers visited this church for
the purpose of witnessing a marriage ceremony; but their account of
it, together with the other services performed there, did not impress
us very favorably either in regard to the priests or the people. The
weather was very warm,--the mercury rising as high as 87° in the shade
on reaching the islands. There is very little vegetation here; but we
observed the palm growing before one or two houses in the town, and
we also found some tropical fruits, but they were grown on the more
fertile and productive islands. This island is mostly sterile, while
St. Antonio has some fruitful valleys.
There were two wells a little back of the shores of the bay,--one of
them an Oriental-like fountain, which, with its shrubs and overhanging
trees, was a very attractive object. The life-picture which this
fountain presented at evening, when resorted to by the young women
of the place,--who, filling their water-jars, and placing them on
their heads stepped lightly homeward,--reminded us that we were fast
journeying towards the East.
We displayed the American flag and fired two guns on entering the
harbor; but, although there were two United States vessels, besides
some English and French, lying at anchor within the bay, none of them
noticed us. This, however, was satisfactorily explained when the
English Consul boarded the steamer; for we then learned that we had
been mistaken for the Rebel pirate Sumter, and that our approach, and
entrance into the port, had caused a good deal of commotion in the
little colony, the Home Government of which had but a short time before
sent instructions to the Governor that no privateers, of the so-called
Southern Confederacy, should be permitted to stop in those waters for
coals or other supplies; and the officials, being determined to carry
out these instructions, were already on the point of bringing some guns
from a little fort, perched on the steep mountain-side, and placing
them in a position where they could be brought to bear upon our vessel.
The masters of the United States ships were also, for a short time,
in great trepidation; and one captain of a whaler made ready to slip
his cable as we steamed towards the bay. He hailed from New Bedford;
but, instead of being obliged to run away from us, came on board with
evident pleasure, bringing a boat-load of his men to attend our Sunday
religious services. Before reaching these islands we fell in with
several vessels, but in almost every instance, when our colors were
unfurled, there was no recognition of the civility until the distance
between us was fast increasing; and one vessel in particular we thought
exceedingly ill-bred, in not at all noticing our salutations. It seemed
now to us very evident that we had all along been mistaken for a Rebel
pirate. Our vessel was long, low, and dark-looking; but with all these
suspicious circumstances against us, it seemed as though, whenever we
sighted a strange ship, or were entering a strange port, that a single
glance through a glass at the women and children on our quarter-deck,
would have satisfied any one that our mission was anything but
piratical.
The heat had so increased that on the twelfth day of November the
mercury stood at 89°; but although we were to steam directly into a
region of much fiercer heat, we were glad to hear, at noon, that our
vessel was coaled and nearly ready for sea. Towards evening we took
a last look of the beautiful harbor of Porte au Grande, with its
remarkable surroundings; and steaming out of the bay, found ourselves
the next morning coasting along the island of Fuego,[1] and near to
the foot of a mountain by that name, which is a volcanic peak, and
has given its appellation to the island. It was a matter of regret
that this volcano was not in a state of eruption, as we were not more
than twelve miles from it, and could distinctly trace the rough and
jagged edge of the crater, and the deep seams down which the lava had
formerly flowed to the sea. Another lofty mountain, reminding us, in
its outline, of the best pictures we have of Mount Ararat, loomed up by
the side of Fuego; but no mountain on any of the islands can compare
with the latter either in height or grandeur of appearance.
We passed the southernmost point of Fuego, having the island of St.
Jago, the largest, most populous, and productive of the Cape de Verd
group, on our left. We were too far distant, however, to see the land
distinctly, and before the 15th of the month had left the whole group
far behind, and were nearing the African coast. Shortly after leaving
the islands we were spoken by an English merchantman; and it was quite
interesting to observe (although we were several miles distant from
each other) how easily our captain and his first officer, with the
aid of a glass, translated the nautical signs by means of Marryatt’s
well-devised code of signals. The ship in question was the _Ocean Gem_,
bound for Cape Coast Castle; and the captain wished us to report her at
the first port we entered. Cape Coast Castle brought painfully to mind
the sad fate of L. E. L.,--the gifted Miss Landon; and her own words,--
“But thou dost leave thy memory like a ghost,”--
seemed sadly in keeping while sailing so near the spot where her sudden
death, still somewhat involved in mystery, occurred.
When in the latitude of Sierra Leone and Liberia, we were fifty miles
off the coast of Africa, and our first view of this continent was near
Cape Mesurado. It was a very warm, although a bright and beautiful
tropical morning; and after passing a little south of the Cape we
coasted within eight or ten miles of the shore, having in full view a
region of country most luxuriant in rich tropical verdure. The land is
low near the sea, but rises with gentle undulations in the distance;
and with the aid of a glass the thatched huts of the natives could
be distinctly seen, sprinkled among what seemed to be extensive and
beautiful groves of the palm. Many of these groves stretched back
as far as the eye could reach; and the trees being of magnificent
growth, the landscape presented a scene of the most surpassing beauty.
The sea-shore was dotted with fishermen’s huts; and wherever the eye
turned, vegetation wore an aspect rich and luxurious beyond description.
While admiring one of these lovely landscapes a little after mid-day,
opposite the Grain Coast, several small and frail-looking canoes
suddenly made their appearance upon the waters around us, each one
being paddled by a stout man, and a boy of not more than twelve or
fifteen years. When first seen one of the little craft was making
every effort to reach us; and her sable navigators were, by signs,
trying to induce us to stop and barter with them for fish; but paddle
for dear life, as both old and young Africa seemed to do, they were
disappointed; yet nothing daunted they still persevered in the chase,
their little shuttle-shaped canoe darting beautifully over and between
the waves; until, in the end, they were compelled to give us up and
return. In ten or fifteen minutes, however, another canoe appeared,
as if by magic, still nearer to the vessel; whereupon we were so
importuned that our captain finally gave orders for stopping the
engine, and then called stoutly for Africa to come alongside. This
graceful little bark, like the first, was manned by two persons, whom
we thought to be father and son; and they evidently understood the full
force of the phrases,--“Now come on as fast as you can,” “pull away,”
“paddle hard,” &c. They sat in the bottom of the canoe, and their
paddles, which were made of bamboo, were plied without their moving
the body; being first thrust into the water on one side, and then on
the other, with an extraordinary ease, dexterity, and grace, while
they were approaching us with marvellous speed; now with prow and half
her length in air, then sinking behind a wave we nearly lost sight
of her, but directly would appear the heads and shoulders of these
athletic, dusky people, giving unmistakable proof of possessing some
skill, with much vigorous bone and muscle. On nearing the ship they
made us understand by signs that another of their boats, directly in
the rear, contained a man capable of speaking English; and just then
another canoe was seen coming, if possible, with greater swiftness,
the men paddling and propelling her like athletes, while she darted
through the water with the celerity of an arrow from a well-strung bow;
and being in a moment alongside our vessel the occupants lost no time
in endeavoring to barter their fish for bread and clothes. During the
progress of these negotiations some sea-biscuit was given them, which
they devoured with evident relish.
These fishermen did not have stupid faces, but their countenances
beamed with an intelligent and eager interest when nearing us; not
merely an animal eagerness, nor was it that dull and brutified
expression which some maintain to be a predominant characteristic of
the African in a state of nature.
The vessel being once more under way, one of our Anglo-African friends
complacently waved his hand, and, bowing, said “Adieu!” and when
responded to by some one on board ship, seemed much delighted, and,
as if proud of his knowledge of the English language, animatingly
rejoined,--“Good-night!” A good-night salutation from such a source,
and addressed to us, a company of voyagers from the far-off occident,
who at that moment were in danger of _coup de soleil_ from the mid-day
heat of a blazing tropical sun, afforded us great merriment; and
altogether, our falling in with this strangely unfortunate race broke
pleasantly into the monotony of our sea-life, and gave us new and
interesting topics of thought and conversation. The coast opposite
was about fifty miles from Monrovia, and these fishermen had probably
obtained the little knowledge of English, which they possessed, in
process of intercourse with that settlement. The next night we passed
Cape Palmas,--a point we greatly wished to see,--but the sky was dark,
and no land visible. Before morning, however, we had reached the Gulf
of Guinea, and on the 21st of November passed the most eastern meridian
of Greenwich, crossing the equator the same night.
Our entrance into the South Atlantic was disagreeable in the extreme.
It was the rainy season, which one must experience in order to have
any idea of the discomforts of its damp, chilly, and yet sultry
atmosphere. Everything becomes saturated with moisture, and “the damp,
the mould, the rain,” penetrates into one’s bone and marrow, as well
as into all of one’s personal effects. We found it necessary to put
on woollen garments, although the mercury indicated a temperature of
84° and upwards,--one day reaching even to 93°. Accustomed as all of
us were to great extremes of heat, this weather proved most trying and
debilitating,--the chilly dampness giving us aching limbs; nor was the
blazing tropical sun, which shone forth with its withering heat, after
every shower, less to be dreaded.
The night of the 26th of November was very dark and rainy; and as
we were nearing the port of St. Paul de Loando there was a constant
heaving of the lead, and ringing of the bell for the engine to be put
at half speed, until after midnight; when, not having any pilot, and
it not being sufficiently light to admit of steaming into the bay with
safety, we laid to. At eight bells, the daylight beginning to appear,
we were again on the move, with the shores of Western Africa in full
view; and before breakfast, turning a high, sandy bluff, entered and
anchored within the harbor. We were directly boarded by our Consul, Mr.
Cunningham, and some Portuguese officials; the former of whom remained
to breakfast with us, and was evidently pleased at our arrival. He is
a New Englander, and has lived here, altogether, nine years; having
visited the United States only once during that period. From him we
learned many interesting particulars in regard to this colony and its
inhabitants; but a life here must be disagreeable and solitary in the
extreme, for an Anglo-Saxon, and we only wonder how any of our race can
ever become accustomed to the fierce heat and disagreeable character of
the climate.
We anchored in a spacious and beautiful bay, the shores of which were
very bold and barren. Iron and copper abound in this and the adjacent
regions of country; and the bluffs are composed of a coarse ferruginous
sand, having very dark surfaces, in consequence of the liberal
admixture of iron in the soil. At one point, below the bluff formation,
in a part of a curve of the bay near the sea, this _cuir_-colored sand
is heaped in small pyramids, in shape not unlike those of Upper Egypt.
Little is known of their formation, but every year they become smaller,
and are imperceptibly wasting away. They are four-sided, and the outer
edges of their angles are as smooth and regular as though constructed
of masonry. This, together with their uniformity of position, on the
curve line of the bay, gives them every appearance of having been
formed by the hand of man.
Loando is a well-known Portuguese colony, formerly one of the greatest
slave marts on the coast, and no friend of humanity can enter the port
without indulging in the most painful reminiscences of the sad wrongs
and cruelties formerly perpetrated in these waters. In consequence
of the strict _espionage_, however, which the English Government
now maintains on the high seas, the slave-trade cannot be carried
on successfully; and an English Commissioner, whose presence is not
overmuch relished, is also stationed here, in order to see that the
treaty stipulations are properly regarded. But for this precaution, it
is feared that the Portuguese Government would endeavor to revive their
horrible traffic in human beings at the first favorable opportunity.
The town of Loando is situated on a high, sandy bluff, sloping quite
down to the water, and the houses of the European residents, which are
constructed of sun-dried bricks, with very thick walls, are of two
stories, and furnished with verandas. They are located along the curve
of the bay, so as to command the cool sea-breezes, and are finished
externally with pale yellow chunam. The roofs are flat and tiled, while
those of the natives are thatched. The windows are not glazed, but are
draped with some kind of curtain fabric instead, and in some instances
with a fine matting made by the natives.
There are four churches in the place, one of which--an old cathedral,
but now falling into ruins--was built more than two hundred years ago.
We were informed, however, by a Portuguese officer, that no one but
the priests attend at the morning service of mass; and that only a few
negro women were to be seen at church at any time during the day; and
yet but a few weeks before our arrival there was an importation into
this colony of a bishop and thirty priests, from the mother country.
There is a large, low, and substantially built Custom-house near the
beach, where most of the commercial business is transacted, and nearly
all the importations are sold at auction. The town is lighted with
oil, and as seen of an evening from the quarter-deck of the _Poyang_,
presented quite a brilliant and imposing appearance. It is, however,
fast going to decay,--the slave-trade, which enriched and built it
up, being nearly destroyed; this mart, that once nourished, and was
supported by the ill-gotten gains of cruelty and oppression, has now
lost nearly all outward appearance of thrift and prosperity.
Our attention was particularly arrested, on first entering the harbor,
by the situation of the three forts whose battlements frown over its
waters. One,--the San Pedro, built on the bluff point around which
we sailed on entering the bay,--is in a most commanding position to
guard the channel through which vessels enter from the north. It is
built of brick, with an exterior finish of chunam, like that of the
private houses in the town. The San Francisco stands three quarters of
a mile farther down in the curve of the bay, on a low, sandy point or
beach, extending quite out into the water. This fortification is also
of brick, and is finished with a chunam mixture, which gives it the
appearance of being constructed of a light gray limestone. The last of
these three fortifications--the San Miguel--is built on the extreme and
highest point of the bluff on which the town is situated, and is a much
larger and more formidable structure than either of the other two; and
commanding, as it does, the entire sweep of the bay, can be made a sure
defence for the place from any attacks of vessels of war.
The native population of Loando and the adjacent villages is said to
be 40,000, with only three thousand Portuguese; and of the latter four
hundred are convicts, sent here by the Home Government to garrison the
forts, protect the people, and sustain the laws. (?) There certainly
can be but little confidence inspired by the presence of soldiers
made up of such characters; nor can a colony defended by them be a
very desirable retreat. The Portuguese ladies appear on the promenade
only towards evening, and are then carried in palanquins by their
slaves. The extreme heat did not permit of our making an excursion in
the vicinity of the town, and we saw but little, therefore, of its
natural attractions. The tamarind tree was nourishing, and in full
bloom, a little back on the shores of the bay,--its delicate foliage of
exquisite green contrasting beautifully with the surrounding landscape.
Only a few of the whites speak pure Portuguese, nor can one directly
from the mother country understand the _patois_ in use. It is a
mixture of Portuguese and Congo, but made up more of the latter
than the former. The Portuguese themselves fall into the habit of
using it, and are compelled to do so from necessity, as all their
servants,--slaves,--as well as the rest of the people about them, speak
either this _lingo_ or the pure Congo.
Two vessels bearing the American flag were lying at anchor as we
entered the harbor, one of which,--the _J. T. Dodd_,--a large American
bark, was towed from up the coast a few days previous, by an English
gun-boat that fell in with her while cruising in search of slavers.
She was first seen near Cape Palmas, and her commander (professing
to be the first mate) said that the captain and some of the crew had
gone into the interior to bargain for palm oil and ivory, of which they
proposed taking a cargo. The vessel had formerly been a slaver, and
had already taken two cargoes of slaves from this coast, with the last
of which she was herself taken and sold as a slaver. Her appearance
now was very suspicious; but nothing could be done, as her papers were
all right, and her clearance dated from Cadiz, although her crew were
Portuguese. Having, however, all the appliances for shipping a cargo
of slaves, the gun-boat hovered about her for many days. She was old,
decayed, and in a leaky condition; and her self-styled mate finding
that he could not elude the vigilance of John Bull, finally made a
virtue of necessity, and wisely concluding that his old craft was
unseaworthy, engaged the captain of the gun-boat to tow her into this
port, where she was sold the day after our arrival for $2500.
Here, as at Rio, in South America, the slave boatmen always sing at
their work, and their strangely irregular and monotonous refrains are
heard from early morn until late at night. The coaling of our ship was
done by these men in the following manner: The coals to be shipped
were lying on the shore directly opposite where we were at anchor,
and a gang of slaves rowed lighters to the beach, where there was
another gang of men and women, with native baskets, shaped much like
our New England wooden bowls, and holding nearly half a bushel. These
they filled with coals, and placing them on their heads waded out to
the lighters, into which they deposited their contents. At the ship
the coals were hoisted from the boats in large tubs, by means of a
pulley and tackle; and at the head of the gang doing this work was a
tall Congo, of fine physique and great muscular strength, who, full of
animation, cheered on the men, and acting as a sort of fugleman for the
party, was the first to pull at the tackle and the first to stop, each
time giving the word of command to the rest of the gang. He also led
them in singing their wild and mournful refrains, pulling at the rope,
and keeping excellent time; now assuming the most fantastic and comical
attitudes, and now with the head, body, and hands in motion, keeping
up a sort of half dancing, half stepping movement of the feet, at once
very grotesque and amusing. If at any time a pause in their labors
chanced to occur, this man, waving his hand and throwing back his head,
with delighted expression and a broad grin on his features, began the
singing and dancing with renewed energy, which quickly communicated
itself to the whole gang, and for a few minutes the scene before us
was startlingly wild and weird-like. These people work slowly, and
an overseer was constantly moving about among the shore-gang, with a
whip in one hand, ready, as one of our passengers remarked, to stir
them up the moment they showed any disposition to flag in their labors.
We trust that the day is not far distant when, in our intercourse and
dealings with this unfortunate race, there will be some recognition
of the principle taught by our Saviour’s golden rule,--“As ye would
that men should do to you, do ye also to them likewise.” The most
valuable of these slaves can be purchased on the coast for twelve or
fourteen dollars a head, while at the island of Cuba, and also in most
of the Southern Slave States, previous to the rebellion, they would
have brought as many hundreds,--and one of our party thought that the
leaders of the gang would there be valued as high as two thousand
dollars! None of this unfortunate race that came under our observation
appeared weak either in mind or body, nor did their faces indicate a
vicious and hardened character. Several grades of them visited the
vessel, most of whom were tall, well-formed men, arrayed in all kinds
of African costume--some more or less grotesque in appearance--and many
wearing only the _cummerbund_; while others, bearing themselves with a
manly and reserved air, were elaborately and picturesquely draped in
cotton prints of large figures, and strikingly brilliant colors. We
had two subordinate Custom-house officers on board, night and day, as
long as we remained in port, who were also pure Africans, but dressed
in the European style. All the high officials were Portuguese of
gentlemanly bearing, and wearing the showy uniform of Southern Europe.
We received an early visit from the English Consul, Sir Henry Hartley,
a Post-Captain in the Royal Navy. He is a man quite advanced in
years, having been in the naval service at the time of the fall of
Napoleon, and was also on board the ship that carried him a prisoner
to St. Helena. There was no English mail steamer from this dark,
out-of-the-way corner of the earth, and we were greatly indebted to Sir
Henry for his thoughtful and kind politeness in offering to send our
home mail, with his despatches, to the English Consul at Lisbon, where
they would be forwarded to England, and thence to the United States.
FOOTNOTE:
[1] _Fuego_ is the Portuguese word for fire.
CHAPTER II.
On the afternoon of the 29th of November, after having passed four
days of terrific heat in full view, if not “amid Afric’s burning
sands,” we were finally coaled, and had the steam up ready for sea,
when our captain discovered, much to his chagrin and disappointment,
that the “red-tape” regulations of this dilapidated, out-of-the-world
colony would not permit him to sail until the next morning. It seems
that the harbor-master,--called by the Portuguese _commandante_,--a
sort of official wearing a military cap with bright buttons, and a
uniform ornamented with gold lace, and having a bearing decidedly of
the Spanish hidalgo style,--would not give the _Poyang_ a clearance
nor pilot us out of the harbor until the next morning, because Captain
Briggs had not informed him twenty-four hours previous, as was the
rule, that he designed sailing that evening. The captain, not being
aware of this necessary preliminary, sent a message to the officer;
and, pleading his want of information on the point as an excuse,
requested him to overlook the unintentional disregard of his port
rules, and to permit him to leave. But the Loando port rules, like
the laws of the Medes and Persians, were not to be altered to suit
our convenience, and we were obliged to succumb to the necessity of
remaining another night in the harbor. Our hearts did not go out
very kindly to this grandiloquent _commandante_, for keeping us one
more night than was necessary in the stifling heat and malaria of
the African coast; and on boarding us the next morning, although our
officers received him with the most reserved civility, it did not
seem to disturb his pride, or to diminish in the least degree his
imperturbable reticence and lordliness, which was well worth the
imitation of the most skilful diplomate. The boat of this dignified
functionary, manned by six stalwart Congo slaves, was towed astern the
vessel as we steamed out of the harbor; and although we moved slowly,
still the boat had rough sailing in the swell, and it required no
little skill and strength for her steersman to keep his little craft
afloat. When, however, we began to move more rapidly, it was both
comical and painful to witness the affrighted faces and attitudes of
our swarthy friends in the boat; nor less ludicrously serious were
their beseeching tones, as again and again they cried out “Capitan!
Capitan!” There was one poor fellow, in particular, who did not regain
his composure until long after his master, the “Capitan,” had spoken to
him from the quarter-deck of the vessel, reassuring him of his safety.
The boat and paddles were painted white, and the Congos were also
neatly dressed in white, with little white linen caps upon their heads;
and when this pompous official left us with his slaves facing the bow
of the boat, and paddled swiftly landward, the spectacle was uniquely
picturesque.
On sailing out of the harbor we passed an outer point of the high bluff
on which a portion of the city is built, and at the extremity of which
is situated the fortress of San Miguel, already mentioned. South of
this elevation there runs out a tongue of land, or sandy beach, where
our “_commandante_” lived; his house, with its verandas and Eastern
style of architecture, placed in a little patch of tropical green, and
surrounded with palm-trees, presenting, as we steamed past, quite an
attractive Oriental picture.
The change from the close and heated air of Loando to the fresh,
pure, and bracing sea-breeze, as we sailed down the coast, had a most
magical effect upon all of us. One must exist four days and nights in a
stifling furnace heat, such as we endured, in order to fully appreciate
the life-giving influences of the change. While in port the average
temperature was 96° according to our thermometer; but had the mercury
marked ten degrees higher it is doubtful if we could have suffered
more. We were all of us accustomed to a high degree of temperature at
home during the “heated term,” as it is called; but the peculiarity
about the heat which we experienced at Loando was that it produced
an atmosphere distressing to the brain, paralyzing to the limbs, and
prostrating to the whole system. There is no heat in the world more
withering and baleful in its influence upon strangers,--particularly
the Saxon race; and exposure to it, and the night air, is soon followed
by an attack of the African fever. The fact that we were leaving an
atmosphere so deadly, and were in such excellent health, (although
at the island of St. Vincent we were told that the yellow fever had
appeared among the garrison at Loando,) inclined our hearts to a
sentiment of profound gratitude for our continued preservation, and the
mercies we were still enjoying.
We had a quiet sea, and continuing to sail near the coast, were on the
morning of the 2d of December off Port Alexander,--a settlement near
Great Fish Bay,--which is at the mouth of the Nourse River, between the
sixteenth and seventeenth degree of south latitude, and a little north
of the latitude of the island of St. Helena. Directly on passing this
port we steamed near the shore of Cimbeba,--a barren and sandy desert,
which stretches along the entire coast, reaching below the tropic of
Capricorn,--or from Great Fish Bay to Santa Cruz, a place on the coast
of Damara; making a distance of nine hundred miles, where neither fresh
water, nor any vegetation can be found. The shores are very bold, and
their sandy banks deeply and peculiarly seamed, as though gullied by
heavy rains.
On the 4th we outstripped the sun; passing that luminary in twenty-two
degrees and fifty-eight minutes of south latitude. A little before
twelve o’clock of that day, our kind and courteous captain, always
ready and happy to add to our comfort, pleasure, and stock of
information, called us to come on the quarter-deck and see how
thoroughly attenuated and shadowless we had become. Readily obeying
the summons, we were directly walking under the full rays of a mid-day
sun unattended by our life-long shadows; and although aware of the
reason for the absence of our old companions, the thing seemed so
strangely peculiar that we could not resist the continual impulse to
look searchingly, first on one side, and then on the other, and finally
down to our feet, in order to see if there was not a little remnant or
line of our old friends still remaining. Not being successful in this
endeavor, we were obliged to confess to some little sympathy with poor
Peter Schlemyhl, and a readiness to borrow his seven-leagued boots,
that we might go quickly in pursuit of our lost umbras. While nearing
the sun the weather was much cooler,--the mercury falling to 72°,--and,
from experience, we became agreeably aware that his perpendicular rays
are less powerful than when they are cast somewhat obliquely upon
the earth. We now encountered head winds, together with a very rough
sea,--the effect of a gale which had just prevailed along the coast;
and again old Neptune made faces at some of us, while at others he
actually pulled his beard and shook his trident, disagreeably reminding
us that he was still ruler of the ocean, and did not mean to be
forgotten.
Soon after encountering the heavy sea up the coast the weather became
cloudy, and the cold increased until the mercury fell to 62°, rendering
the atmosphere not unlike that in the vicinity of icebergs, and causing
some of our timid ones to feel not a little apprehension. In addition
to this, a dense fog closed in about us, so that we could see but
little farther than a ship’s length; and the light being obscured at
the entrance of the port which we were nearing, we were obliged to lay
to until the morning dawned, and the sun, rising in a clear sky, had
dispersed the fogs and vapors.
The morning was serene and beautiful; but although we were early on
deck we found that our vessel had already passed Robin’s Island, lying
at the entrance to Table Bay, and dividing it into two channels, at
either of which ships may safely enter. Nor were we in time to get
the best view of the mountains composing the head, rump, and tail of
the couchant lion; but Table Mountain was clearly defined, and as
we rounded Green Point and steamed up the bay, passing the shipping
at anchor, the villa-like country residences, with their lawns and
gardens, were seen in the distance, stretching along the mountain
slopes by the sea, and soon the African, but, to us, home-like, city of
Cape Town rose upon our view.
The city of Cape Town lies at a curve of the bay, almost directly
at the base of Table Mountain and the Lion’s Head; the first of
which, rising 3500 feet above the level of the sea, had its square,
table-like top covered with clouds of fleecy whiteness.[2] The latter
rears its proud head sublimely; and we thought as we gazed upon this
scene, combining so much of the grand and beautiful, that no fairer
landscape could be presented to the eye than the magnificent array of
ocean and mountain scenery with which we were surrounded. Doubtless
our respite from the monotony of sea-life rendered this feeling more
appreciable than it would otherwise have been, and prepared us to enjoy
this never-to-be-forgotten scene with the most intense relish and
gratification.
We anchored in Table Bay on Sunday morning, the 8th of December, having
been but ten days out from Loando. Directly on our arrival we learned
from the Custom-house officials who boarded the vessel that a severe
gale, which had raged here and along the coast for ten days previous,
had just passed away, and that we might felicitate ourselves that we
had seen it in no worse form than in its last dying swells, which,
during the last few days of our passage, had vexed the seas which we
traversed.
Although all our surroundings tended to impress us with the fact that
we were in a foreign land, there were, also, many pleasant things to
remind us that we were still within the pale of Protestant Christendom,
and that this Colony, like her motherland, was under the civilizing and
sanctifying influence of the Bible. Again we heard the Sabbath bells,
whose tones were touchingly sweet and home-like, and were delighted
to array ourselves like shore-people and go to church. Table Bay is
subject to frequent visitations of sudden and very severe winds; and a
rule of the port makes it obligatory upon all masters of vessels, in
taking people to and from the city, to use a boat smaller, but in other
respects much like the lighters employed in lading ships, and which
is so constructed as not to be liable to capsize in a sudden squall.
Taking passage in one of these boats, we were landed at the jetty,
(which, with the streets leading to it, was wearing a Sunday-keeping
aspect,) and proceeded directly to St. George’s Cathedral. On entering
the church we were seated by the verger, or beadle, who wore a black
serge gown, made after the fashion of the surplices worn by the
clergy. The Rev. Mr. Douglas, Dean of the Cathedral, preached from
the twenty-first chapter and thirty-third verse of St. Luke’s Gospel,
and gave us a practical discourse, in a style of writing, and manner
of delivery at once polished and elegant. He was assisted in the
services by three clergymen, and the entire Cathedral Service of the
English Church was intoned by a choir of eighteen colored boys, none
of whom were more than twelve or sixteen years of age. They were the
sons of Kaffir chiefs, and students of the Kaffir College, of which we
shall say more hereafter. They were arrayed in white robes, and their
responses were not only melodious, but characterized by a reverential
sweetness. The aisles were paved with red tile, and mural tablets
adorned the walls. The choir, which was situated on the ground-floor
of the Cathedral, at the right of the chancel, had, on one side, a
very fine organ, ornamented in front with a row of small Corinthian
pillars, and on the other side, stalls for the choir, who were shielded
from view, when sitting, by drapery.
The Cathedral is an imposing structure, in the Grecian style of
architecture, having a peristyle of Corinthian columns in front, and
a lofty spire surmounted with a cross. The exterior is covered with a
stucco of the same ochroleucous material used at Loando,--this being
the prevailing style in which the buildings and public edifices at
Cape Town are finished. The attendants at the Cathedral, we were told,
comprised the _élite_ and aristocracy of the city, and were mostly
refined, as well as stylish and fashionable in their appearance. We
observed, however, among them, and occupying the same pews, colored men
and women, who also bore unmistakable marks of being educated persons.
In the seats occupied by the Sunday-school children the colored and
white race sat, indiscriminately, side by side; and as we walked down
the centre-aisle, on leaving the church, we observed a very tall and
well-dressed Kaffir, with prayer-book in hand, and having a gentlemanly
bearing, walking close by our side. Many of the people living out of
town drive in to church; and there was quite a display of handsome
equipages. The horses of the Colony are superior, and one of an
inferior grade is rarely met with. Of vehicles, the English hansom
seemed a favorite “turn-out,” and much in use in the city; but in such
a warm climate it cannot be as comfortable as some other modes of
conveyance.
We were anchored just off from the foot of Table Mountain, and the
weather continuing serene, on returning from church we found that the
table-cloth of cloud had lifted from its top and entirely disappeared.
This peaceful serenity, however, only presaged a coming tempest; and
at about seven in the evening dark clouds began to gather in the east,
and over the top of the mountain, and the roar of the approaching wind
sounded like the heavy booming of distant cannon. In a very short space
of time the clouds had not only covered the flat top of the mountain,
but were rolling and floating with infinite grace and beauty down its
side in a cataract, presenting to the eye a sort of aërial Niagara,--an
object of sublimity which could not be contemplated without producing
in the mind a sensation akin to awe. This gale, which continued with
unabated fury for forty-eight hours, blew with increased violence at
night, when it howled fearfully through the rigging of our ship, in mad
concert with the waves which dashed furiously against us. A large fleet
of vessels were riding at anchor in the bay, with their bows landward,
and not a stitch of canvas flying,--forming the foreground of a marine
view, which, as seen from our quarter-deck, was wild and grand in the
extreme. To describe it, we know to be impossible. We only wished for
the pencil and genius of a Church to transfer it to canvas. Instead of
decreasing in violence, as we had hoped, the storm assumed a far more
terrible and threatening phase; and fearing that it would cause our
vessel to drag her anchors, orders were given to get up steam, so that
if necessary we could put out to sea in order to avoid foundering in
the bay. The stanch little _Poyang_, however, shivered but slightly,
and did not change her mooring; although the wind from sundown until
midnight was like a hurricane in violence. These southeasterly gales
are of frequent occurrence, sweeping not only the bay but the town
itself. They are said to blow away all disease, and to render the
climate salubrious and healthy; hence the inhabitants are pleased to
call the “black southeaster” the Cape Town doctor.
During the prevalence of the gale it was perilous to go on shore,
even in the substantial and safe-sailing lighters; and at one time it
would have been nothing short of downright madness for any one to have
attempted it even in them. The next day, however, was calm, and the
bay was again as placid as a river; so, taking advantage of the beauty
of the morning, and feeling that if we wished to go sight-seeing we
must improve every moment, (as the coaling was to be prosecuted with
the utmost vigor, in order to sail with despatch,) we took a boat, and
sallied forth to “do” the town.
The streets have a fine business-like appearance, and cross each other
at right angles; the jetty at which we landed being at the foot of
Aderly Street, which terminates in a beautiful avenue of English oaks
near the base of the mountain. Leaving the busy and bustling crowd at
the wharf, and passing a short distance up Aderly, we enter Darling
Street, which is a fine avenue, crossing the former, and running for
some distance parallel with the bay. Here, judging from the extensive
haberdashery establishments, the women of Cape Town must do their
shopping. The best hotel of the place is also in this street, as well
as the “Old Curiosity Shop,” kept by Bridges, and a place of interest,
as will be seen further on. We shall not disguise the fact, that,
true to our womanly instincts and tastes, we were curious to learn
everything possible in regard to dress, and the ornamental advantages
enjoyed by our Saxon sisters of this out-of-the-way South African
Colony; but found, during the little shopping which we executed,
that there was no particular difference between them and our own
countrywomen in this respect: the main point with the tradesman being
to get hold of their money, and the principal point with them being to
spend it when they could get it,--which are, perhaps, two of the most
unerring indications of civilization and refinement that can be met
with. We next visited the book and print shops in quest of sketches
of scenery, and delineations of the different peoples common to the
country; but could find nothing that would be of any service to us,
except a few small cards, on which were paintings, in watercolors,
of the different native races inhabiting South Africa. These being
represented in native costume, and at their particular occupations, as
warriors, fishermen, water-carriers, &c., (which, together with their
huts and little boats, were well and spiritedly executed,) gave one a
tolerably correct idea of the personal appearance of the various tribes
coming under the jurisdiction of the Colonial Government, besides
portraying many living further to the north, and occupying a region of
country beyond their rule.
We have already alluded to the fact that in St. George’s Cathedral
the white and black worshippers sat side by side, in recognition of
the Christian equality of the two races. We found, however, that this
principle of equality was not confined to the Church, but that it
pervaded all the business classes,--with whom the oppressed African had
equal rights, and equal opportunities to elevate himself and his race
in the scale of being.
On Plein Street we entered a highly respectable haberdasher-shop
which was kept by colored people. The proprietor was absent, but his
wife--a woman of excellent address--was behind the counter, and her
son, a young man of pleasing manners, was also acting as clerk. The
tradespeople of Cape Town, like the tradesmen of England, have their
dwellings in the same building with their shops; and on perceiving that
we were strangers and Americans, the mother and son invited us to walk
into their parlor, where it was cooler, and we could refresh ourselves
after our long walk. The son led the way, and greatly entertained
us by showing some rare African curiosities, and telling us of the
interior of the country and its people. He was what would be called
a well-educated young tradesman, and we fancied had passed a portion
of his youthful days in England. His use of our vernacular was with
a taste and skill more like that of a well-read professional student
than a business clerk. We were told of another son who was in England,
but made no further inquiries, although we were much interested in the
family, and wished to know more of their history.
From what we could observe, these people occupied a position in the
community corresponding in all respects with that of the whites in the
same business; and no one appeared to feel that this state of things
was any other than it should be.
At No. 9 Darling Street we found the “Old Curiosity Shop” to be a
place of singular interest; where the skins of animals, the plumage of
birds, all kinds of Kaffir curiosities, and many other of the natural
productions of Africa could be procured; while Mr. Bridges, the keeper
of the shop, entertained us highly with his enthusiastic conversation
in regard to his treasures, and communicated some of his personal
reminiscences of Dr. Livingstone, and Sir Gordon Cumming, both of whom
were frequenters of his shop during their visits to Cape Town. The
old man, however, inclined to the opinion that the narrative of the
latter must be taken _cum grano salis_. Soon after entering this shop
the keeper appeared at the door of a room in the rear, with the head
of a gemsbok in his hand, which he kindly showed us. It had just been
sent to him from the interior, and being a very superb specimen of
that animal, he was about preparing it for preservation. In looking
about for the wonderful in this extensive collection, we noticed some
exceedingly delicate shells, which were kept in a glass vessel; and on
making some inquiries in reference to them learned that they were found
in the year 1856, on the sandy beach at Kalk Bay,--a bight in Simon’s
Bay,--which is situated between the naval station and Cape Town. The
old man told us that, as far as he could learn, they had never been
found in any other locality; and also that they had appeared but once
at Kalk Bay, and then were visible but for a short time. He had sent
some of them to Mr. Layard at the British Museum, who informed him
that he had never before met with, nor heard of them, and that they
were nameless, not being mentioned or described in any works treating
on conchology. We purchased a few of them, hoping to place them in
the hands of some naturalist; but, with all the rest of our Oriental
curiosities, they were destroyed on our homeward voyage by the officers
of the pirate Florida.
While out sight-seeing we learned that there was a Museum, Public
Library, and a Botanical or Public Garden, besides two Colleges, which
were desirable places to visit. We accordingly went direct from the Old
Curiosity Shop to Widdow’s Hotel,--a comfortable English inn on the
same street,--and after refreshing ourselves with a generous _tiffin_,
(a term used at the Cape, and at the East generally, for lunch,) took a
carriage, and drove to the Kaffir College. This institution is designed
for the education of the sons of Kaffir chiefs; and at the time of
our visit had been established but two years. It is, to a certain
extent, under Government patronage; and the parents only pay for the
instruction of their sons a nominal sum in cattle.
Mr. Glover, the Principal, (who is a nephew of Sir George Grey, the
former Governor of the Colony, but now Governor of New Zealand,)
was absent, having gone to England to solicit further aid for the
Institution. The establishment is handsomely situated in the curve
of the bay; and, occupying a fine slope of land at the southwesterly
foot of Table Mountain, commands an excellent view of the shipping.
It is over a mile from town, and is well furnished with shrubbery and
shade-trees; and having belonged to one of the early Dutch settlers,
came under cultivation at the time of the first occupation of the
Colony. The house and out-buildings were also erected by the first
proprietors.
Some years ago this place fell into the hands of the Colonial
Government, and at the time of the Sepoy Rebellion was used as a depot
for horses, one thousand of which were purchased in the Colony for the
use of Her Majesty’s forces in India, and kept here, in an immense
Dutch barn, until they could be shipped to Calcutta.
This building is constructed of brick, and is provided with very
high, thick walls, and pointed gables, having a roof supported by
bamboo rafters, and covered with the Cape rush. It is now being put
to good uses, having under its spacious roof the chapel, school-room,
dining-hall, and most of the workshops occupied by the Kaffir students.
The house, which faces seaward, is also built of brick, having two
antiquely pointed gables roofed with tile, and is surrounded with
picturesquely fashioned Oriental verandas. We regretted to learn that
the clergyman in charge, during Mr. Glover’s visit to England, was also
absent, having gone to town; but on being introduced to Mr. Hewitt,
the Chief Warden, as strangers and Americans, who wished to see the
Institution, and learn something of its history, plans, and prospects,
this gentleman received us very kindly, and ushering us into the
parlor, said he was sorry it was their half-holiday, as a number of
their boys had just left for town, and we could not see them at their
studies; but remarking that he would show us the establishment with
pleasure, directly led the way to the principal building, of which we
have already spoken, and which, in spite of its enormous proportions,
was nearly hidden by trees and shrubbery.
We first entered the carpenter’s shop, where we found a number of
boys at work, under the instruction of an English mechanic. Here Mr.
Hewitt pointed out a lad of twelve or fifteen years of age, as a son
of Umhala, one of the most distinguished Kaffir chiefs. The boy’s name
was Condele, and he was in fact a prince of the blood royal. They all
appeared cheerful and happy, although seemingly shy of strangers, and
were diligently at work, making lecterns and other church furniture.
Mr. Hewitt remarked that they worked chiefly on such articles, which
were made of teak-wood and finished in a nice manner. We also visited
the other workshops, which presented about the same appearance,
excepting the tailoring-room, which was under the supervision of
an English woman, whose sewing-class numbered but seven boys. The
school-room was a large and airy apartment, floored with red tile,
and well furnished with the necessary fixtures. Upon its walls were
suspended maps and cards, and on the latter were printed texts of
Scripture.
The chapel, a spacious and well-proportioned room, was appropriately
fitted up with seats, having an altar, chancel, and reading-desk of
teak-wood, all made by the students. It was used only for the daily
Church Service, as on Sunday the officers and students attend worship
at St. George’s Cathedral; and the choir of boys we heard there, as
already stated, was composed of the students from this College. The
walls were prettily painted in a sort of fresco, and were done _con
amore_ by some amateur lady-artists of Cape Town. Over the altar
and between the two windows back of the chancel, there was a large
illuminated cross, about which was entwined a vine; while over and
at each side of it was traced in illuminated letters the text, “I am
the true vine, and my Father is the husbandman.” The stone-colored,
or shaded ground of the walls was flecked with what seemed to us
a representation of the _fleur-de-lis_, although it may have been
intended for the plume of the Prince of Wales. This was done in a
tint of maroon. The floor was of wood, and carpeted, and the building
was well ventilated,--the ceiling of all the apartments rising to the
pointed roof, from which height a rustic chandelier was suspended,
constructed of some dark wood, in the form of a cross, and furnished
with sockets for candles.
The dining-room was long, ample, and furnished in a plain but
comfortable manner; and the walls were ornamented with large engraved
portraits of Queen Victoria, the Prince Consort, and their children,
all in gilt frames. Prince Alfred, during his recent visit to the Cape,
became greatly interested in this College, and on returning to England
presented it with these pictures. The boys have a thoroughly religious
and useful education, but at the same time each one is obliged to learn
some trade. They are allowed to choose whatever handicraft they may
fancy, and almost all trades were popular among them except that of the
tailor, which is regarded as a menial service, and in their own country
is always performed by women, who, wherever the light of the blessed
gospel has not shone, to the practical illumination of the heart, are
looked upon as a degraded and inferior class of beings. Gardening, for
the same reason, is also in bad odor; and the pursuit of agriculture
has yet to gain even a respectable position among these royal Kaffirs,
who rarely work in the garden attached to the College, excepting when,
as a slight form of punishment, they are adjudged to serve at that
employment for a certain time.
The design of the Institution is preparatory,--the cleverest of the
boys, as they advance in their studies, being sent to England for a
more thorough education, after which they usually return to their
native country as missionaries and teachers. One had already been sent
there, and was pursuing his literary course at Oxford.
In the same building with the tailoring-room there was an English
missionary lady, who had a class of six Kaffir girls. Three of them had
been with her fifteen months; the rest a much shorter time. All of the
former were quite proficient in reading, and one little creature, in
particular, pronounced her words with an accent and voice of inimitable
sweetness.
After walking through the garden, and the small vineyard adjoining,
we returned to the parlor, where a very nice cup of tea awaited us;
and our first introduction to this Eastern custom reminded us that
we had already reached the neighborhood of the Orient. While we were
refreshing ourselves, a large music-box (also the gift of Prince
Alfred) discoursed some charming music; after which the gentlemanly
warden gave each of the ladies a bouquet from the garden, and we
left with agreeable impressions of that enlarged and noble Christian
benevolence which had established the Institution, and was still
steadily working for its advancement.
Mr. Hewitt had formerly been a missionary, and one of our party asking
him if the Kaffir were more stupid and difficult of cultivation than
other heathen, he replied that they were less so, and learned more
readily. He also remarked that the boys possessed great facility in
learning, and were quick and ready at all kinds of handicraft. The
next morning a part of the missionary party on board our vessel also
paid a visit to this College, and meeting the acting Principal, who
had formerly been a missionary to the Kaffirs in the interior, had
an interesting conversation with him about that race, together with
their present religious condition and prospects. He regarded them as
the descendants of Ishmael, and in proof of this pointed to one of
the boys whom he thought of a decidedly Arab physiognomy. What further
ground he had for such a theory we did not learn. The Kaffirs are
readily distinguished from the other African tribes, and are considered
more courageous, determined, and independent than the Hottentots, or
Bechuanas, who, with the former, constitute the chief races of South
Africa. Their skin is of a brownish black tint, while the Congos of the
western coast are of a shining jet-black color.
On returning to the wharf we found that a light southeaster was again
disturbing the waters of the bay; and setting sail for our ship, drove
with so much violence before the wind that we not only _shipped_ seas,
but _un_shipped our rudder,--a circumstance which placed us, for the
time being, in a position of more danger than we had been in since
leaving New York.
As the _Poyang_ was to be ready for sea the next afternoon, the early
morning found us again in the streets of Cape Town,--it being our
design to visit the Museum and Library, together with the Industrial
Schools belonging to St. George’s Cathedral, and also, if possible,
to take a peep at the Botanical Garden. All these, together with the
Government buildings and the African College,--an institution open to
the youth of the city,--are in the same neighborhood, and, situated on
either side of the avenue of oaks mentioned as a continuation of Aderly
Street, are enclosed by a brick wall. Over the entrance-gate leading
from the street into the avenue, an inscription on the wall gives the
year 1848 as the date of the foundation of the Library and Museum.
The building appropriated to these institutions is a brick edifice
of Grecian architecture, having a peristyle of Corinthian columns,
and stands directly at the right of the entrance to the grounds above
mentioned. At the time of our visit the exterior was not completed, but
the building within was finished throughout in a substantial English
style.
In the entrance-hall, or saloon, were a few pieces of statuary and some
pictures; and on the right was a door leading to the Library, which
is a commodious room with well-filled alcoves. We could not learn the
number of volumes it contained, but the arrangements and fixtures were
excellent,--each department and language having its separate alcove,
and a desk for the use of visitors. There were also handsome and finely
arranged library-tables placed at each end of the room, which, with the
other fixtures, were made of the rich dark teak-wood; and suspended on
the wall, at the head of this apartment, was a full-length portrait
of Queen Victoria, arrayed in her royal robes. When Prince Alfred
visited the Library, this painting was covered with drapery until the
band struck up “God save the Queen!” then the son, on getting his first
glimpse of this excellent picture,--a very life-like representation of
Her Majesty,--was so overcome that he burst into tears.
Leading out of the Library we entered an apartment called the
Educational Room, in which were all kinds of philosophical and chemical
apparatus,--the last of which was particularly extensive. The walls of
this room were literally covered with diagrams, paintings of botanical
specimens, maps, and charts.
On the other side of the entrance-hall is the Museum, to which the
public have access only for one day during the week. Our visit had
fallen upon a day when it was closed; but the obliging librarian, being
informed that we were Americans, and were to sail in the evening,
went at once in search of the person in charge, who, on making his
appearance, said he would admit us with pleasure, but must lock us in.
