A Yacht Voyage to Norway, Denmark, and Sweden 2nd edition

ct
 --Norwegian Post-Houses--Repair of the Roads--Preparations
 for Departure                                                    215


 CHAPTER XIII.

 The Yacht under sail--Jacko overboard--Fredricksværn--The
 Union Jack--Scenery on the Larvig River--Transit of Timber
 --Salmon Fishing--The Defeated Angler--Ludicrous Adventure
 with an Eagle--Result of the Angling Expedition--The Bevy of
 Ladies--Norwegian Dinner-Party, Singular and Amusing Customs     240


 CHAPTER XIV.

 Another Fishing Excursion--Landing a Salmon--The Carriole--
 Boats rowed by Ladies--Departure from Larvig--Christiansand
 Harbour--Return to Boom--Sincere Welcome--Angling at the
 Falls--The Forsaken Angler--A Misunderstanding--Reconciliation
 --St. John's Day--Simplicity of Manners                          260


 CHAPTER XV.

 Sailing up the Gron Fiord--Dangerous Swell--Excursion Ashore
 --Trout-Fishing--Mountain Scenery--Ant-Hills--Hazardous
 Drive--The Scottish Emigrant--Miserable Lodging--Condition
 of the Peasantry--A Village Patriarch--Costume of the Country
 People--Arrival at Fædde                                         287


 CHAPTER XVI.

 Return to the Yacht--Poor Jacko--Ascending the Stream--
 Description of the Fædde Fiord--Adventures of an Angler--Sail
 to the Bukke Fiord--The Fathomless Lake--The Maniac, and her
 History--The Village of Sand--Extraordinary Peculiarities of
 the Sand Salmon--Seal Hunting--Shooting Gulls--The Seal
 caught--Night in the North                                       303


 CHAPTER XVII.

 The Dangerous Straits--British Seamanship--The Glaciers
 of Folgefonde--Bergen--Habits of the Fishermen--The Sogne
 Fiord--Leerdal--Arrival at Auron--A Hospitable Host--
 Ascending the Mountains--The Two Shepherdesses--Hunting
 the Rein-Deer--Adventure on the Mountains--Slaughtering
 Deer--The Fawn                                                   336


 CHAPTER XVIII.

 The Sick Sailor--The Storm--The Lee-Shore--"Breakers
 a-head"--The Yacht in Distress--Weathering the Storm--Return
 to Bergen--The Physician--The Whirlpool--The Water-Spout
 --Homeward Bound--Scarborough--Yarmouth Roads--Erith--
 Greenwich Hospital--Conclusion                                   397




ERRATA.


 Page
  79, line 14, _for_ "Nelson," _read_ "Gambier."
  92, omit "to the eye."
 100, line 12, _for_ "Nelson's," _read_ "Gambier's."
 145, last line, _for_ "Braggesen," _read_ "Baggesen."
 165, line 31, _for_ "they had endured," _read_ "each of them had endured."
 201, line 9, _read_ "as here at Gottenborg."
 239, line 33, _for_ "immovably," _read_ "immoveably."
 243, line 6, _for_ "jibbed," _read_ "jibed."
 286, line 18, _for_ "everywhere," _read_ "ever where."
 327, line 10, _for_ "than me," _read_ "than I."
 338, line 31, _for_ "jibbing," _read_ "jibing."


 A YACHT VOYAGE
 TO
 NORWAY, SWEDEN, & DENMARK.




CHAPTER I.

 DEPARTURE FROM GREENWICH--THE HISTORY OF THE IRIS
 YACHT--SHEERNESS--HARWICH--UNDER WEIGH--THE NORTH
 SEA--SAIL IN SIGHT--THE MAIL OVERBOARD--SPEAKING
 THE NORWEGIAN.


I believe the old Italian proverb says, that every man, before he dies,
should do three things: "Get a son, build a house, and write a book."
Now, whether or not I am desirous, by beginning at the end, to end at
the beginning of this quaint axiom, I leave the reader to conjecture. My
book may afford amusement to him who will smile when I am glad, and
sympathise with the impressions I have caught in other moods of mind;
but I have little affinity of feeling, and less companionship with him
who expects to see pictures of life coloured differently from those I
have beheld.

At three o'clock on the boisterous afternoon of the 1st of May, 1847, I
left Greenwich with my friend Lord R----, in his yacht, to cruise round
the coasts of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden; and, although the period of
the year at which I quitted London was the one I most desired to remain
in it, and join, as far as I was able, in the pomps and gaieties of Old
Babylon, I did not like to miss this opportunity, offered under such
favourable circumstances, of seeing countries so rarely visited by
Englishmen, more particularly as the invitation had been pressed upon me
so unaffectedly and kindly, that I could not, with any reason, decline
it.

Dropping down with the tide, we arrived the same evening alongside the
guard-ship at Sheerness; and, being desirous of making ourselves snug,
and of landing two unfortunate friends whom we had originally promised
to send ashore at Gravesend, we made fast to a Government buoy, and
remained in smooth water till the following morning.

The "Iris" cutter belongs to the R.Y.S., and is the sister-vessel of the
"Corsair." She was built by Ratsey for the late Mr. Fleming, with whom
she was a great favourite, and for whom she won many valuable prizes.
From England to the Mediterranean, she safely bore her first master many
times; but wit