Then showing us where we could touch a bell when we desired to go, he
closed the door, and we found ourselves in a large apartment containing
an extensive collection of well-preserved animals, birds, and reptiles,
as well as geological and fossil specimens, and many curious and
rare articles connected with the early history of the Colony. Our
attention was particularly attracted by a large representation of the
_mammalia_, _ruminantia_, and _quadrumana_; and the groups of hunting
tigers and hyenas were so life-like in attitude and appearance as to
disagreeably startle one on turning suddenly upon them. It did not
require any great effort of the imagination to give these animals all
the forms and features of life, or to fancy the savagely grinning
creatures really regarding us as a very toothsome morsel ready for
their enjoyment. There were very large collections of the _ophidia_ and
_batrachia_, preserved in spirits and stuffed. If the expression can be
considered allowable, South Africa is certainly rich in reptiles. We
noticed two remarkable skeletons of a python and a yellow cobra, with
all their bones perfect and of an ivory whiteness. These were under
glass cases, so arranged as to exhibit the reptiles in their natural
attitudes; and with heads erect, lying half-straight and half-sinuous,
the terrible beasts impressed us as frightfully hideous and life-like.
The representations of the deer family were also numerous, comprising a
stuffed specimen of nearly every buck mentioned by Sir Gordon Cumming;
and a beautiful little animal called the clip-springer, which stood in
the same group with the latter, was a very attractive and interesting
object. There was also a fine collection of coral, and the specimens
of _radiata madrepora_ were very beautiful. Among the minerals we
noticed several large and superb specimens of crystallized malachite.
The birds were very numerous, and were preserved in fine order,
being arranged after the usual mode in glass cases, which entirely
covered one side of the large room. The beauty of their plumage I
shall not attempt to describe. Some of the most numerous were of the
orders _palmipedes_, _grallatores_, and _rasores_;--the collection
comprised specimens of nearly all the birds of South Africa, from the
little humming-bird, with its exquisite rainbow tints, to the large,
coarse, and sinewy ostrich,--with every variety of plumage, from
the most gorgeous to the gravest hues. The bright and gay, however,
predominated; and the red of the flamingo, the yellow and bright salmon
of the parrot species, together with various green and orange-colored
shades, were most numerous. Our admiration was greatly excited by a
bird, as large perhaps as our common woodpecker, but in form very like
our finest barnyard cocks. He was a spirited-looking creature, of
true lordly port, with a handsomely shaped comb delicately edged with
red, which formed a beautiful contrast with his rich, orange-colored
plumage. The tips of his wings and tail were flecked with black, and
he rejoiced in a name admirably in keeping with his bearing, being
called the “cock of the rocks.”
A group of Kaffirs, composed of two men and a woman, done in plaster,
and painted black, strikingly represented the contrast in social
position of the two sexes among that people. The men, who were arrayed
as native warriors, stood proudly looking up, in attitudes denoting
independence, manly bearing, and self-reliance; while the woman,
kneeling between them, having a downcast and servile expression of
countenance and posture, with her infant fastened on her back, and
in her hands a stone, significant of her readiness to perform the
menial labor of grinding the corn, looked the impersonation of patient
endurance and meek submission. The whole was spiritedly executed, and
its faithful embodiment of the degrading influence of heathenism upon
woman led us to feel more devoutly grateful, than we had ever before,
for the blessed influences of Bible Christianity, which places our sex
upon a secure religious and social equality with man.
We found here several interesting relics connected with the history
of the old Dutch Colony, among which was an oaken chair covered with
quaint carvings, upon which was fastened a card, setting forth that
“Piet Gysbert Nood, Governor of the Colony of Good Hope, died in this
chair in 1728.”
The Botanical Garden, which fronts the Library and Museum building,
is rich in tropical trees, shrubs, and plants, and remarkable
for containing a great variety of the cactus family. The arbors
were covered with beautiful creepers, among which we noticed the
passion-vine growing in much luxuriance.
The Industrial Schools are on the other side of the street, and occupy
two buildings of gray stone. The one appropriated to the Infant
School is a pretty little Gothic structure, and was established in
1850, under the patronage of the wife of Sir George Grey, being now
called Lady Grey’s School. The advanced department was established by
Lady Charlotte Bell, of England, in 1820. Although under government
patronage, these schools are not entirely charitable institutions, a
small sum being usually paid for tuition. The school-rooms are large
and well supplied with fixtures, including a philosophical apparatus,
which the managers of the advanced school have recently introduced
at a great expense, for the purpose of extending the usefulness of
the institution, and affording the advantages of a superior English
education to all. The principal and several of the teachers now
employed are from England, each having stipulated, before leaving
home, to teach five years. In both schools the white and black children
sit together, and are in the same classes. We found the principal (or
rather preceptress) to be a gentle, intelligent, and lady-like person;
and deeply regretted that we had not more time to remain, and learn
something further of her particular experience in the education of
colored children.
There are 32,000 people in the city of Cape Town, of whom 10,000
are Mohammedans, who have their priests, mosques, and schools. We
met one of their priests in the streets, in full costume, with his
Mecca-blessed _comboloio_, or rosary of beads, in his hand. A learned
Oriental traveller once told us that a Mohammedan priest is rarely seen
conversing without his beads, with which he toys much as a Spanish lady
does with her fan.
There are five churches in Cape Town, one of which--the old Dutch
Reformed Church in Aderly Street--was first built in 1713. The fort and
city hospital, as well as all the other buildings and public works,
are of a thoroughly substantial character; and a breakwater, the
corner-stone of which was laid by Prince Alfred during his visit, and
which is to extend from Green Point two miles out into the bay, was in
process of construction while we were there. This great work, which
will cost several millions of pounds, is built by casting large pieces
of stone into the water until high enough to erect a stone-masonry upon
them. At the time of our visit there had already been expended upon
this enterprise the sum of one million of pounds sterling. Wharves,
also, like those at Liverpool, are to be built. Every day our ears
were greeted with the familiar screech of the steam-whistle,--as fifty
miles of the railroad, which is to terminate at Port Elizabeth, on the
eastern coast, were already completed and in running order. The whole
work was to be finished during the autumn of 1862. The Custom-house is
an extensive brick building, standing not far from the wooden jetty at
the foot of Aderly Street.
The market is held in a large square, from four to six o’clock in the
morning, when the vegetables and fruits remaining unsold are disposed
of at auction. The cattle and sheep are much superior to those of St.
Paul de Loando,--the sheep brought on board at that port bearing a
strong resemblance to goats, and the wool (if it could be called wool)
was much like the hair of that animal. The face of the creature was the
only thing that looked _sheepish_. The different breeds of long-tailed
sheep, for which the Cape was at one time so celebrated, are said to
be almost extinct, the crosses of the Merinos and Leicesters having
superseded them, as being more profitable, both on account of the
quality of mutton and the fineness as well as the yield of wool. This
article is exported to England in large quantities every year, and some
of it, also, finds its way to America; but the staple and quality of
the Cape wool has of late years greatly improved.
FOOTNOTE:
[2] This is called, at Cape Town, the “Table-cloth.”
CHAPTER III.
Fully aware that we were leaving the most home-like port we should make
during the voyage, our adieus to Cape Town were with mingled feelings
of gratification and regret. Thrift met us there at every step; and
the place had a substantial and prosperous, as well as a quiet and
comfortable, English air, which one could not fail to notice after
visiting the miserable, tumble-down Portuguese settlements of Porte
au Grande and Loando. To visit Cape Town directly after stopping at
the last-named places made us feel profoundly grateful for our descent
from the Anglo-Saxon stock, and impressed us with the truth of the
oft-repeated remark that “the English are the best colonists.” This is
undoubtedly owing, in a great degree, to their persistent energy and
industry, and also to the fact, that, wherever they go, the spirit of
enterprise and the elevating influences and comforts of our Protestant
religion goes with them.
At three o’clock on the afternoon of the 12th of December we weighed
anchor, and our good ship being turned once more seaward, we steamed
out of Table Bay. Taking our seats on the quarter-deck, just under the
bridge connecting the wheel-houses, and facing the stern, we prepared
to note the points of interest as they passed before us while sailing
out of the bay. First the city, with its background of mountains,
receded in the distance; then the shipping; and passing the breakwater,
the fortress, the city hospital, and light-house, we rounded Green
Point, with Bird’s Island on our left, and were soon fairly out at
sea. We had a stiff head-wind to encounter; but our good ship ploughed
her way swiftly through the dark-green billows, and soon were seen in
outline the other side of the Lion’s Back and Head,--the former greatly
lengthened, but the latter bearing itself as loftily as ever,--and in
the valley between the two a fine road wound its way over the country,
with large and fertile farms on either hand.
At this point we made a _détour_ along the coast, and obtained a fine
view of the other side of Table Mountain, the coast formation reminding
us strongly of the Highlands of the Hudson. Then came a succession of
the same high and rugged elevations, which, like Table Mountain, were
oblong in form and flat at their summits, having their squared ends
abutting directly upon the sea, whose waves were dashing against their
rocky sides. Directly after these we passed two lofty peaks which were
united at the base, having a gradual slope covered with soil made
of the _débris_ which had washed down from their barren and almost
perpendicular steeps. As we sailed along the coast we saw much mountain
scenery of a similar character, although occasionally a conical peak
appeared, reminding us of the Cape de Verd Islands. Some, also, were
in form not unlike the pyramidal sand-hills on the shore of the bay
of Loando; and on rounding a huge mountain of this description, which
stood boldly out towards the sea, Table Mountain disappeared from
view. The strata of these summits are peculiar in their formation,
being nearly horizontal, and are evidently of volcanic origin. After
meeting a small coasting propeller, which rode the waves beautifully,
notwithstanding the heavy swell, we lost sight of the Lion’s Head,
which had so long towered on high in gloomy grandeur, and came to a
descending range, over whose slope old Table Mountain again reared its
head, forming the background to a splendid landscape, with the sea
in the foreground, and a little cove hard by, in which was nestled a
small hamlet. Further on we passed a more regular range, which was
perpendicular from the base; and then, turning, had a lateral view of
the huge, square range we had first passed, now stretching as far back
as the eye could follow its dim outline into the interior. Then came
a narrow and verdant tongue of land, which widened as we approached,
but which was soon lost in another range of mountains very different
in appearance from any of the former, being more rounded, and greener
near the base, although their tops wore a barren and sterile aspect.
Until reaching this point we had kept within three or four miles of
the land; but now, although we still sailed due south, the coast-line
was receding, and being summoned to tea, our panoramic picture of all
that is wild and wonderful in romantic and sublime mountain scenery was
suddenly broken.
On returning upon deck, we found our course much the same, and the
distance which we were making from the shore increased very little; but
the coast tier of mountains was lower, and we had a fair view of two
distinct parallel ranges, with light, fleecy clouds resting between
them, and glistening in the rays of the setting sun. We were also fast
approaching the southernmost point of the Cape of Good Hope, which is
here about five miles wide, and going below, kept our watch at the
stern of the vessel until eight o’clock in the evening, when on the
smaller of two mountain-peaks near the sea appeared the revolving light
of the Cape. In the foreground of these mountains a long tongue of
land extends far out into the sea, and upon its extreme point stands
another Pharos, to guide the mariner along the coast in safety. We had
now a heavy sea, with the darkness increasing; and, anxious to get a
view of the revolving light from the quarter-deck, we ascended, but
had barely gained what we deemed a sheltered position, when a great
sea broke over the deck, and sweeping the place where we stood, gave
us a most thorough and unexpected _douche_-bath, which sent us below
_instanter_, where we were glad to remain for the night.
The next morning there was comparatively little sea, and at eleven
o’clock we were off Cape Lagullus,--the southernmost point of the
African continent,--and with the aid of a glass could see the
light-house, and a small bay or cove near at hand, where vessels were
riding at anchor. In the afternoon we met a fine clipper ship under
full sail, and speeding through the water like a bird before the wind.
On nearing her we displayed the American flag, when she promptly ran
up the Union Jack; and the signals being again put in requisition, we
learned that she was the _Lord of the Isles_, from Hong Kong.
Steaming onward in a northeasterly direction, Africa gradually receded
from our view, and we had barely sighted and passed the southeastern
point of Algoa Bay, when we met with another sea, whose swell
continued with unabated violence for three days, and greatly impeded
our progress. Soon afterwards, when very nearly in the latitude of
twenty-six degrees south, and in longitude thirty-seven degrees east,
we sailed through many miles of what is termed “the whale’s feed,”
which, by the action of the currents, was floating in streams to the
southeast. It is said to be an animalcule, and its appearance is not
unlike oak saw-dust; while underlying, and mingling with it, is usually
found an abundance of craw-fish. Whales, being very fond of this food,
are frequently found in its vicinity, and the next day we were spoken
by an American whaler, and stopped, while her boat was sent off for
news. She proved to be the _Young Phœnix_, of New Bedford, and had been
out fourteen months without any tidings from the United States, having
taken during that time eleven hundred barrels of oil. It is impossible
for one inexperienced in the hardships of sea-life to properly
appreciate the feelings of a ship’s crew thus isolated, on meeting
with a vessel so recently from home. The interest with which they
perused the supply of papers which we gave them must have been of that
absorbing character for which the English language affords no adequate
expression.
The weather was becoming very warm, and the mercury, which had already
risen to 85°, was fast seeking a higher elevation. We had passed
the “whale’s feed,” and were voyaging along with but little that was
noticeable to break the monotony of sea-life, or to add to our stock of
information. We observed, however, that the waters assumed a tint of
blue deeper than we had noticed in the Atlantic tropics. While sailing
there we were particularly charmed with the extreme brilliancy of the
stars; often beguiling the hours until late at night, in watching the
rising of the planets, and the appearance of the glorious Southern
Cross. Never, however, were we so enchanted with the splendor of the
starry vault as when tracing our quiet course upon the Indian Ocean,
particularly while on our passage from Port Louis, in Mauritius, to
Singapore. Venus, which even in our Northern clime is a planet of
extraordinary beauty, shines here with such regal splendor as to cast
a shadow, and, with the other heavenly bodies, stands out, as it
were, in bold relief; thus fully realizing the strange conceit of the
ancients that the stars were “fixed,” or riveted like nails to a solid
super-mundane sphere.
No description can convey to the mind the fascinating, poetic charm of
the lovely Southern Cross, or the hopeful and religious thoughts which
it inspires, as it is seen sparkling and glistening while floating
through the deeply clear, and transparent ether of the tropical
heavens. The serenity of the evening, the balmy weather, and cloudless
sky, wooed us to the open air, where, hour after hour, we watched the
rising of this, and kindred constellations that never illuminate our
Northern sky; together with the curious Magellanic clouds, which are
supposed to be other planetary systems. The superb lustre of Aldebaran,
and the increased brilliancy of the Pleiades, in Taurus, together
with the surpassing effulgence of the stars composing Orion,--the
largest and brightest of the Southern constellations,--often held us
spellbound for hours; and most reverently impressed us with the truth
of the Psalmist, that “the heavens declare the glory of God, and the
firmament showeth His handiwork.” We also caught something more than a
faint glimmer of the meaning of the Almighty, who, when addressing Job,
said:--“Canst thou bind the sweet influences of Pleiades, or loose the
bands of Orion?”
On the afternoon of the 20th of December we were nearing the
southeastern shore of the “Island of the Moon,”[3] and before night
were within eight or ten miles of the land, with the shadowy outlines
of two large mountains distinctly visible. We coasted for several hours
along the low shore of this comparatively unexplored country; but,
“Green Madagascar’s flowery dales,
Her vernal lawns, and numerous peaceful bays,”
were enveloped in a hazy, dreamy, tropical atmosphere that hung over
the mountains like a veil, and floated across the lowlands, soon to
be dissipated by the glorious sun, even as the shades of heathenism
and the darkness of superstition, which once entirely enveloped in
tenfold night this beautiful country, are beginning to be dissipated
by the glorious light of the Sun of Righteousness. We sighted Fort
Dauphin in the bright tropical moonlight, which also brought to view
the mountain ranges and the coast, that here assumed a bolder outline.
We were heading, however, for the Isle of Bourbon and the Mauritius;
and the morning found us once more where the clear cerulean of the
horizon met only the darker blue of the ocean. We had looked our last
upon a land combining in its romantic mountain-scenery much that is
grand and sublime in Nature,--a land whose flora is unequalled, being
particularly rich in rare and superb orchids, and remarkable for its
traveller’s-tree, from whose leaf-stalk, when pierced, pure water
gushes to refresh the thirsty wayfarer.
Early on the morning of the 23d of December we were sailing along the
coast of Bourbon, which we first made at its southwest point, and
were watching the day, then just breaking beyond its lofty volcanic
mountains, the tops of which became radiant as the early light
played upon their summits. This island lays considerably higher than
Mauritius, but its scenery is said to be less beautiful. The shore-base
of the coast-line formed by the mountains is square and precipitous,
and in one place extended out into the sea for a mile or more, like an
immense breakwater. We were now off St. Denis, which is the chief port
of the island, although a very insecure one during the prevalence of
high winds. Ships lying in this harbor are always kept in readiness to
sail at a moment’s warning; and we counted a fleet of fourteen sail,
with all their canvas set, lying in the offing, and ready to slip out
to sea at the first intimation of foul weather. At a sort of wharf,
or jetty, a flag is hoisted whenever boats from the ships can land in
safety. There were remarkably deep gorges between the mountains in the
rear of the town, which one of our missionary party, who had lived for
some years in Northern India, compared to those he had seen among the
Himalaya Mountains, through which ran living streams of water. Passing
other mountains whose steeps were cultivated, and covered with a rich
verdure half way up their sides, we sailed a little to the east, and
St. Denis disappeared.
As we coasted along the island the mountains gradually receded from our
view, and we were soon off a more extensive slope of country reaching
far back from the sea, with finely cultivated plantations whose fields
teemed with a rich tropical luxuriance, and picturesquely situated
houses dotting the landscape in every direction.
We had scarcely lost sight of Bourbon, when at mid-day of the 23d of
December we discerned the broad-shouldered mountains of Mauritius,
sixty miles in the distance, and at five o’clock in the afternoon were
coasting near their base, intending to make the harbor of Port Louis.
These mountains presented an almost infinite variety of forms. At one
point an old castle-like looking peak passed before us, followed by
several smaller ones, all rising directly out of an extensive plain;
while another cone-shaped mountain that attracted our attention seemed
as if surrounded by natural lawns, which were covered with a luxuriant
herbage of the richest green. The country seemed to be in as high a
state of cultivation as at the Isle of Bourbon, and the plantations,
with their neat residences, gave every indication of thrift and
prosperity.
While admiring the rarely equalled beauty of the scenery there came
very suddenly upon us a slight tropical shower, which passing away
rapidly, as the sun reappeared, the arch of a beautiful rainbow sprang
from behind the mountains, giving to the varied landscape an air of
surpassing beauty and enchantment. This scene, however magnificent,
was but the prelude to another equally grand and beautiful. A tropical
sunset is always a splendid spectacle, but a tropical sunset after
a storm is an event in one’s lifetime,--one of those few phases
of Nature, in fact, which cannot be described any more than the
impressions which they create. A scene like this it fell to our lot to
witness on that memorable evening, as the shower moved off,--its dark
skirts tinged with brilliant sapphire by the setting sun. Then there
were the white and fleecy clouds that lagged in the wake of the storm,
exquisitely tinted with the pale red of the opal and the delicate
violet of the amethyst,--so beautiful as almost to vie with the hues of
the rainbow, whose broken arch gleamed just over the distant mountains.
We fired our guns, and rounding a lofty peak, (which, with a
signal-station upon its top, loomed up at our right,) entered the
harbor of Port Louis. We did not wait to take on board a pilot, for
although it was our Captain’s first visit to this island he was too
accomplished a navigator to require any such aid. With the vessel at
half speed, we felt our way up the channel by continued soundings,
until we reached the quarantine ground, our quarter-deck filled with a
happy group, whose hearts seemed overrunning with delight at the beauty
of the scenes around them, to say nothing of our anticipated pleasure
in “doing” the town and environs of Port Louis.
The warning advice of an English ship-captain whose vessel we passed
while coming up the harbor,--“not to attempt going to the wharf,”--fell
like a discordant note upon our ears; and on reaching the anchorage a
burly English pilot came alongside, but would not touch his foot to the
gangway-stairs until well assured that there was no sickness on board,
and that no death had occurred since our leaving the Cape. He was a
bustling, loquacious man, and when ascending to the quarter-deck said,
in a very brusque and loud tone of voice, “Well, we have the cholera
thick in this port!”--the effect of which announcement was electrical,
and, mute with sudden fear and disappointment, one by one, we withdrew
to the cabin below.
But “the art of our necessity is strange;” and although the _chateaux
en Espagne_, reared upon the pleasure and satisfaction we were to
receive in looking up the lions of the city, and its neighborhood, had
vanished like the beautiful clouds of the tropical sunset, and in the
fearful summer heat, (the mercury ranging at 90° and upwards,) we were
about to meet a dreadful pestilence, no one seemed panic-stricken, and
very little was said on the subject. It was, however, interesting to
notice the similar effect this entire change in our prospects had upon
all on board,--each one seeming more inclined to commune with his own
thoughts than to communicate them to others. At this time the words of
Isaiah came very forcibly to mind: “In quietness and confidence shall
be your strength”; and none seemed to doubt, that, to be fortified with
the Christian’s hope and trust in such an emergency, was of infinitely
more value than a display of senseless bravado, or yielding, on the
other hand, to a weak and unmanly fear. We learned afterwards that the
pilot had somewhat exaggerated the extent of the disease, not being
in the most “melting mood” imaginable in consequence of the rapidity
of our movements, which prevented his boarding us in time to place us
in quarantine. For many weeks previous, all vessels from the Cape of
Good Hope had been compelled to pass this ordeal, on account of the
prevalence of the small-pox at the latter port during the autumn.
No one was permitted to go on shore until the port physician had
visited the ship, and satisfied himself as to our general good health.
We were already somewhat reassured of the safety of our position,
and Captain Briggs, after visiting the city, returned with an account
so different from the pilot’s statement, that we were satisfied the
disease had more of the endemic than epidemic character, and was
confined, as near as we could learn, to a locality on Grand River, two
miles from Port Louis. In 1854 the cholera raged fearfully in the city
of Port Louis, and the most stringent measures were now being taken to
prevent a similar calamity. It had been brought to the port by a vessel
from Calcutta; and the ship which we spoke at the entrance of the
harbor was also from that city, being loaded with India Coolies, among
whom the cholera had appeared while on the passage. On her arrival, of
course, the vessel was promptly quarantined.
The island of Mauritius was discovered in the sixteenth century by
Pedro Mascarenhas, a Portuguese, by whom it was called _Ilha do Cerno_;
but Van Neck, a Dutch navigator, who touched at the island in 1598,
finding it still uninhabited, called it Mauritius, in honor of Maurice,
the Prince of Orange. It was, however, abandoned by the Dutch, and we
were told by a citizen of Port Louis, that the story in regard to their
having been driven out of the island on account of the great multitude
of rats that infested it, was universally received as an historical
fact.
In 1721 the French took possession of the island, and much of its
present prosperity is due to the ability, and good management of
its French Governor, the celebrated M. de la Bourdonnais. It was
afterwards, however, taken by the English in 1810,--to whom it was
definitively ceded by the peace of 1814. The island is said now to
contain 350,000 inhabitants, of which number only ten or twelve
thousand are Europeans. The country is very mountainous, and the soil
is of a reddish cast; but the land is generally fertile, well-watered,
and rich in tropical productions,--the trees, fruits, and plants common
to the Eastern tropics growing here in great perfection.
Notwithstanding the island produces excellent coffee and spices,
sugar is cultivated to the exclusion of almost every other staple
commodity,--three hundred millions of pounds being exported annually,
most of which goes to France. The black-wood, or ebony, grown on the
island is said to be the most solid, close, and shining of any in
the world, and if all of it is like that which was brought on board
our vessel, it has a well deserved reputation. Very little corn, or
grain of any kind, is raised; most articles of provision, and other
supplies, being imported from the Cape of Good Hope, Madagascar, India,
and Bourbon. The extensive grazing lands of Madagascar produce fine
cattle; and from that island, where, Camoëns says,--
“The lowing herds adorn the vales of green,”--
the Mauritians are supplied with beef.
African slavery, which formerly existed here, was abolished more than
twenty years ago; but some of the most remarkable and attractive
natural points of scenery on the island are said to be connected with
the injustice and misery experienced by that unfortunate race, who,
although guilty of a blacker skin than the races of Asia, are now
daring to look up and claim an equal brotherhood with the family of
man. On becoming freemen, they stood comparatively little chance of
bettering their condition, or of remaining as they were. It is said
that, amid the toil and moil of the more privileged and advanced
Asiatic races with whom they came in competition,--none of whom were
under the unrelenting ban of prejudice that everywhere meets the
African,--these poor people have mostly passed away. It is, however,
acknowledged that some who are left have succeeded in making themselves
comfortable homes, and in gathering together some wealth; and those who
have attained such positions of comfort, and respectability, have done
so in the face of difficulties, which, to have been overcome by one of
our own race, would have caused him to be regarded as an indomitable,
and very clever Saxon.
The city of Port Louis is the chief port, and capital of the island,
and lies in latitude 20° 9′ 56″ south, and in longitude 57° 28′ 41″
east. It is situated at the head of a triangular bay, and is partly
built on the slopes of the mountains, which enclose it on three sides.
The highest of these is the Pouce, which rises directly in the rear
of the town, to the height of 2800 feet, and from which another range
of mountains extends to the sea in a southwesterly direction. The
mountain range, which encloses the town and its beautiful suburbs,
extends to the northeast; and back of them, towering high above his
compeers, is the summit of the celebrated Peterboth. The town, as seen
from the harbor, has rather an imposing aspect. The Creoles, Coolies,
and the descendants of the former slave population, occupy different
localities, and an occasional minaret of a mosque is seen in the Coolie
quarter of the city.
Port Louis was first settled by the better class of French families,
many of whom were of the old _noblesse_; and their descendants, still
keeping up the old ancestral dignity, have given to the society in
which they live, a tone of superior cultivation and polish, rarely
met with even in countries nearer the centre of civilization. The
population is said to be between fifty and sixty thousand, and
comprises representatives from nearly every nation on the face of the
earth. It is considered one of the most cosmopolitan places in the
world, all the foreign trade of the island being transacted there;
and at early morning, during the business hours, the bustling crowd
of English and French merchants, military, and policemen, sailors,
and Chinese, Arabs, Bengalese, and Parsees, together with natives
“to the manor born,” all seen in their different national costumes,
present to the eye of an untravelled American a scene at once novel and
interesting.
There are large warehouses on the wharves; and a few steps from the
landing an entrance, through a spacious gateway, leads into a large,
open space, called the Place d’Armes, which is planted on each side
with trees. The Governor’s house is situated farther beyond, towards
the mountains.
Previous to 1845, sugars and other articles sent from the Mauritius to
Great Britain were charged with the same duties as the like articles
from India; but during that year the custom rules and regulations were
changed, and the duties being fixed the same “as on like goods of the
same growth, produce, or manufacture of the British Colonies in the
West Indies,” the trade was thus placed on the same footing.
The fort, which commands the town and harbor, stands on a spur of the
mountain we rounded on entering, and the passage being difficult, every
vessel on approaching is required to hoist her flag and fire two guns;
and at night a light must be shown, when a pilot goes on board and
steers the ship safely into port.
For the first three months of the year the island is subject to
terrible hurricanes, or _cyclones_, and during that time the weather
is unsettled. Squalls of wind and rain precede these tempests; and
their advent being near at the time of our visit, heavy rain-clouds
were every day seen to expend themselves on the tops, or down the sides
of the mountains, and sometimes a slight sprinkling was received on
board our vessel. We watched these never-failing precursors of the
gales that were to follow, with fearful interest, after hearing the
English seamen’s chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Richards, relate his perilous
experience during the year previous, when he and his entire family came
very near being destroyed by remaining on board the Bethel ship through
the hurricane season. His remarkable escape did not have the effect of
calming our anxiety, and we were more than ever anxious to be at sea
again in order to get out of their latitude.
We were told that on account of these winds the dwellings in the town
are only of one story, having, for security, strong outside shutters,
called hurricane-shutters, and doors of unusual strength. When the
barometer indicates the coming of the hurricane, a gun is fired from
the citadel as a signal for all vessels to take down their upper masts
and yards; and at the same time a flag is hoisted at the port-office,
as a warning to all ships lying outside the inner harbor to put out to
sea. If a vessel hesitates, or refuses to move from the outer anchorage
when thus warned, a gun is fired upon her from the fortress, and she
is compelled to leave. Absolute necessity requires such a course, as
no ship can remain in the outer harbor, during the prevalence of these
winds, without being driven upon the rocks and destroyed. The inner
harbor can accommodate but a few vessels at a time, which are moored
in rows, side by side, and in some way fastened together, with a small
clear space of water between them. Each vessel is anchored both at the
bow and stern, which reminded us of St. Paul’s shipwreck, when they
“cast four anchors out at the stern, and wished for the day.”
It is well known that Mauritius is the scene of St. Pierre’s little
romance of “Paul and Virginia,” and that their tombs are in a garden at
Pamplemeuses. The _St. Geran_ was wrecked on the neighboring coast,
in 1745, and a bight adjoining it is called the Bay of Tombs,--Paul
and Virginia, according to the old legend, having been buried there.
Pamplemeuses is reached after a charming drive of seven miles in a
northerly direction, and no one visits Port Louis without going there.
Therefore, hoping for the best in regard to the sickness in the city,
we also made a pilgrimage to that classic region.
It was Christmas Day, and the heat very oppressive,--the mercury rising
to ninety-six degrees and upwards in the shade; but we did not set
forth on our excursion until late in the afternoon, when the fierceness
of the sun’s rays was upon the wane, and the air somewhat tempered by
the evening breeze from the ocean. Leaving the ship and landing at the
wharf, we encountered a group made up of nearly every nation of the
East, from the jet-black African to the light Arab, who, squatting on
the ground, were intently engaged in gambling with cowries; and passing
on, we walked through the arched gateway, already mentioned, to the
Place d’Armes, where the gentlemen of our party, after some chaffering
with a group of voluble drivers, and owners of open barouche-like
carriages, succeeded in obtaining two vehicles, and we drove off. The
streets of Port Louis, and the roads leading from it, are macadamized
in the best manner, and the gutters, as well as the sidewalks in
the town, are paved with stone. Many parts of it are ornamented with
shade-trees, and an ample supply of excellent water is brought from the
mountains, over deep gorges, in aqueducts built of stone masonry. One,
in particular, near which we passed, was constructed in the Romanesque
style, and had a very antique and imposing appearance.
The drive was delightful, the road being lined on either side with
hedges of the aloe and cactus, interspersed with various other tropical
shrubs, flowers, and trees. The curiously tasselled flowers of the
aloe, borne upon a foot-stalk fifteen or twenty feet in height, was a
particularly attractive object; and along the road were seen extensive
sugar-plantations bordered with hedge-rows, together with the houses
of the planters, and the thatched cottages of the Coolies. The palings
enclosing the yards of private residences were in many instances hidden
by a species of convolvulus,--a creeper more beautiful in flower and
verdure than any of our Western varieties,--and some were surrounded
with hedges of exquisite flowers, while within were beautiful little
parterres filled with many kinds of flowering shrubs and plants.
Mauritius is literally an Eden of flowers; and on Christmas morning,
besides having our cabin-table resplendent with their beautiful
tropical tints, some of our Christmas greetings came accompanied with
beautifully arranged bouquets. To us the Oriental _sylva_ seemed to
partake of a no less remarkable character. There was the banyan,
bamboo, fig, almond, mango, banana, cocoanut, and different varieties
of the palm, together with the pomegranate, unfolding its beautiful
flowers; while at every turn, large flowering trees, in full bloom,
displayed the richest tints of yellow, purple, and red. One of these
trees, in particular, we shall always remember for its stately and
gorgeous beauty. It was growing by the road-side, at Pamplemeuses, and
was at least forty feet in height, having a full acacia foliage of
delicate green, amid which were large clusters of brilliant scarlet
flowers. We afterwards learned that it was the _Poinciana regia_,
commonly called _mille fleurs_, or _flamboyant_, and that the time of
its blossoming is from December to April.
Everything combined to make our drive so like enchantment that we
almost questioned within ourselves whether we were there _in propria
persona_, or only dreaming. It being Christmas, all classes had a
holiday, and the Coolie population, as well as the Creole, were out
arrayed in their best. The whole length of our way, both on going to
and returning from Pamplemeuses, was thronged with these people. There
was the Bengalee woman, who had donned her brightest red, yellow, or
purple _sari_;--a garment made of one long piece of cotton cloth, or
some other light fabric, that gracefully covered the head and person;
and walking beside her was her Hindoostanee sister, with her dress
composed of three garments; viz. the _kurti_, which we should term a
jacket; the _saya_, answering to our skirt; and the _chudar_,--a piece
of white muslin, or calico print, of one yard and a half or two yards
in length, which is thrown lightly and often jauntily over the head.
The men, resplendent in holiday garbs of white and red,--their loose
robes flowing gracefully,--were walking, or riding in donkey-carts;
and well-to-do Mussulmans drove past in carriages, or sauntered
leisurely along the road in groups; some of whom, when overtaken by
their hour of prayer, prostrated themselves as we passed. Everywhere
mingled with the moving crowd were Coolies occupied in their various
callings: some we observed with large circular flat baskets on their
heads, not unfrequently filled with chickens; and others, with heavily
laden panniers of fruit and vegetables, were trotting along at a
brisk pace, to and from the city. Both sexes had lithe figures, and
were exceedingly erect and well proportioned. Both also showed their
fondness for ornaments,--wearing rings not only on their fingers, and
hanging to their ears, but also pendent from the nose. It was a common
practice, also, to fasten an ornament of some kind on the forehead, and
they abounded in bracelets.
Arriving at Pamplemeuses, we were met by a Bengalee Coolie who lived
in a cottage near by, and who, after acting as cicerone, asked for
_bukshish_. Following this man, we were led into the garden, and a
few steps brought us to a small oval pond of sluggish water, passing
which, a short distance along its right bank, we were directly standing
near the tomb of Virginia,--that of Paul being directly opposite, on
the other side of the muddy pool. Both tombs were much dilapidated,
all that remained of them being two square masses of brick masonry
stuccoed with plaster, each of which had a delicate iron shaft passing
down through its centre from the top. The masonry formerly served
as a pedestal, the iron shafts acting as supports for the clay, or
coarse terracotta urns that stood upon them; and both monuments were
originally enclosed with light iron railings. No vestige, however,
either of the railings or the urns is now remaining; but over each
the pliant and graceful bamboo rustles mournfully in the wind, and a
species of vine-like mimosa trails closely at their base. The alley
of bamboos, the shaddock-groves, as well as the cocoanut-trees, and
the mango and orange-groves, if they ever embellished that particular
spot, have passed away. Many years ago a house of entertainment was
kept in the vicinity, and the place was much frequented by the French
residents of Port Louis.
It seems a pity to spoil so affecting a story as that of the lives
and loves of Paul and Virginia, but we were assured by an English
Protestant clergyman of Mauritius that nearly the whole narrative was
a myth. Not but that some such persons might have existed and been
shipwrecked on the coast; but this was merely the _incident_ which St.
Pierre worked up into a touchingly affecting tale; none, excepting
a few French, believing it to be a real life-narrative. Some of our
_compagnons du voyage_, who were in full belief of the story, were
greatly disturbed because we laughed at the idea; and yet we were quite
as intent as they in plucking flowers and sprigs of the bamboo and
mimosa, to preserve as mementos of our visit, while we thought with
renewed pleasure of the days when we first conned the pages of St.
Pierre’s interesting little book.
Pamplemeuses and its environs are exceedingly charming and attractive.
A fine old Cathedral, in the Gothic style, stands at a little distance
from the Tombs, with a cemetery near by, whose graves and monuments
were adorned with fresh floral offerings; and the abundant display of
beautiful Christmas bouquets and wreaths, placed by loving hands upon
the last resting-places of the dead, gave a very cheerful aspect to the
enclosure. Most of the bouquets were in vases of handsome design and
workmanship, and were fixtures to the monuments and tombs.
The Zoölogical, or Royal Gardens, in the same neighborhood, cover about
fifty acres of land, and are laid out on a grand scale,--both sides
of the avenue being bordered with the rarest and most valuable trees
in the world. At certain intervals there are stone seats, which serve
as resting-places for visitors; and we observed little gutters, on
either side of the spacious walls, through which water is conducted
for irrigation. Our time did not permit us to examine the ground as
thoroughly as we wished; but we took a hasty glance at the avenue of
superb palms, which is said to be scarcely equalled in extent and
beauty in the world, and saw, for the first time, the Jack-fruit-tree,
with its singular fruit, which hung at a distance of thirty feet from
the ground and had already attained a great size, but was not ripe.
There was, also, among the shrubbery, a fine _echite_, from which we
took a few of its strangely variegated leaves.
The last evening of our stay in Mauritius was devoted to visiting the
Christian Cemetery, which interested all of us, but had peculiar
attractions for our missionary party, from the fact that Mrs.
Harriet Newell, one of the earliest American missionary women, lies
buried there. Although separately enclosed, it is contiguous to the
burial-place of the Mussulmans of India, and also to those of the
Parsees and Chinese; occupying with them a low portion of ground lying
at the southeastern side of the harbor.
A spacious winding avenue along the sea-shore--which seemed to
be a favorite place for the Europeans to exhibit their dashing
turn-outs--conducted us to its gate, the avenue being bordered on
either side with tall filao-trees, which are very like the cypress.
The action of the wind from the sea has inclined these trees slightly
in the direction of the cemetery, to which they lead; and the fitful
sighing of the breeze, as it rustles sadly in the foliage, makes it a
strikingly mournful entrance-way to the resting place of the dead.
The grounds contained many tombs and monuments,--some of the latter
being ornate and expensive, although most of them were plainly and
substantially made of the coarse native granite, which admits of a fair
polish, and is readily procured from the mountains which overshadow the
place. Evergreens, shrubs, and flowers were abundant, and the Coolie
water-carriers were busily engaged in watering them for the evening,
as we wandered in various directions in search of Mrs. Newell’s grave.
We were without a guide, and consequently encountered some little
difficulty in finding it, but finally succeeded in our endeavors, after
a patient and persevering search among the monuments. The grave is
enclosed by a low tomb of native stone, and on its top rests a white
marble slab, having upon it, at the head, an urn in bas-relief, under
which is inscribed the following:--
Sacred
to the memory of
MRS. HARRIET ATWOOD,
Wife of Rev. Samuel Newell,
Missionary at Bombay.
Born at Haverhill, Mass., U. S. A., Oct. 10, 1793.
Died, after a distressing voyage from India to this place,
Nov. 30, 1812.
Early devoted to Christ, her heart turned towards the heathen.
For them she left her kindred, and her native land,
and welcomed dangers and sufferings.
Of excellent understanding, rich in accomplishments and virtues,
she was the delight of her friends, a crown to her husband,
and an ornament to the Missionary cause.
This humble monument to her memory
is erected by the
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions.
The tomb and marble slab were kept clean and in good condition, and we
were told that the spot was every year properly cared for by religious
Americans and Englishmen, who gladly availed themselves of the
opportunity of performing this work, simply as a labor of love.
The brief life of one so beloved and accomplished has doubtless been
regarded, by many of those who see and judge after the manner of men,
as having been uselessly sacrificed, if not absolutely thrown away.
To those, however, who know something of the workings of Protestant
Christian missions in heathen lands, and can speak from observation of
the great need of such women in the missionary field, the dedication
of Mrs. Newell to the work, her patient sufferings, and short career,
have yielded much fruit, and been of infinite service to the cause. Her
example has also actuated so many of her countrywomen to cheerfully
and gladly devote themselves to the same noble purpose, and has had
such an effect in inclining others to become earnest and diligent
workers at home, for the advancement of the Redeemer’s kingdom, that,
on standing at the side of her humble grave, one can feel with truth
that “though dead, she yet speaketh.” If there is a spot on earth where
this sentiment can be truly felt, it is at the grave of one so young,
and self-devoted, and accomplished, who shrank from no hardships, and
halted at no sacrifice, as long as the cause of Christ and the good
of souls was the end in view. With her, Christian duty was paramount
to every other consideration; and although her early death was an
irreparable loss to the cause in which her soul seemed to have expended
its best energies, still it was fitting that the “Lord of the harvest”
should call her thus early home, for it may well be said of her, in the
eloquent language of Tasso,--
“These birds of Paradise but long to flee
Back to their native mansions.”
Beside a gigantic stone-cross which we encountered while in quest
of Mrs. Newell’s grave, there were two or three similar ones in
other parts of the cemetery, all of which were well proportioned and
handsomely finished shafts, round in form, and made of the native
granite, about twenty feet in height, with cross-pieces six or seven
feet long. The effect of this symbol of our Christian faith, as it
was seen at different points above the graves and monuments, was
religiously sublime, and seemed to us to be not only a token of
Christ’s love for us, but also an earnest of the Christian’s final rest
in heaven.
A Mahommedan funeral, which we met in the avenue of filao-trees on our
return, was a wild, strange, and mournful scene. The coffin, which
was placed on a sort of bier, and carried on the shoulders of men, who
were walking at a brisk pace, was shaped like the roof of a house, with
a ridge-pole-like top. It was draped with calico of a pale ochreous
yellow, and wreaths of pink roses were hanging down on either side. A
turbaned priest walked at the head of the bier, but the motley throng
of men accompanying the remains, paid little heed either to order or
propriety. They looked far more like the ordinary street crowds in the
East than a funeral procession, and were talking with great volubility.
Occasionally the voice of the priest was heard above the din, gravely
chanting in a half monotonous tone; but the main feature of the scene,
and that which the most painfully impressed us, was the thoroughly
indifferent air of all composing the procession, their conversation
evidently being upon business and other worldly matters. This was
the first heathen funeral we had ever witnessed; but we can conceive
of no circumstance that could have led us to more sincere and hearty
self-gratulation that we had been born and educated in a land of Bible
religion and Christian influences.
FOOTNOTE:
[3] Madagascar was formerly thus called by the natives.
CHAPTER IV.
There is no lovelier spot in the world than Mauritius, nor can any
other land boast of mountain scenery more sublime or picturesque;
but it seemed to us while we remained there that the heat vied in
fierceness with that which we had experienced at Loando, although it
was by no means as balefully withering in its influence. We were told,
however, that the summer heat would not attain its full force until the
months of January and February; and this, together with the burning
atmosphere, and the alarming nearness of the hurricane season,--to say
nothing of the prevalence of the cholera at Port Louis,--inclined us to
bid a cheerful farewell to the island.
We had already passed the citadel and bell-buoy, and, having discharged
our pilot, were watching the fast receding shores, when we met the
English mail-steamer from Point de Galle, in the island of Ceylon. We
saluted each other, and then learned--what was given to us as reliable
news--that war had been declared between America and some other power,
but the name of the nation with which our Government had come in
collision, our officers, from some defect in the signal, could not
interpret. This created, at first, some painful doubts and misgivings;
but the belief finally gained ground that so long as the Southern
Rebellion remained unquelled the United States would not embroil
herself in a foreign war, unless it was forced upon her by the most
imperious necessity.
The weather continued quiet and the sea was still undisturbed,
although for three or four days after leaving Port Louis there were
times when dark, lurid, and portentous clouds hung heavily upon the
horizon and floated over us, and one evening there was also a dead
calm, when everything excepting the glass indicated a coming tempest;
but we steamed out of its neighborhood before it burst upon us, and
all breathed more freely when getting ten or twelve degrees north of
Mauritius, for we were then tolerably certain of a safe and quiet
voyage. Some months afterwards we learned that we had not miscalculated
in regard to the coming of the _cyclones_, or wind-storms, but that, in
a few days after we had sailed through that region, it was visited by
one of these terrible hurricanes.
We weighed anchor at the harbor of Port Louis on the afternoon of the
27th of December, and on the morning of the 30th, at eleven o’clock,
our wheels had completed one million of revolutions since leaving
New York. On the 2d of January we passed the Chagos Archipelago, the
largest island of which group (Diego Garcia) belongs to England. It
is fourteen miles long and eight in width, and is of coral formation,
having a fine harbor, in the form of a crescent, setting into the
island like the cavity of a shell. Good water is found by digging eight
feet. It is covered with cocoanut-trees, and the Mauritians inhabit it
mainly to engage in the cocoanut-oil manufacture.
Day after day, while in the Southern Indian Ocean, the mercury rose
nearly to 100° in our cabin, and the sea was as placid as a river;
but after passing the Chagos Islands, the heat, at one time, sensibly
decreased to about 85°, making a delightful change. Again we crossed
the equator, and steering for the northwest point of the island of
Sumatra, on the morning of the 9th we had sighted her verdant shores,
and were making for the Surat Pass. This narrow passage, which Hosburgh
says “is called by the natives Selat Anoos, is formed between the
east end of Stony Island and Acheen Head. It is about one hundred
and fifty yards wide, with twelve or fourteen fathoms of water. The
passage itself is not more than one hundred yards in width, and owing
to the strong eddies on each side of its entrance, it is not very safe
without a commanding breeze, excepting when the tide is just turning.”
The day on which we made the passage was one of those perfect ones when
the blue ether above us was of the same clear and deep color as that
through which the stars floated at night, and the brilliant sunlight
fell with soft and gentle sheen upon land and water. Entering from the
west, Acheen Head, a high, verdant slope, looms up to the right; but
after making the Straits of Malacca on its northeast side, it is a
steep and rough cliff-land. Pulo[4] Chin-chin rises to the left, and
her mountain-sides and fertile land skirting the shore were covered
with evergreens, and cocoanut-groves. Acheen Head, as we sailed through
the Pass, towered high above all; and its sides being superbly dressed
with rank grass, tropical trees, shrubs and vines, among which were
nestled the picturesque huts of the Malays, presented a most charming
appearance. At one point we sailed so near as to enable us to count
the overhanging trees, and were seized with an involuntary desire
to attempt reaching the vines that hung trailing over the water. We
had seen much of the beautiful, the wildly grand, and the sublime
in scenery during our voyage, but nothing comparable in attractive
loveliness to that which met our eyes as we entered the Surat Pass and
sailed into the Straits of Malacca. This was the crowning glory of
all,--“a thing of beauty, and a joy forever.”
The shoal water on the left, as we entered the Strait, was dotted with
the little fishing-boats of the natives, which are something like a
canoe in shape, and while fishing are made secure and stationary by
being fastened at stem and stern, in clusters of five or six. Hosburgh
remarks that “if the fishing canoes are not seen out at this place
before seven or eight o’clock in the morning, a fresh breeze may be
expected during the day.” Little sail-boats were also gliding in every
direction, constructed with a narrow framework about their gunwales,
which served as a balance to prevent them from being capsized if struck
by a sudden squall of wind.
On rounding Acheen Head we passed the mouth of a river bearing the same
name, two miles from whose outlet, in the interior, is the town of
Acheen, where there is a Mahommedan chief, and a daily market is held
between two and three o’clock in the afternoon, at which eggs, fowls,
and fruits can be procured, and if a day’s notice be given, ships can
also get bullocks and goats. A little beyond the mouth of the Acheen
River there is an anchorage for vessels; and three ships, two English
and one Turkish, were lying there as we passed. Pepper, which is the
chief article of produce, is obtained in large quantities in traffic
with the natives.
Coasting for two days along the shores of this beautiful island, we
occasionally had an excellent view of a native village, situated
in what seemed to be a fine grazing country or well-cultivated
fields. Doubtless the apparent cultivation was mostly wild, tropical
luxuriance; for nature in every phase was attractive and lovely as
seen from our stand-point; but where every man carries a savage
knife, called a creese, at his girdle, and is not to be trusted if
any temptation comes in his way, distance not only “lends enchantment
to the view,” but also produces a feeling of decided security, which,
under the circumstances, cannot for a moment admit of wishing for a
nearer acquaintance.
Great care and skill are necessary in navigating this strait, on
account of the dangerous shoals and numerous small rocky islands which
are met with in making the passage. Fortunately, however, we had
moonlight nights, and Captain Briggs, fully equal to every emergency,
never shirked any of his duties or responsibilities, but night after
night remained upon deck directing the soundings, which were made with
extreme caution as we proceeded through the channel. During one of
those nights we passed a very extensive and dangerous shoal, on which,
not long before, a steamer had struck and been wrecked. There was
formerly no light upon, or near it, but sometime before our passage a
vessel was moored near the shoal, which displays a light every night as
a beacon to mariners.
We caught our first glimpse of the continent of Asia on the morning of
the 11th of January, and during the day kept our eyes almost constantly
turned towards those extensive countries, between India and China,
where, an old writer tells us, “Ptolemy places his man-eaters, and
Mandevylle found men without heads, who saw and spoke through holes
in their breasts.” In the afternoon we were off the city of Malacca,
which presented, upon the depressed or flat coast, an extended line of
low buildings, with a high flag-staff near the water, from which we
were signalled. There was quite a show of shipping in the harbor, and
a lofty mountain range loomed in the distance; while beyond lay the
Central Flowery Kingdom to which our steps were hastening.
Those fortunate ones who never leave Fatherland with the prospect
of living abroad, can know little of the emotions with which one
approaches, and looks upon the strange country that is to be his
home for years, perhaps for life; then, the blood and thoughts flow
quickly, and however cool one’s nature, for the time quietude and
repose vanish.
We arrived at Singapore in the morning of January 12, 1862, after
having navigated for several hours through the intricacies of an
archipelago of small rocky islets. We heard the heaving of the lead
during most of the night; and this, together with the fact that the
steamer had been put at half speed, caused some of the more wakeful of
our passengers to be on the _qui vive_ until the morning appeared, and
we were safely at our moorings.
Singapore has a very fine and commodious harbor, which is in the form
of a crescent; and the town is built partly on, and partly at the foot
of a chain of hills, that rise with picturesque effect a little back
from the shore. The most conspicuous of these hills is surmounted by a
fort, and occupied by the Government buildings; and on the others are
the finely built bungalow residences of the foreigners. The business
quarter of the place is near the water, and a substantial stone wall
skirts the shore, at about the centre of which there is another strong
fortification, mounted with heavy guns, that, pointing towards, sweep
the bay with a decidedly _noli me tangere_ aspect. To the right of this
fort, and following the shore, there is a fine drive and promenade,
called the Bund, where foreigners, at early morning and evening, walk
and drive to enjoy the cool sea-breeze. At the time of our visit there
was a great deal of shipping in port, and an extraordinary multitude of
boats were moving in every direction. Here we met, for the first time,
with Eastern boat-life,--the Chinese boatmen being very numerous, and
living, according to the custom of their country, in their own boats.
We had scarcely reached our moorings in the harbor when the water
teemed with Oriental life, and we were surrounded with boats of nearly
every Eastern nation, filled with motley groups of all shapes, sizes,
and colors, who made the air resonant with the clatter of their various
tongues. These people were all engaged either in selling fruit or small
wares, and were earnestly ejaculating and begging of us to buy,--some
even presenting themselves on board with recommendations for the
purpose of “doing” our laundry. The East Indians are a most interesting
people; and Ramasamy,[5] our Dubash,--_i. e._ interpreter,--a man who
furnished supplies for our ship,--was a fine specimen of the race, with
a quiet, unperturbed, and dignified mien, which is characteristic of
the people.
Coming from the fierce summer heat of Mauritius, and the Southern
Indian Ocean, some of our company were much debilitated, and to such
the more moderate temperature of Singapore was gently, but delightfully
bracing. We hoped, on getting into port, to find letters and news
from home; but having travelled at so rapid a rate as to outstrip the
overland mail, we found that no news had been received from the United
States, excepting a vague rumor, by telegraph, of a threatened war with
England, on account of the Mason-Slidell difficulty,--which report
both the American and English residents at Singapore feared would be
confirmed on the arrival of the mail-steamer, then hourly expected.
This explained the purport of the news designed to be communicated
to us by the steamer which we passed on leaving Mauritius, and which
caused us at the time some little anxiety, not only on behalf of our
country, but also on our own account. Had the report proved true, we
should have been obliged to surrender our vessel into the hands of
the English, on our arrival at Singapore; any attempt to escape to
sea from under the guns of the fortifications being an act of folly,
if not downright madness. But having faced unscathed the yellow-fever
at St. Paul de Loando, the small-pox at Cape Town, and the cholera at
the Mauritius, besides passing safely through the hurricane latitudes
without even meeting with a severe squall, we were inclined to hope
that the ominous cloud just rising in the western horizon would also
disperse, and that no such thing as a serious collision would occur
between the two countries. Trusting, therefore, that Providence would
permit us to finish the remainder of our voyage unmolested, we decided
to enjoy our stay at Singapore, and look after the “lions” as usual.
Our captain determining, if possible, to sail for Hong Kong before
the arrival of the English mail-steamer, made greater despatch in
coaling than it had been customary for him to do at any other port on
our route, and our time, therefore, did not admit of a very thorough
“doing,” either of the place or its environs. Rising, however, betimes
on the following morning, we were sipping a cup of tea and eating a
biscuit while on our way to town in one of Ramasamy’s covered boats.
Near the landing, according to arrangement, the Dubash had a Malay
garee--a small coach, or cab-like vehicle, drawn by a little Malay
pony--awaiting us. The carriage was built and finished with an eye to
tropical comfort,--the cushions of the seats being covered with a fine
and cool fabric made of the Manilla grass; and between the body of the
carriage and the top there was an open space, of one or two inches,
left for ventilation. Our Malay _syce_, or driver, was neatly dressed,
after the fashion of his caste, with a turban and upper garments of
pure white; and pending from both the upper and lower lobes of his ears
were gold rings, set either with emerald or an excellent imitation
of that precious stone. Sometimes he rode, but more frequently ran
beside his horse, urging the animal on, and looking the picturesque to
perfection.
We first took the public drive upon the Bund, which is a beautiful,
broad, and well-made macadamized road, having an enclosed public ground
on the left, where the sight of a rich growth of grass gladdened our
eyes and reminded us of home, it being the most verdant turf we had
seen since leaving the United States. The hill-sides of Singapore are
green and beautiful with grass, which is doubtless owing to the rains
that, we were told, visited the place nearly every day. The town is
built over a large surface, and the cultivation of trees, shrubs, and
flowers, in the large grounds surrounding the bungalow residences,
receives so much attention that the place seems as much like the
country as the city, with all the advantages of both.
On the Bund, a little beyond the public grounds, there are three
spacious bungalows standing near each other, which are used as a hotel,
and kept in the European style for the convenience of foreigners. We
passed, during our drive on the Bund, European ladies and gentlemen on
foot, and on horseback, nearly all of whom were looking thin and pale,
showing how difficult it was for Western exotics to thrive in the East.
We drove through the Malay and Chinese quarters of the town, where the
bay has so much of a curve that the Chinese boatmen safely moor their
little floating cabins for the night, and at that early hour found them
occupied in eating or preparing their morning meal. We also visited
the market, and saw the Chinese gardeners, just in from the country,
briskly trotting along with their panniers so heavily laden with fruits
and vegetables that their shoulder-pieces of flexible bamboo vibrated
at every step. There was also the native cart, drawn by buffalo-oxen,
which reminded us of Sunday-school days, when, in the Rev. Dr. Barnes’s
“Notes on the Gospels,” we first saw a picture of the same sort of
vehicle. The harness and whole establishment looked the same as that
said to be used in the Holy Land in the days of our Saviour. There were
the same contrivances, the same kind of cart, and the same manner of
arranging the yoke and the oxen, which, taken together with the driver,
made the old picture _in loco_, and assured us, far stronger than our
feelings could do, that we were far away from home. In the vicinity of
the market we passed a cluster of Malay huts, which were built in the
bungalow-style, over a salt marsh, and supported by stilts, or piles,
with thatched roofs of plantain-leaves.
In the course of our drive we took the circuit of the hill on which
are situated the bungalow houses of the foreigners, and around which
winds a fine macadamized road. They were bordered with shrubs, flowers,
and tropical trees,--the cocoanut-palm, the nutmeg-tree, bearing its
beautiful pendant fruit, the bread-fruit-tree, the graceful bamboo, and
many others. In the grass, also, by the road-side, we observed mimosas
of exquisite tints. We took in our way the Christian Cemetery, the
Episcopal Cathedral, and Police Station-house, with its wicked-looking
and treacherous-eyed Sepoy sentinels, in full British uniforms, and had
a profound Oriental salaam from an overseer of a gang of hard-looking
convicts, comprising Malays, Chinese, and Indians, who were at work on
the road.
The town is supplied with spring water, which is brought from the
hills; and the neatly constructed circular stone fountains, in well
shaded and picturesque situations, are much frequented. They are seen
to much the best advantage in the early morning, when the bronzed,
and grotesquely-dressed groups of people around them give one a good
idea of Oriental fountains. But the picture presented by the native
washermen and women, on the banks of the Singapore River, was, if
possible, still more unique and remarkable. The little stream was
fairly alive with them; and our Western ideas of care, economy, and
thrift were outraged, as we saw them thrash the stones with the
garments they were cleansing, so that we were ready to exclaim,--What
fabrics can live through such mauling!
Having “done” the town as thoroughly as our limited time would permit,
we drove to the bank of the Singapore River, not far from the Bund,
where our boat had been ordered to wait for us; and, on passing from
our carriage to the wharf, met two grand-looking Parsees, one of whom
was a priest, who wore his peculiarly striking costume with a bearing
more suggestive of _hauteur_ than it is possible for words to describe.
Once more seated in our boat we sailed along the business wharves, on
which were large warehouses, or _go-downs_, as they are called in the
East; and, passing through the mouth of the river into the bay, were
soon again on board ship, much delighted with our excursion, besides
having appetites sharp-set for breakfast.
Most of our missionary party left us at this port; three of whom[6]
were to proceed to Calcutta, _en route_ to Northern India, and two to
Bankok, where they were to be stationed. We parted from them with the
kindest wishes for their future usefulness, and months afterwards were
happy to hear of their being safely settled in their respective fields
of labor.
Some of the most delicious fruits in the world are grown at Singapore.
At the Cape we procured very nice oranges, apricots, and pears, but
were too early in the season for their excellent grapes. At Mauritius
the luscious mango and appetizing lichi were in their prime; but here
two or three different kinds of oranges were ripe, among which was the
delicate mandarin; and the pine-apples, freshly cut from the plants,
were abundant and in full-grown perfection. Here, also, we first met
with the dainty mangosteen, which is superior to all the fruits of the
East; being of such delicacy and exquisite flavor that it is said some
one, on first partaking of it, declared it must be the nectar of the
gods. The mango of Mauritius is a large and beautiful fruit, having a
color on one side like the blush of a peach, and, with those obtained
at Manilla, are said to be as fine as any in the East.
On the afternoon of January 14th, just as we were getting up steam to
leave for Hong Kong, the guns of the English mail-steamer were heard,
and she was soon sailing into the harbor. We acknowledge to having
been a little anxious on her arrival, but it was soon ascertained
that she brought no confirmation of the rumors which had reached us.
She announced, however, the news of the death of Prince Albert, at
the receipt of which not only the English, but the foreign residents
generally, seemed much saddened, as well they might be, in sympathy
for the widowed queen; regretting that he who truly magnified his
high position, and was a blessing to his kind, had so suddenly passed
away. Our colors were among the first seen floating at half-mast for
the illustrious dead; and with this sign of our respectful regard and
sympathy, at five o’clock in the afternoon, we sailed out of the bay,
and into the Straits of Singapore, feeling truly thankful that actual
war had not thrown us into the hands of our affectionate English
cousins. Ramasamy was the last to leave our ship. As we moved off he
took his stand in the centre of his boat, and while making his graceful
salaams, his tall and dignified figure, neatly arrayed in white and set
off with a red sash and turban, made up, together with his Eastern boat
and boat’s crew, a fine picture.
The northeast monsoon, a wind that blows down the China Sea from
October to April, had been unusually severe during the winter, and
while lying in the harbor of Singapore we were much of the time in
motion, on account of the swell produced by the tempestuous state
of the sea at the North. It was also reported that the previous
mail-steamer from Singapore to Hong Kong had been lost; and altogether
we had the prospect of a rough passage before us, and a severe handling
from old Boreas for all the quiet seas and sunny skies which had
thus far accompanied us. To say that we dreaded the passage to Hong
Kong would convey but little idea of the fears experienced by timid
travellers when compelled to meet such emergencies. There is great
enjoyment to such delicately constituted people in a quiet sea, and
a fair breeze; but let the reverse happen and the change is fearful,
nay, we might say well-nigh appalling, but for the thought that our
heavenly Father can protect us as well in the hour of peril as in times
of safety. There is no place where the awful grandeur of God’s power
is so strikingly manifested as at sea, and no perils like those of the
great deep can so humble the heart, or make one feel more thoroughly
bereft of all available earthly aid. The same eye, however, that had
watched over us in our days of calm and sunshine, slumbered not when
the tempest overtook us, but, following us to the end, we finally were
landed in safety at the desired haven.
In a few hours we had threaded the Straits of Singapore, and were on
the China Sea facing the monsoon. For two days it was not as rough
as we had expected it would be; but after that, the wind increased
to such a degree of violence that it became necessary to take down
our top-masts. Still our vessel rode the waves like a duck, and
notwithstanding both wind and current were against us, she labored so
little in the sea that our feeling of security became proportionably
stronger, and we felt both hopeful and confident.
When in about the ninth degree of north latitude, we passed the
Condore Islands. One of the largest of this group belongs to the
French, who have a small colony on the island; and on the western side
there is a very good bay, where a man-of-war was lying at anchor for
the protection of the little settlement. The French Government have
selected the island for a coal depot, although the English formerly
held possession of it, and some forty years ago had a garrison
stationed there. This, however, was finally destroyed by the Malays,
who fell upon it and put the soldiers to the sword.
On the night of the 17th of January the stiff breeze which had been
blowing ever since we left Singapore culminated into a fearful gale,
and the next day (Saturday) was one full of anxiety to all on board. It
was not deemed advisable to apply more steam-power to the machinery,
and the force against us was so tremendous that for twenty-four
hours,--during which time the gale seemed to do its worst,--the same
amount of steam which had usually propelled us at the rate of two
hundred miles per day, advanced us only at the rate of ninety-three
miles. The sky assumed the dull, metallic blue shade which usually
characterizes it at sea during a fierce gale of wind, and our vessel
was in some danger from the short and heavy waves that lashed her sides
most furiously.
Being unwilling to remain below we sought a dry place on the
quarter-deck, where, facing the stern, we quietly watched the storm.
There was little conversation; but once during the day, our friend,
Mr. S----, coming from the bow of the ship,--the scene at which point
was too much for our weak courage to face,--sat down near us, and for
some time cruelly whistled the air of “Home, sweet home!” while he
kept time with his fingers upon the woodwork of one of the skylights
on the quarter-deck. I could not trust myself to say a word by way
of remonstrance, knowing that his thoughts were busy with the wife
and little ones he had left in his own happy home; but was glad when
he ceased, and hope never again to hear that sweet melody under the
pressure of such painful apprehensions.
Thanks to a kind Providence, the wind fell at about midnight of
Saturday; and on Sunday morning--having still one of our missionary
clergymen on board--we assembled as usual for religious services, and
gratefully rendered thanks for our merciful preservation.
A few hours after the worst of the gale had abated we made Cape
Padaran; passing which we found more quiet waters, and were soon near
that shore where
“Cochin China’s cultivated land ascends.”
During the remainder of the day we were sailing within three quarters
of a mile of the bold, rocky coast, which is lined with high mountains,
sometimes running in two parallel coast ranges, then three, and at
one time I counted four distinct tiers rising one back of the other.
In form and slope they reminded me of the Green Mountains of Vermont,
and were entirely different from any we had seen during the voyage.
The verdure of their sides was of a deep green; and the shade cast by
the clouds that rested upon them, giving their surfaces a still darker
hue, made their appearance a remarkable combination of the grand, the
gloomy, and the picturesque. We were now passing localities that were
formerly infested with Malay pirates; and were told that even now any
vessel which is so unfortunate as to be lost on the coast is soon
surrounded by the same piratical, grasping, and treacherous race.
The bracing and deliciously cool atmosphere of the northeast monsoon
had a grateful effect upon all on board our vessel, and was delightful
after the many weeks of depressing heat that we had endured. After
leaving the coast of Cochin China the weather became more favorable,
and we moved onward with more rapidity, until, on the morning of the
23d of January, after threading our way among the small islands in the
neighborhood of Hong Kong, we sighted Victoria Peak, and, firing our
guns as we sailed around its base, entered the harbor.
Before the _Poyang_ had reached her anchorage we were boarded by two
gentlemen belonging to the house of Olyphant & Co., who, surprised and
delighted with our safe and speedy passage, welcomed Captain Briggs
with great warmth, while they complimented him on having made the
quickest voyage on record. At 12 o’clock we were moored before the city
of Victoria, after having been at sea only eighty-six days, seventeen
of which were passed in the ports where we touched for coals.
FOOTNOTES:
[4] _Pulo_ is the Malay for island.
[5] Almost all Hindus bear the name of some one of their gods. _Samy_
means god, or lord.
[6] Among these was the Rev. Levi Janvier, D. D., of the Presbyterian
mission of Lodiana,--a place in the Punjaub province,--the recent news
of whose sudden and lamented death has saddened the heart of every one
who had the pleasure of knowing him.
CHAPTER V.
The harbor of Hong Kong--which is said to be one of the finest in the
world--is elliptical in form, and completely landlocked by mountains
and bold rocks, which give it an exceedingly picturesque appearance;
while the large amount of shipping, and great number of boats, that
always throng its waters, present a scene full of life and bustling
activity. My destination was Whampoa, but arriving at Hong Kong in
advance of our time, the friend who was to meet me there had not yet
reached the colony. I was, however, warmly welcomed by my friend and
countryman, Mr. S----, the United States Naval Agent at Hong Kong,--at
whose house I was most hospitably entertained, and kindly cared for.
When in a foreign land, the love of country, like one’s religion,
becomes a sacred emotion; and as I had learned, while on my voyage,
to regard our national flag with increased affection, I was pleased
to find it floating at the stern of Mr. S----’s gig, and to be taken
to the landing under its protecting folds. The Chinese boatmen at the
oars, who were arrayed in the blue and white uniform of our navy
sailors, also caused my thoughts to turn anxiously homeward, where
thousands of our noble soldiers and sailors were sacrificing their
lives in order to sustain the free institutions of our fathers.
All Hong Kong was agog with the excitement caused by the rumors of a
war between the United States and England; and many of the colonists
believed that a serious collision was inevitable. Among our own
countrymen there was a variety of opinions, and an anxious looking for
the result, which was expected by the next mail.
Mr. S----, who magnified his office, and whose patriotism had the ring
of the true metal, had in his “compound”[7] a high flag-staff, at the
head of which, in fine weather, the “Star-spangled Banner” was always
flying. One day, when speaking of the possibility of a confirmation of
the war news, he remarked that he should not, under any circumstances,
lower his colors, nor order any of his people to take them down. He
added, however, that the moment the Colonial Government were certain
of their right to do so, they would undoubtedly remove them, and take
possession of his establishment; but that they would find very little
property to seize, as he had already taken the precaution to dispose
of, and send home, his most valuable stores.
The summary manner in which our war-steamer, the _Saginaw_, was ordered
out of the harbor of Hong Kong, created some indignant feeling among
the loyal American residents; as it was a well-known fact at the time,
that, in her disabled condition, had a storm occurred during her short
voyage to the Macao Roads, her safety must have been endangered. I was
at Whampoa the May following, when Captain Watkins, who was sent from
California to take charge of the _Saginaw_, brought her into that port
for repairs, and heard that officer allude, with some spirit, to the
unhandsome and ungenerous management of that affair; while, at the
same time, he expressed the hope that our naval depot would finally be
removed from Hong Kong to one of the ports farther up the coast.
The winter having been unusually cool and bracing, all the human
exotics from the West were rejoicing under its recuperating influences,
the invigorating effects of which would supply them with renewed
strength for the long tropical summer that was to follow. There had not
been such cold weather for many years; and the sudden transition from
the fierce heat of the torrid zone to a climate of such comparatively
low temperature, not only made the warmest of garments acceptable, but
inclined one to seek the friendly warmth of cheerful coal fires.
The island of Hong Kong is separated from the mainland by a strait from
one and a half to five miles in width. The peninsula of Kowlung forms
the opposite shore; and on its extreme point, which directly commands
the entrance to the English town, there formerly stood two Chinese
forts. The bay affords ample room to float a large fleet, and has both
deep water and a good anchorage for vessels. Mariners have always been
attracted to the island on account of the facilities for procuring
a ready supply of the purest water, which is seen falling from the
tops of the _Leong-teong_, or “two summits,” in a series of cascades,
the last of which glides with a graceful fall into a rocky basin on
the beach. It is from this fountain, called the _Hiang-kiang_,--the
“fragrant stream,”--or the _Hoang-kiang_,--the “red, or bright
torrent,”--that the island is supposed to have derived its name. It was
ceded to England in 1849. Its trap-rock mountains are conical, very
precipitous, and sterile, but the valleys are sheltered and fertile.
There is a large exportation of granite from the island. In its
geological structure the trap-rock has the highest position, and the
granite is found in immense blocks all over the island.
That part of the bay of Hong Kong which skirts the city of Victoria is
faced with a substantial sea-wall of stone. The city is built at the
foot of the mountains, which, in some places, have been graded to make
room for the buildings on the principal street, which winds along the
shore of the bay, and is called the “Queen’s Road.” Streets leading
from this avenue wind around the declivities of the mountains, upon
whose terraced sides are perched the houses of foreigners. From the
highest terraces, where some of the finest residences are situated,
there is an extensive view of the harbor, which, with its series of
bays, white with shipping, stretches far away in the distance.
The most desirable locations in the city have distinctive names; and
beside the Government House, there is the Carlton Terrace, Spring
Gardens, the Hermitage, the Albany, etc. Our friends resided at Spring
Gardens, and occupied a large, rambling, stone house, whose apartments
and spacious verandas were well arranged for tropical comfort. This
place is situated upon the shore of the bay, and the houses, with their
pleasant grounds, front the water,--the rear walls of their “compounds”
opening upon the Queen’s Road by large gateways. The rooms upon the
ground-floor of all foreign residences are called “go-downs,” and are
only used for store-rooms, and for the accommodation of the servants
of the household.
The climate of China is so enervating to people from the Western
hemisphere that they rarely take long walks, and in all cases where
much locomotion is required they employ Coolies to carry them in sedan
chairs. Every family has at least one or two of these chairs, and
a couple of chair Coolies; and there are also establishments where
strangers can at any time procure, at a very moderate rate, both
the chairs and bearers. Some of the private chairs are covered with
black or deep-blue broadcloth, and have a lining of silk, with outer
trimmings of heavy fringe. These, when ornamented with bright buttons,
are very handsome. Among the latter we observed the chair of Lady
Robinson,--the wife of the Governor of the colony,--and also that of
Mrs. Smith,--the wife of the English Bishop. Mr. S---- being in the
United States service, and his father-in-law having been one of our
most respected and loyal commodores, I was glad to find his wife’s
chairs very appropriately covered with blue navy cloth, and ornamented
with our naval button. Sedan chairs are carried by means of poles made
of bamboo or wood, which the Coolies bear upon their shoulders, and are
so arranged that, when lifted from the ground, the elevation of the
lower part of the chair is at least three feet, and sometimes more. Any
accident, therefore, involving its fall,--particularly in passing over
steep and uneven surfaces,--may occasion very serious consequences.
The day after my kind reception by Mr. and Mrs. S----, I attended, in
company with the latter, an examination of a school of Chinese girls.
In order to reach the Albany, where this school was located, we were
obliged to clamber some distance up the mountain; and extra bearers and
chairs being procured, we sallied forth from the great gateway leading
into the Queen’s Road, and were directly passing the houses and shops
of the European and Chinese residents,--our bearers threading their way
through crowds of people. Here and there we met an English officer, and
occasionally one of the city police; while, in passing the barracks, we
again encountered the Seapoy soldiery,--the fearfully wicked expression
of whose eyes, as they impressed us when first seen at Singapore, can
never be mistaken or forgotten. Near the Royal Theatre we turned into
a street that led up the slope of the mountain, and for a time our
stalwart bearers trotted briskly on with ease and steadiness. When,
however, about half-way up the ascent, the man walking in front of
my chair began to pant and waver in his movements, until finally he
labored for breath like one very ill. My pace being lessened, I was
already greatly in the rear of my friend; and, becoming alarmed at
the idea of a possible fall and tumble down the side of the mountain,
begged earnestly, both in words and pantomime, to have my chair set
down. Having at length made myself understood, the chair was put down
in the middle of the road; and the Coolie, who had excited my pity and
sympathy, although still panting, was quietly standing, and looking
on with that grave and apparently unconscious air which a Chinaman
knows so well how to affect, when he is intent upon gaining some undue
advantage over you. My friend, however, on approaching, read him at
a glance. He was only performing an old _ruse_ upon a newly arrived
outside barbarian,--for it seems that the man expected to work upon
my feelings until I should, out of pity, pay and dismiss him. Poor
man! he had melted me into the pathetic, but the sudden change to the
ludicrous was irresistible, when my friend, understanding the case,
exclaimed, in Canton English,[8] “How fashion that!--what for you
no carry that chair?” Not a word was uttered by the Coolie, who,
apparently oblivious of what was passing, seemed neither to hear,
nor to be conscious that anything was wrong. After a short pause,
my friend, accompanying her words with spirited little gestures,
continued:--“Fightee la,[9]--I tellee Massee of you, and he no givee
you one cash![10] Takee up that chair, chop-chop! no can carry alla
proper,--no can catchee that cash! I say you no carry--Massee no givee
one single cash!” My bearers, who readily understood what was meant
by “Massee no givee one single cash,” unless they performed their
contract, thereupon took up the chair, and carried it with apparent
ease to the end.
On reaching the school we found Bishop Smith, with his wife and many
others, already there; but the Governor’s wife not having made her
appearance, there was a little delay. This school, which is under the
patronage of the Bishop, numbered sixteen girls, from four to fourteen
years of age, and was in charge of Miss Wilson, an Englishwoman.
Her Ladyship having at length arrived, after some religious exercises
were had, the children were examined by their teacher. The Bishop,
with the aid of a Chinese student, then interrogated them for some
time, and after making a few remarks to the audience dismissed them.
The girls of this school, besides receiving a useful education, are
taught and thoroughly trained in the precepts of the Bible. Two of
them, who were twelve or fourteen years of age, and were from the
better class of Chinese families, had quite a prepossessing appearance
as they toddled about on their little feet. They were also candidates
for confirmation, and were at this time examined preparatory to
receiving that rite. The Chinaman who assisted in the examination was a
teacher from an institution which Bishop Smith had established at Hong
Kong for the benefit of Chinese youths. There were also at Hong Kong
other missionaries and schools, supported by different denominations,
but my stay in the colony was too brief to enable me to become
acquainted with them.
The English mail-steamer, which we left at Singapore, did not reach
Hong Kong until thirty hours after the _Poyang_ had anchored in the
bay; and although we brought the news of Prince Albert’s death, the
official announcement to the Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, was
not received until the arrival of the mail. The sad intelligence had
been so long on the way that there was only a week, or ten days, of
the prescribed Court mourning left; but for that space of time the
Government dignitaries wore the sable as directed, and the invitations
which had a few days previous been issued by Lady Robinson for a grand
reception on the twenty-ninth of the month, were countermanded. This
was done by sending a servant to those invited, with a note containing
the following announcement:--
“In consequence of the melancholy intelligence of the death of His
Royal Highness, the Prince Consort, Lady Robinson’s ‘at home,’ fixed
for the 29th instant, will not take place.
“Henry Aikenson, a. D. c.
Govt. House, January 25.”
Under this a list was given of the names of those invited; and to be
certain that the paper had been presented to all, each one signed his
name directly opposite where it was already written.
On sending a message or a package by a Chinese servant, it is always
necessary to send a note, which in the _patois_ is called a “chit.”
Writing notes is in fact an “institution” among the foreign residents;
and rarely a day passes that one has not more or less of them to
despatch. To be sure that they reach their destination, the servant
also carries a “chit-book,” in which is written the name of the
person to whom the note is sent, together with the day of the month;
and on the return of the messenger, if the person addressed is found
to have signed his name, it is proof positive that the trust has been
faithfully fulfilled.
Having been joined by Mr. W----, who arrived from Whampoa on Saturday,
on Sunday we attended service at the Bishop’s Cathedral, where we
witnessed the solemn ordinance of confirmation administered to a large
number of English sailorboys, from a naval receiving-ship lying in the
harbor. There were also one or two English officers who were confirmed,
besides several sailors, and the two Chinese girls whom we saw at Miss
Wilson’s school. The boys had been trained and catechized, preparatory
to receiving the rite, by their chaplain, who was present.
Amid these solemn ceremonies it was gratifying to reflect that a
thorough knowledge of God’s commandments, the Catechism, and the Creed,
together with the continued faithfulness of their chaplain, might not
only tend to the moral elevation of the boys, but, under the Divine
blessing, be the means of making many of them thoroughly religious men.
The English have always much to say of our “nasal twang” and “Puritan
snuffle;” but few Yankees, however, can successfully emulate the
Bishop of Victoria in that doubtful accomplishment. I have occasionally
heard clergymen at home in whom this defect was fearfully conspicuous,
but never remember meeting it in a more intensified form.
The camelia japonica, which is indigenous to China, was in bloom when
we were at Hong Kong. Being generally cultivated in the gardens, it is
much used for bouquets, and the rarest, as well as the most beautiful,
are obtained in as great profusion as roses are with us. One day,
while paying a visit to a friend, a lovely little girl came in from
the garden and presented me with a bouquet of the most superb buds and
blossoms of the camelia that I ever saw. Next to the beauty of the
gift, what surprised me the most was its lavish degree of elegance; for
having always regarded the possession of one camelia as a luxury, I
could not divest myself of the idea that the possession of so many was
an extravagant indulgence.
Before Hong Kong was colonized, the various members of foreign
commercial houses in the south of China resided at Canton, although,
for the benefit of the sea-air, they frequently passed the summer with
their families at Macao. But after the English had established a more
home-like place of residence at Victoria, they made their principal
head-quarters there, and left the junior partners to transact the
business at Canton. Hong Kong has therefore become the centre of
attraction to all foreigners, as well as the arbiter of style and
fashion in China. Like all English colonial communities, precedence
in rank and position is closely adhered to, and rules throughout all
cultivated society. As we remained in the place only ten days, I could
of course know but little comparatively in reference to these matters;
although from our friends, who had the _entrée_ to the circle of Lady
Robinson, I gained a favorable impression in regard to her ladyship
and the society of which she is the centre. Much attention is paid to
forms of etiquette among all the foreign communities in China; and the
little--but, nevertheless, always agreeable--amenities of life are
seldom forgotten. Notwithstanding the great difference in modes of
living,--which are totally unlike those of the Western hemisphere,--the
structure of society and its conventional rules are thoroughly English.
Men of wealth and position live in a very luxurious style,--the East
India Company having given a permanent tone to society in general,
the effects of which are still manifest in the prevailing habits and
customs of the people.
Many of the residents of Hong Kong keep European horses, but the
climate is so unfriendly to them they survive but five or six
years after being brought into the colony. I observed some handsome
turn-outs, among which the basket, or “Croyden carriage” appeared to be
the vehicle most in use.
The roads are finely macadamized, and in the cool of the day there
is a great deal of horseback riding. As in all English communities,
the races constitute one of the principal amusements of the people;
and in order to have a suitable place for this purpose, the surface
of a spacious and level vale, called the “Happy Valley,”--which is
near the eastern limits of the town, and lies between two beautifully
swelling mountains that open upon Sanpan Bay,[11]--has been reclaimed
from a state of saltmarsh, and now forms an extensive race-course. At
a convenient point well-adapted buildings are arranged, and fitted
up with all the necessary appliances for the accommodation of judges
and spectators. During the races this place is thronged with gay and
busy crowds of fashionable people; but to one newly arrived from
the occident there is a strangely odd mixture of the grave and gay,
in the surroundings and present use of the valley. The Protestant,
Roman Catholic, and Parsee cemeteries are situated at the distance
of only about three rods directly in the rear of the covered seats
for the spectators, and the stands for the judges. These populous
“cities of the dead” are in separate enclosures, although contiguous
to each other, and are shaded thickly with evergreens and flowering
shrubs. In the Protestant ground we observed single camelias in bloom
on shrubs eight or ten feet in height. We also noticed, within the
Parsee enclosure, several fresh graves already dug, and learned that
it was the custom to have such places ready when called for, as it
was often necessary in so warm a climate to bury the dead as soon as
possible. This close proximity of a race-course to such an array of
burial-places impressed us disagreeably; and we could not but think
that so incongruous a blending of the gravely solemn with the gay and
boisterously jolly, if met by an Englishman anywhere else than among
his own countrymen, would call forth severe animadversion not only
upon the community, but upon the nation to whom the people belonged.
The graves of the Chinese are also scattered nearly to the top of
the mountain slope on the opposite side of the valley; but their
resting-places are found on all the hill-sides, as well as on most of
the unoccupied ground in China.
On nearing the port of Hong Kong almost the first object that meets
the eye are the Chinese graves, and the attention is arrested by the
peculiar style of some of their tombs, which are in shape like the
Omega (Ω) of the Greek alphabet. The graves on the slope of Victoria
Mountain, near the water, are very conspicuous.
Ancestral worship (of which I shall say more hereafter) is a part of
the religion of the Chinese which prompts even the poorest people to
care for and keep in good condition the graves of their household. Only
the better or more wealthy classes, however, put up tombstones to mark
the spot; and none but the mandarins, or those well to do in the world,
build the elaborate tombs of the Greek-letter form.
On our arrival at Hong Kong the Chinese population were in the midst
of their New Year festivities, during which all classes cease their
occupations, and for some days indulge in mirth and enjoyment. One
day during this festival we witnessed a very extraordinary game of
shuttlecock played before some Chinese houses on the Queen’s Road, by
young men, who, with marvellous skill, used their feet for battledores.
Dr. Williams, in his “Middle Kingdom,” says that “the evidences of
the approach of this chief festival appear some weeks previous; when
a general cleaning of houses, boats, and garments takes place, and
all accounts are settled and debts paid. On its arrival, the whole
population throw off the old year with a shout, and clothe themselves
in the new with their change of garments.” At this festive season,
also, the boat-people decorate their little floating houses with
bright-colored papers, on many of which are printed prayers addressed
to their deities. These papers, which were arranged so as to flutter in
the wind, together with the bright-colored lanterns and paper-flowers,
which are also frequently used in the decorations, give the boats a
very gay appearance. It was said that a thousand of these ornamented
boats were lying at Sanpan Bay when we visited it. They were closely
moored in tiers, side by side, reaching far out into the waters, while
papers of brilliant hues were floating from their oars, helms, and also
from the tops of their little mat-covered cabins.
FOOTNOTES:
[7] A general term for the enclosed grounds about the houses of
foreigners.
[8] Foreigners, not speaking the Chinese language, in their intercourse
with the natives make use of a _patois_, called Canton, or pigeon
(business) English.
[9] “Fightee,” and “chop-chop,” both mean quick, directly, immediately.
[10] A single _cash_, which is equal to one farthing, is the smallest
fractional part of the Chinese currency.
[11] So called because it is the principal mooring place, and is, in
fact, a floating village of little boats, called “sanpans,” in which
the Chinese fishermen and boat-people live. It is one of the numerous
bights with which the coast of Hong Kong is indented.
CHAPTER VI.
A small English steamer, called the _Feema_, or _Flying Horse_, was
plying between Hong Kong and Macao, and wishing to visit some friends
living at the latter place, instead of directly going to our own home
at Whampoa, we took passage on the 2d of February and proceeded thither.
Besides our party of three, there were only five or six foreigners on
board, most of whom were English. Among them we observed an English
lady, who, notwithstanding the severity of the weather, was travelling
with her feet encased in delicate slippers. We probably should not
have remarked this fact had we not read some severe criticisms, from
the pens of English travellers in the United States, in regard to our
own countrywomen imprudently risking their health in the same manner.
We do not, however, remember of having met, in our travels at home, a
gentlewoman whose feet were so slightly protected for the season. We
mention this incident to show that, after all, there is not a very wide
difference in the careful or careless habits of our Anglo-Saxon cousins
when compared with our own. In our vain boasting, and some other
peculiarities, we are greatly alike, which only the more clearly proves
our legitimacy to the same stock.
The distance to Macao was only forty miles, yet when off Lintin
Bay--which is a part of the delta at the mouth of what is called the
Canton River--there was so heavy a sea running that our little cabin
reeled, and old Neptune again shook his trident at us. An hour or two,
however, brought us to the Macao Roads, and passing in view of the
Donna Maria, and Guia forts, which occupy the tops of two rocky hills,
we steamed into the inner harbor.
Before we could anchor, our vessel was surrounded by little
passenger-boats, managed for the most part by women, who vociferated
at the top of their voices; each one, in order to secure passengers,
being solely intent upon getting the prow of her boat nearest to the
companion-ladder. At the time of the confusion at Babel the Chinese
race must have had a large representation there; for the clatter of
tongues that greeted us at some of the ports, on our voyage from New
York, was as the murmur of a peaceful rill when compared to the great
cataract of shrill voices that here well-nigh deafened us. It was
impossible to hear the deeper tones of the men in the general uproar;
while it was absolutely frightful to see those of the passengers
who had no ladies to care for, leaping, nearly mad with the wild
tumult, into the first tanka-boat[12] they could reach. Under these
circumstances, passing without accident through the peril of getting
into one of these rocking little boats,--which was skilfully guided and
propelled by three stout tanka-women,--and being safely landed at the
Custom-house jetty, was a matter of sincere felicitation.
The warm welcome one receives on reaching old friends in a foreign land
goes far towards compensating for the _désagrémens_ of travel; and
notwithstanding our new surroundings may be strangely unfamiliar, the
presence of beloved faces from the old home-circle creates a gratefully
satisfied feeling of content.
The peninsula of Macao juts out from the southeastern end of
Hiangshan,--a large island near the mouth of Lintin Bay,--and is
connected with it by a narrow, sandy isthmus. “The town,” says ----,
“occupies a position rather of beauty than strength; for the summits
that surround its peninsula side also command it, and the waters of
its inner and outer harbor are navigable for vessels of considerable
burden.” It is an old Portuguese colony,--the peninsula occupied by
the city being three miles in length by one in breadth. One side of
it is curved into a bay, whose beauty is often compared to the bay of
Naples. Along the shore-line of this curve lies the _Praya Grande_,--a
grand promenade. The opposite side of the peninsula is high and rocky,
with a little curve towards the sea; and the ridge of this eminence, as
well as its sloping sides, is covered with houses, churches, and now,
nearly deserted convents.
The Portuguese obtained permission to settle here about the year
1537,--not, however, as an independent community, but in association
with the native population, and during their good behavior or the
Emperor’s pleasure. For this privilege they promised, at first, to
pay a large sum of money, but their exclusive policy and efforts to
secure all the Chinese trade to themselves and the Spaniards, ruined
them in their speculations, so that the Emperor, in 1843, agreed to
receive from them the small ground-rent of one hundred and fifty
pounds sterling per annum. In 1847, according to Doctor Williams, the
population of the peninsula was not far from 30,000, of whom 5000 were
Portuguese.
Macao was formerly the private residence of the foreigners in Southern
China, but since the establishment of an English colony at Hong Kong,
it has been nearly deserted, except during the summer months, and even
then but few families frequent it for the whole of the warm season.
There are, however, foreign consuls there; the United States, at the
time of our visit, being represented by Gideon Nye, Jr., Esq.,--an
American gentleman whose earnest loyalty, elegant hospitality, and
kindness, will be pleasantly and gratefully remembered by all his
countrymen who visited Macao during his occupation of the consulate.
Some of the largest and most comfortable dwellings occupied by foreign
residents at Macao were erected one hundred and fifty years ago, when
the colony was the richest mart in Eastern Asia. They are built on the
plan common to most other Eastern cities, having walls two or three
feet in thickness, which are sufficiently strong to withstand the
devastating force of the terrible typhoons that annually visit the
country.
The mansion of the Governor of the colony is situated upon the
beautiful Praya Grande, and the extensive buildings formerly occupied
by the East India Company also front on that lovely promenade. One of
the oldest houses in Macao was the home of Dr. Williams, where we were
guests. It is two hundred years old, and its spacious apartments--like
those of other residences occupied by foreigners--are admirably
arranged, and adapted to the necessities of so warm a climate.
There are several forts, only one of which we visited. This is called
the Guia, or Del Monte, and was built in 1638,--one hundred years after
Macao was first settled. It stands on a rocky eminence of the same
name. In building it the rocky summit was merely cut down so as to form
a level surface. Stone battlements, having very thick walls, were then
constructed, and upon these guns are mounted. The Guia fort is the
highest elevation in the settlement, and as it commands an extensive
view of the sea and roads, is used as a signal-station.
In clambering up the hill to the Guia fort we encountered many Chinese
graves. These, as we have already mentioned, are never enclosed; but
the cattle pasture among them, and footpaths, made by the inhabitants,
lead between and around them. Before reaching the hill we passed
through a portion of the Government Park,[13] in which a memorialstone
is erected to mark the spot where, two centuries ago, a Dutch admiral
was killed while advancing from his boats to attack the colony.
The temple of Makauk--the first Buddhist monastery which we visited
in China--is a very picturesque joss-house, built among the cliffs
and granite boulders near the sea-shore. It is sacred to the goddess
_Kwanyin_, i. e. the Hearer of Cries; who is also called the Goddess of
Mercy, Holy Mother, and Queen of Heaven,--which Dr. Williams says is
only another form of “Our Lady.” Kwanyin, although more particularly
the goddess of the boat-people, fishermen, and sailors, is also a
favorite divinity of the Chinese generally. This temple is very old,
and is said to have been built by Chinese sailors, who were saved, with
their junks, through the perils of a dreadful typhoon, in which a great
number of seamen were lost. The main entrance is guarded by two huge,
but grotesque lions sculptured in stone, and the tall red flag-staff,
in front of the temple, designates its locality to the passer-by.
In one of the volumes of “Allum’s Views in the East,” there is a very
correct picture of this temple as seen from the harbor,--so faithful a
copy, indeed, that a careful observer, having once seen the temple from
that point, would readily recognize the original. A descriptive writer
of scenes in the East has given so minute and excellent an account of
this pile, that we cannot do better than to quote his words entire:--
“At the foot of the great stairway are three large monumental slabs
closely inscribed with names, titles, and laudatory records. An
enclosure, resembling the holy ground that surrounds the ancient
sanctuaries of Europe, is formed by means of walls connecting the rude
rocks that occur in the circuit, and which are always religiously
retained by Chinese artists to decorate. A balustrade, resting on
this dwarf wall, is divided by compartments enriched with tracery,
and decorated with various representations of instruments of music,
implements of art, and weapons of war. A child, seated on a quadruped
of a nondescript species, is attended by venerable men, and followed
by two females carrying umbrellas; while Satan, adorned with monstrous
horns, is fleeing from the party in the utmost dismay.[14]
“Another division is filled with a group representing the dedication
of the temple, and the votive act in which it had its foundation. The
design of the temple includes five separate structures,--the centre
more lofty, the lateral gradually descending from it, and different
also in character and decorations.
“A rich cornice supports a highly ornamental roof, entirely
of porcelain, on which rests a boat or junk, sculptured with
representations of various natural scenes and customs. Beneath the
cornice are two oblong panels, enclosed in frames of bright and colored
stone,--the higher containing bas-reliefs of grotesque figures and
extraordinary combinations, the lower filled with apothegms from the
writings of the great founders of the sect of idolaters who come
here to worship. Beneath this latter tablet opens a large circular
window, the frame of which appears to have been cut, with incalculable
labor, from a single block of stone. Pilasters, wholly covered with
inscriptions, separate the central from the lower divisions; and these
are also adorned with porcelain roofs, massive cornices, and tablets,
on which admonitions and wise maxims are emblazoned.
“Each division is pierced by a square window of large dimensions, the
carvings on which, although an extraordinary evidence of untiring
labor, and unexampled perseverance, are neither beautiful nor
intelligible.”
It was here that I first met with the banian-tree, which is always
found growing in the grounds of Buddhist temples. These trees had
attained a great age, and were so near the buildings that their great
gnarled roots grew over and under the rocks, while their branches
overshadowed much of the pile.
After examining the establishment we passed into one of the rooms of
the cloister, where we were served with some New-Year’s confectionary
by an old priest who had been an inmate of the temple fifty years.
The temple of Mongha--another Buddhist monastery--is situated about
a mile from Makauk, in the village of Wanghai, one of the suburbs of
Macao. It is famous from the circumstance that here, in 1844, the
treaty made by the United States plenipotentiary, the Hon. Caleb
Cushing, with the Imperial commissioner, Kéying, was ratified. Dr.
Williams, who visited this temple with us, and who was present at the
signing of that treaty, told us that the idols were removed from the
chief apartment in order to make room for the occasion.
The presence-chamber of this establishment, which contains large
brazen images of the Past, Present, and Future Buddha, is a spacious
apartment, decorated with extraordinary tracery and carvings. We
observed upon one side of the wall a remarkable specimen of the
latter, parts of which were painted in colors, and were told that it
represented the Buddhists’ idea of the cosmogony of the universe. This
confused and grotesque delineation of Oriental wisdom reminded us
of Goldsmith’s remark, that “the origin of the world has puzzled the
philosophers of all ages.” Whether this remark could with propriety
be applied to the world or not, we were pretty certain that it could
be applied to the picture, for a more incongruous and unmeaning
design we never remember of having seen. The temple had been renewed
at great expense, the year previous to our visit, and the grotesque
decorations of the exterior, together with the horrid-looking dragons
that ornamented the roof, were as bright and fresh as new paint and
gilding could make them. Beyond the chief presence-chamber there is a
shrine containing an image of the god Esculapius, and also one of the
goddess of mercy,--Kwanyin,--which is guarded on each side by grotesque
images. Tanka-boat women, in neat holiday attire, making New-Year’s
offerings and proffering requests, were prostrating themselves at her
shrine. These poor deluded women were kneeling on mats, and throwing
little bamboo sticks on the floor before them, in order to ascertain
whether the goddess would hear or refuse their petitions. At short
intervals,--while they were alternately casting the bits of bamboo,
and bowing until their foreheads touched the floor, or, rising, stood
burning incense or joss-sticks before the image,--a large bell, placed
a little at the right of the idol, was occasionally struck by a young
priest, so as to attract the attention of the deity.
These adorations, made to a senseless image, together with the ringing
of the bell, called to mind a passage in the First Book of Kings,
(xviii. 27,) and we could not but wonder how any person coming from a
land blessed with the teachings of the elevating religion of Jesus,
could witness such scenes of gross superstition and idolatry, without
rejoicing that the Christian missionary had been sent among these
people to teach them the truths of the Bible, and a knowledge of the
true God. The seemingly paradoxical expression, that “the credulity of
unbelief is greater than that of belief,” appeared here to have
“A local _habitation_ and a _name_;”
and although I remained in China long enough to become, in some degree,
accustomed to witnessing idol worship, still I never got rid of the
thoughts and impressions produced by the acts of heathen idolatry which
here came within my observation.
Three or four years ago the foreign Protestant residents at Macao
purchased a part of the large grounds belonging to the temple of
Mongha, and laid them out as a cemetery. Magnificent banians, of more
than two hundred years growth, ornament and shade the place, making it
one of the most charming localities in the suburbs of Macao. The old
Protestant burying-ground, located in the heart of the city, is also
an interesting and lovely spot. It was purchased of the Portuguese by
the old East India Company, and is enclosed within a high stone-wall,
having an entrance-gate which opens upon the San Antonio green. The
Protestant chapel stands within this enclosure, and the grounds are
ornamented with a variety of trees and shrubs. One little spot, in
this burial-place, was to us invested with a tenderly sad and mournful
interest, for here the mortal part of one of our own home-circle, who
had left us in the strength of his early manhood,
“Slept that still and placid sleep,
For which the weary pant in vain.”
Here, as at the Protestant grounds at Hong Kong we observed that the
majority of the interments were young men. It is natural for most
persons to feel a peculiar solemnity on visiting a burial-place, but
this emotion on entering a Christian cemetery in a distant heathen land
is greatly intensified. Several of the officers of the old East India
Company are buried in this enclosure; and the remains of Dr. Morrisson,
the English missionary, who made the first translation of the Bible
into the Chinese language, are also entombed here,--which circumstance
must always render the spot a place of distinguished interest to the
Christian. Other missionaries,--noble men and women,--who worked on
cheerfully until the exhausting influence of the climate forced them,
“Weary with the march of life,”
to lie down and die, here “sleep the sleep that knows no waking,” until
the morning of their bright and glorious resurrection.
Chinnery, the English artist, who during his lifetime became quite
famous for his fine delineation of Oriental scenery, and his remarkably
life-like sketches of the boat-people and other classes of Chinese,
has also a conspicuous tomb within these walls. His pictures not only
bear the impress of genius, but are particularly remarkable for their
exquisite fidelity to nature, in which respect he is justly entitled to
rank as the Teniers of the East.
Romanism is the established religion of the colony; yet, out of
thirteen churches, all but three are sequestered. St. Paul’s, a
grand old stone church, which was built in 1634, was destroyed by
fire in 1835. The façade, and high stone steps of this edifice are
still standing; and judging from the ruin, which is a conspicuous
object,--meeting the eye from every point of view,--it must have been
an imposing structure.
One of the chief points of interest in the Casa Gardens--which we
visited--is the grotto where Camoëns, the Portuguese poet, is said to
have written most of the Lusiad. Those familiar with that poem are
aware that its author was banished to Macao by his Government, and
spent five years of his life in that colony. The gardens are now owned
by a Portuguese family, who reside in the imposing old mansion within
the walls, and from whom visitors must procure permission to enter the
enclosure.
The place belonged formerly to the East India Company, and the house
was then occupied by the chief officer of that establishment. A grand
flight of stone steps leads to the main entrance of the dwelling, and
at the time of our visit pots of rare plants, placed on stands, were
arranged in a semicircle at their base; while oleanders--whose great
growth and tropical luxuriance gave them more the appearance of trees
than shrubs--were growing, and in full bloom on each side of the steps.
These beautiful grounds are enclosed within a high stone wall, and
were originally laid out on a scale of magnificence in keeping with
the luxurious style and princely state for which the officers of the
old East India Company, in their palmy days, were celebrated. Camoën’s
Grotto--which is situated in a charming spot--contains a bronze bust of
the poet, standing on a pedestal, on which are also traced, in bronze
letters, some stanzas from the “Lusiad.” There is also set in the rock
a marble panel, having engraved upon it a poem in praise of Camoëns.
The poetic inscription is by a Frenchman, who calls himself the “poete
exile.” The bust is a rude piece of art, but we were told that one,
finely sculptured in marble, was about to be sent from Portugal to
replace it. The Portuguese nation have long since awakened to a just
sense of Camoën’s merits, but they can never blot out the severe
expressions that occur in some passages of his great poem, in which he
laments the neglect and injustice which he suffered from his country.
Among these the following is full of the most bitter irony.
“Ye gentle nymphs of Tago’s rosy bowers,
Ah, see what lettered patron-lords are yours!
Dull as the herds that graze their flowery dales,
To them in vain the injured Muse bewails:
No fostering care their barbarous hands bestow,
Though to the Muse their fairest fame they owe!”
Trees overshadow this grotto, and a flight of stone steps lead to the
top, where a large flat surface extends over and beyond it. When Macao
was the principal residence of the families of foreign merchants,
picnics were held in these gardens, and the children performed their
little dances upon this rocky floor.
In most parts of the grounds tropical trees and shrubs are so numerous
as to form an almost impenetrable shade; while the tough and gnarled
roots of hoary banians have crept up and down some parts of the old
walls which enclose the gardens, until they have formed a sort of
network which acts as a support for the masonry. In other places the
banian, of great age and size, grows from the fissures of high, jagged
rocks, and the serpent-like roots bind the rudely broken masses and
granite boulders firmly together. In contrast with these are the
beautifully graceful clusters of bamboo, some varieties of the palm,
and trees of a delicate acacia foliage.
We were indebted to the kindness of our Consul, Mr. Nye, for a charming
boat excursion to _Tui-mien-shan_, or Lapa Island, which lies west of
Macao. A large surface of ground, at the head of a little valley on
this island, is covered with broken rocks, and boulders of every shape
and size. Among those there is one of very large dimensions, which,
on being struck with an iron instrument gives out a loud, clear, and
ringing sound, like that produced by striking sonorous metal. From
this circumstance it has received the name of the “Ringing Rock,” and
persons visiting it always carry iron hammers with them, in order to
amuse themselves with the echo which it creates in the valley.
The pleasant rambles on this island are much frequented by foreigners;
so leaving the “Ringing Rock,” and ascending the hill, we were just
bending our steps towards a large boulder, in order to rest under its
inviting shade, when we were startled by coming suddenly upon what
appeared to be a frightful snake. The seeming reptile, which was coiled
around a shrub, proved, however, to be only the old skin that a snake,
over eight feet in length, had recently left there. The power of the
final effort made by his snakeship, in casting off the old habiliment,
was manifest from the great number of involutions left in the skin near
the tail. We were assured that the snake was not of a venomous species,
but could not be induced to remain in that locality, and gladly
returned to the more cultivated parts of the vale, where the water
of an enchanting little rivulet was made to turn the rude machinery
of a very primitive grist-mill. The hoppers of the mill were turned
by an overshot-wheel, on which were bamboo cogs,--water conducted
through bamboo canes being used in order to prevent friction. We did
not, however, incline to linger by the way, and were glad when we had
regained the landing, and were once more on board of Mr. Nye’s spacious
boat, the _Picnic_, on our return to town.
The Chinese manufacture an excellent lime from fossil oyster-shells,
and the people following that business at Macao live in a place called
the “Lime-kiln Village.” Visiting that locality late in the afternoon,
we witnessed a curious exhibition of the economy and management of the
people. The weather was unusually cold, and at one place a circular
burning kiln filled with shells was surrounded by a crowd of women
and children. The diameter of the kiln was about ten feet, and the
top surface, which was one mass of fire, was covered with the little
stewpans, and tea-water vessels of the women, who were busy cooking
their evening meal, while the children were pressing near, in order to
warm their thinly clad and shivering little bodies. The savory fumes,
with which the place was redolent, were suggestive of ragouts made of
certain little animals which are said to be the favorite food of the
lower class of Chinese.
FOOTNOTES:
[12] _Tanka_ means egg; therefore these boats, being egg-shaped,
are called in the Colony tanka-boats, and the women managing them,
tanka-women.
[13] On our excursion to the Guia we traversed a portion of the Praya,
and also the Alameda, a public square, which is planted with trees, and
passing through one of the two gates, in the northern wall of the city,
followed the Campo Road that led to this park.
[14] In the religion of the Chinese there is no love of their god, but
a great fear of the devil, or of the spirit of evil, which they are
always aiming to propitiate.
CHAPTER VII.
After nine days of great enjoyment at Macao, our passage having been
secured in the American steamer _Spark_, that plied between the
latter place and Canton, we once more embarked, and were soon on
our way to Whampoa.[15] The captain and first officer of the vessel
were Americans, and our ensign, floating at the stern, reminded us
pleasantly of home and Fatherland.
It was on the 11th of February, a beautifully clear, tropical winter
morning, and, passing rapidly the fertile and lovely islands of the
great Delta, we were soon at the mouth of the Bocca Tigris, or Bogue
River. The islands of this delta were formerly greatly infested with
pirates, and as we threaded the intricacies of the little Archipelago
our attention was frequently directed to certain points noted as having
been their rendezvous. Since the establishment of steam navigation,
however, between Canton and Macao, and also between the former place
and Hong Kong, travellers have rarely fallen into the hands of the
pirates whose junks and fishing-boats were at one time common in those
waters,--although in a few instances parties of these buccaneers have
gone boldly as passengers on board the steamers with the intention
of trying to take them. Their designs, however, have usually been
discovered and frustrated; but after the disclosure of one of these
plots it is customary to search all Chinese passengers on their coming
on board, in order to see if they have any weapons concealed about
their persons, and an armed guard is then placed over them until it
is ascertained to be perfectly safe again to allow them unrestrained
freedom. The steamers are armed, and the officers, as well as most of
the foreigners, when travelling, carry pistols about them, so that
there is now comparatively little to apprehend, for English authority
is feared as well as respected in China.
Before reaching the mouth of the Bocca Tigris we sailed over a large
expanse of water called the Linten Bay,--a name which it derives from
an island situated in the southern part of the bay, and near which
the opium ships used to anchor. Here we fell in with numerous trading
and fishing-junks, and also with market and passenger-boats, which,
in spite of their clumsy rigging, and heavy matting sails, moved with
much rapidity through the water. The forms of many of these sails were
singularly grotesque, and some of them reminded us very strongly of
the wings of an enormous butterfly. Many of the vessels were painted
in brilliant colors, and all had eyes traced on their prows. Indeed,
it is a very uncommon thing to find a Chinese boat, or even a larger
vessel, unprovided with these eyes; and if you ask a Chinaman the
reason for so extraordinary a fashion, he usually replies,--“No got
eye, no can see;--how fashion can makee walkee?”
The ruins and remains of the Bogue forts, at the entrance of the
Bocca Tigris, are sufficient to give one an idea of the frail
defences,--which they proved to be,--when exposed to the fire of
European guns; and one of our party, at the first glance, remarked
“that they must have made a man-of-war laugh.” There were ten of those
fortifications, all of which were completely destroyed. One of them,
situated on the mainland, was called _hie shoe_, from its resemblance
in form to a Chinese lady’s shoe. A little further on we passed Tiger
Island, so called because its outline, as seen when approaching from
the river, is not unlike that of a tiger couchant.
Whampoa,--or the yellow anchorage,--where we arrived early in the
afternoon, is a reach extending four miles along the river. It is
twelve miles distant from Canton. Ships cannot ascend further than
this point, but freight is carried to, and from them by means of
large cargo-boats. The old town of Whampoa, with its tall pagoda, is
situated on an island of the same name, which lies at the north of
the anchorage. The banks of the stream on that side are very low; and
although only the highest buildings, with an occasional minaret-like
cupola, are visible above the foliage of the trees, it is strikingly
Oriental in appearance. The people of the town have never been very
friendly to foreigners, and consequently the place is but rarely
visited. As we neared the anchorage, the low flat shores were far
from wearing an inviting look, nor were the two miserably squalid
villages of Bambootown, and Newtown,--which are occupied by fishermen
and boat-people,--in the least attractive; although acting as foil,
they helped to set off the picture, making the green hills and fertile
little valleys of the large islands look all the more agreeable.
On Dane’s Island are two extensive dry docks,--one belonging to an
American firm, and the other to an English company. The latter is a
very large stone structure, where the English mail-steamers and naval
vessels are repaired and refitted. Although at that time there was less
foreign shipping in the harbor than usual, still a number of vessels
from the United States, as well as from England, and other European
ports, were at anchor in the reach, and that part of the settlement in
the vicinity of the docks, bore quite a business aspect.
Foreigners, whose business oblige them to reside at Whampoa, live in
floating dwellings, called “chops.”[16] These are built on ships,
which, after having seen some service, and their spars and rigging
having been taken down, are then used as foundations for houses.
They are moored in a part of the reach where the river is very wide,
being placed a little on one side of the channel used by the steamers
and trading vessels in passing and repassing to and from Canton. The
cabins and state-rooms at the stern are converted into store-rooms,
pantries, and bath-rooms. The forecastle is used for servants, and
over the entire vessel a story is built, that is divided into large
and conveniently arranged apartments, and when fitted up with all
the necessary comforts of life, are in many ways far more desirable
homes than can safely be made on shore. The kitchen is at the bow of
the vessel; and from there to the centre,--near which is the boundary
of the family apartments,--are the business offices, and also rooms
for foreign clerks. On one side, a narrow passage-way leads from the
kitchen to the family apartments. There is another similar passage-way
on the other side, which, however, has no connection with the house
apartments; and for the convenience of men of business visiting the
offices, as well as for the servants, steps lead to the water from
both of these passages. The flat roof of the family apartments is so
constructed as to serve for a promenade. The latter, however, is not
enclosed, but has a covering, the frame of which rests on stanchions;
and in order to exclude the sun, shades, made of a kind of grass, are
arranged so as to drop from the roof. A table, bamboo settees, and
easy-chairs occupy a portion of this space, yet there is ample room for
the enjoyment of one’s afternoon “constitutional,” when the weather
does not allow of boating, or a ramble upon the shore. Some chops have
little verandas, or galleries enclosed with Venetian blinds, which are
built on each side of the family rooms, and resting on braces, extend
from the sides of the ship upward. These are ornamental, and make the
house cooler in summer and warmer in winter, thus adding greatly to the
comfort of the family.
The low lands and rice-fields in the neighborhood of Whampoa render
the climate malarious; but by being out in a stream with so swift a
current as that of the Pearl,--called by us the Canton River,--the
miasma does not readily reach the inmates of the floating houses,
neither is the air loaded with the shocking odors that often greet
one’s olfactories when in the vicinity of Chinese settlements. Although
the hills and the pleasant vales, on the islands opposite, have many
fine locations for dwellings, the time is not yet arrived when the
advantages of shore-life can equal those of “chop”-life; and this
manner of living, therefore, is preferred by the consuls, officers of
the customs, traders, and foreigners generally.
Our steamer stopped when nearly opposite this floating community,
and the passengers were conveyed to their homes in the _sanpans_
of the Chinese boatmen. Our chop was a Baltimore clipper which had
originally been built for the slave-trade; but not succeeding in
that nefarious traffic, she was taken to China, and having been sold
to the Imperial Government, a comfortable house was erected on her
hull for the accommodation of the chief officer of their customs at
Whampoa. Occidentals, who are not acquainted with chop-life in the
East, invariably associate it with what they read in reference to the
multitudes of poor people living in boats upon the waters of China, and
hence imagine it to be a miserably half-civilized mode of existence.
To such persons the idea must be accompanied with a poverty-stricken
picture of discomfort, and an utter want of all the comforts of life,
and the amenities of a cultivated home. On the contrary, however, my
own experience in this novel mode of living was not only agreeable, but
the oddity of it, together with our strange surroundings, gave it a
peculiar charm. Our chop, comfortable in every arrangement, answered in
exterior to the description already given of those built with verandas.
There was one exception, however, as we had the advantage of an extra
flight of steps for family use, which led from our own apartments
to the water. The rooms were large and airy, with windows opening
to the floors; and the latter being painted in figures and highly
varnished, had the appearance of being covered with nice oil-cloth. The
furniture,--like that of all foreign houses in China,--was European
in the style of its manufacture.[17] Even the beautiful china-ware
of the country,--which we admire so much at home,--is rarely used by
foreigners when living among the Chinese; the simplest European table
furniture being considered far preferable. Carpets are only used during
the winter, when they are found to be very comfortable. During the
year that I was in China, the winter was colder than usual, and we
were glad to use the little American stoves with which our rooms were
furnished. One of the few disagreeables of this kind of floating life
was the constant change of view. We were continually turning with the
ebb and flow of the tide, and consequently, if one sat at the same
window a whole morning, there was an entire change of scene, and of
course a corresponding change in the points of the compass. An inactive
person, however, to whom variety is pleasing, might even enjoy this.
The river at the anchorage is very broad and deep, and fearfully
rapid,--so much so, in fact, that a person falling into it must be an
expert swimmer in order to save himself.
The house-servants in China are all men, but Cantonese women are
employed as nurses for children, and also as waiting-maids for the
ladies. The enervating influence of the climate obliges Western women
to take life easily; and being obliged to drop most of their active
pursuits, they usually are greatly dependent upon the services of these
women. The Chinese _Amahs_--as these nurses and waiting-maids are
called--often have bright and genial faces; and when introduced into
a household where all the servants wear the grave and stolid faces of
Chinamen, are a great relief to the every-day picture of domestic life.
We found the men-servants very respectful and obliging, and not only
as conscious of kind and fair dealing, but quite as grateful for it as
the human race are generally. The Chinese are a patient, persevering,
and industrious people, but they have not the appearance of a cheerful
race. The respectable serving-women, with whom I came in contact,
seemed more cheerful than the men, but even among them I rarely met
with a joyous face. This, however, may in a great measure be owing to
there being no day of rest like our Sabbath, and therefore no cessation
from their daily toil, except on the occasion of some heathen festival.
The children of the boat-people learn to work as soon as they can
handle an oar; and those of the landsmen whenever their little forms
have acquired strength sufficient to bear the bamboo shoulder-piece,
and the little buckets of water, or small packages that pend from
either end. I have rarely seen young children, or even men, bear such
heavy burdens as they are accustomed to carry in China. The river at
Whampoa,--always teeming with boat-life,--frequently presented sad
objects of suffering poverty. I saw, however, among these boat-people
many neat, comfortable, and apparently happy families.[18]
The head-servants employed by foreign families speak the “pigeon”
English, and act as interpreters for the other domestics. This _patois_
is nearly a literal rendering of the Chinese idiom into a dialect which
is more like “English baby-talk” than anything else I can compare
it to, and foreigners readily acquire it. The particular duties of
each servant are regulated by fixed rules, and if one should order
his “boy,” or head-servant, to sweep his room, or carry his trunk to
the boat, the ready answer would be,--“That no my pigeon; my callee
house-Coolie.” On the other hand, should the house-Coolie be ordered to
purchase the supplies, or polish the silver, the grave but respectful
answer would be,--“That no my pigeon; my callee boy.” A Coolie works
for certain wages, and makes his own bargains, nor will he serve unless
paid his price. Should a foreigner attempt to impose upon or cheat a
Coolie, and the fact be made known to him after he had commenced his
services, he would leave him directly. A chair-Coolie, under such
circumstances, would set down the sedan, and in the most independent
manner refuse to move unless his terms were complied with.
I am thus particular in speaking of this class of the Chinese, because
the remark has been made to me that the difference as to their position
in relation to foreigners, and the wealthier classes of their own
people, must be as great as that of American slaves to their masters.
But the difference between a people free to go where they please,--to
make their own bargains, and to contend with their employers for right
and justice,--and the poor enslaved African of the South, is as wide
as that between light and darkness. As servants, I found the Coolies
very systematic and willing, as well as quick at learning to perform
their duties according to our ideas, or, as they would say, “America
fashion.” A lady rarely, if ever, enters the kitchen, and all orders
are given to the butler or head-servant. On ordering a dish in which
the cook is unskilled, he brings his little furnace to a large pantry,
where the lady of the house, with the aid of a waiting-man’s “pigeon”
English, and an occasional use of unmistakable pantomime, succeeds in
giving the grave and stolid-looking representative of the culinary art
instruction that will not be forgotten. And ever after, that piece of
cookery will be an exact copy of his first, and only needed lesson.
On entering upon life in China I was told that I must not expect the
servants to be in any degree nice and cleanly, according to our Western
ideas. I was, however, so fortunate as not to be conscious of this; and
although I regularly penetrated into nooks and corners,[19]--beyond
what I should otherwise have done,--in order to mark the difference,
the result was always favorable to the general neatness and tidy habits
of our Coolies, as compared with most of the foreign servants we have
in the United States.
With an Englishman his dinner is said to be the event of the day.
It is, however, well known that an American is not altogether
indifferent to that meal; but, be that as it may, inasmuch as English
customs prevail in the little foreign circles at the ports of China,
entertaining by dinner-parties is the dominant mode, and the arrival
of a stranger is the signal for a round of “dinings out.” If served
by the better class of Chinese servants, even those people who live
in the simplest manner have no care nor trouble about such matters
of hospitality. All orders in relation to the entertainment are
given to the head-servant, who, on being told the number of guests
expected, makes all the arrangements _en regle_, and serves the
dinner as handsomely as can be desired. The wealthy merchants live
luxuriously, and they, as well as some of the representatives of
foreign governments, keep butlers who are proficient in their calling.
A well-trained Chinese waiting-man, however, never deviates from the
prescribed forms, all of which are carefully attended to wherever he
serves.
A gentleman on being invited out to dine takes his servant with him,
the latter always coming under the direction of the butler of the host,
although the place of each is near the chair of his master, and all
are waited on with quietness and precision. Probably the English--who
have better trained servants than we have in the United States--may not
remark these little matters as readily as an American, who has seen her
countrywomen, on account of inefficient domestics, well-nigh appalled
at the prospect of inviting a few guests to dinner. To all such, a
household served by good Chinese servants would seem, in some respects,
an Elysium.
Foreigners usually breakfast at a late hour, and frequently, in the
summer, the greater part of the business of the day is transacted
before taking that meal. They are served, however, on first rising,
with what in India is called the “little breakfast.” This is brought to
their rooms, and consists of a cup of tea, a bit of unbuttered toast,
and some fruit. There are several varieties of the orange, and during
the greatest part of the year that fruit is very abundant. The finest
kinds are the mandarin, and the sweet Coolie orange. These, when in
season, form a large portion of this early meal; and then the plantain,
the lichi, a nice kind of plum, the peach, the mango, custard-apple,
and persimmon, together with a few other fruits, reach into the early
autumn, when the delicious oranges are again gladly welcomed.
The Chinese language knows but one gender, and when a lady speaks to
a servant, he answers--“Sir,” the same as he does to a gentleman.
Indeed, among the Chinese, woman seems to be as completely absorbed
in the other sex, as some of their devotee bonzes are in the essence
of Buddha. For example: if, in telling a servant that guests are
expected to breakfast or dinner, he wishes to ask for what number he
is to prepare the entertainment, he says,--“How many piece man hab got
come?”--or, how many persons are coming? a woman as well as a man being
always designated as a “one piece man.”
No reflecting woman, transferred from the pale of Christendom to a
heathen land, can live there for any length of time without a profound
feeling of gratitude that she was born and educated in a land of
Bible religion. Foreigners rarely see the better class of women in
China; but the condition of the lower class of females in any country
is generally a pretty fair index to that of the higher classes, and
judging by this standard, the condition of the highest in the “Central
Flowery Land” is lamentable. The women of China carry their infants
on their backs, and bind them to their persons with the same sort of
contrivances that our Indians use in carrying their pappooses. It is
common to see women, with their children thus snugly disposed of,
sculling the sanpans, or engaged in other menial employments. This mode
of carrying children is much approved by foreigners, whose Cantonese
nurses often dispose of their infant charges in the same manner.
Most persons in the East are fond of boating; while those who are
confined to “chop-life” are compelled, from the exigencies of their
situation, to cultivate a taste for it. The well-appointed gigs and
sanpans with which the Whampoa chops are supplied, afford a most
agreeable manner of locomotion; the neatly-kept sanpan, in particular,
with its nicely cushioned seats, and ample space for full dress, being
a desirable substitute for a carriage, either for business or pleasure.
Exercise in the open air is never more necessary than when living in a
tropical climate; and if the weather did not admit either of boating,
or walking on shore, we made use of our promenade. In fine weather,
seeking the shores of French, or Dane’s Island, and taking the paths
that crossed the unfenced fields in every direction, (there are no
roads in China,) we rambled among the graves, or along the hill-sides,
where we obtained views that were more or less picturesque, and
sometimes very beautiful.
Upon the summit of a lofty hill on Dane’s Island, amid a fine growth
of evergreens, is located the cemetery for the Parsee traders living
at Canton. There are many charming landscapes to be seen from this
eminence; and the country, with its well cultivated valleys, and
populous villages, impresses one favorably as being a remarkably
fertile region, and the inhabitants an industrious race of people.
It not being deemed quite safe, we never ventured far from the river
without having some one of our boat-people, in whom we had confidence,
with us, as a sort of rear-guard.
The aspect of nature in China is not cheerful; nor does wandering amid
its scenes always produce buoyancy of spirits, as it is wont to do in
other lands. On the contrary, it is like wandering through a graveyard,
for the country is one vast burial-ground, and the little tumuli, which
one is constantly meeting at every step of out-door life, are but so
many _memento mori_ that lead one to the tenderly solemn thoughts
with which one’s own home-places of interment are invested. The place
of burial for the foreigners of Canton is upon a pleasant hill-side
on French Island. Our first Minister to China--the Hon. Alexander
Everett--lies interred there. A granite obelisk marks the spot. At
the base of the same hill, where it forms a steep river bank, are the
graves of a number of foreign sailors, who were interred there in the
early days of the East India Company, when the dislike and opposition
of the Chinese to “outside barbarians” was such that they would not
allow them to be buried anywhere else. These graves are so near the
water, that, at the flow of the tide, many of them are partially
submerged.
The Bethel “chop,” which was occupied by the family of the chaplain,
was provided with a large apartment built and fitted up expressly
for a chapel, where services were held every Sunday. Where, however,
as is the case in China, the boat-people, artisans, tradespeople,
and pleasure-seekers are as intent in the pursuit of their several
callings and amusements on Sunday, as on any other day, the soothing
and grateful influences of a quiet Christian Sabbath cannot be enjoyed.
The Bethel clergyman had also a place in Bambootown, where, during the
week, he performed missionary work among the natives.
No people can exceed the Chinese in their love of noise; hence,
fire-crackers, gongs, tom-toms, and other musical instruments of
harsh and strangely discordant notes are in request, not only at
marriages, and other festivals, but also at funerals. Scarcely a day
passed at Whampoa, without some one of these occasions producing a
most heathenish racket. If asked what the uproar was about, the answer
would sometimes be, “One piece man hab makee die,” or, “One piece man
hab makee marry;” or perhaps it was the festival of some heathen god,
and then the reply would be,--“Some chin-chin joss,” or, “Some joss
pigeon.”[20]
One day Mr. W---- having asked a worker in camphor-wood if he could
have some articles which he was making for us completed at a certain
time, he was answered with--“No can, my old muder hab makee die; my
must go bury he.” Thinking that the woman had just died, and admiring
the man’s filial affection, our sympathies were at once excited. On
making further inquiries, however, we learned that the man’s mother
had been dead two or three years, but that he did not wish to tell a
foreigner that the season had come when he must visit the graves of his
fathers, and perform the customary ancestral adorations. The first part
of April is the season for performing this idolatrous service. It is
called _pai shan_, or worshipping at the hills, and is the time when
all the people--men, women, and children--visit their family graves;
where, after renewing, or putting them in neat order, they present
sacrifices of food, offer libations, and burn incense. After going
through various idolatrous ceremonies and prayers, pieces of red and
white paper are placed at the back part of the graves or tombs, where
they are made secure by placing small fragments of turf upon them.
These bits of paper remain a long time as evidence that the customary
annual rites have been performed. In our daily walks upon the island,
directly after this season, we observed that scarcely a grave had been
neglected.
The worship of Manes is the chief idolatry of the nation; and besides
their yearly adorations at the hills, nearly every house has an
“ancestral hall,” which is a room where wooden tablets, sacred to the
dead,--called _shin chu_, i. e., “house of the spirit,”--are set up and
worshipped. These tablets are about twelve inches in length by three in
width, and have the name, rank, date of birth, and death, carved in the
wood. While at Fuh-chau, the wife of a missionary of the American Board
presented me with a tablet which had formerly belonged to, and been
worshipped by, an old gentleman who is now a member of the Fuh-chau
Mission Church. It was, however, lost when I fell into the hands of the
pirates, but fortunately the note accompanying it was among the few
papers which I saved; and in order to illustrate more fully the nature
of this kind of worship, I quote from it what my friend wrote in regard
to the history of the tablet:--
“From the old gentleman to whom the tablet belonged, I have this
morning gathered the following facts: It represented his father, and
is fifty-six or seven years old. He says he used to think his father’s
spirit was in it, but now he regards it as wood, and does not think so.
It was worshipped on the first and fifteenth of each month; also at New
Year, and at feast times. By a little computation, then, we find that
this senseless block of wood has been worshipped more than a thousand
times; or rather, we should say, that the spirit which was supposed to
inhabit it has thus been worshipped. Of course I cannot say definitely
as to the number of times, as circumstances may sometimes have arisen
to prevent the regular worship. This reminds one of Elijah’s address to
the prophets of Baal. The old man himself is sixty years of age. His
name is Ka-Hang, and I believe he has been connected with our church
more than a year.”
The English Consul resided at Canton, and the vice-consul, Dr. H----,
who was stationed at Whampoa, occupied a three-decker man-of-war, which
was the largest “chop” at the anchorage. This accomplished English
official,--who is a naturalist, and well known to some of our men of
science in New England,--with his cultivated family, added greatly to
the attractions and agreeableness of the singularly novel kind of life
which we led at Whampoa; while a few other pleasant neighbors, together
with frequent intercourse with friends at Canton, afforded sufficient
variety to prevent it from becoming wearisome.
Every kind of life has its disagreeable features; our own, during
“chop-life,” being made up of occasional fears lest we should be run
into by Chinese vessels. Although these were not allowed to sail on our
side of the reach, they were sometimes drifted by the current, driven
by the wind, or perhaps badly steered, until they came unpleasantly
near us. At night, notwithstanding both European and Chinese watchmen
were constantly on the alert, if any unusual noise was heard without,
the idea of a possible collision with a clumsy junk was fearful. One
day, while at dinner, Mr. W----’s attention was arrested by an unusual
noise, which evidently proceeded from Chinese sailors. He hastened out
to inquire into the cause of the wild commotion, and in a few moments
came rushing back, saying that an immense junk was coming upon the
chop, and bade me follow him to our private entrance, where he had
ordered our faithful boatman, As-sing, to bring round the sanpan and
take us off. Our position was fearful; and even if it had not been, the
frightful screams and vociferations of the Chinese would have well-nigh
made it seem so, their dreadful clamor producing a scene of such terror
and confusion, that, for a short time, we were nearly powerless. As we
were about stepping into our boat, however, a message came that the
vessel was clearing us, and we escaped with only a slight injury to the
roof of our promenade. The poor sailors were the more terrified from
the fact that they were aware the “chop” belonged to their Government;
and knowing that they had no business on that side of the stream, they
were appalled by the prospect of the severe punishment which would
surely follow should they happen to sink us. Being panic-stricken, and
unable to manage their craft, they must have drifted directly upon us,
had not an European seaman been sent aboard the junk to get her out of
the neighborhood of our vessel.
The mercury was at 80° in April, and averaged from 88° to 90° in May.
Unless a thunder-storm was approaching, however, this degree of heat
did not oppress us as it would have done at home. Through the spring
and early part of the summer, while the rainy season lasted, the
dampness, which penetrated everywhere, covered many things with mould.
Storms were then quite frequent, and the thunder and lightning very
terrific. Sometimes there was one continuous roar and constant blaze
during the whole night, while the rain fell in torrents; and on one
occasion a fearfully crashing bolt struck the water within a few rods
of our “chop.”
FOOTNOTES:
[15] Pronounced Wompoo, _i. e._ the yellow anchorage.
[16] This word has various meanings; I do not know, however, why it
is applied to these floating houses. The Chinese merchants speak of
a “chop” of tea or silk, meaning an amount which bears a certain
mark. They eat with chop-sticks; and a ship’s clearance to go to
sea, after she has taken cargo, is called a “grand chop.” Then there
is the expression, “chop-chop,” meaning, if addressed to a servant,
to “be quick,” or, “do it immediately.” To say “chop-chop” to your
chair-Coolie, means “step faster.”
[17] If a sample--called by the Chinese a “muster”--of Western
furniture is given to a Cantonese cabinet-maker, he will directly
produce a well-made and exact copy of the original.
[18] The unquestioned obedience which is rendered to Chinese parents
by their children, and the respectful reverence that is manifested
for the aged by all classes of the people, are the most remarkable
characteristics of the nation. In fact, the Chinese unwittingly keep
that commandment to which is annexed the promise, and it has been
questioned by many, whether their great antiquity and long-continued
existence as a prosperous nation, may not be owing to the honor they
pay their parents.
[19] The housekeeper has the store-rooms, pantries, safes for food,
etc., under her own supervision.
[20] That is, some god-worship.
CHAPTER VIII.
While living at Whampoa we went often to Canton, passing, altogether,
a month there in visiting friends, and places of interest. Steamers
carrying passengers and freight were despatched every alternate day
from Hong Kong and Macao, to Canton,--running up and down the estuary
and river; but although these boats always stopped at Whampoa, my
first sail up the river to the “City of Genii”--as an old legend terms
it--was made in a sanpan, which was rowed by three Chinese boatmen, and
sculled by a woman.
It was a clear and balmy morning in February,--the weather being more
like one of our cool and perfect summer days at home, when one always
feels the appositeness of Herbert’s lines:--
“Sweet day, so cool, so clear, so bright,
The bridal of the earth and sky.”
The New-Year festival had closed the day previous, but the Chinese
vessels and boats were still bedecked with their holiday trappings.
The newly painted junks with their butterfly sails, fancy streamers,
and red flags, made quite a gay appearance, and together with the
passenger-boats, cargo-boats, and sanpans,--from which were also
fluttering bright flags, streamers, and red papers,--produced a scene
at once unique and brilliant.
The land, on both sides of the river, which is low, is mostly used for
the cultivation of rice; and husbandmen, with their rude ploughs drawn
by buffalo oxen, were already preparing the soil to receive the seed.
The plantain, with its long, heavy clusters of ripening fruit, was
growing in great luxuriance upon the borders of the stream.
We had scarcely passed the pagoda in the neighborhood of Old Whampoa,
and the towering one of nine stories on Lob Creek, when the Barrier
pagoda came full in view. These tall structures, shooting up at
different points in a landscape of low, flat country, not only relieve
the monotonous sameness of the picture, but greatly embellish the
scene. Here we also passed the ruins of the Barrier Forts that were
destroyed by our lamented Commodore Foote. We observed while in
China that the name of no American naval commander was as frequently
mentioned as that of this officer; the most casual allusion to him
always bringing forth an eulogium upon his gentlemanly and consistent
Christian character, as well as upon his skill and fine judgment as
an officer. Above these ruins we met a two-masted vessel of some
petty Mandarin. Both wind and tide being against her, she was towed
by Coolies, who ran along the river’s bank,--like horses towing a
canalboat,--while pulling at the line of rope that was fastened to
her. Near this scene an Imperial fleet of four men-of-war and eight
gun-boats were lying at anchor. These were newly painted vessels, and
although an occasional line of black and white relieved the garish
brilliancy of the red, the latter was the prevailing color. This fleet
was part of a naval force which was mustering at Canton, and were to
be sent North to fight the rebels. For some months it made Canton its
rendezvous, and finally numbered sixty vessels of war, besides a large
flotilla of covered boats for soldiers. On the 27th of July following,
however, when nearly ready to proceed North, it was dispersed and
destroyed by one of the most terrible typhoons that ever visited
Southern China. The men-of-war were huge junks, with monstrously fierce
eyes--such as the Chinese always give their Imperial dragon--painted
upon their prows. They were undoubtedly designed to strike the natives
with awe; and their wildly grotesque and terrible appearance was
admirably adapted for that purpose.
The appearance of Canton, as approached by the river, is low, squalid,
and uninviting. The most conspicuous objects are the watch-towers upon
the city walls, and the pagodas, which tower above all other buildings.
The houses are mostly of one story, and stretch along the river for
more than four miles. Those built nearest the water rest on piles which
are driven into the sand; and these, with the lower parts of the city,
are subject to inundations. Far out into the river, and along the
banks, the water was nearly covered with boats of various colors and
sizes. The largest and most conspicuous were the Flower and Mandarin
boats,--these being, as a general thing, highly ornamented with
carvings and gildings, and, being painted in brilliant colors, made a
very showy appearance. There was also a long and narrow little craft
called the Snake-boat, which is much used in towing larger vessels when
they have to stem the tide. Near the city we passed one of these having
a Mandarin-boat in tow.
Some of the foreigners at Canton have a pleasure-boat called the
_Matrimonial_, which, luxurious in its appointments, is finely arranged
to meet the necessities of a warm climate. Our countryman, Mr. G----,
the Commissioner of the Imperial Customs, had one of these, which he
kindly placed at our disposal whenever we were in the city; and all
our boating, when visiting the places of interest upon the river, was
done in it. The spacious cabin, which was furnished with divans and
pillows, was also enclosed with Venetian blinds, which were so arranged
as to be readily removed if the sun was obscured, or when at evening we
visited the Macao Passage, in order to enjoy the cooling influence of
the southwest monsoon.
In the middle of the river, nearly where the boat-life is the most
animated, there is a little green island, called by the Chinese
“Eastern Sea-fish Pearl,” but by foreigners “Dutch Folly,”--which, with
its fine old trees, and few oddly fantastic Chinese buildings, adds
greatly to the picture of busy life.
Before the bombardment of Canton by the Allies, the business hongs and
homes of the foreign merchants, called the “Factories,” were in the
western suburb. These being situated on the river had an airy location,
which afforded a cool and agreeable residence to Europeans. Since
the destruction of these factories, however, the merchants have had
their hongs at Honam. This is an island which lies directly opposite
the city, and forms one of its extensive suburbs. Foreigners have
now a more desirable place for building than that formerly occupied
by them in the western suburbs. For this purpose a large portion of
ground, also situated on the river, but farther up the stream than the
factories, was ceded to the Allies in the last treaty of peace made
between them and the Imperial Government. Along its border, facing the
river, a high sea-wall has been built, and the whole area prepared for
the erection of buildings. The place is called “_Shameen_,” or “new
sand,” “beach face;” and being situated opposite the fork of the river
that forms the Macao Passage, it is one of the most airy and desirable
localities for foreigners in Canton. This passage is formed by the
branching of the river at a point nearly opposite the Shameen. Here a
large portion of the water from the rivers of the North (which flow
in a southerly direction) passes around the island of Honam. A great
part of this water, however, again joins the Pearl River near Whampoa;
while the remainder, continuing to flow south, enters the great Delta
nearer the sea. During the summer months the southwest monsoon blows
with refreshing coolness up this passage, which renders it the favorite
resort of foreigners, who in their boats seek the middle of the stream,
where, lying on their oars, they enjoy the delicious and gratefully
invigorating air. When we were at Canton in the spring of 1862, very
few dwellings had been erected on the Shameen. Large bungalows,
however, with thatched roofs, and neatly covered verandas, had been
put up by some of the merchants as temporary summer retreats from the
stifling heat of their hongs at Honam.
“The earliest notices of the city of Canton date back two centuries
before Christ; but traders were doubtless located here prior to that
time. It grew in importance as the country became better settled, and
in A. D. 700, a regular market was opened, and a collector of customs
appointed. When the Manchus overran the country, this city resisted
their utmost efforts to reduce it for the space of eleven months, and
even then was only carried by treachery. Martini says that 100,000 men
were killed during this siege,--the whole number who lost their lives
while the city was invested being 700,000, if the native accounts are
trustworthy. Since then it has been rebuilt, and has increased in
prosperity, until it is regarded as the fourth city in the Empire in
point of numbers.”[21]
“The foundations of the city walls are of sandstone, and their upper
part brick. They are about twenty feet thick, and from twenty-five
to forty feet high, having an esplanade on the inside, and pathways
leading to the ramparts on three sides. That part of the city within
the walls is about six miles in circumference; and its whole circuit,
including the suburbs, is ten miles. The streets are narrow, and well
paved with stone. Both the land and water population, as computed by
the most reliable data, is about 1,000,000.”[22]
The chair-Coolies of Canton are said to be among the best in China.
They are very strong, and from much practice acquire a carriage which
gives a delightfully equal motion to the chair. They doubtless have
learned this from being obliged to carry their own people with care;
for if a disagreeable motion is given to the chair of a Chinese
gentleman, or lady, the bearer will be sure to receive a reprimand.
These men being remarkably fleet of foot, pass rapidly over the ground,
and seem to prefer a brisk dog-trot pace to a fast walk. They usually
wear a sandal made of strong grass, and with a gait peculiarly their
own, touch the pavement with a nervously strong and firm tread.
Several of the American Missionaries live in the suburb called _Sun
Sha_, which is nearly opposite the south gate of the city, and
occupying houses that front on the river, they have the benefit
of the refreshing summer breeze. The hospital connected with the
Mission--which was formerly in the charge of Dr. Parker--is also
located there, and is now under the management of Dr. Kerr. A Mission
station, and a branch of this hospital, have also been established
at Fatshan,--a town on the river, ten or fifteen miles west of
Canton,--where the silk fabrics, matting, and most of the other
articles exported from Canton are manufactured. This hospital is also
under Dr. Kerr’s care, who devotes a certain portion of his time in
personal attention to the patients. We were indebted to the kind
politeness of this gentleman--who speaks the language, and is familiar
with the temples, as well as other places of interest--for most of the
enjoyment of our first excursion in looking after the “lions” of Old
Canton.
One morning early in March, taking sedan-chairs, with Dr. Kerr in
advance, we left the Missionary quarters, and traversing several
narrow streets,--among which was that occupied by the butchers and
bakers,--finally entered a comparatively broad and quiet street in the
New City, where the residences of the Chinese officials were situated.
This brought us to the _Wan-shau-kung_, or Imperial Presence Hall,
where, three days before, and three days after the Emperor’s birthday,
the high officials and people come to drink tea, and pay adoration to
his Majesty.
The dragon,--that never-failing insignia of rank and grandeur in
China,--together with the royal color, yellow, were conspicuous in all
the embellishments of the establishment. This is the only building
in Canton that is roofed with yellow tile. Here a large tablet is
erected to the Emperor, upon which the expression,--“The Emperor of
ten thousand years; ten thousand times ten thousand years,” are traced
in Chinese characters. The characters for “ten thousand years” also
appear upon some of the pillars sustaining the presence-chamber, and
upon every panel of the low stone fence enclosing the temple. These
expressions are doubtless designed to teach the people that their
Emperor is an infinite superior,--a sort of deity, and an object worthy
of adoration. Guarding the people’s entrance to this temple were two
rampant lions--frightful burlesques--sculptured in stone. Our bearers
threaded the narrow and crowded streets with perfect ease. The confused
bustle, however, together with the noise of our own chair-Coolies,
calling out “_Lai! Lai!_” or, clear the way, combined with that of the
hundreds of other Chinamen, who in one unbroken stream were passing and
repassing us, was in some degree fearful, and well-nigh deafening.
As we passed on in the midst of these surroundings, we finally entered
one of the gates of the Old City, and threading a long street occupied
by stone-cutters, reached a Confucian temple, sacred to the Goddess
of Literature. The idols of this temple consist of simple tablets
dedicated to Confucius, and other sages. Highly ornamented ones, also,
of very large size, and brilliantly painted,--having been presented
to the temple by different emperors,--were suspended above those of
the sages. No tablets of the latter,--not even that of Confucius,--can
receive equal honor and adoration with that of the Emperor. At each
side of these, on tables or small altars, were arranged smaller tablets
of the disciples of Confucius. The handsome roof of this temple--which
had the appearance of being groined--was painted in a dark rich brown
and deep red, reminding us of the fretted Gothic style.
The entrance to the Temple of Mars--which we next visited--was guarded
by fierce-looking lions; and being in mourning for the Emperor, Heen
Fung, then recently deceased, was draped with white. The floor was
also covered with white calico. Here, when the Emperor dies, the high
officials and military men repair; and for three days--bowing and
prostrating themselves before an empty throne--mourn and bewail the
dead. An appointed _groaner_ leads in these wails and prostrations; and
when the mourners have assumed the attitude of humble grief, a signal
is given, and the yellow silk curtains in front of the throne being
drawn around them, they are left to their sorrow.
Leaving the Temple of Mars, we were carried through several streets
to the southwestern part of the town, where the principal college
is located. This institution is called the _Kung Yuen_, or Hall of
Literary Examination. Students from the different districts of the
province come here for examination, previous to taking their second
literary degree.[23] The establishment is extensive, and has a large,
open space, in which are eight thousand cells, or low compartments,
built of brick, where the candidates for literary honors are confined
while writing their essays. A student on entering his cell is only
allowed to take with him his writing materials and cooking utensils,
and is carefully examined to prevent his secreting any book or
manuscript about his person. These cells are only about five feet
in length, by three or four in width; being built in parallel rows,
and so arranged as to form narrow passages between. The entrance
to each passage is guarded by a small dragon gate, upon which the
name is traced in Chinese characters. The examination hall, and
other apartments fitted up for the use of the examining committees
and official visitors, are ornamented with blue, red, and yellow.
On the long and spacious avenue leading from the street there are
three gates, each opening into a temple; the further one, conducting
directly to the cells, being peculiar both in structure and ornament,
as well as lofty and imposing. The place was much injured at the
bombardment of the city by the Allies, the cells for the students being
at that time destroyed. They have, however, been rebuilt, and the
whole establishment thoroughly repaired, so that it was in very good
condition at the time of our visit.
When going to the eastern gate of the city we traversed a portion of
the fine military road that skirts a part of the north wall. It is
macadamized, and was made by the English, on their first occupation of
the place, for the more convenient carriage of supplies of food and
ammunition to the troops stationed on the heights at the north part of
the town. In order to have a ready communication between these heights
and the city, there was also a line of telegraph wires put up along the
course of this road. The houses in Canton are built close to the walls;
therefore, in making such a road, many of the citizens were compelled
to have their houses removed or torn down. The deep and lofty arch
of the great eastern gate is built with outside bastions, and has a
double gateway. A sort of citadel, in the pagoda style of architecture,
is also built upon the massive walls directly over the arch. At the
time of our visit this citadel was occupied by a small number of
Chinese troops, who, under an officer called a “leader of sixty,” were
stationed there as a guard. From the upper story of this citadel there
is an extensive view of the city, its suburbs, and the surrounding
country.
The Chinese name of the street extending from the east to the west
gate, and passing through the heart of the city, is, when rendered
into English, the “Street of Benevolence and Love.” By the foreigners,
however, it is called East and West Street. As a striking instance
of the “westward march” of the Chinese mind, we observed, in passing
through this street, an advertisement of Dr. Jayne’s medicines posted
in a conspicuous place near a tablet of the sage Confucius. In this
part of the town we visited a Confucian temple, which, _malgré_ its
Chinese architecture and ornament, was really beautiful. It belonged
to the _literati_ of the district or county, and was an educational
establishment or college, where students take their first literary
degree.[24] The buildings are of granite, having ornate roofs covered
with highly glazed green tile.
Near one of the city prisons we met a deplorable-looking prisoner,
who, chained and led by his keeper, presented a fitting introductory
scene to the Temple of Horrors, which we were about to enter. The
open space fronting this temple was mostly occupied by the stalls of
fortune-tellers, gamblers, dealers in incense-paper, beggars, and
crowds of Chinese. In fact, the appearance of the outer court was too
much like Pandemonium to admit of a very close inspection, and I found
myself oppressed with a sensation of fear as my chair was borne through
it. I therefore merely took a hurried glance at the interior of the
apartments where the different tortures of hell were represented. These
were too cruelly shocking, and too painfully suggestive of Dante’s
“Inferno,” to allow of any description. Apartments a little off from
these were devoted to idols, before whom the poor, besotted people were
bowing in worship.
Our transition from this temple of horrid spectacles to the _Yamun_, or
residence of the Imperial Treasurer of the province, was delightfully
refreshing. The avenue leading to this place was bordered with ancient
banians, and in a large park deer were grazing. The grounds, besides
having pretty flower-gardens, were ornamented with arches, rock-work,
and little fancy buildings. Large sculptured lions, of fierce aspect,
stood guard at the outer gate; but the roar of the Chinese lion has
proved itself as deficient in power, as these representations were
defective in truthfully delineating that animal, and we found the
French flag floating above them. The place, although falling to decay,
was like an extensive villa in the heart of a walled city. It was
taken from the Chinese when the Allies entered Canton, and, as “might
makes right,” in accordance with the demands of the French Government,
it fell into their hands. At the time of our visit it was occupied
by Baron Trenqualye, a French official, who, in the very tranquil
enjoyment of the poor treasurer’s usurped abode, was taking his
_siesta_ when we sent in our cards.[25]
At a temple called the Pavilion of the Fire Genii, our attention
was directed to the print of a man’s foot in a rock, which, by the
Buddhists, is called Buddha’s Foot. The Chinese consider this temple
one of the most remarkable “lions” of the city; but we had already seen
so many gilded images that the fantastically arrayed genii of this
pavilion made but little impression upon us.
In alighting from our chair at the Mohammedan mosque,--which is nothing
more than a plain temple,--we were immediately surrounded and pressed
upon by a motley crowd of men, women, and children. The greater part of
them were miserable beggars, and as some were suffering from disease,
as well as poverty, their near neighborhood was not only disagreeable,
but fearful. Giving a hurried glance, therefore, at the interior of
the building, we returned to our chairs, and were borne to the Tartar
portion of the city. There, happy and cheerful-looking women came to
the doors, and smiling, bowed as we passed. The ears of these Tartar
women were pierced in three places, and from every puncture little
hoops of gold or silver wire were pendant.
There is no place in the world where a crowd collects in a shorter time
than in the streets of Canton; and a woman from the West, when looking
after the “lions” of the city, seems to be regarded with quite as much
interest as a whole menagerie of wild animals. Whether at a shop or at
a temple, we were immediately followed by a great crowd, so that it
was not only difficult, but exceedingly disagreeable to move about. At
one of the Confucian temples the students, or _literati_, occupying it
were so eager and curious to see the European woman write her pencilled
notes, that some of them drew near and looked over my shoulder. A
woman educated to write was a _rara avis_ to these civil and scholarly
followers of the wise Confucius. Laughing, however, and chatting very
agreeably with Dr. Kerr, they seemed to regard such an encroachment
upon the sphere, which is almost entirely monopolized by their sex
in China, very good-naturedly. Sometimes, when being carried along
the street, I found it difficult to suppress a smile as the natives,
with staring eyes and mouths agape, peered and gazed at me through the
windows of my chair, or, stretching their necks, essayed to look in at
the door.
I can never forget my first Sunday in Canton, nor with what painful
sadness I passed through the busy streets of the suburbs of Honam, when
on our way to attend service at the English Chapel. It was pitiful to
see the poor shopkeepers, artisans, and laborers toiling and pursuing
their avocations as usual. The streets were filled with the same
restless, noisy, and jostling crowd. There were the open shops, and the
money-changers sitting at the corners of the business thoroughfares,
with piles of copper cash before them. It was a most melancholy
reflection that the people had no Sunday, and knew nothing of its
peaceful and soothing influence.
It is hardly possible to realize the sad condition of heathen people
until one has lived among them. Perhaps this total ignorance and
disregard of the Sabbath, and also of everything growing out of a
Christian civilization, when witnessed among a people like the Chinese,
who, besides being in a great measure civilized and educated, are much
advanced in a knowledge of the arts, and also in the polite amenities
of life, is more prolific of grievous thoughts than when met with among
the untutored savage tribes. The people, however, were well aware that
the day was sacred to the Christian; and a few--among whom I observed
some of the better class of Chinese--were gathered in little groups at
the corner of a street on which the chapel was situated, where they
watched the gathering of the congregation with evident interest.
The marriage processions--which are common in the streets of
Canton--are usually more curious than imposing. They consist of a
display of highly ornamented and gilded sedan-chairs, which are
occupied by the bride, her friends, and also by her _trousseau_ and
presents. These are preceded by a band of music, and followed in the
rear by a number of men and boys wearing short red robes, and carrying
red boxes that contain the marriage feast. If the parties are of high
rank, there is a long procession of people carrying honorary tablets,
flags, fancy lanterns, umbrellas, and various other articles. We,
however, were not fortunate enough to meet any of this class.[26]
Most of the business streets, both of the old and new city, have their
specialties. Besides the streets of the butchers and bakers, we passed
through several devoted to the dealers in fruits and vegetables, the
street of the stone-cutters, a long street occupied by the workers in
iron and brass, and also one made up entirely of cabinet-makers. The
shops of the latter are large, and in many of them we observed that
the mechanics were sawing and preparing their lumber with hand-saws.
In Southern China, where there are neither horses nor machinery to
aid the people in their labors, it is surprising to observe with what
comparative ease and skill they perform their work. A street of old
clothes and second-hand furniture shops, is called, by the foreigners,
the Chatham Street of Canton. Itinerant tailors, cobblers, and barbers
are found, in every part of the city, plying their trades by the
wayside.
Groups of squalid beggars, intent upon the destruction of the animated
nature that infests their miserable garments, are seen crouching at
every vacant spot along the streets, and near the temples of both the
city and its suburbs. Sadly diseased people, also,--some of whom were
suffering from leprosy,--we frequently met near the temples. These, and
kindred scenes, together with the vile odors often encountered, make
many parts of the city the most disagreeably disgusting places in the
world.
Chinese officials are regarded with great deference by the people; and
foreigners also, who are in the service of the Imperial Government, are
treated with much respect. In visiting the places of interest in the
western suburbs, I was escorted by Mr. G---- and Mr. W----, both of
whom belonged to the latter class, and consequently we did not suffer
the usual annoyance from street crowds. Although Mr. G---- --who has,
in another place, been spoken of as Imperial Commissioner of Customs
at Canton--was in some measure acquainted with the language, a Chinese
linguist also accompanied us, and going sometimes in advance to clear
the way, caused a general stampede of all idlers, and prevented any
disagreeable gathering of the people at the places where we stopped.
The gentry of Canton live in the western suburbs, and many of their
residences are on Howqua Street, which is one of the widest and
cleanest in the city. The private residences--which are built of a gray
brick, with walls twenty-five or thirty feet in height--are situated
directly on the street, their fronts presenting no opening except
the door. Many of them cover a large surface,--stretching far along
the street,--and are so constructed as to appear like a series of
small buildings, each of which terminates in an angle or recess. To
form these angles, the wall, which begins plumb to the street-line,
gradually recedes until it reaches a point of perhaps not more than one
or two feet back of its commencement, when it turns, and making a right
angle, is built straight back to the street line; another turn is then
made, and the wall is again carried in the same receding line as at
first; and in this manner the work is continued until the front wall of
the mansion is completed. The Chinese--who are always propitiating some
evil power, or malign influence--believe that these angles will prevent
the escape of “good luck” from the street, and thus shield themselves
and their families from misfortune.
Howqua and Pun-Tingqua--two well-known Chinese gentlemen of influence
and wealth--have their private residences on Howqua Street. The
walls of their dwellings are built like those just described; and
judging from the great extent of front occupied by Pun-Tingqua, his
establishment must be very extensive.
On our way to the western suburbs we passed a large stall at the corner
of one of the streets, where nothing but dog-meat was sold. That
animal, which we observed carefully skinned and dressed, was suspended
and exposed for sale like a lamb at one of our butcher’s shops.
A few streets further on brought us to the cat-market, where the mewing
creatures, well fatted and exhibited in cages, were being purchased
for the table. We had always been rather sceptical in regard to the
assertion that dogs and cats were used as food by the “celestials;” but
having this ocular proof of the fact our incredulity vanished.
FOOTNOTES:
[21] Dr. Williams’s _Middle Kingdom_, Vol. i. p. 130.
[22] Dr. Williams.
[23] This institution is usually called by foreigners the “Provincial
College.”
[24] Called the “District College.”
[25] A street in this neighborhood, entirely occupied by the shops
of booksellers, is called Book Street. Here are met the students and
_literati_, who, like the cultivated and learned men of other lands,
are fond of looking after, and gossiping about, whatever is new and
wonderful in their world of letters.
[26] The respectable Chinese, after having taken a wife according to
the prescribed forms, do not go through the marriage formalities with
another woman during the lifetime of the first. A man, however, may
introduce concubines into his family without any other ceremony than a
contract with their parents; but they and their children are not only
subject to the will of the wife, but serve her.
CHAPTER IX.
Many of the Buddhist temples are very ancient and wealthy
establishments. Although ancestral worship is the chief idolatry of
the masses in China, the Buddhists, by incorporating this superstition
into their own heathen rites have gained almost unlimited power over
the people. What makes this fact the more remarkable is, that, aside
from this worship of Manes, the Chinese are said to care but little
for the Buddhist faith, or for their temples. Only the priests and
nuns, however, are called Buddhists,--the first of which are very
numerous, and have great influence among all classes. Dr. Williams
remarks that “the demonology of the Buddhists allows the incorporation
of the deities and spirits of other religions; and goes even further,
in permitting the priests to worship the gods of other pantheons,
so that they could adapt themselves to the popular superstitions of
the countries they went to, and engraft all the foreign spirits into
theirs.” We had an exemplification of the truth of this at the Temple
of the “Five Hundred Gods,” which was one of the most remarkable places
that we visited in the western suburbs. The entrance to this temple
was guarded by soldiers, but we were readily admitted, and passing on,
were led to a veranda bordering the refectory, where the bonzes were at
their mid-day meal. Leaving this apartment and entering the cloister,
we made our way through several long passages, until we reached the
great hall containing the gods.
The eye of the visitor, on entering this hall, is first greeted by two
gigantic gilded wooden images elevated on high pedestals, and placed
one on each side of the door. They are fat and jolly in appearance,
and, sitting in a half reclining posture, are playing with little
children. The merrily genial and gay physiognomy of one of them
reminded us of Hackett’s Falstaff, and his laughing face was quite as
irresistible. Merry little children, in all kinds of baby attitudes,
were sitting upon his knees, and also standing upon his feet and
arms, or climbing upon his shoulders. Some of them were pointing,
or pulling at his hair, eyes, and mouth; seemingly intent, in every
conceivable manner, upon getting all the fun they could out of the old
fellow, who appeared to be the happiest,--not of gods,--but mortals.
To be childless is regarded by the Chinese as the greatest of all
misfortunes; and these gods were doubtless intended to set forth the
happiness of a parent. This large apartment was nearly filled with
images, all of which were not only well kept, but as brilliant as gilt,
paint, and bronze could make them. They were placed on shelves eight
or ten feet in height, and arranged in a sitting posture, facing each
other, with long passages between. They were represented in a variety
of attitudes,--often with uplifted arms,--while some had six or eight
arms, and one we observed with five eyes. Beyond these rows of idols,
seated under a rich canopy, were large images of the Past, Present, and
Future Buddha; and a little in front, in a sitting posture, there was
a statue of Kien-lung, the Emperor, whom Lord Amherst saw at Peking.
He was here represented gorgeous in gilt and paint, and arrayed in his
royal robes. This temple contains representations of nearly, if not
all, the heathen deities of the East, and painfully impresses one with
a sense of the moral darkness and gross superstition of the people. It
deserves to be called the Pantheon of Canton.
The abbots of the Buddhist monasteries are not often seen, and
rarely honor visitors with any particular civility. At the Temple of
Longevity, however, the names of the gentlemen of our party being sent
in, the abbot made his appearance in the reception-room, and treated
us with distinguished attention. This room was furnished with chairs
and sundry little tables, and opened upon a lovely garden, well
supplied with trees, shrubs, and plants, and otherwise beautified with
little artificial ponds, zigzag bridges, cascades, grottoes, and other
rock-work. The space occupied by it was small; but we were assured that
it was the handsomest garden in the city. A cup of tea of exquisite
flavor, together with some delicious dried and confectioned fruits were
served; while the abbot--who was a man of gentle address and quiet
manners--condescended to join us in our repast, while, at the same
time, he held some conversation with Mr. G----.
One of the idols of this temple was a gigantic reclining image of
Noah, who, with dimpled cheeks and laughing eyes, may perhaps have
been intended to represent a happy old age. Beyond this, in a dimly
lighted place, were three large, dusky, and neglected looking images,
representing the men, or superhuman beings, who, as the Chinese say,
held up the ark at the time of the Deluge.
The largest Buddhist temple in Canton--as well as one of the oldest
and most noted in China--is the _Hai-chwang-sz_, usually called by
foreigners the Honam Joss House. It is situated near the river in the
suburb of Honam; and the grounds, which contain several acres, are
surrounded by a wall. The courts of the temple--as well as the avenue
leading from the outer gate--are shaded with hoary banians, and the
air is resonant with the cawing of the numerous rooks which have
their nests in the wide-spreading branches. In order to be present at
Vespers, we visited this temple at five o’clock in the evening, and,
landing from our boat, entered the enclosure at the outer gateway,
which opens on the street bordering the river. Traversing the gravelled
walk to the high portico,--which is guarded by two frightful looking
demons,--and passing through a small enclosure to a porch containing
four great statues, we were conducted to the main temple, which is a
low building, about one hundred feet square,--in the centre of which
there are seated images of the Past, Present, and Future Buddha. These
were more than twenty feet in height, and were surrounded by altars and
smaller idols.
The evening worship had just commenced as we reached the door of this
grand presence-chamber. Here we found a large number of priests,--some
in full canonicals,--who were marching in single file around the
idols, and chanting in a drawling and nasal tone of voice their
idolatrous invocations, accompanied by a sort of drum, tom-toms, and
the occasional ringing of a bell. The officiating priests were arrayed
in yellow, but most of the rest were in flowing gray robes. We observed
one who had not performed the _tonsure_ in a long time, and whose
clothing was also old and much patched; but we afterwards learned that
an old garb and an unshaven head were the perscribed mourning of the
Buddhist monasteries. Towards the close of the worship, a few at a
time, on passing before the idols, stepped out of the ranks and fell on
their knees before them, until finally all were prostrate. The priest
playing the tom-tom knelt upon a low stool, and bowed himself close at
the base of the centre idol; but the increased vigor with which he used
the instrument, together with the beating of the drum and the ringing
of the bell, rendered it impossible to hear the chanting. Finally, in
the midst of this noise, bowing themselves three times, and touching
their foreheads each time to the floor, they all performed the _kotau_,
and thus ended their adorations.
Although the bonzes, with clasped hands and downcast eyes, assumed the
most devout attitudes, and chanted their vespers in most imploring
accents, still many of them were more intent upon looking at their
visitors, and appeared to be more interested in them than in their
evening orisons. Nor could we observe any appearance of real solemnity
in the officiating priests, who, on rising from their knees, and while
taking off their yellow robes and other trappings, fell right merrily
to chatting and laughing. Most of the invocation consisted of a
repetition of the words, “_Omito fuh_,” (_Amida Buddha_,) or, “Buddha,
have mercy upon us;” which reminded us of the words of our Saviour.
(Matt. vi. 7.)
In another building beyond the grand presence-chamber of Buddha, a
marble monument is erected to the Goddess of Mercy, in which there
is said to be a relic of Buddha.[27] A twisted pagoda-like shaft
surmounts a pedestal of extraordinary massiveness, upon which the
goddess is sculptured. We were told by one of the priests that this
monument--which is more like the workmanship of India than China--was
brought from Siam. Tablets, commemorative of those who have given
to the temple, are set up at various points in the cloisters of all
the monasteries dedicated to the worship of Buddha. Tablets, also,
containing apothegms from Confucius, are set into the walls bordering
this cloister; and here may be seen the “sacred hogs,” which, having
been presented as offerings by some of the worshippers, have an
apartment appropriated to them, where they are kept and cared for as
long as they live.
After death the remains of the priests are disposed of by cremation.
The bodies are burned in a little stone-building, put up expressly for
this purpose in the cemetery which adjoins the garden. In a line with
the arched doorway of this building there is a grave-like excavation
of about a foot in depth, where the fire is made; and an iron grate to
receive the body is placed two or three feet above it. Small orifices
in the back wall, together with the doorway, answer for the escape of
the smoke; and the blackened wall and roof, directly over the arch,
gave evidence that the building had been much used. The ashes of the
dead having been deposited in earthen jars, are placed in another small
building within the grounds; and if not taken by relatives, after
a reasonable length of time, to be buried among their kindred, are
finally interred in the cemetery.
In visiting the Buddhist temples, we observed that the ground and
buildings, with all their belongings, were kept in remarkably neat
order; which, together with their ample arrangements for tropical
comfort, made them invitingly cool retreats. The idolatrous worship
at this temple, together with the sickening accessories met with at
the place of burial, were profoundly saddening; and we could not
but wonder how any American or European reared within the pale of
Protestant Christendom could, after witnessing such scenes, be at all
at loss as to the Christian’s duty in sustaining foreign missions in
China. Although the light of Divine truth has as yet illumined but
comparatively few heathen hearts in that land, still its teachings are
slowly but surely bringing forth fruit, and the way is gradually being
prepared for the full reception of the Gospel. No Christian, even with
the most limited knowledge of the heathen character, can be personally
conversant with the American and European mission stations in Southern
China, without being surprised at what has already been accomplished.
Among the different denominations of Christians in heathen lands
sectarianism is happily forgotten; and the delightful fraternization,
which is a distinguishing feature of their little communities, savors
of the true Gospel spirit.
The English Methodist missionaries at Canton have a large chapel and
very comfortable dwellings, which were erected out of a fund bequeathed
to the Church expressly for this purpose by some friends in England.
From what we could learn, there is also a generous provision made for
them by the society under whose patronage they are sent out. As to the
American missions, we have frequently heard our countrymen in China
remark that the salaries allowed them were not sufficient for their
support, and that, consequently, they were obliged to economize more
closely than was conducive either to health or comfort in such an
exhausting climate. They are, however, too heartily engaged in their
noble work ever to complain; and are always cheerfully contented, and
happy to make any sacrifice in their Master’s service.
While living at Whampoa my attention was attracted one morning by
hearing the voices of children singing Sunday-school hymns. At first I
doubted whether I might not be mistaken, for it seemed incredible that
the sweet tones of so many childish voices could ever be heard, amid
our heathenish surroundings, singing the same notes that are set to
the little hymns found in the “Sabbath Bell,” and other Sunday-school
hymn-books. I was, however, soon relieved from my perplexity by the
entrance of Mr. W----, from whom I learned that the singing proceeded
from a Hong-boat, in which were Mr. and Mrs. Bonney,[28] together
with the boys belonging to the school of the former. After they had
visited the Bethel “chop,” we had the pleasure of seeing them moored
at our side, and entering the boat, heard the boys sing more of those
agreeable home-strains, with which our ears had been so unexpectedly
greeted. The hymns were the same that we had heard sung by the “little
ones at home;” but when translated into the Chinese language, and sung
in that far-off land by those boys of benighted parents, they were
all the more sweet and touching. An American gentleman,--a resident
of Canton,--having recently visited the school, proposed this holiday
excursion, and paid the expenses of the trip. It was a remarkable
affair for the little fellows, whose thorough enjoyment, together with
the high degree of gratification which their happiness gave Mr. Bonney,
must have more than repaid our countryman for his kind and thoughtful
generosity.
Mrs. Bonney has also a school composed of twelve or fourteen Chinese
girls, most of whom have touching little histories. One of them,
who is now capable of assisting in caring for the younger girls,
was originally sold for ten dollars, to be a servant-maid. She was
redeemed, however, by an English lady, and given to Mrs. Bonney to
educate. Another had been cast out from her home into the street
on account of a lameness caused by cruel treatment, which had
incapacitated her from doing much house-work. There was one, also,
who had been sold by a wretchedly poor father for _five dollars_, but
was redeemed by a Chinese woman, who had placed her with Mrs. Bonney
for eight years. And still another, from Macao, whose mother--a poor
widow--had wished to sell her for thirty dollars, but Mrs. Bonney would
not permit it.
The names of these girls were very significant on being translated
into English:--such as Miss _Wealth_, Miss _Summer_, Miss _Have_,
Miss _Thoughtful_, &c. Mrs. Bonney keeps a Chinese female assistant,
and the girls (who are taught in their own language) receive a useful
and Christian education. In addition to their daily studies, they are
also thoroughly instructed in the use of the needle and other womanly
employments. Some of these children are supported by religious and
benevolent women at home; and I could wish that many more of our
countrywomen might be induced to become the patrons of this interesting
and important branch of the missionary work. The other Mission schools,
under the care of both American and English missionaries in Canton, are
also assisting to advance the cause of Christian education, but I did
not become as conversant with them as with the schools of Mr. and Mrs.
Bonney.
To the Chinese nothing is more awe-inspiring, august, and powerful
than their fabulous animal, the _lung_, or dragon. This is doubtless
principally owing to the fact of its being adopted as the Imperial
coat-of-arms; although, even aside from this, it is said to be more
or less superstitiously regarded by all classes, and is peculiarly
feared and worshipped by both boatmen and fishermen, who consider
it the ruling spirit of the waters. A festival to propitiate this
divinity--or demon of the ocean and rivers--is observed for five days,
in the month of May, and is called the “Feast of the Dragon-boats.”
The chief feature in this festival is the racing of the Dragon-boats
belonging to the different villages. These boats are about one hundred
feet in length by only thirty-two inches in width, terminating in a
point at either end. They are brilliantly painted, and have their
bows ornamented with dragons. Each boat is bedecked with flags
and gay streamers, and contains sixty or eighty men, who, sitting
quietly, paddle their craft to the time produced by the rude music
of gongs, drums, and the jingling of copper pans; the boats, when
under full headway, being in appearance not unlike huge centipedes
in motion. While witnessing these races on the Pearl River, both at
Whampoa and Canton, I observed that the time of the music and the
speed of the boats were always _pari passu_. A man standing near the
helm was constantly waving a fancy flag; while two men, who played a
drum elevated in the middle of the boat, led the band. As the speed
of the boat and the din of the music culminated, the excitement of
the musicians exhibited itself in various antics and gestures. In
consequence of the very slight construction of these boats many lives
are sometimes lost by their breaking in two.
The private gardens of Howqua and Pun-Tingqua--located a mile or two
up the river from Canton--are much visited by foreigners. Both are
enclosed by high walls; and although the garden of Howqua is not as
well kept as formerly, it has spacious walks, pretty sheets of water,
fine trees and plants, and altogether must have been a charming place
when the avenues, ornamented buildings, and little bridges were in
good order. We found the garden of Pun-Tingqua, on the contrary, not
only well kept, but in a state of further improvement. One of the
first things which strikes the eye on entering this garden is the
handsomely covered walk bordering the walls. The grounds, however, are
everywhere intersected with pleasant walks,--one of which, separating
two artificial ponds, is bordered with fir-trees of a beautifully
delicate foliage. A large house, standing within this garden, is the
summer retreat of Pun-Tingqua’s family, and the private theatre of
that gentleman is also in the same building. These extensive grounds
included every variety of ornament usually found in Chinese gardens.
There were pretty kiosks, grottoes, and fancy bridges, besides a
handsome pagoda of three stories, from the upper windows of which the
_coup d’œil_ of the whole was charmingly picturesque.
The _Fa-ti_, or Flower-gardens,--from which foreigners at Canton
are supplied with the pots of rare plants that always adorn their
verandas,--are also situated on the river above the city. In these
gardens we observed some very lofty palms, and there was also a
superabundance of other trees and shrubs, which seemed to be growing
in all the wild exuberance of nature. Here, and also at the garden of
Pun-Tingqua, a lovely orchid, called “the nun,” was in blossom. In
addition to the dwarfed trees and shrubs found in every Chinese garden,
both at the Fa-ti and at the garden of Howqua, we noticed a small
shrub, of a close, full, and delicate foliage, trimmed so as to form
flower-baskets of elegant patterns. Animals, also, were delineated in
the same manner, among which we observed many accurate representations
of dogs and miniature giraffes.
Most of the shops in Canton are so constructed that their fronts can
be removed during the day, thus giving the passer-by a good view of
the interior. At one side of the entrance there is usually a little
shrine containing some tablet or image, where incense is burned every
day to supplicate a lucrative business. At some of the more wealthy
and handsome shops, shrines, fancifully ornamented, are set up within
the establishment, and these are not unfrequently embellished with
vases of flowers. The Chinese--who have a superstitious notion that
the blossoming of the peach-tree, at the time of their New-Year
festival, betokens good luck and prosperity for the coming year--have
a way of forcing that tree to bloom for the occasion. When making my
first visit to Canton, I was shown, at the shop of Hoaching,--of whom
I shall have more to say when speaking of shopkeepers,--a large branch
of a peach-tree, which, having passed through the forcing process, was
brilliant with flowers.
The shops at which foreigners make their purchases of china, lacquered
ware, and articles carved in ivory and black-wood, are in the New City
and its environs. A Chinaman is exceedingly clever at a bargain, and
being quite as fond of money as an Anglo-Saxon, is no less quick to
note and take advantage of every opportunity that may offer to increase
his gains. During the occupation of Canton by the Allies, the artisans
and dealers found their wares in such great demand by the foreign
officers and others that there was a general rise in the old prices;
and as these still continued at their advanced rates, many of the most
desirable articles were more expensive than formerly,--fine china-ware,
at the time of our visit, being nearly as costly as the French article
was in New York before the war. Besides this, many of the china-ware
manufactories in the interior have been destroyed by the rebels, and
it is more difficult for the dealers in Canton to obtain their usual
supplies. Indeed, some articles formerly found at the shops are now not
to be procured at all; and this has doubtless tended, more or less,
to increase the price of all articles. A very curious, but handsome
ware, called “open-work-china,” was formerly made in the northern part
of the Kwang-tung province,--of which Canton is the chief city. The
rebels, however, have overrun and laid waste the country; and those
who understood manufacturing this ware having passed away, the art is
now said to be lost. This china is greatly in request, but is rarely
found for sale. We saw only a few pieces of it, and these belonged to
foreigners, who preserved them as curiosities.
Ushing’s is a fine and extensive shop in the New City, where elegant
china-ware,--comprising articles of every description,--and also
furniture of curious, as well as beautiful patterns, elaborately carved
in black-wood, are kept for sale. The prices of the most desirable
articles range at very high figures; but they are so rare, and not
unfrequently so superbly beautiful, that the shop is much patronized
by wealthy foreigners. The patrons of this establishment are waited
upon with much politeness; being usually met, on passing from the
ante-room into the shop, by the portly Ushing himself, who, handsomely
dressed in silk fabrics, approaches his customers, and, in spite of his
obesity, greets them with sundry profound bows while leading them to
the side and upper apartments, where there is a tempting display of his
wares. Another shop much frequented by foreigners is kept by Pohing,
who deals entirely in china, and has many beautiful things at less
prices than Ushing. Pohing, however, is a noisy, curt, and blustering
man, without the smooth polish and _savoir-vivre_ that distinguishes
Ushing,--his chief recommendation being, that those who possess purses
of only a moderate depth can obtain many of the same kind of articles,
and of as good quality, of him, as can be procured at Ushing’s, and on
far more reasonable terms.
The matchless skill displayed by Chinese artists in the workmanship of
ivory is well known, and the exquisite minuteness of their carvings
in that material is unrivalled. Hoaching--whose shop in the suburbs
of Honam is filled with beautiful carved work in ivory, sandal-wood,
and shell--is said to excel all others in the artistic finish of his
articles. Foreign visitors to this shop always find something rare
and curious to study. Once when there our attention was directed to
some remarkable ornaments elegantly carved from the skull of a bird
belonging to the egret species. It is a native of Cochin-China. We were
shown the head of one from which pieces had been cut for carving. The
bone, which is of a very fine and ivory-like texture, admits of being
carved into the most minute representations of flowers and foliage,
as well as of temples and people. It is of a delicate, but peculiarly
rich, orange color, sometimes slightly veined with red; and the
ornaments, when handsomely set in gold, are superbly unique.
The wealthy Chinese have a passion for fine carvings. We were shown,
at Hoaching’s, a superb piece in ivory, which had been ordered by a
Chinese gentleman at the cost of five hundred dollars. It was a mass
of elaborate and exquisite carvings, representing men, animals, birds,
and scenery. The article itself was of a peculiar design, and, from
what we could learn, was intended to ornament the shrine of a household
god, or, perhaps, the ancestral hall. Temples--and their never-failing
adjuncts, the sacred banians--embellish most of these carvings, and the
latter are remarkably well given.
The cultivated Chinese greatly admire antiques, and highly value an old
piece of curious china, an antique bronze, or a rare carving. It is
said that no city in the empire has more of the antique, the rare, the
curious, and the grotesque, to interest a foreigner, than Canton,--the
shops of Curio Street, in the New City, being mostly occupied by
dealers in such articles. Some of these shops are large, and well
filled with articles of rare and handsome workmanship. At any of them
one can soon invest a thousand dollars in elegant pieces of furniture,
rich carvings, and other valuable works of _vertu_ and art. Many of the
articles in bronze, however, are too ugly or too disagreeably grotesque
to tempt a foreigner. The studio of the noted painter, Lamqua, and the
shop of “Old Siqua,”--whose lacquered ware is considered the finest
in Canton,--are also in the Honam suburbs. Lamqua is an artist of
much talent; and having profited by the instruction of Chinery,--the
Anglo-Eastern artist already mentioned,--his pictures are free from the
gross inaccuracies in perspective, and many other points that usually
mar the sketches and paintings of his countrymen. He is noted for his
fine fruit-pieces, and I also observed in his studio some very good
pictures of foreigners. His finely painted miniatures, copied from
photographs, and done on ivory, are also excellent.
The Chinese women are very fond of ornaments made of the
“jade-stone.”[29] Vases, also, and other fancy articles manufactured
from it, are highly prized, and sold to the wealthy at fabulous prices.
A daily market expressly for the sale of this article, which is located
in the western suburbs, is regulated by certain laws, one of which
requires it to be closed at twelve in the morning.
Judging from the extent of the street occupied by the artificers in
fans, and the infinite variety of that article exposed everywhere for
sale, China is very properly called the “land of fans.” No people,
however, need them more; and nearly every city manufactures its own
style of the article; hence there are Peking fans, Canton and Swatow
fans, besides many others. Those, however, that are made at Suchau,--a
city situated on the Yellow River, in the province of Kiangsu,--being
either very tastefully and delicately painted, or elegantly finished in
black and gold, are much in request. In fact, at one time these fans
were so much the mode among the higher classes of the Chinese, that,
for one to say that his fan was from Suchau, made the same impression
as for us to speak of an article imported from Paris. Suchau is also
noted for its dark, bronze-colored, lacquered ware, prettily ornamented
with etchings of birds, trees, and flowers, the outlines of which are
touched or finished in gilt. The rebels, however, have nearly destroyed
the city, and both the Suchau fans and lacquered ware having become
scarce,--except at some of the shops on Curio Street, where they
command a very high price,--they are now rarely met with.
Canton is said to rank next to Peking in wealth, and no one can visit
either the New, or the Old City without being impressed with the
opulent appearance of a great portion of the people; for although
beggars of the poorest and most wretched class are met everywhere, many
of the streets are thronged with Chinese gentlemen, who, walking or
in chairs, are arrayed in garbs of the most expensive silks. A large
number of streets are also lined with spacious and handsome shops,
which are filled with the richest fabrics of the East. In passing
through some of these streets the extensive view afforded in either
direction, with the moving crowds, brilliant signs, and other gorgeous
adornments, is very picturesque, and to a traveller from the Occident
has an air of enchantment about it, which is almost a realization of
the tales of the Genii of old.
FOOTNOTES:
[27] Said to be one of his toe-nails.
[28] Missionaries of the American Board at Canton.
[29] An imitation of jade, or serpentine, of a vitreous composition
between glass and porcelain, and of a cloudy-green color, is
manufactured into ornaments that are much worn by the lower classes.
CHAPTER X.
All classes of women in China pay much attention to the cultivation
and arrangement of the hair, and often display much taste in their
picturesque styles of wearing and ornamenting it. In some of the
Northern provinces the women of every class are at all times seen
with beautiful flowers in their hair; but at Canton, and at the South
generally, we observed that this tasteful fashion was confined to the
ladies. Among the flowers used to ornament the hair of the few Chinese
ladies we met at Canton, the rose was conspicuous, and we learned that
it was as great a favorite among the Chinese as it is with us. There
are twenty native species of the rose in China, besides a good many
varieties, and it is very extensively cultivated.
The women very seriously injure their skin by the free use of
cosmetics. A Chinese lady, when making her toilette for any grand
occasion, blackens her eyebrows so as to form an arch; and after making
a free use of white paint upon her face, finishes by deeply rouging
her cheeks and lips. To avoid tottering, the women of small feet step
quickly, and swing their arms in order to keep their equilibrium. At
the same time they have a mincing gait, peculiarly their own, which
is doubtless considered very elegant; as I frequently observed that
the large-footed, but smartly dressed, women of the common classes
endeavored to imitate it.
A descendant, and the representative of the noted hong merchant,
Mingqua, of Canton, was, with one exception, the only Chinese gentleman
we met who could speak English with fluency, and some degree of
correctness. He is a man of very _suave_ and courtly address, which,
combined with elaborate manners, make up a gentleman well suited to his
Oriental style, and in fine keeping with his character and conversation.
For several years before the Allies obliged the Chinese to open the
gates of the Old City of Canton to foreigners, the wife of Mingqua
occasionally received and returned the visits of some of the foreign
ladies then residing at the old factories. The wife of Howqua also
occasionally received such visits; but at that time the opportunities
of coming in contact with the Chinese ladies were not common, nor have
they become so since. On the contrary, the inner apartments, (as the
rooms occupied by the women of a Chinese family of rank are called)
are guarded as carefully as ever; and up to this time a woman from
the West, when invited to enter their tabooed precincts, receives a
distinguished favor. Mingqua, however, on account of his knowledge of
our language, and from his having had a great deal of intercourse with
foreigners, has in some respects become an exception to this rule.
Seeming not to dislike our modes, but to rather approve of ladies
having more liberty than they are allowed in China, he not only invites
foreign ladies to visit his family, but, as will be seen, occasionally
permits the gentlemen accompanying them to see the women of the
household. He had frequently expressed a wish that I should visit the
ladies of his family; therefore at our last visit to Canton,--notes and
cards having been exchanged, and all the forms, according to Chinese
etiquette, being complied with,--at the appointed time we took chairs
and proceeded to his residence.
In making this visit, (besides being attended by Mr. G---- and Mr.
W----,) we were accompanied by an English gentleman,--who was also
in the employ of the Imperial Customs. To this gentleman--who was a
Chinese scholar--I was indebted for the translation of a note from
Mingqua, in which the latter, after the fashion of Orientals, affects
great humility, and in language of the most extravagant hyperbole,
speaks of my visiting at his “humble abode.” This note was written
upon paper of an India-pink tint, and the elegant card accompanying
it was also of the same color, being over nine inches in length by
four in width. Mingqua’s humility, however, was not of a character to
induce him to live anywhere but in the western suburbs; therefore we
not only found his residence in Howqua Street, but in the aristocratic
and wealthy neighborhood of Pun-Tingqua, and Howqua. A few people were
gathered in the street, near the great doorway, when we arrived; but
as our coming had been expected, the portal was directly opened, when
we passed quickly through the porch to a little court, where we were
welcomed by Mingqua with elegant politeness, and then led with Oriental
ease and grace to a reception-room in the rear of the court. This
room communicated with the inner apartments by two doors, near which
the women and children of the household were congregated to receive
us. Their dresses were of some dark material, and very simple and
unpretending in style; although the faces of the ladies showed the free
use of white paint, while their cheeks and lips were deeply rouged.
Their hair was also elegantly arranged, and tastefully ornamented with
flowers.
The gentlemen of our party--who had expected that I alone would be
admitted into the presence of the ladies--were both surprised and
gratified with the arrangement which Mingqua had made, in order to
allow them to see the whole of the family; and although his disposing
of them in this manner prevented my visiting the inner apartments, the
fact of a Chinese admitting foreign gentlemen to the presence of his
women was so unlooked-for and agreeable to my escort that I was soon
oblivious of disappointment. A slight entertainment, consisting of
candied fruits, sweetmeats, and cakes, was already waiting on a little
table in the reception-room when we entered; and soon after we had
been presented to the family, tea was brought in and served with these
refreshments.
Fearing to appear too inquisitive, we did not ask any questions in
reference to the daughters of the family; and no allusion being made to
them, we presumed that Mingqua, like all his countrymen, regarded them
of but little consequence. On the contrary, presenting his sons in due
form, he first introduced the eldest, who, being a young gentleman,
spoke English very well, and was not unlike his father in the elegance
and polish of his manners. We were the most interested, however, in the
youngest,--a fine, bright lad of only six years,--whom Mingqua said
he desired to send to England, or America, to be educated. The higher
classes of Chinese who are not exposed to the sun are whiter than
those in the common walks of life; and this boy having a remarkably
fair complexion, one of our party remarked to his father,--“Why,
Mingqua, this is a fine little fellow, and has a remarkably fair
complexion.” The father evidently pleased with the compliment, giving
one of his courtly bows, replied,--“Yes, high-born always whiter.” The
house was exceedingly plain and simple in all its appointments; but
we were informed that, in consequence of some business difficulties,
Mingqua affected a parsimonious style of living, and it was therefore
difficult to pronounce upon his true condition.
Chinese etiquette does not permit them to shake each other’s hands;
on the contrary, politely bowing when they meet, they shake their own
while clasping them before them. Mingqua, however, in his intercourse
with foreigners, adopts our mode of greeting; and on our taking leave
the ladies, holding out their little hands in a very polite manner to
me, made their adieus, Western fashion.
When about taking our leave, Mingqua informed us that his cousin,
living only a few doors from him, wished us to make a call at his
house. Being aware that the well-bred Chinese regard any breach of
etiquette as an unpardonable offence, and fearing that by making
so unceremonious a visit we might compromise ourselves in their
estimation, we hesitated. The gentlemen, however, learning from Mingqua
that his cousin,--who was a wealthy member of the Pun family, and
belonged to the class of Mandarins,--having been aware that we were
about to leave Canton, had already arranged the matter of etiquette in
such a way that it would be _comme il faut_ for us to go there at once,
we gladly assented. This Chinese gentleman had at one time filled the
office of Taou-tai, at the North, whence, after amassing a handsome
fortune, he returned to Canton, and built a splendid mansion on Howqua
Street, which is said to be the finest residence in the western suburbs.
A servant having been despatched to apprise the Taou-tai of our coming,
accompanied by Mingqua we were again in our chairs, and following
our _avant courier_. The spacious portal of the Taou-tai’s residence
opening on our approach, we were conveyed through a fine large porch,
into an inner court. Beautiful lanterns were hanging in the porch,
and the guardians of the household, in the shape of two brilliantly
ornamented images, stood one on each side of the door leading into the
court. Leaving our chairs, we were met at a door entrance, connecting
with one of the apartments of the house, by the Taou-tai himself,
who, without raising his eyes[30] towards me, bowed, and waving his
hand, without a word, and almost without volition, I moved on in the
direction indicated, to a door that opened apparently without aid
from any one, and which, as I passed through it, closed in the same
unaccountable manner. The spacious porch, the inner court, and the
apartment where the Taou-tai first received us, being in construction,
arrangement, and ornament very much superior to anything I had seen,
my surprise and admiration increased at every step until I reached the
rooms occupied by the ladies. But these Inner Apartments--as they are
termed--as far exceeded the rest of the house, in the superb brilliancy
and beauty of their adornments, as the finest china in Ushing’s shop,
in the elegance of its design and painting, surpasses the common and
cheap article which is sold at the little stands by the way-side.
Recovering a little from the maze into which the peculiarity of
my position and the fairy-like appearance of its surroundings had
thrown me, I perceived a middle-aged lady, handsomely dressed in dark
material, standing on a dais at the further end of the room; who, as I
looked towards her, directly bowed, and with a quiet dignity, shaking
her hands before her, greeted me with the Chinese salutation--“Tsing!
Tsing!”--i. e. Hail! Hail! Drawing near, I also bowed while saluting
her in the same manner; but with the exception of these words of
salutation, and a few simple phrases, I knew nothing of the language,
and our intercourse was consequently continued in pantomime. This
lady led me through a door opening back of the dais into another
apartment, at the further end of which there was again another dais,
with a broad passage leading from it to the rooms beyond. On each side
of this passage tasteful boudoirs led to richly furnished bedrooms,
near which we observed two very pretty and elegantly dressed young
women standing one on each side of the entrance. They were leaning in
graceful attitudes against the corners of the boudoirs, and as both
continued to bow and repeat their salutations during our approach,
in order to return them properly I was obliged to advance bowing and
shaking my hands, first to one and then to the other, until we reached
and ascended the dais. They then led me into one of the boudoirs,
where, standing a little back of a table, on which was lying their
embroidery, chairs were placed, and I was motioned to be seated. The
middle-aged lady,--who evidently occupied a position of honor in the
household,--took the chair next to mine, while the two younger ladies
stood, one on our right and the other on our left, during the whole
interview. With their small feet this must have been fatiguing to them,
but if etiquette demanded it they were obliged to endure the discomfort
without complaining. They were in costumes of rich silk fabrics
ornamented in gay colors, and their hair was elaborately arranged and
dressed with flowers. They also wore elegant ornaments of gold and
precious stones, and had their cheeks and lips rouged; their gentle and
lady-like manners, as well as their entire demeanor, being of that cast
which belongs only to the most delicate refinement. We were scarcely
seated when not only the room was filled, but there was also a group
about the door of the apartment, and I soon found myself not only a
curiosity to the ladies and children, but also to the servants, which
last stood in the outer circle, and were very respectable-looking women
and girls.
Tea having been brought in by a sprightly and laughing serving-woman,
one of the young ladies receiving the cup designed for me, and
observing that the tea was very hot, lifted the delicate china cover,
and fanning the steaming liquid until it was cooled, proceeded, with
inimitable ease and grace, to hold the cup to my lips while I drank the
beverage. This ceremony being over, my dress was next closely inspected
and commented upon by the whole group; while, amid smiles and an
occasional merry laugh, we carried on a pantomimic conversation, which
afforded infinite amusement to all. My bonnet, with its trimmings,
attracted particular attention, but a delicate _mouchoir_ was their
especial delight. The ladies then displayed their beautiful embroidery,
which was done in silk floss, and fastened in the same sort of frames
as those used by us.
The furniture of the boudoir, and bedroom leading out of it, was of
black wood, ornamented with carvings. The bedroom was small, but
the bedstead was a massive piece of furniture, elaborately carved,
with a highly ornamental tester, from which hung mosquito-curtains
of green silk gauze. In addition to the rooms through which I was
first conducted, I was shown several brilliant apartments, and an
open court finished in the same style, which contained a variety of
beautiful plants in bloom. The partitions of the rooms were of fanciful
lattice-work, and were painted in delicate shades of stone-color, and
brilliantly ornamented in gilt, with red, blue, and different shades of
green. Every room was supplied with little stands of curious design,
upon which were beautiful porcelain vases and jars, while screens and
other ornamental articles completed the furniture. There were also a
variety of beautiful Chinese lanterns suspended from the ceilings, and
some of the rooms were provided with handsome European chandeliers.
The latticed partitions with their embellishments, the ornamental
furniture, and the general arrangement of the whole, as seen in the
soft radiance admitted through the skylight, had an air of superb
elegance. Each room, however, was a gem of itself, and of so unique a
character that the place was invested with an Arabian Night-like charm.
Finally, on taking leave, my middle-aged friend politely accompanied me
to the door at which I entered, and I once more joined the gentlemen of
our party, who, not having been as highly entertained, were becoming a
little impatient for my return. Having made our formal adieus to the
Taou-tai and the courteous Mingqua, we then took our departure, greatly
pleased and gratified with this our first peep at high life in China.
These visits were made on Saturday, and while at Mingqua’s house he
politely invited me to dine with the ladies of his family on the Monday
following. Having, however, not forgotten our visit to the dog and
cat market, and also not having any assurance that the better classes
of the people were not fond of cat meat, but rather the reverse, I
felicitated myself on being able to say that we intended to leave
for the North on that day, and could not accept the invitation. The
excellent tea, together with the delicious sweetmeats and candied
fruits which are served when on visits of ceremony among this people,
are always acceptable and agreeable entertainments; but when it comes
to the question of a formal dinner, it is not quite so pleasant to
fancy the possibility of being served to a cat ragout or a dish of
kitten cutlet! A ceremonious dinner would have greatly gratified
our curiosity, and doubtless given us some further insight into the
secluded mode of life led by the Chinese ladies; but in view of these
considerations we felt little regret in being obliged to decline
Mingqua’s polite invitation.
FOOTNOTE:
[30] According to Chinese etiquette it is very impolite, if not highly
indecorous for a gentleman to look at a lady. The Taou-tai, therefore,
treated me with marked respect.
CHAPTER XI.
Mr. W---- having been ordered by the Chinese Government to remove to
Swatow, a seaport one hundred and eighty miles north of Hong Kong, our
“chop”-life drew rapidly to a close, and one morning early in the month
of June, 1862, we found ourselves _en route_ for our new home, and once
more on board the American steamer _Spark_, bound for Macao.
A few weeks previous to this time some Chinese pirates had taken
passage at Hong Kong on board a small English steamer bound for Macao,
and while on their way thither, in attempting to take the vessel, had
killed one of the officers, besides injuring some of the passengers.
In consequence of this, we found the large crowd of Chinese passengers
on board the steamer properly secured below. There was also a small
force of well-armed Malays, who not only guarded that part of the boat,
but were also stationed at other exposed points, giving to the little
vessel quite a warlike appearance. Each officer had one of Colt’s
revolvers in his belt, and the foreign passengers were also armed;
so that, although sailing under our own flag, we felt that we were
not altogether among friends. The number of European passengers was,
however, larger than usual, and in case of any difficulty, they would
of themselves have constituted a very efficient force. In view of all
this, and being at the same time aware that the Chinese pirates seldom
attack foreigners unless they are greatly off their guard, we went on
board with no real solicitude in reference to our safety.
We had sailed on quietly for several hours, and had made the
Kumsing-moon Passage,--which, together with the neighboring islands,
was formerly fearfully infested with pirates,--when, in consequence
of an accident happening to our machinery, we were compelled to lie
to and anchor for several hours. Soon after the vessel had stopped,
Mr. Perry,--our Consul at Canton, and Mr. G----, both of whom were
passengers,--discovered that the boat was on fire. At about the same
time, and before the extent of the fire could be ascertained, a number
of Chinese boats were seen to be bearing down upon us. We then began
to fear that our engineers and firemen,--who were Chinamen,--might be
in collusion with these boatmen, and that they possibly intended to
take and plunder the vessel, in which case they would also capture
the foreign passengers, and (as is their custom) keep us in durance
until they received an exorbitant ransom. After the fire was subdued,
it was two or three hours before we could get up steam sufficient to
proceed on our voyage; but as soon as there was any likelihood of our
doing so the native boats disappeared. This accident occurred just as
it was announced to the passengers that _tiffin_ was ready; and to
Mr. Perry--who refused to go below to partake of it, until he could
learn the nature and extent of the difficulty--we were providentially
indebted for our safety. If there was any compact between the Chinese
employées and the boatmen, it was thought that some signal must have
been given the latter, indicating that there were too many armed
foreigners and Malays on board to admit of their meeting with any
success. In fine, whatever may have been the true state of the case, we
learned, after reaching Macao, that we had strangely escaped the danger
of steam as well as fire; it being then discovered that the boilers of
our vessel had been so much burned as to be ruined, and that we had
been mercifully preserved not only from apparent but from real perils.
Macao is exceedingly attractive in winter; but in June and the early
part of July, when its gardens and lovely environs are brilliant with
flowering trees, shrubs, and plants, it is one of the most charming
places in the world. Few settlements in the East have as great a
variety of shrubs and trees, for many of which the colony is indebted
to the East India Company, who adorned their gardens and grounds with
the finest that could be procured in India, and the various islands
of the East. The beautiful nym--called the Pride of India--is here
seen growing in the Government Park; and the gardens of the foreign
residents are beautified with a variety of flowering trees, among which
are the _Bauhinia_, _Poinciania_ and _Lagerstrœmias_. The delicate,
crape-like flowers of the latter are almost unequalled, and, as an
ornamental tree, it has few compeers. Among the flowering plants,
several species of hibiscus, the magnolia, plumoria, oleander, and
jasmine flourish in great profusion; while of creeping plants, the
_Quisqualis Regina_--which was in bloom--exceeded in elegance all the
flowering vines we had seen in the East. The lotus, also, with its
delicately tinted flowers, and the regal blossoms of the night-blooming
cereus,--_Cereus grandiflora_,--both flowering in July, delighted us
with their resplendent beauty.
The deliciously soft atmosphere of the bright evenings in early summer,
at Macao, is unrivalled; and every one goes forth to enjoy “the quiet
and the beauty of the scene.” The native Portuguese ladies--who
rarely venture out in winter--then saunter in little groups along
the beautiful Praya Grande, or, seated on the green (the Alameda)
which adjoins it, may be observed quietly listening to the music of
the military band. The whole circuit of the settlement is only eight
miles, and yet there is a great variety of interesting points in the
scenery,--the suburbs affording many charming walks besides that of
the Praya. Among these, the finest and most desirable for enjoying
the refreshing summer breezes, is the winding road which passes over
the high ridge of cliffs that face the sea. This road--which skirts,
in a part of its course, the finely curved shore of Cacilha Bay--is
called the _Estrada de Cacilhas_. The pandanus, or screw-pine, grows
in wild luxuriance at various points along its border, and the gullies
that seam the steep hills around which it winds afford a variety
of beautiful ferns. There are, also, at the more elevated points
of this road fine sea views, where the air is always delightfully
invigorating. The _Estrada_ is therefore the favorite promenade of
invalids, and foreigners generally, who, if they manage to exist
through the exhausting heat of the tropical summer, may here be
seen at evening in large numbers walking, or being borne around the
cliffs in their sedan-chairs. The precipitous and rocky formation
near the shore of this part of the peninsula, together with the old
fortifications crowning the elevations which rise abruptly beyond, give
the settlement, when approached from the sea, a formidable and ancient
appearance.
In Macao--as in all communities under Roman Catholic rule--the
festivals of that Church are celebrated with much display, and, being
under the patronage of the Government, are very generally observed
by the people. One of these festivals is known as Corpus Christi
Day, on which occasion we witnessed the elevation of the host,--the
procession being composed of the bishop, the high officials of the
colony, with several orders of priests in their different habits,
proved a most imposing pageant. The consecrated wafer was carried
by the bishop,--assisted by some of the high dignitaries of the
Church,--over whom a satin canopy was upheld by the first civilians of
the colony. The procession, with its chanting priests, having issued
from the Cathedral, marched through the streets amid the firing of
salutes from the guns of the Guia fortress; the military, who were
drawn up near where it was to pass, falling on their knees while their
canopied bishop moved by, and the band, also,--although continuing to
play,--assuming the same posture of adoration.
Hundreds of poor Chinamen were gathered to witness this august
spectacle, most of whom were doubtless unable to perceive any
difference between prostrating one’s-self before the host, or before
their ancestral tablets and the gods of Buddha. It was a sad sight,
and the more so, as these Romish priests and their people are looked
upon by the Chinese as representatives of Christianity. Such displays,
however, are well calculated not only to attract and gain the hearts
of the Portuguese and the mixed races of the colony, but also those of
many of the Chinese.
A small company, composed of the soldiers garrisoning the forts,
constitute a military dancing troupe, who, at the festival of St.
John, hold a sort of carnival which lasts through several evenings,
and is thought by the Portuguese to add greatly to the festivities of
the occasion. As this festival occurs in the month of June, we had an
opportunity of witnessing some of these evening entertainments.
The whole troupe maintain, under all circumstances, a strict silence,
and are called the “Mummers.” Accompanied by a ludicrously dressed
harlequin, who directs the dancers and their changes by blowing a
whistle, it is customary for them first to visit the governor and
other high officials of the colony, where, upon the verandas, or in
front of their residences, they perform beautiful fancy dances,
which frequently terminate in fine tableaux. At every place a sum of
money is given them, which is appropriated to a charity established
expressly for the benefit of their regiment. The dancers are arrayed
in fancy costumes, and preceded by musicians, who are also accompanied
by men clad in antique armor. When marching through the streets by
torch-light, they present quite an imposing as well as picturesque
appearance, and their dances seem to have a fascinating influence which
attracts all classes. To make a dancing troupe, however, an accessory
to a Church festival, is, to one unused to any but a purely Protestant
atmosphere, strangely out of place.
A handsome _fête_, or _soirée musicale_, commemorative of our national
anniversary, was given at our consulate in Macao, on the evening of
July Fourth, 1862. This proved to be the event of the season, and
being detained until after it took place, we were happily among the
invited guests. Mr. Nye’s spacious mansion is situated in the heart
of the city, two or three rods back from the street,--its grounds
forming a little park in the rear, and the whole enclosed by a wall
which in front is twelve or fifteen feet in height. With the exception
of the gateway, the entire face of this part of the wall and the
columns ornamenting it were covered with the foliage and flowers
of the _quisqualis_. On approaching the grounds, the evening of the
_fête_, the first thing that attracted our attention was the display
of hundreds of brilliant lights forming eight stars, which were
arranged with charming effect against the dark green foliage on the
walls, and illuminated the street, where a large crowd of Chinese, as
well as Portuguese, had already been attracted to admire the scene.
The Portuguese military band were playing our national airs as our
sedan-chairs passed into the compound. From this a stately entrance led
into a hall, and ascending a handsome staircase which conducted to the
family apartments, we found ourselves in a small ante-room, furnished
with a well-filled black-wood bookcase, an arrangement for hats and
coats, and a few classical engravings. Here the band was stationed,
and from this we entered another saloon situated in the middle of
the mansion, which was furnished in fine taste, and contained some
European and Chinese articles of _vertu_ and art. Passing through this
saloon,--upon the left side of which was the ladies dressing-room,
and on the right the supper-room,--we entered the chief drawing-room,
on either side of which, and leading out of it, a handsome room was
also thrown open, making a suite of three, extending the entire
length of the house. The concert was to be given in the centre room,
where a grand action-piano had been placed for the occasion; but the
arrangement of this apartment being purely classical, it only contained
a few pieces of rare furniture, and some ornamental works of art. Its
walls, however, were decorated with fine old paintings and engravings;
and the rooms leading out of it--although simple and tasteful in
arrangement--were furnished with large centre-tables of elegant
workmanship, upon which were placed immense bouquets composed of superb
tropical flowers. These were arranged by the Baroness Circal,--the wife
of the Brazilian Consul,--who presented them to Mr. Nye, as an offering
to his national festival. They were in porcelain vases of beautiful
design, and were standing on mats made of Berlin wools done in our
national colors.
Arched doorways and windows led from this suite of apartments into
a spacious veranda about eighty feet in length by fifteen in width,
and built the whole extent of the mansion. It was covered with a high
arched roof, and enclosed with glass windows which were shaded with
Venetian blinds. In the evening, however, both the windows and the
blinds were removed, leaving only the high arches and pillars between.
From this veranda a door led to an open terrace, which looked down upon
a lawn beautified with flowering trees and shrubs, and leading to a
little park containing a few deer. To the right was a flower garden,
and to the left a large tank, in which were luxuriant lotus plants
in full bloom. The terrace, which was simply covered with mats, was
enclosed with a brick parapet three feet in height, the top of which
was gay with pots of flowering plants. The arched windows and doorways
leading from the veranda into the drawing-rooms were ornamented with
wreaths of dark myrtle tastefully interspersed with delicate flowers,
among which the _quisqualis_ was prominent,--its lovely pendant
fascicles contrasting with the rich shining green of the myrtle with
distinguished effect. The dark and richly polished timbers running
across the veranda, just under the curve of the roof, as well as the
arched windows opening upon the terrace, were also decorated with
garlands, and an elegant basket of exquisite flowers was suspended from
the centre of each arch. At one end of the veranda the American flag
was so draped as to form a background of stars for a large portrait
of General Washington, which adorned the centre of the arch, and was
the most conspicuous object at the _fête_. At the other end the “Stars
and Stripes” together with the flags of Portugal, England and Brazil,
were tastefully draped together, while the national colors of Portugal
and Spain were prettily arranged just above the centre arches which
led out upon the terrace. These, as well as various other national
flags used in adorning the veranda, were embellished with chaplets
of myrtle and flowers. Nothing could exceed the elegance of these
decorations, nor the fine taste displayed in all the arrangements of
the brilliantly lighted apartments. Twenty-six stars, which were also
disposed among the trees about the grounds so as to have their dark
foliage for a background, made, with those that illuminated the front
wall, thirty-four, and showed conclusively the loyal sentiments of our
Consul.
The Governor of the colony was absent at Peking, but all the other
officials, and the Portuguese army officers, together with the foreign
Consuls, were present, in full court-dress. The Baron Circal--who takes
his title from the little town of Circal, in Portugal--was also present
in full regalia, with a diamond star of the first magnitude making a
brilliant display upon his left shoulder.
The Portuguese ladies, although elaborately arrayed and showing a
decided taste for gay and striking colors as well as for ornaments,
were in what a Portuguese writer, in describing the festival, called
“simple toilettes.” The stateliness of both the men and women bordered
frequently upon stiffness, and although some of the former were
able to converse a little in English, the ladies knew nothing of the
language. In fact, one rarely meets in Macao with a Portuguese lady
who speaks English. Among the gentlemen there was a superabundance
of goldlace and bright buttons, and, as at all entertainments given
by foreigners in the East, they greatly outnumbered the ladies. The
concert, which lasted until twelve o’clock, was performed by French and
Italian artists from Hong Kong, and the music, consisting chiefly of
selections from popular operas, was delightful. At the close of this
musical entertainment, being requested to step out upon the terrace,
we found the twenty-six stars--which were arranged among the trees,
and during the evening had only been partially illuminated--beaming
in full refulgence. Before we had more than cast a glance at this
resplendent scene we were surprised at hearing distant martial music,
and soon the military dancing troupe, accompanied by torch-bearers,
was seen marching under the shadow of the trees that bordered the
walk on the other side of the grounds. On reaching the lawn near the
terrace, the musicians struck up a contra-dance, which being performed
by that picturesque company amid the brilliant light of so many burning
stars, and in a spot so charming, was quite enchanting. This agreeable
surprise added more to the entertainment because it was so unexpected,
and was a source of great enjoyment. As the troupe left the grounds,
and while the band in the small saloon were playing our national
airs, we were handed to the supper-room. The table was brilliant with
flowers, whose superb arrangement, in connection with the display of
fruits seen peeping out from beneath buds and blossoms, evinced much
delicacy of taste and gratified one’s relish for the beautiful, while
the elegant supper, refreshing the inner man, prepared the gayer
portion of the company for the amusement that was to follow.
Directly after supper the veranda was cleared for dancing, and the
spacious apartment being occupied throughout its entire extent, the
_coup d’œil_ of the long vista was very beautiful. Indeed the tasteful
decorations of the room, together with the showy toilettes of the
ladies, and the bright buttons and epaulettes of the gentlemen,
produced a scene of rare splendor, and the few Americans present
entered into the spirit of the festival with grateful alacrity. The
fact that our country was in affliction only made us the more anxious
to be known as loyal citizens of the Federal Government; therefore
the toilettes of our countrywomen were slightly embellished with our
national colors, while the gentlemen wore badges combining the same
hues. After supper, some small photographs, taken from the portrait
of Washington, which hung in the veranda, were distributed among the
ladies, and gave much satisfaction. A French naval officer among the
guests having also received one of these little pictures, remarked
to me, with evident satisfaction,--“I, too, have one picture of Mr.
Washington!”
In a description of this entertainment, which was written in Portuguese
by the Secretary of the Colonial Government and appeared in the
Government paper, there occurs the following passage in regard to this
happy idea of our Consul:--
“Not willing to omit the smallest point of etiquette,--notwithstanding
the picture of the great Washington was seen resting on the ensign of
the United States, to preside over the feast, which was proceeding with
great spirit,--still Mr. Nye offered a photograph of the hero to each
of the ladies.”
Being gathered to celebrate the natal day of our nation at a time
when a melancholy war was raging at home, the conversation naturally
turned upon its condition and prospects, and the probable result of
the rebellion. We have a pleasant and grateful remembrance of our
intercourse with the English friends whose acquaintance we made in the
East, and no one can more admire the social life of a well-bred and
cultivated English family than we do. No people are more delightful,
and no hospitality can be more charming; yet, with few exceptions,
the English people met with abroad know so little of the true spirit,
character and condition of the United States, and consequently have
such vague, and not unfrequently monstrous ideas of our institutions
and government, that when one discovers the reason for their erroneous
opinions, it is vastly more amusing than annoying to hear them express
their views in regard to our final destiny. It is therefore the better
way, when brought into contact with this class of our cousins, to be
quietly reticent; leaving them to learn, as they finally must, that
being of their own stock, and not having any taint of the convict
element which we fear flows in the veins of some of the Southern
rebels, (whose States were originally penal colonies,) we not only
can contend stoutly for a principle, but will also fight for it as
patiently, persistently, and bravely, as they do.
CHAPTER XII.
After several weeks of genial quiet and enjoyment in the somewhat
dilapidated, although still stately old settlement of Macao,--whose
soft and balmy summer atmosphere first taught us to understand and
take pleasure in the fascinating _dolce far niente_ of the South,--we
proceeded to Hong Kong, and while there, as the guests of our friend,
Mr. P----, of the house of Olyphant & Co., were the recipients of that
lordly and charming hospitality which one meets with among most of the
polished and cultivated foreign residents in China.
The colony of Hong Kong is not favorably situated to receive the full
influences of the cool southwest monsoon of the summer months, and the
extremely warm weather which prevailed at this time produced the most
intense tropical languor. After a brief stay, however, the 23d of July
found us on board the English coasting steamer _Undine_, _in transitu_
to our new home in Swatow, at which place we arrived the next day.
Swatow--which is one of the five ports that a few years ago were thrown
open by treaties to foreign trade--is situated on the river Han,[31]
which is navigable for vessels of a light draft for some distance.
There is also a spacious harbor at its mouth, with sufficient water to
float ships of large tonnage. The river has several branches, which
intersect a populous and fertile region of country, throughout which
are scattered villages and large cities, as well as walled towns. In
fact, it is said that no district in China presents greater natural
advantages for agriculture and commerce than that in the neighborhood
of this port.
Double Island--which is the residence of foreigners--is situated a
little off the mouth of the river, being about a mile distant from the
main land, and five miles from the native town of Swatow. The area of
land upon this island is small, a brisk walker being able to accomplish
its entire circuit in half an hour without inconvenience. Standing high
out of the water, it has two conspicuous and verdant hills, situated,
the one at the northern and the other at its southern extremity. These
hills overlook the two entrances to the harbor, and upon one of them
are still to be seen the ruins of a native fort which once guarded
the chief passage. The settlement, which faces the harbor, is built
in the valley between; and most of it is so situated under the lee
of the high ground as to be sheltered from the worst effects of the
terrible typhoons which occasionally visit this region. The climate is
very salubrious, and the island is considered one of the most healthy
places for Europeans on the coast. Situated quite out into the sea,
the inhabitants enjoy the cooling influence of the southwest monsoon
through the summer, at which time invalids visiting the place receive
much benefit from the pure and bracing sea-air. In fact, we were
informed that at one time there had been some talk of establishing upon
the island a _sanatarium_ for invalids, and that the scheme was favored
by one of the best medical men in Hong Kong.
Notwithstanding the fine sea-air at this place, the heat of the summer,
which is of long continuance, is very exhausting to all foreigners; and
here--as everywhere else in Southern China--the more temperate October
days are welcomed with pleasure. The very warm weather, however, does
not commence quite as early in the season as it does at Canton and
Whampoa; but as we were at the South until midsummer, we did not have
the mercury below eighty degrees from April until the 8th of October,
and for by far the greater portion of that time it was some degrees
higher.
There being no low lands nor rice-fields upon Double Island,
mosquitoes--which are the greatest of all plagues in the south of
China--are not numerous. It is only necessary, however, to live in
Canton or Macao for a short time, in order fully to appreciate the
blessing of being freed from the venomous assaults of this insect.
While living upon the water at Whampoa we were seldom troubled with
them, but when at Canton, if we chanced to have our beds shielded by
defective mosquito-curtains, the night was fearfully woful, and the
noise of their shrill trumpets, together with their stinging attacks,
not only dispelled sleep, but destroyed all comfort and repose. The
species of this insect met there is _sui generis_, and being striped on
the back something like a tiger, has been by some very appropriately
called the “tiger mosquito.” The drapery of my sleeping-room at Macao
was so infested with these hatefully irritating creatures that the
moment I disturbed any part of it they swarmed forth in great numbers.
Indeed, even during the day, we frequently suffered such depredations
from these bloodthirsty tormentors, that, with the mercury ranging
as high as eighty or ninety degrees, it was exceedingly difficult to
sit quietly or patiently at any employment. We therefore, on reaching
Double Island, felicitated ourselves upon being freed from this, the
most intolerably keen annoyance that we met with while living in the
East. Even the frightful centipede is not so much to be dreaded, for he
always seeks the darkness, and instinctively shuns the presence of man.
The name of this island--which was conferred upon it by Europeans--is
derived from its shape, which appears double when seen from the east
or west. It has also three very significant Chinese names: viz.,
_Fung-shan_, _Fang-ke-shan_, and _Ma-seu_, or _Ma-soo_. We are indebted
to a member of the English Consulate at Swatow--who understands the
Chinese language--for the following interesting explanation of these
names. “_Fung-shan_,” he writes, “may be translated Phœnix Island,--it
being understood that the imaginary supernatural bird of the Chinese,
which we call the ‘Phœnix,’ does not correspond with the Phœnix of
western legends. The island gets this name from its shape;--the
light-house promontory on the east representing the head of the bird,
and the main part of the island stretching north and south, the
outspread wings. The Chinese, with their geomantic notions, attaching
a real importance to this, believe that the light-house erected on
the head of the Phœnix has brought bad fortune to the port, in the
shape of typhoons[32] and divers other calamities. The word _shan_,
in _Fung-shan_, may be translated island. Its proper meaning, however,
is hill, or mountain, although it often occurs in the names of hilly
islands.
“_Ma-seu_, or _Ma-soo_, is the most common name among the Chinese, and
is not unknown among foreigners. It means the island of Ma-tsoo, the
name of a Buddhist goddess, or saint, who has a temple here, which at
times is much resorted to. She is a sort of sailors’ goddess, much
worshipped by them and others, especially in the provinces of Fuh-kien
and Kwang-tung. She was a native, it is said, of Chin-chew, or that
neighborhood, in Fuh-kien,--and is sometimes called the ‘Holy Mother,’
‘Queen of Heaven,’ but is not to be confounded with the Goddess of
Mercy, _Kwan-yin_, whose worship is much more widely diffused all over
China, and beyond it, and whose rank is considered higher.
“_Fang-ke-shan_ may be translated--‘the island where fowls are let go.’
I am told that some time ago, when there were no residents here but the
people of the temple, live fowls used to be presented at the temple of
Ma-tsoo, and then let go on the island, and that rice was given by the
junk-people for the food of the fowls. It is also said that people did
not dare to steal and eat them, and that any one who did so would get
the stomach-ache.”
The Buddhist temples in China are--as we have already seen--placed
in the most picturesque situations, and frequently command views of
the most charming scenery. This is also the case with the small but
elaborately ornamented temple of Ma-tsoo, which is shaded with huge old
banians, and located in one of the pleasantest spots on the island.
A festival in honor of this goddess--which lasts five days--is held
in September of each year, and is attended by crowds of people, who
at that time flock to the island from the villages and cities on the
main-land, in order to make offerings to their favorite deity. It is
the custom of these people to blend various kinds of amusements with
their devotions, which, to one so unfortunate as to be within hearing
distance, are chiefly characterized by a most heathenish racket. At
all of these festivals itinerant theatricals constitute a favorite
source of amusement; and at Double Island the temporary theatre--which
is always constructed of bamboo-poles and covered with matting--was
frequently erected disagreeably near to some of the foreign residences.
In September, 1862, one was set up so near our house, that, with the
intense heat of the season and the noise of the performers, together
with the clangor of their musical (?) instruments, we nearly went mad.
The performances--which were continued every evening until an hour or
two after twelve o’clock--“made night hideous.” The actors were arrayed
in rich satin robes, elaborately embroidered, and, judging from the sea
of upturned faces[33] that surrounded the place, the plays must have
deeply interested the spectators.
Previous to 1860 there were but very few foreigners living at Swatow.
During that year, however, a Mission station, under the auspices of the
American Baptist Board, was established at Double Island by the Rev.
Mr. Johnson. At that time there were no religious services held on the
island, and the natives knew nothing of the Christian religion, or of
any of its observances. Under these discouraging circumstances,--which
might well-nigh have appalled the most hopeful,--Mr. Johnson purchased
a billiard-room,--which was the only place that could then be procured
for a chapel,--and at once commenced holding Divine service on Sunday
evenings for the benefit of the foreign community. Since that time
the building has been converted into a neat little chapel, which is
appropriately fitted up, and generally well attended by persons who
are grateful for its privileges. Such missionaries as Mr. and Mrs.
Johnson are a blessing to all classes of people among whom they may
be placed; and one on the spot can readily see in how many different
ways the influence and teachings of this mission have tended to improve
the natives, as well as to make the place more home-like to Europeans.
While I remained at the island Mr. Johnson’s house was the favorite
gathering place of all the foreigners in the settlement; and the ladies
looked to Mrs. Johnson for advice and aid in every emergency.
The house in which we were to live not being ready for occupation until
a fortnight after our arrival at Double Island, and during that time
being members of Mr. Johnson’s family, I saw something of the workings
of the mission, and became much interested in Mrs. Johnson’s school
of Chinese girls. Mr. Johnson was missionary at Hong Kong for several
years previous to establishing himself at Swatow, and some of the girls
composing Mrs. Johnson’s school while there, being originally from the
neighborhood of Double Island, accompanied them on their removal to
that place. Some of those who early became Christians have now attained
to womanhood, and, still retaining the integrity of their religious
profession, are not only leading exemplary lives, but are also making
themselves useful to their people. One of them is now the chief native
assistant in Mrs. Johnson’s school. When we left Swatow this school
numbered eleven boarding pupils, besides five or six day scholars; and
a letter received from Mrs. Johnson, since my return to the United
States, informs me that six of these pupils have recently become
Christians. From what we learned of the influence of this school, not
only upon the girls, but also upon the families with which they were
connected, we were more than ever convinced that a practical Christian
education given to the young, and particularly to the daughters,
who, among the Chinese, are rarely taught to read, must in time
contribute much towards Christianizing the people. This school--with
which I became more familiar than with any other in China--is said
to be managed in a wise and very judicious manner. Like that of Mrs.
Bonny’s at Canton, the girls are frequently _protegés_ of benevolent
and religious women in the United States. We doubt much whether any
more wisely appropriated foreign charity, than that extended to these
schools, can be found; and in speaking of Mrs. Johnson’s, we would wish
to do so in such a manner as to induce our countrywomen of the Baptist
churches at home--as well as of other denominations of Protestant
Christians, whose enlarged benevolence inclines them to do good
whenever an opportunity offers--to become its patrons.
Some of the Chinese youth who have become Christians after coming
under the instruction of Mr. Johnson, have, on their refusing to join
in the idolatrous ancestral worship of the country, been very cruelly
treated by their friends. One of these--a young shopkeeper--was sadly
persecuted by his parents, as well as by his brothers and sisters;
who not only beat him, but would give him no food, nor suffer him to
enter the house. This young man became a Christian after attending,
from motives of curiosity, the services at the Mission Chapel which Mr.
Johnson established at _Tat-hau-po_,--a place on the main-land about
five miles from Double Island. Finally his business was entirely broken
up, and in order to support himself he peddled rice, eggs, and fruit.
We often procured our supplies of these articles of him, and long
before being made acquainted with his history had observed his meek and
chastened appearance, as well as his quiet and gentle demeanor. Older
persons, also, on forsaking their idolatry, have suffered very bitter
persecution. One of this class,--who is a member of the Mission Church
at _Tat-hau-po_,--previous to his conversion, kept a shop for selling
small idols, incense-sticks and incense-paper. This man, after coming
under the illuminating and sanctifying influence of the Gospel, decided
to abandon a business that was so entirely supported by idol-worship,
and therefore immediately closed his shop. This course did not meet
with the approbation of his wife or children, none of whom would
associate with him, and he was thrust from his home as an outcast.
Just before war broke out between China and the Allies, As-sune, an
old native teacher in the employ of Mr. Johnson, being a Christian,
suffered imprisonment in the city of _Chau-chau-fu_, which is situated
forty miles up the river from Swatow. When taken before the Mandarins,
this man refused to kneel, saying that “he kneeled to none but Jesus.”
Then, when attempting to preach the Gospel to them by relating the
history of our Saviour, and telling them of his death upon the cross,
an effort was made to silence him, which being unsuccessful, he was
severely beaten on the cheek with the heavy shoe of a Chinaman, until
his face was badly cut and two of his teeth were knocked out.
The native Christians under the watch and care of the mission, always
attend the communion services held at Double Island, and have the
advantage of profiting by the valuable teachings of Mr. Johnson
several times during the year. These services commence on Friday, and
continue until Sunday evening; and the communicants, coming from the
main-land, frequently travel a distance of forty or fifty miles to
be present. In summer the boats of these people arrive at the island
in the morning, and our house being situated near the landing-place,
we watched with interest for the arrival of three aged Christians,
who, fifteen or twenty years ago, while living in Siam for business
purposes, had, through the faithfulness of some Baptist missionaries,
been converted to Christianity. The countenances of these men--who
were over sixty years of age--were spiritual to a degree that reminded
us of the old man given in the last picture of Cole’s paintings of
the “Voyage of Life.” One rarely meets with such faces, nor with more
happy and devoted Christians. We learned from Mr. Johnson that these
men, with a few other native converts in humble life, were doing much
good among the people where they lived; and that it was not an uncommon
thing for persons who had become Christians through the influence of
their teachings and example, to come to him for the purpose of further
instruction, and to be admitted into his church by baptism. One of
the old men mentioned cultivated a small piece of ground, and selling
whatever it yielded, appropriated the avails of it to printing parts
of the Bible, and religious tracts, which he distributed among his
countrymen. This little plot of ground he called “Christ’s Garden.”
The London Missionary Society also had two missionary clergymen
stationed in towns forty or fifty miles from Swatow. These men--who
were devoted to their work,--occasionally visited the island; and
although living where there were no foreign residents, their isolation
from the world made them none the less cheerful, nor earnest in doing
good.
The different dialects prevailing in every new district one visits in
China, are no less noticeable than the difference which is observed in
the appearances of the people. This first attracted our attention on
reaching Swatow, where we thought the people more hardy looking, as
well as rougher, than the same class of natives seen farther south. In
fact, the natives of this district have had the reputation of being
a savage and quarrelsome people; and a few years ago it was thought
to be as much as a foreigner’s life was worth to venture living in
their vicinity. The difficulty, however, was greatly owing to their
inefficient rulers, together with the dreadful feuds which existed
between the inhabitants of different villages. This state of things
increased until the people of some of the villages could not pursue
any honest employment, however much they might desire to do so. They
were often attacked when at work in their fields; and if the crops were
left unmolested until ripe, they were sure to be harvested by bands
of plunderers. A number of large fishing villages were prominent in
creating the anarchy and suffering that finally prevailed, and, being
located near the coast, were able to make successful depredations
upon the commerce between the sea and the interior, until they nearly
destroyed it. By reason of this, foreign vessels, being able to resist
the marauders, found lucrative employment at Swatow long before the
port was opened by treaty to foreign trade. In consequence of this
deplorable state of things, the people were finally reduced to the
most abject poverty; and starvation being the only alternative to
emigration, Swatow speedily became the centre of the Coolie traffic. At
first, the trade being confined to Singapore and Siam, was not marked
by those horrors which characterized it after it fell into the hands of
the Europeans.
This wicked traffic, like the African slave-trade, resulted in
the natives kidnapping one another; and it was the custom of the
people of different villages to make raids,--the stronger upon
the weaker,--simply for the purpose of procuring men to sell as
Coolies to the Europeans. These unfortunate creatures were put into
receiving-ships lying in the harbor, and being poorly cared for, as
well as placed in very crowded and close quarters, they died in great
numbers before the vessels were ready to leave port.
Near a portion of the sea-beach which formed a part of our favorite
walk on Double Island, there were two large mounds where many of these
Coolies were buried. The sand with which they were originally covered
had in some places been washed away by the rains, and occasionally
we noticed the bones of an arm or a leg protruding from some part of
the elevation. It required only one sad look at these huge graves
to convince us that the Asiatic, when once within the grasp of the
money-loving and rapacious European, meets with the same fate as the
poor African. We observed the _Ipomea maritima_--a beautiful creeper,
which is found trailing in great luxuriance over the sandy beaches
of the China sea--growing near these tumuli, and partly covering the
surface of one of them with its rich foliage and flowers.
It is stated that during the worst stage of the Coolie traffic the
people of the district were demoralized to such a degree that they so
far violated all Chinese ideas of propriety as to sell their women,
who were sent in large numbers to Singapore and Siam, and that some
were also exported to Cuba. The prices received for them ranged from
fifteen to thirty dollars, and at that time they constituted a regular
article of merchandise to Singapore and Bankok. With the legalization
of foreign trade at the port of Swatow, this shocking condition of
things underwent a change, and the cruelty attending the Coolie traffic
ceased. This being followed by a great increase in trade, and a
corresponding increase in revenue, induced both the Government and the
people to interpose with a strong hand and put a stop to the enormity.
Nothing is now heard of the Coolie trade, nor of the suffering that
first caused it; in fact, so few can now be induced even to emigrate
that the establishment of the British Emigration Company--which is
situated on the Otow shore upon the main-land, and opposite Double
Island--was abandoned during the summer I was there, and the agents
either left the port, or engaged in a different business.
If, in Southern China, there were accessible mountain regions, where,
as in India, sanatariums could be established for the invalided,
doubtless by resorting to such places for a few months,--while
undergoing the process of acclimation,--foreigners would be enabled to
remain in the country with some degree of comfort and safety, for a
much longer time than they now do. As the interior of China becomes
more and more occupied by Europeans, such places will probably be
found; but until then, foreigners, when seriously affected by the
climate, must seek a change in visiting the more salubrious coasts of
Japan, or by returning home. During the summer months I was gradually
prostrated by ill-health; and in September,--notwithstanding my
agreeable life in China, and the lively interest which I had taken
in regard to the country and its singular people,--I was obliged to
prepare for returning home.
FOOTNOTES:
[31] Called, also, by foreigners, the Swatow River.
[32] Some of the most fearful typhoons ever experienced in China have
visited Swatow since this light-house was built. When I was at Swatow,
it had, however, fallen into disuse; and, from recent letters received,
I learn that it has finally been pulled down by the natives.
[33] The front of the theatre is entirely open, and is built high, so
that the performance is in the second story, while the spectators stand
in crowds outside.
CHAPTER XIII.
Mr. Johnson had been for some time anxious to send his only son, Master
Charlie,--a lad in his fifteenth year,--home to be educated; and it was
accordingly arranged that he should be my _compagnon du voyage_. Our
passage to New York was taken in the clipper ship _Jacob Bell_, which
was then loading at Fuh-chau,--a port situated about three hundred
miles north of Swatow. The _Jacob Bell_ was expected to be ready to put
to sea by the 15th or 20th of October; and Mr. W----, having received
leave of absence to go on to Fuh-chau, and to remain there until we
sailed, our preparations were soon made, and on the 10th of that month,
bidding adieu, with many regrets, to the kind friends we had met at the
island, and once more embarking on board the English steamer _Undine_,
we were soon sailing up the coast, _en route_ to Fuh-chau.
Although steaming against a northeast monsoon, we arrived at Amoy[34]
the next day; and the vessel remaining there three days, not only
enjoyed a quiet and church-going Sunday, but, as far as health would
permit, were able to see something of the place. Some of the small
islands, which form the boundary of the bay seaward, are surmounted
with pagodas and temples; which, together with the high hills and
verdant country in the background of the city of Amoy, renders an
approach to the place from the sea charmingly picturesque.
The town is built on a large island, called _Hiamun_, or island of
Amoy, which according to Dr. Williams, is forty miles in circumference.
The same author also states the circumference of the city and its
suburbs to be about eight miles, containing a population of 300,000,
while that of the island is estimated at 100,000 more. Most of the
foreign residents live on the lovely island of _Ku-lang-su_, or the
“drum wave island,”[35] which lies in the harbor, directly opposite the
city. The house of Mr. Bradford--our consul--is on this island,--the
little avenue leading to it being bordered with beautiful palms.
On Sunday we attended the Mission Chapel, where the Rev. W. C. Burns--a
missionary of the English Presbyterian Mission--performed the religious
services. Mr. Burns--who always wears the Chinese costume--frequently
travels into the interior of the country, and visiting the cities
and villages, prepares the way for the permanent settlement of other
missionaries. He has been several years engaged in his heaven-directed
work,--having assumed the native dress at the outset, in order as
much as possible to go unobserved among the people. In this garb he
is able to enter new places quite unmolested, and easily gains the
attention of the multitudes which throng the streets of all Chinese
towns. He labored at one time in the district of Swatow, and was
imprisoned for Christ’s sake at the city of Chau-chau-fu, at the time
that As-sune,--Mr. Johnson’s old teacher--suffered for his Divine
Master. From recent information I learn that, in the region about
Amoy, the labors of Mr. Burns, in connection with the efforts of other
missionaries, have been greatly blessed, and that many of the people
have embraced Christianity. These native converts, however, have
suffered severe persecution; and their enemies, in order to entirely
root out Christianity, at one time threatened to drive them from
their homes and property. The missionaries, however, appealed to Mr.
Pedder--the English Consul at Amoy--for their protection; which being
obtained, according to the treaties made at Tien-tsin, the persecutors
entered into a bond not to interfere with the native converts; and in a
few days the Mandarins issued a proclamation stating that the matter
was settled, and forbidding the people to molest any persons “who may
enter the holy religion of Jesus.” There is a very prosperous mission
of the American Dutch Reformed Board established at Amoy; and to the
Rev. Mr. Doty--who has for more than twenty years been one of its most
efficient and devoted missionaries--we were indebted for various kind
civilities. Mr. Doty had just recovered from a slight attack of fever;
and it was evident that his long residence within the tropics was
telling disastrously upon his health. We observed, however, that his
deep interest in the Mission cause made the thought of leaving his post
exceedingly painful.
Every city in China is noted for some article of manufacture peculiarly
its own; and the Amoy bracelet--formed of olive-stones exquisitely
carved, is a unique ornament of rare elegance. Beautiful brooches,
also, carved in pseudo sandal-wood,--which is of the color of the
olive-stone,--are made to match the bracelets. These ornaments are much
in request among the foreigners visiting Amoy, and are particularly
sought after by the English, who send them home, where they are said
to be highly prized. The Amoy pumelo,[36]--which is noted for being
superior to any grown elsewhere,--was in perfection at the time of our
visit. This delicious fruit gained but little in its change of name,
when introduced by Captain Shaddock into the West Indies.
Leaving Amoy on Monday afternoon, we met a very heavy monsoon sea
outside the harbor, and before nine o’clock had a stiff breeze, which
finally increased to a gale, and made our passage to Fuh-chau very
tempestuous. The next evening, however, we reached the three islands
called the White Dogs, which lie off the mouth of the river Min, and
anchored under the lee of one of them, where we remained until the
next morning, when at flood tide, crossing the bar at the mouth of the
river, we sailed up the latter to the Pagoda anchorage. Fuh-chau is
situated about forty miles from the mouth of the river; and the passage
being difficult, large vessels proceed no farther than this anchorage,
which is off an island of the same name.
Thirteen or fourteen miles from the mouth of the Min, the stream, for
the distance of nearly three miles, is less than half a mile wide, with
the water from twelve to twenty-five fathoms deep. The hills rise on
each side of this pass to the height of from fifteen hundred to two
thousand feet, and are defended by forts. Dr. Williams has well said
that “the scenery on this river, though of a different character, will
bear comparison with that of the Hudson for sublimity and beauty. The
hills are, however, much higher on the Min.” On sailing up the river
the scenery varies, although the bold and romantic hills give a certain
uniformity to the stream. These elevations are for the most part
covered with verdure, while those of a less rocky and rough surface are
terraced, and cultivated to their summits. At two points near which we
sailed we observed establishments for firing or curing tea, and some of
the furnaces were so situated as to be in full view. In the valleys,
and upon the low lands bordering the river above the narrow pass, we
observed small hamlets and extensive farms, furnished with buildings,
and orchards of fruit-trees, which, from our point of view, seemed more
like country life at the West than anything we saw in China.
On reaching the Pagoda anchorage,--which is at the termination of ship
navigation on the Min,--we learned that the _Jacob Bell_ would not
be ready to sail for two or three weeks, during which time, through
the kind hospitality of the house of Messrs. Olyphant & Co., we were
entertained at their residence in Fuh-chau.[37] With the exception
of Hong Kong and Macao, there are no hotels for the accommodation
of foreigners in any of the ports of Southern China. At every place,
however, strangers meet with the most agreeable hospitality from the
foreign residents, who throw open their houses and welcome them with
a delicate heartiness and kind sincerity which no grateful words can
overpraise. Their houses are spacious; and as every one travels with a
servant who takes charge of his apartment, the guest is quite as much
at home as he would be in his own house.
We made the sail from the anchorage to the city of Fuh-chau--which
is about twelve miles further up the river--in a pleasure-boat
belonging to the Imperial Customs. The boat, which was large, and
furnished with sails,--although differently constructed from the
Canton “matrimonials,”--had a cabin which was fitted up in a similar
manner. When leaving the anchorage we not only had the tide with us,
but the wind was also favorable, and until we had taken one or two
turns in the river,--which brought us under the lee of a considerable
mountain,--we sailed with very good speed. We then, however, came to
a dead calm; but after our eight stalwart Fuh-chauan boatmen had been
for a long time sitting quietly and waiting for a propitious wind,
we heard a low, wind-like whistle, and as it became louder discovered
that, sailor-like, they were whistling to call to their aid a friendly
breeze. How long this would have lasted I cannot say, as here Mr. W----
interposed, ordering the chief man to bid them take to their oars,
which they readily did; and while plying them sang in a nasal, and at
times in a harsh, guttural tone a monotonous refrain, to which they not
only kept time with their oars, but also with their feet. Landing at
the hong of Messrs. Olyphant & Co., we were soon comfortably domiciled
in their new and spacious mansion, which occupies a beautiful location,
upon a fine eminence, on the south bank of the river, where most of the
foreigners have their residences.
Fuh-chau-fu--or the Happy City--is built in a plain, through which
flows the river Min. This plain is entirely surrounded by mountains,
forming a vast amphitheatre of about twenty miles in diameter, in the
northern part of which the city is situated, while the river enters it
from the northwest, through a narrow pass said to be similar to the
one we have described as occurring fourteen miles from its mouth. The
land is of great fertility, and that part of it unoccupied by the city
is intersected by little canals, and covered with cultivated fields,
which are interspersed with hamlets, cottages, orchards, gardens, and
beautifully wooded knolls. The Rev. R. S. Maclay, in his “Life among
the Chinese,” says that “the city proper is surrounded by a substantial
wall built compactly of brick, and resting on a foundation of granite.
The wall is about twenty feet high and ten feet thick, surmounted by
a parapet five feet high, with bastions at regular intervals. The
gateways are of great size and strength, and so constructed that a
small force in charge of them could hold at bay almost any number of
attacking troops.”
The extensive southern suburb--called the suburb of _Nantai_--reaches
three miles from the south wall to the river, and stretches along both
sides of the stream. Along the southern shore, and particularly upon
the handsomely swelling hill beyond, this suburb is not as densely
built. It is, however, the centre of both the native and foreign trade;
and the business hongs of the foreigners are situated near the river,
while their residences occupy the eminence that overlooks them. From
this hill the south gate of the city--which is six miles distant--is
reached by a single street. The two bridges spanning the river are
substantially built of granite, and are connected by a little islet in
the river, which is called by the natives _chang-chau_.[38] The bridge
crossing the northern branch of the river--which is called “The Bridge
of Ten Thousand Ages”--is composed of twenty-six spans, each measuring
twenty feet, and is furnished with a stone balustrade. The piers and
spans are constructed of granite; and the floor of the bridge is also
formed of the same material. The bridge crossing that portion of the
stream, between the island and the southern bank of the river, is built
in the same manner, but comprises only nine arches. These remarkable
structures--over which crowds of people are continually passing and
repassing--are said to be at least a thousand years old.
Ill-health prevented my thoroughly “doing” the city; but being
guests for two days in the family of the Rev. Mr. Hartwell,--one of
the missionaries of the American Board, who was living within the
walls,--we visited a few places of interest, and learned more in regard
to the city proper than I could otherwise have done.
The street of six miles, which we traversed in going through the
suburb of Nantai, on our way to the south gate of the city, is lined
on both sides with shops and residences, and always crowded from morn
till night with a busy, jostling, and noisy moving mass of shopmen,
mechanics, hucksters, and the bearers of heavy burdens. We had up to
this time considered ourselves thoroughly acquainted with the power
and depth of the lungs of a Chinaman, and supposed that the deafening
vociferations and noisy cries, that we had heard in the streets of
Canton, could not be emulated; but after our brawny sedan-bearers
had threaded their way through the suburb of Nantai, and, entering
the city gate, were trotting briskly through North and South Street,
we cheerfully awarded the palm to the sturdy, rough, and noisy
Fuh-chauan. The increase of vile odors also, as compared with Canton,
was in the same ratio; while the people, as a whole, looked much
stouter,--or rather more brawny,--as well as rougher and poorer. At
different places along the street we observed establishments, furnished
with chairs and little tables, where people were drinking tea, and
refreshing themselves with food. These places--which reminded us of
the restaurants of the West--are called tea-pavilions. Very soon after
passing one of these places--which was not far from the south gate--we
were surprised at having our eyes greeted with the sight of a church,
which has been built at that central point by the American Methodist
Episcopal Mission. The edifice--which reminded us, in its exterior,
of some of the village churches at home--is built with a cupola, and
furnished with a bell. It is well located to attract the crowds of
people who, during the day, always throng that great thoroughfare, and,
at any hour it is only necessary to throw open the doors in order to
gather a congregation.
The principal street within the walled city--which is called _Nanka_,
that is, South Street--runs from the south gate nearly to the north,
and is therefore usually called by the Europeans North and South
Street. For a Chinese town, it is a wide and well-paved street, and in
it are located the finest shops in the city. This place had been open
to foreigners for so short a time that we were more of a curiosity,
while in Nanka Street, than in any spot that we visited while in China.
In fact, when entering some extensive china shops, we were so pressed
upon and closely pursued by the crowd on stepping out of our chairs
that we were obliged to rush through the front apartments of the shops
into the large warerooms beyond, in order to escape them. The gentlemen
and Master Charlie were in open chairs, and the latter was an object of
special interest. A foreign boy of fourteen years is rarely seen in the
streets of a Chinese city, and of course our young friend was a great
lion to the curious Fuh-chauans, who turned their heads and gazed after
him as long as he could be seen.
In Fuh-chau,--as in Canton,--the residences of the Mandarins, and other
persons of position and wealth, are in the western portion of the
town, and it is said that some of their establishments are arranged
and furnished in a style indicating refinement and good taste. The
city and its suburbs contain half a million of inhabitants, who are
a very energetic, persevering, and independent people, and are also
represented as being more or less refractory, and consequently not
over polite. Indeed they are much less courteous than the Cantonese;
and a foreigner from the south of China will quickly observe their
harsh, guttural dialect, as well as their independent bearing. The
boat-people are numerous, and the river--like all rivers near Chinese
cities--presents an animated picture. The boat-women have also a
fashion of wearing flowers in their hair; which, together with the
flower-pots that ornament nearly all the boats, give the scene a
peculiarly attractive aspect. The women, in fact, of all classes are
in the habit of dressing their heads with flowers; and however gray
the hair, or bald the head, or soiled and tattered the garments, these
beautiful ornaments, tastefully arranged in little bouquets, are seen
fastened with metal pins to the side, or near the top of the head. The
pins used are ornamental, and we observed some made of silver wire
that matched well with the hoop-rings of extraordinary circumference
which they wore in their ears. Many of these floral ornaments were
composed of china-asters of exquisite tints, which, in regard to the
contrast of colors, showed much fine taste in their arrangement. Not
unfrequently bouquets are worn on both sides of the head; and the
charming effect of these decorations, as viewed in the constantly
changing crowds which one encounters in the streets, must be seen in
order to be fully appreciated. No description--at least none that I can
give--is adequate to the subject. Natural flowers are much in favor
with these women, although many of them wear artificial ones; and for
the purpose of answering the constant demand which this fashion has
created, artificial flowers are extensively manufactured. Upon many of
these I observed butterflies of brilliant hues, which were represented
as having alighted to taste their sweets. Of course the flowers made
for the use of the ladies are much more elegant and expensive than
those used by the lower classes. The field-flowers, however,--which are
particularly designed for the latter,--are very beautiful.
There are two Confucian temples within the walls of the city; one of
which having been burned a few years ago, has since been rebuilt, on a
grand scale, by the Mandarins, and is said to be the finest building
in the town. The main temple has a lofty portico, and a fretted roof
which is supported by huge columns of granite. From this temple we
went to a picturesque elevation overlooking the city, and the whole
amphitheatre of hills in the midst of which it is built, and which
is called _Wu-shih-shan_, or Black-stone Hill. At one place, more
than half way up the steep and rugged ascent of this hill, there is a
Buddhist temple, with ornamental buildings scattered here and there;
and upon the highest point there is also an altar, constructed of
stone, which supports a sort of iron vase, in which the superstitious
Fuh-chauans--who resort thither thrice a year for the purpose of
worshipping the heavens and the earth--burn their incense-paper.
Strong sedan-bearers carried me with much apparent ease for some
distance above the monastery, from which point I clambered up the
remainder of the rock-ribbed summit, where the widely extended and
beautiful view, not only of the city but of the mountains, the hills,
and the rice-fields on the low land,--with the river and little
canals intersecting the latter,--more than repaid for the fatigue
which I encountered. The view of the city from this point is one of
great interest; the two nine-storied pagodas,[39] together with the
watch-towers on the walls, greatly relieving the monotony of the low,
tiled roofs; while the scene is still further diversified by the great
numbers of noble old banian-trees for which Fuh-chau is noted.[40]
Passing down the other side of the _Wu-shih-shan_, we reached the city
wall, and continued our walk upon it until we came to the south gate.
The top and sides of these walls were everywhere covered with vines,
grass, and lovely ferns.
Some of the mountains, five or six miles below the city, are two or
three thousand feet high. One of these, called Kushan Peak, has already
become something of a sanatarium for foreigners; and the place is also
noted as being the location of one of the most extensive and celebrated
Buddhist monasteries in China, which is situated far up the side of the
mountain, occupying a charming spot, only a few hundred feet from the
top of the peak. Strangers visiting Fuh-chau usually make a pilgrimage
to this spot; but the ascent of two or three miles--although it could
have been accomplished in a mountain-chair--was too formidable an
undertaking for an invalid, and I was obliged to be contented with a
view of the broad and well-made path leading up to it. This path, which
is shaded most of the way by lofty pines, has “rest-houses” erected
along its winding course; and in the vicinity of the monastery--which
commands a prospect stretching far away among the distant mountains and
fertile valleys--huge camphor-trees are growing.
The hills and mountain-sides on the south bank of the river are covered
with graves and tombs, interspersed among which are beautiful little
groves of lofty pines, and occasional patches of land where a plant is
cultivated, whose flowers are used for the purpose of scenting tea; or,
perhaps, the spot is used for vegetables. The graves of the Mandarins
are always expensive. On our excursions, however, to enjoy the cool
evening air, we frequently passed a new tomb of the Greek-letter form,
which was built with a tasteful, altar-like arrangement, where the
offerings were placed at the time of ancestral worship. This was one
of the most costly and showy tombs I ever saw, and was simply the
sepulchre of a private gentleman of great wealth. Many of the foreign
residences look out upon this vast cemetery, and the delightful house
at which we were guests was built in the midst of these tombs and
tumuli. The spot on which it stands, and the compound surrounding
it, were originally used for the same purpose. When it was purchased,
however, the friends of the dead removed their remains. There are some
very ancient tombs, situated near the wall enclosing the grounds of
this residence, which have been occupied several hundred years.
Low buildings, constructed of wood, and of sufficient height to admit
of three or four rows of shelves for the support of coffins, are also
scattered here and there in this vast resting-place of the dead. Within
them, closely sealed, coffined relics are placed, and remain until what
the surviving friends consider a “lucky day” arrives, and then, the
“lucky spot” in which to inter them being procured, they are buried. I
was assured that not unfrequently years elapsed before everything was
regarded as propitious for the interment of these remains. And also
learned that some were placed there because of the poverty of their
friends, and were left until the latter could afford the expense of a
fitting burial. We observed that many of these temporary little wooden
sepulchres were so old and dilapidated that the coffins were plainly
visible to the gaze of the passer-by.
The foreigners have so far widened and improved some of the many
winding paths--which lead in every direction among the graves, and
stretch far out into the country--that there is ample room for
equestrians. A few European horses are kept, but we observed that the
little Tartar pony of the North was also used. This animal reminded us
of the Canadian pony, although he looked a trifle smaller, while his
mane was much heavier.
Many of my countrywomen would doubtless be appalled at the idea of
having no promenade but that bordered by graves and tombs. I have
already intimated, in speaking of this subject in connection with our
life at Whampoa, that they do not tend to make the aspect of nature
cheerful; and if we found this the case before having seen the unbroken
miles of beautiful hills and the steep mountain-sides, which at
Fuh-chau are covered with these reminders of our mortality, this change
in our location did not render us the less inclined to solemnity.
It is not difficult, however, to become cheerfully habituated even
to this funereal landscape; and the country about Fuh-chau is so
incomparably beautiful that in spite of the graveyard use to which
most of the uncultivated ground is put, one cannot but admire and
enjoy the scenes around him. In fact, the suburbs and surroundings of
this city were more attractive in situation and scenery than any other
place we visited in China. The hill-sides offer finer locations for
residences; where, excepting in the hottest weather, Europeans can be
as comfortable as at home. For although it is very warm from May until
the first of October, the mountain-breezes continue to be bracing until
late in the spring; and returning early in the autumn, the climate is
not as exhausting as at the ports further south. In China, however, the
humidity of the atmosphere is such that the same degrees of heat and
cold are more seriously felt than in the United States.
Kite-flying is a gentlemanly pastime among the Fuh-chauans; and
groups of men are frequently seen moving about among the graves, upon
the hills, engaged in this amusement. Sometimes the kite is made to
represent a flock of birds; and on one occasion we observed that they
were so natural and bird-like in form and motion, that, had we not
been assured to the contrary, we should have taken them for what they
only appeared to be. The Chinese, in fact, are said to succeed so
admirably in making and flying these bird-kites that an Englishman,
on first arriving in the country, being out on a hunting excursion,
fired into a flock of them before perceiving his mistake. We also saw
a centipede-kite,--said to be a hundred feet in length,--which was
flying, and in its motions was not unlike the frightfully disagreeable
reptile it represented.
I was more and more impressed at every place we visited in China
with the skill exhibited by the people in their own peculiar
works of art, but found none more worthy of notice than that of
the Fuh-chauans, whose exquisite carvings in marble are not only
excellent representations of themselves, but also of the local scenes
in and about the city; many of which are beautifully done. The people
of a district about sixty miles from Fuh-chau are famous for the
manufacture of flowers, which are made of silver. We shall not attempt
a description of these beautiful creations of artistic taste and skill,
which represent delicate foliage and flowers, and are formed into
wreaths for the head, as well as made into little ornamental clusters
or bouquets. We saw one wreath of exquisite workmanship, which was
admirably adapted to adorn the head of a bride. The people of this same
district manufacture also a very curious but handsome fire-screen,
woven of paper, on which are represented not only flowers, birds, and
animals, but also figures of men and women, together with various
scenes common to the country. The most remarkable thing about them is
that the figures are made in the weaving. The threads of paper are
colored before the material is woven, and the scenes and figures are
given in the most brilliant hues.
For the benefit of the foreign community the services of the English
Church are held every Sunday in the English Chapel,--which is a small
Gothic edifice, occupying a fine situation in the neighborhood of the
English consulate, and upon an eminence which is quite the centre of
the foreign community. The premises of the American Methodist Episcopal
Mission are also in the same neighborhood with the foreign residences;
and a small church--which is erected within the wall enclosing them--is
arranged into two chapels, one being appropriated to services for the
benefit of Europeans, and the other for such natives as may choose to
attend upon the ministrations of the missionaries. The American Board
have a mission station within the walls of the city, which is occupied
by two mission families. They have also another station in the suburbs,
where, at the time of our visit, two other families were living. The
ladies at these stations were doing all they could for the religious
and domestic education and other improvement of the native women and
their daughters.
At the station within the walls, Mrs. Hartwell was teaching a number
of native women, but was in great need of a convenient room apart from
her own house, where at stated hours she could receive and instruct
them. On account of the state of the finances at home, the mission was
unwilling to appeal to the Society for aid to build a house for this
purpose, but an effort which was being made, when we left Fuh-chau, to
raise the necessary funds among the foreigners, was successful; and
from letters subsequently received from there, we have been informed
that the building is completed and occupied, much to the satisfaction
of the mission. The school under the care of the wife of the Rev. Mr.
Baldwin,--one of the missionaries of the station in the suburbs,--and
also that of the Misses Woolston,--of the Methodist Mission,--were
spoken of as flourishing, and as quietly assisting to do the same good
work among the Chinese girls of Fuh-chau which is being accomplished by
the same kind of schools at Canton and Swatow.
FOOTNOTES:
[34] This is the ancient port of Zoi-tun mentioned by Marco Polo.
[35] So called because the noise made by heavy waves beating against
one part of the shore, where there is a cave-like formation, is very
similar to the beating of a drum.
[36] The fruit of the _Citrus decumana_.
[37] I cannot refrain from expressing here our gratitude to Mr. O----,
an Englishman,--who, at that time represented the firm of Olyphant &
Co. at Fuh-chau,--for his many acts of thoughtful kindness, and his
gentlemanly attentions while we were his guests.
[38] In the local dialect it is _Tongchin_.
[39] One of these is called the White, and the other the Black Pagoda.
They are very old, and are connected with Buddhist temples. The White
Pagoda, however, is in such a state of decay that no one is allowed to
ascend it.
[40] Fuh-chau is sometimes called by the natives, the “City of
Banians.”
CHAPTER XIV.
Being advised, on the 3d of November, that the _Jacob Bell_ had
received her full cargo, and would sail in a few days, we hastened the
few remaining preparations for our long voyage, and embarked on board
of her. On Friday, the 7th of the month, our regretful adieus were
made to the friends we were leaving, and the ship was towed from the
anchorage down the river by the English steamer _Fieloong_, when she
anchored for the night at Sharp Peak Island. The next morning, being
again taken in tow, we were soon beyond all rocks and bars, when the
steamer left us in charge of a pilot, who was also to leave us at the
White Dogs. On reaching the neighborhood of these islands, however,
we encountered a very short and heavy sea; and not being able to pass
sufficiently near under the lee of the island to make it safe for the
pilot-boat to come off for him, he was compelled to go down the sea
with us. In such rough sailing it was impossible not to come somewhat
under the influence of old Neptune, and poor Charlie suffered severely.
We were, however, too good sailors to be long affected, and the next
day all such disagreeables were forgotten.
Our accommodations were excellent; and although we were the only
passengers, the fact that Captain Frisbie--the master of the
vessel--had his wife on board was encouraging, and enabled me to look
forward the more hopefully to the safe termination of the long voyage
before us.
A strong northeast monsoon drove us down the channel of Formosa and the
China Sea at the rate of eleven knots an hour, so that on Sunday we
were passing Namoa Island, which lies not far from the entrance to the
harbor of Swatow; and on Monday morning were sailing within forty miles
of Hong Kong. After sighting Victoria Peak we fell in with a native
pilot-boat, which enabling the captain to send his Fuh-chauan pilot
to Hong Kong, we did not suffer the detention we had feared, in being
obliged to go into port in order to land him.
On the 18th day of the month--when below the fourth degree of north
latitude, and in the neighborhood of the Natura Islands--our fine
breeze left us; but, under the influence of light winds, we sailed
on slowly,--the mercury indicating a heat of from eighty to ninety
degrees. The weather soon became so oppressive that, on the 21st of
the month, one of the sailors had a _coup de soleil_, and fell while
at the wheel. Happily it did not prove a fatal case, and after a few
days of care the man was again performing his duties. While near the
Natura Islands we had several ships in sight, and speaking two of them,
learned that they were bound to London. During the night of the 21st
we had severe squalls of wind and rain, and in a few hours “boxed the
compass” seven times. Calms succeeded these squalls, but when off the
island of Borneo strong southerly currents floated us gently onward,
and at noon on the 23d of November we crossed the equator.
When about two miles south of the equinoctial line we were suddenly
greeted with the cry of “A sea-serpent, a sea-serpent!” and at the same
time Master Charlie came rushing into the cabin, and begged me to go up
on deck and see the monster. With the Nahant sea-serpent, however, in
mind, and stout incredulity in my heart, I followed my young friend.
The serpent--or whatever it might have been--was on our larboard side,
and floating with the current at a distance of what seemed to be
not more than two or three times the length of the ship from us. On
ascending to the deck I found the captain and his crew watching the
movements of the creature, which was then quietly floating opposite
the vessel. There was not a ripple to be seen upon the mirror-like
surface of the ocean. In a few moments, however, the object moved in
a very slow manner, and raising what was pronounced to be his head,
made some disagreeably sinuous motions with his body, after which he
again relapsed into a state of quietude. This continued but for a
short time, when there was another general movement, which was more
decidedly animated and serpent-like than at the first; and this time
the so-called head appeared to be raised nearly above the water. This
demonstration was too terribly frightful; and, having a great horror
of anything so suggestive of a reptile, I fled directly to the cabin.
Nor did I regret our having passed this nondescript creature, which
appeared to us very like a huge snake floating along while basking in
the fiercest heat of the torrid zone. Many parts of the China Sea are
infested with snakes, which are often seen swimming near the surface
of the water; and the captain of the _Jacob Bell_ declared that he had
seen them ten feet long. This creature, however,--which he and all his
crew persisted in calling a sea-serpent,--was pronounced by him to be
forty feet in length, and one old sailor went so far as to say that it
was as long as the mainyard. It was of a dark snuff-color, and was said
to be covered with barnacles.
I do not relate this exciting incident with any intention of
proclaiming that we saw a veritable sea-serpent; nor do I say that
it was a living monster of any kind, but merely state the case in
accordance with appearances. Furthermore, I do not acknowledge
to any belief about it; but leave the decision that it was a
sea-serpent--which was made by the captain and crew of the _Bell_--to
be sustained or reversed by the citizens of Nahant, whose superior
wisdom and vast experience in such matters is universally acknowledged
and always deferred to.
Reaching Gasper Strait, and sailing through the Staltz Channel, we
passed the islands and dangerous shoals in that vicinity with safety,
and entered the Java Sea on the 26th of November. Ship supplies can
always be procured at Anjer, which is a small port on the coast of
Java, and just within the Strait of Sunda as it is entered from the
Java Sea. When the wind is fair, vessels frequently stop there and
take in their supplies while at anchor; when, however, the weather is
unfavorable, boats loaded with the necessary articles go out and meet
them.
Having calms and light winds we sailed very slowly; but finally, after
passing the North Watchers and the Thousand Islands, on the afternoon
of the 29th--when about fifty miles from the Strait of Sunda--two
native boats, or _prahus_, were seen making vigorously for us. The
little craft--which were manned by Malays--were from Anjer; and
besides being loaded with fowls, fruits, and vegetables, had also
on board some monkeys, and a pair of little moose deer of Java,[41]
besides a few cages of Java sparrows. With the approach of the Malay
boats we were visited with a breeze; and after purchasing the necessary
supplies, our captain took the little vessels in tow, when we sailed on
at the rate of eight knots an hour. During the night one of the boats
parted her cable, and we left her, while the other continued with us
until morning, when, coming alongside, our letters were given to the
chief man on board, with instructions to deliver them into the hands
of the Dutch governor at Anjer, when we parted. This was on Sunday
morning, as we were nearing the islands of Java and Sumatra, with the
dark peaks of the Radjah Bassa mountains and the entrance-way to the
strait in full view. We, however, had a head-wind; and although our
captain made every exertion, by constantly tacking ship, to enter the
passage, he was finally obliged to come to, and anchor for the night
near the coast of Sumatra, and under the lee of the Radjah Bassa range.
Besides taking a long sea-voyage, one must be a wakeful invalid, and
also pass through a day of the disagreeable sailing and noise incident
to the frequent tacking of ship, in order to appreciate the quiet and
delicious sleep which I enjoyed that night. The next morning, being
more successful in our efforts, we entered the narrow pass on the
western side of Renjang, or Thwart-the-way Island, and, getting safely
through, were soon sailing past the little settlement of Anjer.
Renjang, or Thwart-the-way Island--which, as its name indicates, lies
athwart the mouth of the Strait--is jagged-looking, and of singular
shape, having sundry acute angles, whose rocky points shoot directly
out into the water. It is, however, covered with trees, shrubs, and
vines, and with its tropical luxuriance, displayed, as we sailed near,
some very exquisite bits of scenery. At one place, near the beach, the
ground and rocks formed high arches, over which trailed vines of the
richest foliage. We also observed a remarkable ravine, and an elevation
which rose perpendicularly from the water’s edge to the height of five
hundred feet.
On the 2d day of December we passed Cocketoo Island, and sailing on
reached Princess Island, which lies near the entrance to the Indian
Ocean, having a passage leading into it both upon its east and west
side. Taking the western passage, we were in a short time out on
the broad ocean; and as Java Head faded in the distance, not only
felicitated ourselves in having escaped the dangers of the China Sea,
but already began to look forward with much hopeful courage for the
future.
Our fine breeze had again died away, but having gentle zephyrs we still
moved slowly onward, and lost sight of Java Head before evening. During
the night, however, we met with a heavy swell from the south, and our
wind entirely failing us, we drifted so far back that in the morning
Java Head was again plainly visible. In the afternoon, being again
favored with a fair wind, we sailed on our course, when Java Head faded
permanently from our view. Up to this time calms and adverse winds had
prevailed to such a degree that for seventeen successive days we had
only made, on an average, two and a half miles an hour.
While in the East I observed that meteors were of much more common
occurrence than in our Western hemisphere. Indeed, when at Swatow,
our evenings were usually passed, until a very late hour, in an open
veranda; and I fail to remember a night in which we did not note one
or two, which, passing athwart the heavens, made the blue vault, which
sparkled with brilliant stars, if possible more splendidly glorious.
From the deck of the _Jacob Bell_, however, on the evening of the 5th
of December, I observed one which far exceeded in brilliancy, and in
the length of time that it remained luminous, any I had ever seen.
This appeared at first in the eastern portion of the heavens, and
taking an oblique direction to the south passed over a great space, and
then, for a few seconds, displayed a flame-colored tail,--while the
nucleus assumed a rich golden hue,--when it exploded and vanished. The
spotlessly white and ethereal-looking fleecy clouds--which are always
seen when sailing on the Indian Ocean--seemed to be more numerous and
beautiful than when on our voyage out; and when lighted up by the
departing rays of the setting sun the scene was enchanting. I may, in
time, forget our perils by sea, and the more painful perils that we
were afterwards placed in by our treacherous countrymen, but I can
never forget the sunset glories of the Indian Ocean. The Magellan
clouds and lovely Southern Cross, attended by its brilliantly sparkling
pointers, were also our nightly visitors; and, as on our outward
voyage, the stars in the Cross, as well as those composing Orion,
Taurus, and other southern constellations, appeared more brilliant than
when seen in the Atlantic tropics.
Although we had a favorable trade-wind within a week after entering
the Indian Ocean, it lasted only for a few days, and before the
21st of the month, as we neared the latitude of Mauritius, the heat
greatly increased, and we were again visited with light winds and
calms. For a week after leaving Fuh-chau it was pleasantly cool, but
from that time the mercury had not fallen below eighty degrees, and
sometimes it was as high as ninety and ninety-six degrees, which made
an atmosphere that, without the sea-breeze, would have been almost
unendurable. On Christmas Day we were passing the Isle of Bourbon; and
at night, having severe squalls of wind, were made painfully aware that
we were again in the hurricane latitudes at an inopportune season.
These squalls, however, lasted but for a short time, and, leaving
us with a fair breeze, we had passed the longitude of Madagascar
and were sailing prosperously onward, when we were suddenly visited
with a terrific squall from the northwest. This came on during the
afternoon of January 1st, 1863, when we were about off Port Natal.
As I had never before taken a voyage in a sailing vessel, and this
being the most fearful wind we had encountered, the loud screaming
tones of the captain, giving his orders, and the noise of the sailors
as they hastened to furl the sails, together with the howling of the
wind through the rigging, was appalling. It blew a gale during the
night, nor did it abate so that we could make sail until the following
afternoon; and yet this squall, and the few tempestuous hours that
followed it, bore no comparison to the sharp southeaster we encountered
three days afterwards.
We were then nearly off Great Fish River, with the prospect of soon
rounding the Cape. The gale, which commenced on Saturday, reached
its culminating point on Sunday, and we were obliged to lie to until
Monday morning. For several hours, fastenings arranged with pulleys
were attached to each side of the wheel, in order to keep the rudder
steady; and for still greater safety, a man crouched upon deck was
stationed to hold at each of the fastenings, while two men stood at
the wheel, and carefully guided the ship. The gale had continued many
hours before I could call sufficient courage into requisition to
take a view of the scene of awful grandeur about us. Being assured,
however, that our vessel was in no danger from the storm, I finally
ascended to the quarter-deck, from whence the huge and extensive waves
of the broad ocean presented a sublime though fearful spectacle. The
ship, although tossed about by the waves like a frail canoe, at the
same time rode them so easily that I soon learned to view the scene
with less terror and more satisfaction than I ever expected to regard
so fierce a tempest. We frequently shipped seas upon the main-deck;
and occasionally a wave dashing over the cabin, swept also the
quarter-deck. One of these waves, in fact, finally drove me below,
where I was glad to remain.
This dreadful gale--which began to lull about twelve o’clock Sunday
night--also left us with a fair breeze, which wafted us around the Cape
of Storms; and on the 9th of January we were in the South Atlantic,
with our prow pointing homeward, and beginning to indulge in the fancy
that our long voyage was fast drawing near to an auspicious close.
As we neared Cape Lagullas the air became bracing; and before we had
reached the Atlantic Ocean the atmosphere was delightful.
While rounding the Cape we fell in company with several kinds of
sea-birds; most of which, being new to us, were objects of much
interest. The albatross, in particular,--whether on the wing, or
floating with majestic grace upon the waves,--was always greeted with
admiration.
The fair breeze with which we entered the Atlantic continued until we
reached a favorable trade-wind; and--the latter accompanying us until
the 15th of January--we were at that date but seven miles from the
southern tropics. Here the weather becoming again very warm, the little
vigor which I had gained while sailing within the bracing region of the
Cape, was soon dissipated; and it seemed as though the long days and
nights of prostration and suffering, experienced before our ship had
reached and passed the equator, would never end. On the 2d of February,
however, we were nearly one degree north of the equinoctial line, and
beginning to feel, in a slight degree, the influence of the bracing
wind from the north. On the 10th,--being nearly out of the tropics, and
hoping to reach New York in ten or fifteen days,--with the assistance
of my young friend and only protector, Master Charlie, I began to pack
and make a few preparations in anticipation of that event.
FOOTNOTE:
[41] The deer--which were purchased by Captain Frisbie--throve
well, and were doing finely when we were taken by the pirate steamer
_Florida_. Then, however, they passed into the hands of the chief
buccaneer, Captain Maffit, who, soon after we were transferred from
his vessel to the Danish bark _Morning Star_, visited the island of
Barbadoes, and being dined and fêted by the Governor of that English
colony, he presented these beautiful creatures to the daughter of
his kind and hospitable entertainer. It was also reliably stated in
the public prints that Captain Maffit and his officers made presents
to the English ladies of beautiful articles from China and Japan.
These ladies were also highly delighted with some small canisters
of choice tea which Captain Maffit gave them; and as these were all
from our packages, I cannot say less than to express the fear that if
our English cousins _enjoy_ the possession of the Oriental articles
which we lost, they may also have disposed of their self-respect when
drinking our tea.
CHAPTER XV.
From the 2d of February to the 12th we had favorable winds, and for
three or four days our speed had averaged ten or eleven knots an hour.
At noon of that day, when in latitude 24° 1′ north and longitude 65°
58′ west, our captain and officers observed a sail in our wake, which
gradually gained upon us, until it could be plainly seen that she was
a steamer. At this time the wind had lulled, and we were only making
eight knots an hour; so that about three o’clock in the afternoon the
strange sail was distant from us perhaps six miles, and following
directly astern, with the “stars and stripes” run up on her foremast.
We had not thought of being molested by southern pirates,[42] but hoped
she might prove to be a gunboat of our Government; and being nearly
famished, after a five months’ fast, for news from home, were happy in
the prospect of hearing how it fared with our country. A little before
four o’clock I went to the quarter-deck, and seated myself on the
starboard side, not far back of the stern. She was then directly in our
track, and evidently making for us with much speed, having every stitch
of canvas out, even to her studding-sails, and her steam power in full
operation. Soon after this an order was given to unfurl our flag at the
peak, and I observed that our captain, who was constantly using his
glass, and watching the approaching vessel, seemed a little nervous and
ill at ease. Indeed, doubt had already begun to settle upon us all, for
the steamer was gaining upon us at the rate of three miles an hour, and
her appearance, to say the least, did not bode us any good. We were
making all the sail we could, and had the wind which had favored us the
day previous continued, we could have kept out of the range of her guns
until evening, and then probably have been able to elude her. But it
was otherwise decreed, and down she came upon us, firing a shot when
about three miles distant, which struck the water a ship’s length and a
half astern of the _Bell_, on the port side. That shot was potential,
carrying conviction to all that our vessel was doomed, and that we
were about to fall into the hands of an enemy. It required but little
reflection to make us painfully conscious of the fact, the whole truth
of which flashed upon us as suddenly and unexpectedly as the booming of
the distant gun which seemed to announce our doom; in an instant, as
it were, paralyzing all thought and feeling. Directly on the firing of
the gun Captain Frisbie rose up, and turning his face towards the bow,
looked first at his ship and then at the sail, saying,--“Well, I guess
you’ll heave to, now!” and ordering his men to “clew up the crotchet
sail,” and back the yards, we quietly waited for the decision of our
fate.
We had just sailed through the heat of the tropics, and having been ill
for more than three weeks, and of course weak and easily perturbed, the
firing of the gun sent me directly into the cabin; but, through Master
Charlie, I learned that in about ten minutes after I had left the deck,
the steamer, which proved to be the _Florida_,--a pirate, officered
and manned by the rebels of the Southern States,--came round our stern
to the port side, and when within two ship’s lengths of us ran up the
rebel Confederate flag,--taking down the “stars and stripes,”--and
hailed us. On being answered, and told whither we were bound, we were
ordered to strike our colors; and no answer being returned, nor any
movement made to carry the order into execution, there came a second
and more peremptory summons, with which Captain Frisbee complied,
and our colors were struck! The steamer, meanwhile, made a circuit
once or twice around us for purposes of observation, very much in
the same way that a cat toys with a mouse, after having made sure of
her victim. Having no efficient armament, we were powerless; yet she
did not raise the rebel flag until she had us broadside under her
guns,--a circumstance which indicated, as clearly as anything could,
the conscious guilt of these pirates, and their extreme care lest
they should be caught in some trap, thus getting their retribution
somewhat in advance of their calculations. The pirate captain then
sent a boat alongside, with a prize-master; who, accosting Captain
Frisbie, exclaimed--“You are my prize.” The captain replied--“But this
is English property.” “I can’t help that,” rejoined the prize-master;
“I must obey my orders.” Captain Frisbie then said--“Is this the way
you take English property on the high seas?” “Yes, sir!” was the
reply; “Lord John Russell has recently said that if English subjects
put their property in United States vessels, they must look for pay
to the Confederate Government.” The prize-master then told Captain
Frisbie that he must prepare to go on board the steamer, while he took
possession of the ship; and on being asked what was to be done with the
passengers and crew, the officer said they were also to be taken on
board, but that all private property should be saved, and after taking
what they wished from the _Jacob Bell_, they should burn her.
There being no appeal from this _ex cathedra_ decision, or rather
doom, our captain went below and directly made preparations to leave.
In a few minutes after this another boat coming from the _Florida_,
in charge of one of their doctors, our crew were immediately
taken on board, and we were only allowed the time taken for their
transshipment,--which could not have exceeded half an hour,--to gather
up a few things and get ready to follow.
Complying with the suggestions of our faithful and kind colored
steward, I gathered together the few things that were in the drawers
of my state-room, and throwing them hastily on my bed, tied them
securely in the counterpane. I also put the few books which were in my
state-room into a small calico bag; and notwithstanding my confused and
nervous state, had sufficient self-possession and forecast to take a
small hand-trunk, in which I put a change or two of linen, and a few
night-clothes; being careful to add flannel articles, warm stockings,
boots, and gloves for the cold weather on our coast, together with our
toilet articles. To these I also added some pocket-handkerchiefs, one
or two books valuable from association, a few pieces of jewelry, and
some other articles, which, together with the little money we had with
us, would be absolutely necessary in case we should never get any more
of our luggage. We were bidden to make all haste, and the little trunk,
together with two Chinese baskets,--the only articles that we could
take with us,--were soon ready; our trunks of clothing for sea use
having been also got out and placed in the cabin, along with our two
emigrant-looking bundles. There was no time to give any attention to
one’s personal appearance, and it certainly would not be entertaining
to know what kind of plight I was in when taken on board the pirate.
I have already alluded, however, to the fact of having been more ill
than usual during our passage through the Atlantic tropics; and my
lady-readers can readily imagine how they would look _en déshabillé_,
with a loose gown of cotton print, an old shawl thrown about their
shoulders, and a straw hat in place of a bonnet.
The boat came for the third time, when, with the captain, his wife,
and child, we were transferred to the pirate. Happily for us the wind
had continued to lull, and although there was something of a swell,
there was no heavy sea running. For this we were thankful;--but to be
fastened into a chair, and hoisted over the ship’s side by means of
a rope-tackling, into a boat, and then to be re-hoisted in the same
manner, and lowered upon the deck of an armed vessel prepared for
piratical warfare, amid the gaze of brutalized and vicious men, whose
vulgar, jeering expression of countenance was enough to make any one
shrink back involuntarily with loathing and indignation, was a severe
test for a woman, who, both in body and mind, was greatly weakened by a
long voyage and months of disease in the tropics of the East; and yet
all this was but a slight foretaste of what was to follow.
The flag of the _Jacob Bell_--claimed as a prize by the pirates--was to
be taken with us on board their vessel; and Captain Frisbie laying it
over the chair in which his wife and I were to be placed, in order to
be hoisted into the boat, we gathered the loose folds into our laps, so
as to partly cover us. The gleam of comfort and sunshine that flashed
through my confused brain when my eye first rested on one particular
star in those folds can never be forgotten. It was still a star of hope
and trust, making even the heart of a feeble and unprotected woman glow
with an emotion of joyful pride in that she was permitted to suffer in
a cause like that of constitutional liberty; which, next to our holy
religion, is more sacred and precious than anything else for which man
can be called upon to lay down his life.
When we were alongside the _Florida_, the officer who had us in charge,
while re-arranging the chair in which we were to be re-hoisted on
deck, proposed substituting the rebel flag in place of our own; but
our captain, with prudent tact, in an apparently indifferent manner,
said,--“This will do just as well,”--whereupon, no objection being
made, we were again wrapped in our own colors, which was doubtless
the last honorable service of the flag of the ill-fated _Jacob
Bell_. On being lowered to the deck of the steamer, and freed from
our chair-tackling, I heard a rather cultivated voice on my right,
saying,--“Please take my arm, madam.” I saw nothing, for my first
glance at the deck and the rough men with upturned faces rudely gazing
as I hung in the air, had caused both head and eyes to droop. But
woman’s natural instinct, when in a position of fearful suffering
and rude exposure, to readily and gratefully receive civility and
protection,--no matter from what source it may come,--led me to
accept the proffered arm, and suffer myself to be conducted by
Captain Maffit,--the leader of this band of buccaneers, (as he proved
to be,)--to his cabin. This was done with a cool _sang-froid_, and
also with the patronizing, host-like air of one about offering the
most agreeable hospitality. Soon the whole of our party were in the
cabin, which we were told was at our disposal; and also that the
captain’s private state-room, leading out of it, could be occupied
by one of the ladies. It was, however, only appropriated by us for
one night, it being dark and close; and we therefore abandoned it
for sleeping-purposes, greatly preferring the cabin lockers, where
mattresses--some of them taken from the _Jacob Bell_--were placed, and
the remainder of our party slept.
The knives of our crew were taken from them, and they made to sign a
paper that they would offer no resistance while on board. There had
been great haste made in transferring us, in order to follow up another
United States vessel then in sight; and it being late in the afternoon,
it was not possible for them to pillage the _Jacob Bell_ and destroy
her that night. A prize-crew was therefore put on board of her, and
told to steer in a certain direction, while we were to steam after the
“Yankee,” as they sneeringly called her; but during the evening she
managed to get out of their range; and as ours was a case of misery not
admitting of a wish for company, we silently rejoiced, giving thanks
that the prowling marauders were foiled of their prey. Our speed was
then lessened, and in the morning we were again in the neighborhood of
the _Jacob Bell_.
That was a fearful and strangely eventful day to us; and although we
had been told that our private effects would be saved, I had many
doubts in regard to the fulfilment of the promise. During the first
part of the night previous I plainly heard, from the place where I
was lying, portions of a conversation held by the ward-room officers,
who had been on board the _Jacob Bell_ for the purpose of seeing what
plunder could be taken from her. They were making out an inventory of
what things were to be brought on board the _Florida_ for their own
use; and it being evident that they were arranging for a long day’s
work, I feared that the captain would perhaps demur to the trouble of
saving and bringing on board the packages belonging to us; it, however,
never once occurred to me that they might open and plunder them there.
Before leaving the _Jacob Bell_ our captain obtained permission of
the prize-master to leave his steward and a waiting-man on board, who
were to look after his effects and our trunks of sea-clothing; which,
with our bundles and a small basket of stores that they were to put up
for us, we hoped to receive on board the _Florida_. In the morning,
on learning that Captain Frisbie had already gone on board the _Jacob
Bell_, I handed Captain Maffit, as requested, a list of the packages we
had in the ship, which having read, he returned to me, saying,--“Mrs.
W---- I cannot take all your things on board; for we have not room,
and we cannot have much on deck, as it will prevent the free working
of the guns.” I then said, “It will be very hard, Captain Maffit, to
lose all our packages; for those in the hold contain the greatest and
best part of our wardrobes, besides some household supplies, and many
other articles of rare value; and we were assured by your officer when
taken that all our private effects should be saved.” “Yes,” was the
reply, “but it is quite impossible in this case; and you must take
what you most need. I shall then allow you more than is usual in such
cases.” After this conversation I mentioned to Captain Maffit the
fact of my having a small insurance on my property, but remarked that
I was not sure of its being good for anything in this case. At his
request I then handed him the policy, which he read and returned to me,
saying,--“Yes, that is a war risk.” In a few moments after, he asked
to look at the policy again; and once more having conned it apparently
with great care, remarked, “Yes, your policy is good in this case, and
I am surprised that any one will attempt to travel with valuables in
these times without being properly insured. I advise you to leave the
insured packages. They are not numbered, and you can take whichever
parcels you please, only be sure to leave twenty packages, for if
you do not, your policy will be contested.”[43] In this seemingly
disinterested manner he advised me what to do; telling me he could
not save our property, but at the same time appeared to deplore the
necessity of the case, and expressed his regret at what I must suffer
in seeing the destruction of so much of the nice, curious, useful, and
valuable. He thus so completely deceived me that I never once suspected
his object; nor that his officers would be allowed to break open and
plunder our property. He then told us that he was going on board the
_Jacob Bell_, and would send the few packages that we were to have on
board his vessel. I directly handed him the meagre list, saying,--“Then
all the rest, Captain Maffit, must burn and go down with the ship.” I
also interceded in every possible way that I could, in order to save
Master Charlie’s large box-like trunk, which was not insured, but was
of great value to him, and was in the hold with my packages. I was
the more anxious on this point for the reason that Charlie’s father,
who was a missionary in China, was sending him home to be educated;
and the package contained books and articles of value, the loss of
which the lad would feel during his whole course of study. Charlie was
much perturbed when we were first taken; and from agitation failed to
secure the effects which he had in his state-room. It therefore became
necessary that he should go on board and look after them, and another
boat putting off for the _Jacob Bell_ soon after Captain Maffit had
gone, I obtained permission of the officer in charge for him to go on
board also.
While I was still remaining on deck the crew commenced bringing
boat-loads of property from the ship, although I am not positive
that any luggage had as yet been sent. In a short time, however, to
my amazement I observed some of the officers and crew of the pirate
coming over the side of the vessel, each with an armful of things
from my packages. There was bed and table linen, towels made up and
in the piece, articles of my wardrobe, silver plate, a box of rare
china, two chairs from Canton, Oriental table-mats, a box of India
sweetmeats, our stores, and two cases of claret; which, with the
sweetmeats, were marked with my name in full. There were also boxes
of spools of sewing-silk and sewing-cotton, boxes of pins and of
dress-trimmings, and various other articles required for personal or
housekeeping use. There was therefore no mistaking the fact that our
boxes, trunks, camphor-chests, and camphor-chest of drawers had all
been rudely broken open, and plundered by these outlaws. The _officers_
of the _Florida_--the so-called boasted _chivalry_ of the South--were
now shamelessly enacting the burglar and shop-lifter, directly before
my eyes; and carrying my property in tumbled, confused masses,--some
of it dragging and trailing on the deck,--into their ward-room. I
saw Lieutenant Reed with a huge armful of cotton-sheeting and unmade
table-linen,--grasping at the same time in one hand my cake-basket,
(the wrappers of which being torn off it was exposed to my gaze,)--rush
from the side of the ship to the ward-room entrance; when seeing that
I was watching him in mute astonishment, he dropped his eyes and
hurried below like a detected thief. This scene of pillage continued
for several hours. Finally, Charlie returned, and related to me the
scenes he had witnessed on board the _Jacob Bell_. He saw my packages
brought up from the hold of the vessel, and also saw the _officers_ of
the _Florida_ split and break them open, rummaging their contents, and
tearing off wrappers of small parcels in the greatest eagerness, which
if not desirable, or such as they could not make use of, were thrown
on deck and trodden under foot in a manner which would have almost
made an ordinary pirate blush. Laces, and other delicate fabrics,
were thus used; and a valuable bonnet was soiled and destroyed in the
same manner. Private papers also, and photographs of friends, met a
like fate; nothing, in fact, escaped their shamelessly sacrilegious
hands. There was a large number of curious, rare, and elegant Oriental
articles,--presents from friends and acquaintances in the East,--beside
many that were not only handsome, but useful, which I was bringing home
as presents for friends; all of which met the same fate. One officer
was seen examining and helping himself from a box of fans,--taking them
out one by one, and fanning himself, to see which he liked the best.
Another laid hold of a hoop-skirt, and putting it on, tripped over the
main-deck with a grace and delicacy doubtless unattainable except by a
representative of Southern _chivalry_!
While this scene of rioting and plunder was going on, Charlie begged
of them three times to save his large trunk, but was told that nothing
from the hold could be taken on board the pirate; nor was his package
brought from the hold until he left the _Jacob Bell_ to return to
the _Florida_. Then some of our crew, who were still remaining on
board the ship, saw it brought up, broken open, and plundered in the
same way they had served mine.[44] But to cap the climax of this
scene, a fat pig,--one of the animals remaining of the _Jacob Bell’s_
supplies,--was killed on her main-deck in a most barbarous manner, and
pieces of the creature being savagely cut from its sides, the marauders
took such portions as they desired, while the entrails were thrown
about the deck, where the blood had been permitted to flow in every
direction, and in which articles of my wardrobe, expensive fabrics,
family relics, and souvenirs of friends left in the East, were also
thrown, and mingled with the clotted mixture in the most offensive
and disgusting manner. After witnessing this, Charlie returned on
board the steamer, and approaching me with teeth firmly set, while
indignation flashed from his eyes, exclaimed in an undertone, “I never
was so mad in all my life! O! it was a fearful scene; I shall never
forget it;” and afterwards added--“I hope yet to meet them with a gun
in my hand!” I was frightened as well as surprised to see the gentle,
quiet boy wrought up to such a pitch of indignation; but that scene,
together with the compulsory piratical cruise of five days and nights
which followed, seemed to arouse and mature in the boy all the noble
and brave qualities of the man. He only wished that we could meet one
of our cruisers, and have an engagement with her; declaring that he
would gladly serve his country by going to the bottom, if the steamer
could be sunk, carrying down with her the piratical officers and her
crew; nor would the boy ever acknowledge to an emotion of gratitude to
Captain Maffit for the common personal civilities we received; but if
it was referred to, always said that he saw too much of the plundering
scene to desire anything but the destruction of the captain and his
officers.
There was now much confusion on the deck of the pirate. It was nearly
four o’clock, P. M., and trunks, stray articles from our packages,
boxes of the ship’s stores, and some of our own, together with a few of
the sailors’ chests, bags of sailcloth filled with clothing, and boxes
of tea, were lying about in every direction. The pirates had become so
completely engrossed in their work of plunder as to be oblivious of all
else; and before they were aware, the _Jacob Bell_, with all her sails
set, was fast drifting against the _Florida_. That was a terrible
scene. She seemed a sentient being,--“a thing of life.” There was a
little swell, but thanks to a kind Providence, no sea; and as she came
down on the _Florida_ her prow seemed absolutely to stretch eagerly
forward as if in haste to avenge her wrongs. The fires of the steamer
had been banked, and as there was no steam to enable us to back off,
for a time there was general confusion; until finally I heard Captain
Maffit giving orders to put oil and tar on the fires. By this time the
jib-boom of the _Jacob Bell_ had become entangled in the fore-rigging
of the _Florida_, and broken the ratlines; when there was an attempt
made to cut it away,--all on board of her being congregated at her bow
for this purpose. The crew of the _Jacob Bell_, as well as those of the
_Florida_, assisted by means of spars in keeping the former out of the
way; but she finally came up with greater force, getting the jib-boom
under the main-top-mast stay, but doing no serious damage. We very
soon, however, got up sufficient steam to move a little out of the way.
To say that this was a scene of imminent peril can impart but a faint
idea of the overwhelming consternation and dismay which we suffered
during these moments of intense anxiety and terror. I was already in a
pitiable condition from the alarm and agitation which a consciousness
of extreme exposure produces; and not having yet recovered from the
shock received on finding myself in the power of lawless men, this new
and crushing terror seemed to subdue and benumb every faculty.
As soon as the pirate had become disentangled from our vessel, our
captors having placed combustibles in three places on board of
the _Jacob Bell_, she was fired about four o’clock, when she was
abandoned, and we steamed away from her neighborhood. The distressing
circumstances under which we were placed rendered it impossible for us
to feel the sublimity of the spectacle she presented while the flames
crept steadily up her sails, spars, and rigging, until she became a
pyramid of fire. Not that our thoughts dwelt so much upon the wicked
destruction of property, as upon the fact that we were being completely
cut off from home and country; and knew not how, when, nor where we
could look for release. To us the last sight of our noble ship a little
before her masts fell, when with her sails and rigging all a-blaze,
she was quietly floating on, impressed us with a scene of awful
and melancholy grandeur. The sublimity of such a spectacle depends
altogether upon the circumstances under which we behold it. Our ideas
of things are merely relative, and depend for their moral effect upon
the power of association. Hence, the contemplation of any wide-spread
ruin may be the height of the sublime to a disinterested spectator;
but to another, whose worldly interests, or, as was feared in this
instance, whose life is depending upon the character and extent of the
calamity, it can be nothing else than a scene of horror and dismay.
The next day (Saturday, the 14th) we had a fair wind, and the steamer,
having only enough coals for two days’ use, was put under sail, and
her screw raised upon deck. The armament of the pirate was very heavy:
there being six sixty-eight pounders, three on each side of the ship;
and two immense guns, called chasers, one at the bow and the other
at the stern, which were said to be one hundred and twenty pounders.
There were about[45] one hundred and sixty men on board beside the
officers, the latter consisting of the captain, a sailing-master, four
lieutenants, four midshipmen, and two physicians, besides three or four
minor officers. The small arms of the _Jacob Bell_ which were taken
enabled some of the crew to supply themselves with fine cutlasses,
and thus complete their accoutrements. The lieutenants and physicians
were very young men, none being over twenty-five years old; and the
midshipmen were quite young striplings,--mere boys in fact,--but some
of them hard-looking youngsters. Both the lieutenants and midshipmen
were evidently regarded as belonging to the class called “Southern
gentlemen!” There was a Reed from Charleston, and a Floyd from
Georgia,--(of the former I shall say more by and by,)--both of the best
blood of the South, and the rest of the officers were also reputed to
be of highly respectable lineage. One officer--a young man from Mobile,
whose name I have forgotten--became so intoxicated, on some brandy we
had among our stores, that he was put under arrest, which was the only
case of discipline that occurred while we were on board. The steamer
was shockingly dirty, and in an almost filthy condition,--the deck
affording no place where a woman could remain with unsoiled skirts.
Indeed, excepting in the most miserable hovels of the foreign poor in
the outskirts of the city of New York, I never met with such disgusting
untidiness and want of cleanliness. With these surroundings personal
neatness was out of the question, and my garments became shockingly
soiled and unsightly. But _malgré_ this pitiable plight, with all its
attendant exposure to the vulgar gaze and criticisms of the low and
degraded men composing the officers and crew of the _Florida_, it was,
with the exception of an occasional emotion of contempt and righteous
indignation, entirely lost sight of in the absorbing thought and prayer
for a speedy deliverance from such an unhallowed atmosphere.
Saturday wore slowly away, and after another fearful night the Sabbath
found us again chasing one of our vessels. On such a ship as the
_Florida_ any appearance of properly regarding the day would have
presented an anomaly,--the habits of both officers and men, and the
iniquitious business in which they were engaged, being so thoroughly in
keeping with their surroundings. The crew were at work as usual during
the whole day, some scraping the masts, and all on the _qui vive_,
and animated with the idea of bagging and burning another “Yankee.”
Captain Maffit did not know that it was Sunday until the fact was
alluded to by one of our number in his presence, which caused him to
exclaim,--“Sunday! Is it Sunday? I did not think of its being Sunday!”
The burden of our prayers during the day was for the final escape of
their anticipated victim, which proved to be a schooner, and got rid
of her pursuers by skilful management, obliging them to tack ship
repeatedly. The crew of the pirate, not being experienced sailors, were
awkward and slow in performing their duties. They were mostly composed
of the lowest class of Irish, with some few English and Scotch,--most
of whom had formerly been in the rebel army, and were mere tyros in
nautical matters. Captain Maffit told us, however, that he had drilled
them at the guns until they could manage them with great celerity and
effect.
Early in the afternoon Captain Frisbie, on coming below, remarked
that we were gaining on the schooner, and he feared she would be
taken; and at a later hour Captain Maffit descended into the cabin
with a countenance beaming from delighted exultation, and, throwing
something of the theatrical into his air and manner, seated himself,
remarking,--“Well, I fear there is ‘one more unfortunate’!” He did
not proceed with the quotation, but it was continued in some of our
hearts by the supplication,--God forbid that she should come “to her
death” by you and your lawless crew! It is almost needless to add that
we secretly rejoiced and gave thanks, when, as the shadows of evening
gathered around us, the expected prey escaped.
When the _Jacob Bell_ was captured we had nearly used up all our fresh
animal food, and there was but little poultry and one pig remaining.
To the killing and disposing of the latter I have already alluded. The
few fowls left were also killed and taken on board the _Florida_, and
we were once served with a dish of them, and once with the fresh pork.
With these exceptions, we lived almost entirely upon salt-beef and
pork, together with a little rice and hard biscuit. Captain Maffit said
he gave us the best he had, and professed to regret not having better
for the ladies. Our food, however, was of little moment, no one having
the heart to expend any thought upon our common sea-fare, and some of
us being too ill to care for such matters. We suffered most from want
of good water,--that on board the _Florida_ being condensed steam, and
evidently produced in a defective apparatus, which imparted to it so
strong a taste of kreosote that one could scarcely swallow it. Indeed
we feared that it was injurious, and dared not drink it; nor was the
tea and coffee made of it at all palatable.
All but one of the packages promised me from the _Jacob Bell_ were sent
on board; that contained a valuable article,--a present from a French
baron, formerly one of the French legation at the court of Peking, but
now Commissioner of the Imperial Customs at Fuh-chau. Captain Maffit,
on being told of its elegance and rare value, and that it was in a
part of the ship near my state-room where it could be readily found,
and transferred with our trunks of sea-clothing, and Captain Frisbie’s
luggage to the steamer, said, in an earnest manner, “Mrs. W----, you
shall have the box, and I will see that it is sent on board”; but on
returning to his own vessel very coolly said that he had looked for
it, but it could not be found. I was not sensible of any feeling of
indignation in relation to the pillaging and wanton destruction of our
property. A kind Providence had ordered that the stunning effect of
our unexpected capture should render me unfit to care for or realize
the loss of my property; nor, with the exception of some occasional
agitation,--when a view of our terribly fearful position, and the
perils with which we were environed flashed across my mind,--was I
conscious of any emotion, but was much like Dr. Livingstone when the
lion’s paw was on him,--“without feeling.”
Captain Maffit had said, when we were first taken, that we would be
only two or three days on board his ship, as he would probably, by
that time, meet some friendly vessel, and be able to transfer us,
but if not, he would take us into a neutral port; yet day after day
we continued sailing in every direction, and unfurling the flag of
whatever nation best suited his purpose, in order the more successfully
to play the corsair. In the course of three days the debilitating
effects of the increasing heat warned me that we were again seeking
the heat of the tropics; and nearly at the same time the fact that
the captain feared to attempt entering a neutral port, and that in
essaying to do so we must run the risk of an encounter with some of
our Government cruisers, began to dawn upon my excited imagination,
making the possibility of an early release from our unhappy condition
seem more remote than ever. This unnatural excitement was followed by
great depression,--a sort of despair,--under which nature gave way,
and, like a child, I could not allude to our painful situation without
weeping. Despair is said to give courage to the weak, but it failed
in my case; and when the day closed, and the gloom of night settled
around us, the fear and anxiety which seemed to make up the sum of
those dismal hours may be perhaps imagined, but no description of their
terrors can be given which will not fall short of the reality. A soul
suspended in Dante’s “Limbo” could scarcely be more hopeless. We could
not disrobe, but laid ourselves down to rest in the clothes worn during
the day. Sleep was far from being the “sweet restorer,” and every
movement of the armament above, or noise about the ship, roused me,
until everything seemed one confused and horrid nightmare. One night,
after slumbering a short time, I was awakened by an unusual noise on
deck, and as the wind had increased, and we were sailing more rapidly,
I feared that a heavy gale was approaching. The most courageous rarely
desire a repetition of a storm at sea, and the timid are always
agonized in the prospect of one. Belonging to the latter class, an
undefinable sensation of fear and dread seized me. There was no light
in the cabin, but quickly rising and groping in the dark as best I
could, I reached the companion-way, and on climbing the stairs, a man
stationed at the top, armed _cap-à-pie_, forcibly reminded me of our
captivity. Fearful of giving offence, I asked the sentinel to excuse
me, and added that I was very timid at sea, and observing that the wind
seemed to be increasing, feared that we were about to have a gale. The
man,--who was one of the rough crew,--after civilly assuring me that
all was right, and that we had only a fine breeze, added, “I knows
you’s not fit for the likes of this.” There was real kindness of heart
in the tones of Erin, and I was sorry that the “likes of him” should be
engaged in so desperate a business. I afterwards learned that several
of the crew from Mobile and New Orleans, in private conversation with
the crew of the _Jacob Bell_, deplored being on the _Florida_; but said
that they had been compelled to ship so as to get food, as they were
without employment and without means. Moreover they expressed regret
that they also were not to be transferred to a neutral vessel, or to be
landed at some port from whence they could go to the North.
I knew nothing of Captain Maffit’s antecedents, nor of his standing
when an officer in our navy. I learned, however, from Captain Frisbie,
that he had at one time been attached to the coast-survey, and that
his charts were much used by mariners. The captain himself valued
them highly, and spoke of the author as having been one of the first
officers in our service in point of ability. When we were first taken
on board the _Florida_ he simulated the air and tone of an honorable
man, and stoutly disclaimed all wish or intention to war on women and
children, telling us that all our private effects should be respected
and saved for us, and was altogether so civil that although we could
only look upon him as a sort of buccaneer, we were led to hope that he
might still retain enough of the elements belonging to the character
of a _civilized_ man of the nineteenth century, as to really mean what
he said; in other words, we did not suppose that it was a part of his
code of chivalry to impose upon a defenceless woman and child. In
this, however, we were mistaken; for with the exception of a box of
Captain Frisbie’s china which was stolen by the ward-room officers,
and the general pilfering practised by the pirates upon the powerless
crew of the _Jacob Bell_, Master Charlie and I _were the only persons
plundered_; and Captain Maffit, notwithstanding his fine words, seemed
to make us the special objects of his treachery. He affected to
regret the necessity which he was under of destroying our captain’s
favorite ship, and pretended to be sorry that the charts and most of
the nautical instruments belonged to the latter, as the orders of his
Government were imperative, and obliged him to take them as his prize.
He was very sorry such misfortunes should fall upon men like Captain
Frisbie, but assured him that all his private property should be
saved; and all of it, consisting of several trunks and chests, beside
a number of well-filled sailcloth bags, and four boxes of china, were
taken on board the _Florida_. All of this property but one box of china
(to which reference has already been made) was safely transferred to
the Danish bark. The officers probably kept the one box of china by
order of their captain, so as to give the impression that they had not
expended all their purloining energies upon us.
While on the deck of the _Florida_, the day after the burning of the
_Jacob Bell_, one of the officers did the agreeable by offering to
lend me books to read; but looking at him with surprise, I directly
exclaimed,--“Books! it would be impossible for me to read just
now,--neither in body or mind am I equal to the task!” It certainly
betokened a great degree of impudence and hardihood, for one to assist
in the plundering of our private effects, and then unblushingly attempt
to recommend himself in this way to my regard. I also had, during
the same day, a few words of conversation with another officer in
regard to the rebellion; in the course of which he made some malicious
remark that led me to say,--“We do not hate you as you seem to hate
us. Why is it that you at the South hate the North so much?” With the
coolest effrontery he answered,--“We have more reason to hate you.”
The tone and manner in which this was said was too much even for the
benumbed senses of a powerless and defenceless woman, and I quickly
answered,--“No, you have not, sir. I feel that I am suffering in a good
cause, nor should you hear a murmur from me were I strong and in good
health.” Thus to beard the lion in his den was unquestionably imprudent
and unsafe; but the unmitigated arrogance and impertinence of one who,
from what we had experienced, could be classed only among shoplifters,
was rather too much for our sense of honor to let pass unrebuked, and
the words leaped from my lips like the “stir of an unbidden thought.”
Although outwardly civil, it required no extraordinary power to
see plainly that, could it have served their purpose and benefited
their cause, it would have cost them no pang to act the pirate to
the _death_, as they were acting it to the life; but to carry their
feelings of hatred to such an extent, they well knew, would array the
whole civilized world against them.
Captain Maffit boasted of his daughter, and related the circumstance
of the capture of the rebel vessel--in which she was going from Nassau
to Charleston--when attempting to run the blockade. He commented
with great _goût_ upon her bravery, in telling the Government
officials--before whom she had to appear in New York--that she
acknowledged no Government but that of the Southern Confederacy, and
no President but Jeff. Davis. He also told us of a letter written by
his youngest son, in which the hopeful youth requested his father
to “send him a Yankee’s head with the teeth all in!!!” The boy, we
understood him to say, was only _five years old_![46] None of us
dared to give utterance to the thoughts suggested on hearing of so
savage a request from such a child,--if, indeed, the child ever made
it;--and it is difficult to think that Christendom, in this age of the
world, is capable of producing a father willing thus to advertise the
disgustingly precocious ferocity of his little son. The bloody request
indicated the Nero-like training to which the child had been subjected,
and the malicious hatred he was already capable of bearing towards his
kind. If this is the child, what will be the horrid proportions of the
man?
From a late New York paper--for the perusal of which we were indebted
to Captain Maffit--we learned of the noble generosity of the merchants
of that city, in sending a ship loaded with food to the starving
Lancashire operatives; and on observing the name of A. A. Low,
Esq.,--the owner of the _Jacob Bell_,--as one of the most active in
that work of mercy, we involuntarily looked around the cabin, the
finishing of which, with all its furniture and fixtures, told us what
was too true, that to England--or rather to a class of her grasping and
unprincipled merchants and cotton-brokers--Mr. Low owed the loss of his
ship, and we our fearful perils and captivity. Whatever else may be
forgotten, it certainly is to be hoped that when the history of this
war is written, the noble and truly Christian manner in which the New
York merchants returned good for evil will not be lost sight of.
Captain Maffit was much in the cabin during the day, making himself
very facetious, and was always full of anecdote. He often mentioned
incidents in regard to the rebellion,--giving us what he termed the
truth as to the condition and suffering of the North,--which, not then
knowing his true character, and having been months without news from
the United States, gave us painful uneasiness.
On the afternoon of Monday, February 16th, we were in hot pursuit of
a bark that bore the French flag, and early in the evening, getting
within hailing distance, brought her to without firing a gun. She was
boarded by some of the piratical officers, and proved to be what her
colors indicated; and being direct from the island of Martinique, bound
to Havre, the pirates neither gained a prize nor were able to dispose
of us by transferring us, as passengers, on board of her. This was a
sad disappointment, for we had hoped she might prove a neutral vessel
bound to some of the West India islands, and be willing to take us to
her port of destination. But another long night, with its doubts and
fears and weary hours, came and passed away, when, with heavier and
more hopeless hearts, we greeted the morning of the 17th, the evening
of which day was to bring the wished-for release.
As usual, the beardless midshipmen, armed to the teeth, were constantly
ascending aloft and prowling at the mast-head, or on some of the
higher parts of the rigging, watching for more prey; when, early in
the afternoon, some one of them on the lookout descried a sail far off
upon the horizon, which, from the whiteness of her canvas, as well as
from its arrangement, was pronounced a “Yankee.” The _Florida_ was
put speedily on her track, but not until late in the afternoon were
we sufficiently near the stranger to enable Captain Maffit to play
the decoy; which he essayed to do this time by unfurling the English
flag at the mast-head. The bark then ran up the colors of Denmark,
and, courting our vicinage, seemed for a time to be bearing towards
us. At the sight of the strange flag, (for strange it was, indeed, not
one of the officers or crew of the pirate being sufficiently versed
in nautical matters to tell to what nation it belonged,) there was an
extraordinary fluttering among these highly cultivated and well-read
(?) men, which finally ended in their referring to the officers of the
_Jacob Bell_ for the desired information. This point being settled by
our not overlettered “Yankee” captain, and the bark not appearing to
be in any hurry about courting our acquaintance, but, if anything,
gradually shying off from us, Captain Maffit sailed more directly for
her, and in the evening, after eight o’clock, fired one of his guns at
her, which brought her to, and an officer boarded her.
Captain Maffit had told us in the afternoon that, should the bark
prove to be a Danish vessel, bound for any of the islands, he should
transfer us to her in case they would take us as passengers. We were,
therefore, in no ordinary state of solicitude,--not daring to hope for
our release, for fear of meeting with another painful disappointment.
The boat returned from the bark, and, after a little consultation
among the pirates, was despatched a second time. It was already quite
dark, and we, to all outward appearances quiet and composed, were
sitting in the cabin,--the prey to thoughts and emotions which cannot
be expressed,--silently awaiting our fate. When the boat returned for
the second time, Captain Maffit held a consultation with several of
his officers on a retired portion of the deck; after which, descending
into the cabin, he told us that the vessel was a Dane, bound for the
island of St. Thomas, and that her captain had consented to take us as
passengers. Then, turning to Captain Frisbie, he said: “What do you say
to taking her?” “I say take her; any port in a storm,” quickly replied
the captain. It was then after nine o’clock. The sky was clear, and
a few stars were shining, but there was no moon. There was, also, a
sharp breeze, and considerable swell in the ocean; enough, certainly,
to impress us with a sense of the formidable character of the adventure
which we were about to make, the fearfulness of which now flashed upon
our minds in all its appalling reality. It was like being on the roof
of a house with all on fire beneath and around. Liberty, and life,
for aught we knew, both depended upon facing the danger, and it did
not take us long to understand and weigh the dreadful contingencies
of the case; but, trusting ourselves to the guiding hand of that same
kind Providence who had hitherto protected us, and hoping to reach the
deck of the friendly bark in safety, we gathered up the remnant of our
luggage, and prepared to take our departure.
We have already mentioned the fact that the officers of the _Florida_,
although _high-minded Southern gentlemen_, were possessed of decidedly
large organs of acquisitiveness. True to their natural or cultivated
instincts, they could not let us depart without practising a little
more of their honorable handicraft. When our luggage was brought out
and piled on deck, just before our departure, we were assured that
all of it should be safely sent on board. We had an undefined fear
that some of it would be retained, but dared not intimate to Captain
Maffit that we should like our things taken on board _first_, for fear
of giving offence, and involving ourselves in some new trouble. We
therefore concluded to patiently await the issue of events; but, as
will be seen in the sequel, our fears proved well founded.
The reader must not lose sight, in what follows, of the fact that
Captain Maffit had all along led me to believe that from kindly motives
he had done all he could to protect us and our effects; and that, could
he have controlled the pillagers, our packages would have remained
untouched to burn with the ship. He also asserted that he had allowed
us to have all the luggage he could, and that he greatly regretted
we should have been so unfortunate. With these things in mind, the
conversation held with him as he accompanied us from the companion-way
of his cabin nearly to the bow of the vessel, where we were again
to be lowered into the boat that was to receive us, will be readily
understood; but we had little idea of the extent of the deception which
he was again to practise upon us.
After remarking, as we passed the pile of luggage, that we had placed
ours there, hoping it would all reach us safely, Captain Maffit
said,--“It shall all be sent on board, Mrs. W----.” I then expressed
my thanks for his civilities, adding, that we were grateful for
his protection, and that our friends would also be thankful that,
in our misfortunes, we personally had fared so well; whereupon he
remarked something about it being very disagreeable for ladies to be
situated as we had been, and expressed himself as extremely sorry
for not having been able to make us more comfortable; after which
I remarked,--“Captain Maffit, if you are taken, we hope you may be
treated as well as you have treated us.” Responding quickly, he
said,--“I hope I shall not be taken at all.” I dared not, in the midst
of such surroundings, say, as I must, if a reply were given, that I
wished him to be taken, and therefore was silent. Meanwhile we walked
several steps, when the captain, divining my thoughts, continued,--“But
I suspect, Mrs. W----, that you wish I may be taken?” This said
interrogatively, enabled me to escape from my dilemma by the ready
rejoinder,--“I shall not pray for it, Captain Maffit.” He then assisted
me to disembark, and shaking hands, said, with great show of fervor
and sincerity,--“Goodbye, God bless you”; which piece of acting being
concluded, I was soon over the side of his disgusting vessel and being
let down into the boat. This undertaking was no less perilous than our
transfer to the bark, nor did we face either with undaunted nerves.
It was now half past nine o’clock. The steamer was rolling and
pitching a good deal, and the wind had increased until the white caps,
notwithstanding it was quite dark, were plainly visible. I shall not
soon forget the terror experienced while suspended over the boat. Her
appearance was as frail as a cockle-shell, and being tossed about
like a feather, she was continually rising and falling with the sea,
which rendered it difficult to keep her properly off from the steamer.
While thus suspended, Captain Frisbie, sailor-like, clambered over
and down the side of the vessel, and getting into the boat, called
out,--“Now let her down easy.” Down went the chair for a moment, and
then came the cry,--“Hold on! be careful! get her more from the side of
the ship.” For a few moments a state of rest, with both mind and body
_in suspension_, followed; then, again, was heard,--“Now, easy”; then
up came the boat, reaching nearly to the top of the ship’s bulwarks;
but directly I was lowered, and, being freed from the chair, grasped
nervously the gunwale of the boat, and sitting down, awaited in dread
and dismay the hoisting and lowering, in the same way, of the captain’s
wife. The sailors then assisted Master Charlie and the captain’s little
son down the ship’s side; and all being ready, we left, and were rowed
half a mile in the darkness, through the breaking sea, while our boat
leaked so much, that, although there was constant bailing, the water
gained on us so fast that it was soon over the tops of my slippers, and
I could feel and calculate its increase of depth. I observed that the
sailors used great care, aiming to keep the boat in such a position
that she would ride the waves as safely as possible; but Charlie,
who sat near the bow, said that we twice came near shipping a sea and
being submerged. On approaching the bark we found her also rolling and
pitching fearfully, and the idea of getting sufficiently near her side
to be taken on board seemed truly formidable; but, by God’s blessing,
we also passed safely through this peril, and finding ourselves on her
deck, were relieved of an herculean weight of anxiety and hopeless
fear, such as no one can feel or understand unless made to pass through
the same terrible ordeal.
The name of the bark was the _Morning Star_, then eight days from New
York, and bound to the island of St. Thomas. She was in reality what
the pirates first suspected, a “Yankee”; but having been recently sold,
and placed under Danish colors, was saved from sharing the fate of the
_Jacob Bell_. Like most of the small trading-vessels plying between New
York and the West Indies, she was prepared to carry a few passengers,
and had a nice cabin, with comfortable accommodations. We were received
and welcomed on board in the most humane and kindly manner,--the
captain directly giving up his private cabin, and having it arranged
with two berths, for the use of Mrs. Frisbie and myself. Indeed, this
little _Morning Star_, (Sterling, master,) proved herself a whole
constellation of light, hope, and joy to us; her captain also proved a
_sterling_ commander; nor shall we cease being grateful to her officers
for their warm-hearted civility and kindness.
It was after eleven o’clock when all the luggage was said to have been
brought on board. The breeze had still further increased, and we were
put under sail as speedily as possible; the captain and officers of the
bark meanwhile congratulating one another on having escaped unscathed,
and evidently glad to widen the distance between themselves and the
pirate as fast as possible. I reached the deck of the bark not only
with wet feet, but with the lower part of the skirts of my garments
in the same uncomfortable condition. In my hand-trunk, it will be
remembered, had been put what would make me comfortable in such an
emergency; but the steward, after looking for it among the luggage as
thoroughly as the confused state of things and the imperfect light of a
lantern would permit, reported that it could not be found. We therefore
conjectured that it was hidden under the pile of luggage, and would
probably come to light in the morning. Happily Charlie was enabled,
soon after we reached the cabin of the bark, to get at his trunk of
clothing designed for the homeward voyage, and brought me a pair of
his woollen hose, which were a comfortable substitute for my wet ones.
The little trunk, however, not being found, I was compelled to seek
another night’s rest in the same condition of personal discomfort in
which we all slept on board the _Florida_.
In the morning my hand-trunk was still missing. It was secured by two
locks; and, as already mentioned, was full to repletion with what was
then to me more valuable than gold, and without which I must not only
suffer, perhaps disastrously, from the cold weather on our coast, but
be deprived of the means of making a respectable toilette. Through all
the destruction of our property I had not thus far shed a tear for any
of the many sacredly associated treasures destroyed so ruthlessly by
men worse than Goth or Vandal; but the fact of the complete destitution
to which I was reduced, in being deprived of all means of personal
tidiness and womanly comfort, was too much, and the tears could not be
repressed. My two trunks used for sea-clothing on the voyage were sent
on board, but nearly all the supplies they contained when we left China
having been worn and soiled, had been put into a large clothes-hamper,
which was one of the lost packages. I was not certain, even, that I
had clothes enough remaining to give myself a respectable garb; nor
was it convenient, while on the bark, to get at the trunks in order
to make a proper examination. Fortunately, on retiring I had placed
my wet stockings where they dried during the night, and, as a dernier
resort, was glad to be able to put them on again in the morning.
Finding, also, in the counterpane bundle a forlorn old delaine frock,
only intended to be worn in times of wretched sea-sickness, (when one,
in order to recover, must be on deck in all kinds of weather,) it was
soon appropriated, enabling my personal appearance to be only that of
bare decency; while Miss Flora McFlimsey’s complaint of “nothing to
wear,” (minus only the poetry,) came home to me in all the eloquence
of _unadorned_ truth. Perhaps some of the ungrateful Floras among my
countrywomen might have learned a valuable lesson by being put to
such straits; but I could not be wicked enough to wish any of them a
taste of my experience unless they make themselves morally monstrous
by claiming to sympathize with the Southern rebels, and boast of their
disloyalty to our Government. For the thorough-bred Southern woman,
with her rebelliously educated heart, I have much pitiful regard; but
none for the shameless Northern defamer of her Government and the land
of her birth.
On further search it was discovered, that besides the small trunk,
the outlaws had kept a small package, well tied up with a rope, which
contained a folding-chair, designed for sea-travel; a large fur
rug from the Amoor River, which had been purchased at Fuh-chau, for
comfort and protection from the cold as we neared the coast; an East
India pillow, covered with fine matting, and a most desirable article
in the tropics; and a silk sun-umbrella, having an outer covering of
white calico, after the fashion of the East, together with several
other articles of value from association. On leaving the pirate we had
little thought of losing the trunk, but did have some fears that the
roped package might be retained. When obtaining permission for the
folding-chair to be brought on board the _Florida_ with the rest of our
luggage, I was careful not to tell Captain Maffit that it was made of a
piece of oak taken from the old English man-of-war _Minden_, on board
of which Mr. Key, during his imprisonment, wrote the “Star-Spangled
Banner”; but Charlie, on returning from the _Jacob Bell_ to the steamer
on the day of the plundering, said that Captain Frisbie had very
unwisely informed Captain Maffit of its origin, and that when it was
about to be taken into the boat in order to be transferred, Captain
Maffit forbade it, remarking, that it could not be taken off the
_Jacob Bell_. I had, however, been very intent upon saving an article
so sacred by reason of its associations, and had asked a subordinate
officer of the _Florida_--who went on board the _Jacob Bell_ at about
the time his captain left her--if he would be so kind as to see the
chair sent on board. Not knowing the order of his superior in regard
to the matter, he did so; and being on deck when it was handed over
the side of the steamer, I gladly pressed forward to receive it; to
which no one objecting, (I think Captain Maffit was present,) it was
deposited with other articles in our cabin. The fact that, during the
afternoon we were in pursuit of the Danish bark, Captain Maffit had
informed Captain Frisbie of his hoping, at about night-fall, to get us
taken on board as passengers, led us to make some little preparation
towards our desired departure; and while Charlie was engaged in
arranging and tying up the package, (already described as containing
the chair,) Captain Maffit entered the cabin, and after looking
thoughtfully at the boy for a few moments, said,--“Why, Charlie, you
are beginning early to prepare for leaving.” I then repeated what we
understood he had said to Captain Frisbie, remarking, that we thought
it the better way, in order not to cause any delay, to be partly in
readiness; that the fur rug would, in my delicate state of health, be
an important article of comfort in helping to shield me from the severe
cold as we approached our coast; and that nearly all the articles
in the package were necessary to our wants. He said nothing more,
but sat some minutes longer, regarding our movements in thoughtful
silence. I watched his countenance narrowly, and in spite of the mask,
at other times so effectually worn, read his thoughts so completely to
my satisfaction, that the moment he went on deck I said to my young
friend,--“Captain Maffit does not mean we shall have these things.” We
did not, however, allow ourselves to think that he could be so cruelly
contemptible as to retain them by stealth. All the articles, except
the chair, were doubtless appropriated to his own use; and the latter,
if not destroyed, was probably kept as a trophy, which, in connection
with the loyal people of the North, will be made a subject of abuse and
wanton ridicule.
The fact that the following incidents, which occurred during the first
two or three days of our capture, did not really open my eyes to the
character of the man with whom we had to deal, may seem extraordinary;
but fright and anxiety, together with my unprotected and helpless
position, had rendered me very timid, and strangely stupefied my
faculties.
In giving Master Charlie’s description of the plundering scene, I have
spoken of the articles discarded and thrown on the deck of the _Jacob
Bell_ by the marauders. Some few of these articles were picked up by
the boy, and Captain Maffit being near, told him that anything thus
procured could be presented to me, and be accepted, without injuring my
insurance. On returning to the _Florida_, he repeated the same thing
to me; and just then seeing a new table-cloth, with a dozen napkins
to match,--(which I recognized as belonging to my trunk of table and
bed linen,)--hanging over the rail, or side of the companion-way, I
said,--“And are these, also, for me?” “No, those belong to the ship,”
Captain Maffit quickly replied, and soon after they were taken to his
cabin. Captain Maffit’s table, where we were entertained, was also
found ornamented, at every meal, with my very nice and rare Oriental
table-mats. There were two sets, each of a different style; and both
kinds were indiscriminately used at the same meal. The silver taken
from the _Jacob Bell_ was also used at our table, while mine, as I
shall show presently, was kept in the ward-room. Some who admire
and sympathize with the self-styled gentlemen and polished officers
commanding the rebel piratical vessels, may perhaps regard the placing
so many familiar objects before us as only an evidence of their high
breeding and kind desire to make our surroundings as pleasant and
home-like as possible!
One day, when speaking of our losses and remarking on the pillaging,
Captain Maffit, after saying that he could not control his officers nor
prevent it, related how, at the time, one officer came to him, after a
package of Oriental articles had been broken open, and told him that
“now was the time for him to get a beautiful present for his daughter”;
and how he replied to him,--“When I want to make my daughter a present
I’ll pay for it.” To appreciate these incidents one should have seen
the fine acting, and the very proper emotion to suit the sentiment,
expressed in the captain’s face. A few days after our arrival in New
York, an old Southern friend--a native of Charleston, and a branch of a
family in high position in that city--informed us that Captain Maffit
married a widow, Mrs. Reed, of Charleston, who was a Laurens, and of
one of the most opulent families of that city. Lieutenant Reed is her
son, and therefore Captain Maffit’s step-son.[47] This young Lieutenant
Reed superintended the officers who broke open and plundered our
property. After seeing a part of our silver carried into the ward-room,
and mentioning the fact to Captain Maffit’s steward that some of the
spoons were very valuable to me from family associations, and that I
should like to get them, he told some one of the officers our wishes,
but quickly returned, merely remarking, that Lieutenant Reed had
ordered our silver taken into the ward-room, and from his manner we
readily understood that it was useless to beg further for anything.
Captain Maffit was undoubtedly in collusion with Lieutenant Reed, and
not only ordered him how to proceed in the plundering, but directed
that all the valuables should be taken into the ward-room, where they
remained until we left the steamer. There is no question in my mind
that the box, containing the valuable article from Peking,--which
Captain Maffit coolly told me could not be found,--was at that time in
Lieutenant Reed’s possession, and being safely kept for the captain,
who was thus enabled to present his daughter not only with a beautiful,
but a magnificent gift. The fact, also, that my small hand-trunk was
well secured with two locks, and that I was careful to take it with me
into the boat which conveyed us from the _Jacob Bell_ to the pirate,
probably inclined Captain Maffit and his officers to fancy that it
might contain costly articles of jewelry; and the former, led by his
cupidity, ordered it not to be delivered on board the Danish bark.
Had Captain Maffit, instead of masking his designs under this cowardly
hypocrisy, at once told us that all the property on board the _Jacob
Bell_ was his prize, and that the most desirable and valuable things
we had he and his officers wanted and _would_ have, he would have
commanded our respect as a straightforward, out-spoken, fearless
enemy,--a sort of honorable freebooter,--who, although a traitor to the
best of Governments, had not yet fallen so low as to be beneath either
pity or contempt.
The captain of the _Morning Star_ said that we were about two hundred
miles north of the island of Sombrero when he took us on board; and
as we had a fair breeze during the 18th and 19th, on the morning of
the 20th we passed this island, together with that of St. Johns,
entering the harbor of the island of St. Thomas a little after
noon of the same day. The scenery in the vicinity of the harbor is
attractive and lovely; and the little town--which is most picturesquely
situated--consists chiefly of one long street lined with buildings,
with an occasional dwelling perched on the bold hill-side or distant
mountain-slope. The houses are mostly of brick, of one story, and are
built and tiled in the Dutch fashion. I had neither heart nor strength
to go on shore, to view and enjoy the scenery to better advantage;
nor did I, in all my travels, visit any other place with such painful
indifference. The desire and hope of being spared to get safely out
of the tropics, and to reach home and friends, absorbed every other
thought; and having entire possession of my being was the burden of all
my reflections. Therefore, waiting only to learn how and when we could
proceed on our journey to New York, we remained on the bark.
Although annoyed at the necessity, it seemed highly imprudent in
Master Charlie and I--unprotected as we were--to risk sailing further
under any but a neutral flag; and learning that the _Delta_--an
English mail-steamer of the Cunard line, plying between St. Thomas and
Halifax--was in port, and would leave on her return voyage, _via_ the
island of Bermuda, the next day at twelve o’clock, we hoped to take
passage in her. Although this was a circuitous route, and the winter
passage from Bermuda to Halifax was usually very tempestuous, if not
perilous, it nevertheless seemed to be the most direct and safe way for
us to get home, unless we chose to remain in the tropics a month or two
longer.
On the morning of the 21st, Mr. Edgar, our consul at St. Thomas, a
gentleman of pleasing address and refined manners, came on board to
see if any of the crew of the _Jacob Bell_ would ship for a year’s
cruise in the United States man-of-war _Alabama_, which, together with
two other of our vessels of war, was then lying in the harbor. The
_Alabama_ left at noon of that day, and steamed off in pursuit of
the _Florida_. An opportunity presenting itself, I informed Mr. Edgar
of our situation and wishes; whereupon he kindly advised us to take
the Bermuda and Halifax route,--it being our best course,--and kindly
begging me not to be anxious, nor to trouble myself any further as
to our arrangements, said he would see that our passage was promptly
secured.
Our few preparations were immediately made, and Captain Frisbie,
who had gone on shore with Mr. Edgar, returning with our tickets,
accompanied us to the steamer. Our shabbily forlorn and _bizarre_
personal appearance, as we went on board the _Delta_, would have struck
strangers as irresistibly amusing, had not the tale of our misfortunes
preceded us. Our trunks were much soiled and marred,--one so much so
as to render it necessary to be lashed together with a rope; and not
having had an opportunity to pack away the contents of our counterpane
bundle, nor the little bag of books, but taking them as originally
tied up in our state-room into the boat with us, it may be safely said
that we made up a picture, the _tout ensemble_ of which must have been
painfully ludicrous, and as thoroughly emigrant-like as any one could
desire.
Through the humane and thoughtful kindness of Mr. Edgar, we were put
in charge of Captain T. W. Walker, who, being on his return from
India to his home in Boston, had also taken passage in the _Delta_. It
was a gracious Providence that placed us in the care of one so kind
and gentlemanly, and who did so much to change the current of our
thoughts, then so sadly perturbed by the perils and anxieties through
which we had passed. We shall ever hold him in grateful remembrance
for his inestimable services and unfailing attention throughout the
voyage, with its numerous detentions, until he had placed us safely
in the hands of friends who met us at the Boston wharf. We also found
Captain Hunter--the commander of the _Delta_--to be a noble specimen
of the generous and polite English sailor, and indefatigable in his
efforts to make us comfortable and happy. This kind interest in our
welfare continued after our arrival in Halifax; and we shall not forget
his active exertions in regard to our comfort on board the _Arabia_,
nor his thoughtful message in relation to us, which we learned after
leaving for Boston, he had sent to Captain Anderson and his officers.
I have spoken in another place of not having been able, while on
board the friendly bark, to make any change in my clothing; nor was
that luxury enjoyed until we went on board the _Delta_. We were there
provided with a large state-room, where our luggage, bundles, and all,
were deposited and examined; and for the first time (it being the ninth
day after our capture) I made a thorough change of toilette.
We had a fine run, and were soon out of the withering heat of the
tropics, and beginning to feel the life-renewing and bracing influence
of a more northern atmosphere. With a change of climate our courage
also revived, and we dared to look once more towards the dear home-land
with grateful hope; losing our thoughts in the fond expectation of
again meeting those from whom we had so long been severed, and to whom,
it at one time seemed, we never should return.
The morning of the 24th of February found us within sight of the island
of Bermuda. When a few miles out a pilot came alongside, and an old
colored man was soon piloting us into the beautifully picturesque
harbor of St. George. The keen, vigilant eye of this man seemed to
pierce beyond the narrow, but lovely passage, we were entering; and
when standing upon the upper deck,--his tall and straight figure, with
head thrown back, and his dexter-finger pointing, now to the right
and then to the left,--strongly reminded us of an oracular seer. The
water of St. George’s harbor is very pellucid, and the beautiful coral
formations at the bottom can be distinctly seen as you pass to the
shore. Our stay at this island--which is a gem of the sea--was only
for twenty-four hours, but long enough for us to visit the beautiful
scenes in the vicinity of St. George, and to be charmed with the mere
_coup d’œil_ we took of them. Under more auspicious circumstances we
should have been glad to remain there a month, as one of its opulent
citizens kindly proposed we should do, in order to recruit for our
further voyage to Halifax. Carrying wherever we went, with the story of
our misfortunes, the first news of the destruction of the richest prize
that had been taken by the rebel pirates, we naturally became objects
of peculiar interest, and while on our little sight-seeing excursion to
the settlement and vicinity of St. George, met with acts of civility
and delicate kindness that deeply touched our hearts.
There were two long, low, lead-colored, sidewheeled English steamers,
designed for running the blockade, lying in the port when we arrived;
one of which was already loaded with merchandise, and was getting up
steam to leave for Charleston as we sailed for Halifax. There was a
rumor that she had caused a great dearth in the article of ladies’
gloves, her owners having purchased the entire stock of the little town
of St. George to take to the ladies of Charleston.
Our passage from Bermuda to Halifax--especially through the Gulf
Stream--was very boisterous, and attended with some peril. During
our entire voyage from China--with the exception of the gale we
encountered at the Cape of Good Hope--we experienced nothing comparable
to it, and sometimes it seemed as though our little steamer must be
engulfed. But Captain Hunter was an experienced and ready officer,
evidently possessing, even to the uninitiated in nautical matters,
that _savoir-faire_ in his profession, which, united to his calm
self-reliance and frank, gentlemanly bearing, banished anxiety, and
gave us the greatest confidence in his ability and skill. The winter
is too severe and stormy on this route for women, unless compelled
by necessity, to incur the hazards of the season; hence I was the
only female among the passengers. Our fellow-travellers were few, and
mostly English gentlemen. Some of them were in Her Majesty’s service,
and seemed amazed at the pirate-like treatment which we had received
from such brave and high-minded _gentlemen_ as, they supposed, were to
be found among the officers of the “Confederate privateers!” Captain
Walker had formerly been in our naval service, and between him and
our English friends there was every day more or less earnest, but
calm and reasonable, conversation in regard to the unhappy state of
our country, as well as to the position and relative merits of the
controversy between the North and South; but no unkind remarks were
made, nor did I hear even so much as a bit of pleasantry repeated, at
the expense of our Government, in my presence.
One officer, after questioning us somewhat closely and hearing our
story, expressed surprise, remarking that he, as well as most of his
countrymen, had got the impression that the “privateers”--as the
English persist in calling them--_never_ destroyed private property,
and were always careful not only to protect the passengers themselves,
but also their luggage. He also said that if our property was insured
in such a way that, by taking any part of it, the policy would be
invalidated, Captain Maffit--had he wished to do the upright and noble
thing--could have taken my silver, and some other articles which were
valuable from family and other associations, and presented them to
me. He considered that the conduct of Captain Maffit and his officers
was very unlike that of the noble English sailor; and that all the
particulars in relation to the destruction of our property, together
with the final stealing of a part of the remnant of what Captain Maffit
had given us, and promised should be sent on board the bark, ought to
be made known, as it would tend greatly to correct the impression
entertained by many abroad, and which had been gathered from the public
prints, respecting the character of the officers of these vessels.
At that time I was not aware of the deceit which Captain Maffit had
practised upon me in relation to my policy of insurance, and my right
to take what I could of the insured packages; and consequently could
not, as I do now, present the case in all its enormity. Nor did I know,
until I reached Boston, that the face of the document which I gave
Captain Maffit to read showed no war risk; and that had it been so,
instead of leaving what I might conveniently have had, it was my duty
to save all I could, and account for it to the insurers.
We found the weather extremely cold on nearing the coast of Nova
Scotia, but reached Halifax on the 1st of March, just in time to get
nicely housed in a comfortable hotel before the region was visited with
the severest snow-storm of the season. Here we were detained five days,
waiting for the _Arabia_, which, on her voyage from England, had met
with much bad weather, and was somewhat behind her time. Meanwhile our
consul, Mr. Jackson, and family, becoming acquainted with our case,
sought us out, and together with some of their pleasant English friends
did all they could to make our stay agreeable. We soon learned that Mr.
Jackson was very popular, and it was remarked to us by an Englishman
that he filled the office with credit and dignity, being all that the
position required,--and was not only a man of ability, but also a
gentleman of cultivated taste and refinement.
Mr. Jackson’s kind attentions to us ceased not until, following us
on board the _Arabia_ the morning of the 5th, he bade us good-by
and wished us a safe and speedy passage home. The _Arabia_ had
a large number of passengers, and for a little time the news of
our misfortunes, and the loss of the _Jacob Bell_ created quite a
sensation, and I was informed gave rise, on one or two occasions, to
some spicy conversation in relation to the rebellion, between a few
of our countrymen and some English gentlemen. But, as on board the
_Delta_, English army officers and gentlemen were surprised at what
we had experienced, and thought that ours must be an extreme case,
until informed that it was the opinion of one of the officers of the
_Florida_ that we might be thankful for having fallen into the hands
of Captain Maffit instead of the captain of the _Alabama_; as in the
latter case we would not have been allowed any of our luggage, but
merely the clothes we were wearing. On learning this, they had nothing
more to say in favor of such out-and-out pirates, but remarked that the
particulars in our case ought to be made known.
On the night of the 7th (Saturday) we were nearing Boston, but,
encountering a severe snow-storm, were obliged to stand off and blow
the whistle most of the night. Sunday morning, however, found us at the
entrance to the harbor. We could not have chosen a more inhospitable
morning to greet, for the first time, our home-land; yet, on going upon
deck, the view of the coast, though bearing an aspect cold, bleak, and
uninviting, brought joy and warmth to the heart, and words of thankful
gratitude to the lips.
We hoped to reach the wharf soon after breakfast, but on entering the
harbor a succession of _contretemps_ seemed to follow us. From some
cause we grounded, and it was not until noon that our friends--who
since early morning had been awaiting our arrival--could step on board
to greet and welcome us.
FINIS.
FOOTNOTES:
[42] Lawful and honorable privateering never admits of plundering and
appropriating the luggage and private property of the passengers found
on the captured prize and seamen, of whatever nation, committing such
outrages, are pronounced by all honorable men of the Christianized
world, as pirates. In view of this long-established truth I am obliged,
however I may regret the necessity of doing so, to give, at the outset
of this narrative, the _chivalric_ Southern officers, into whose
gentlemanly (?) hands I was so unfortunate as to fall, their only
appropriate name of _pirates_.
[43] Mr. W---- gave me a copy of my insurance policy a few days
before we left Fouchau, remarking at the time that, in case anything
disastrous happened, I must not trouble about my luggage. Not being
accustomed to business, and ignorant of the rights or duties of the
insured, when Captain Maffit said that he could not save my property, I
unfortunately repeated to him Mr. W----’s remark, saying, also, that I
had the impression it would injure the policy if I took any one of the
insured packages. The captain at once assured me that it was so, and
that unless I left the whole number named in the document, I would get
nothing. My loss was between two and three thousand dollars.
[44] Most of Charlie’s money, which was in Mexican dollars, was in this
package, and his father has since written him that the value of the
contents of the trunk was two hundred dollars. It also contained the
only mementos the boy possessed of his deceased mother.
[45] According to Captain Maffit’s statement.
[46] Since the above was written, a person who has some knowledge of
Captain Maffit’s children, has suggested to me that he may have said
_nine_ years, instead of _five_,--his youngest son being then about the
age of nine years; and, as we may have misunderstood him, I cheerfully
give him the benefit of the doubt, which, however, does not very
materially ameliorate the cruel character of the child.
[47] Lieutenant Reed was finally commander of the pirate _Tacony_, and
was captured near Portland. He is now in Fort Lafayette.
* * * * *
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Transcriber’s Notes:
Footnotes have been moved to the end of each chapter and relabeled
consecutively through the document.
Punctuation has been made consistent.
Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in
the original publication, except that obvious typographical errors have
been corrected.Project Gutenberg
A year in China : $b and a narrative of capture and imprisonment, when homeward bound, on board the rebel pirate Florida
Williams, Martha Noyes
Chimera48
College