Another Friday, another list! This week, we follow up on last week’s list that was based on a discussion we had on Fratello Talks three weeks ago. In that episode, Robert-Jan, Nacho, and I discussed the ultimate decade for watches. RJ and I chose the ’90s as our favorite because new technology significantly improved overall production quality and shortened the design and engineering process. As a result, during the 1990s, most watch brands’ offerings got markedly better, ensuring that you can wear a watch from that era every day, even now. After highlighting five Rolex watches last week, we now turn to Omega. The brand became one of the defining names of the ’90s with a plethora of remarkable offerings. It’s time to find out what our five favorites are!
As we said last week, the ’90s defined a change in the watch industry. Mechanical watches took center stage again after taking heavy hits during the Quartz Crisis. Omega gained much momentum during the ’90s by introducing would-be classics and forming exciting partnerships. That’s why we wanted to put the spotlight on five of our favorite Omega watches from the decade. As I said last week, it’s not about the introduction date but, instead, whether these watches were part of the brand’s catalog during the 1990s. With no further ado, let’s jump in!
Omega Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2531.80.00
The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2531.80 marked the start of a new legacy within the Omega collection. Admittedly, we should say it was the quartz Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2541.80, as that came first and was also the watch that Pierce Brosnan wore as James Bond in 1995’s GoldenEye. But the mechanical version, widely known as the Bond watch, excites watch fans even more. Omega released the quartz Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2541.80 in 1993, replacing the Omega Seamaster 200M series. The new design of the Omega diver immediately stood out with its angular lines.
The mechanical Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2531.80 has a 41mm case with an 11.5mm thickness and a 47mm length. The case includes the signature bezel that has become one of the defining features of the SMP 300M series. Additionally, the blue dial features the refined wave pattern that fans love.
Add the standout stainless steel bracelet, and you get a design that has become an industry classic. For the first production series, Omega used the automatic caliber 1109 based on the ETA 2892-2. Soon after, however, the brand changed it to the caliber 1120. This 23-jewel movement was updated by changing the rotor’s weight and design to improve efficiency. It is a COSC-certified chronometer, operates at 28,800 vph, and has a power reserve of 44 hours.
It proved to be a reliable caliber for the Seamaster that still looks stylistically relevant, even three decades after its introduction. This Omega Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2531.80 is one of the decade’s classics that you can still buy for a reasonable price. You can find one in great condition for roughly €2.5k–4k. It will buy you an absolute classic that is still a joy to wear today.
Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. 3570.50.00
If you are a regular Fratello reader, you will probably know all there is to know about the Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. 3570.50. This version of the Speedy is a great version of the classic Moonwatch that you can easily wear every day. It probably comes as no surprise that the majority of the Fratello team owns one of these. The watch debuted in 1996 and stayed in production until 2020, when the current Moonwatch replaced it. The 3570.50 has the signature 42mm asymmetrical Speedmaster case with lyre lugs, which is a little over 14mm thick, including the Hesalite crystal, and measures 48.2mm from lug to lug.
The case is paired with the signature Moonwatch dial featuring three registers and white hands hovering over it. Inside the case, you will find the trusted Omega caliber 1861. This manual-winding movement was the follow-up to the classic caliber 861. Based on the Lémania 1873, it runs at 21,600 vph, has 18 jewels, and provides a 48-hour power reserve.
Finishing the look is a five-row bracelet. As Robert-Jan explained, Omega used different bracelets for the 3750.50 throughout its production run. The bracelets all look the same but have different details, such as adjusted tapering and different engravings. On top of that, Omega upgraded the clasp in 1999 to feature a push-button release.
The nice thing about the Speedy 3570.50 is that you can find it at very reasonable prices. Expect them to start around €4k and go up to €6k for one in great condition with box and papers. This sum will buy you a proper classic from the tremendous Moonwatch legacy.
Omega Seamaster 300 GMT “50th Anniversary” ref. 2534.50.00
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Seamaster, Omega released the Seamaster 300M GMT ref. 2234.50 in 1998. This GMT version of the Bond Seamaster presented a very different aesthetic compared to the diver. The watch still features the signature 41mm Seamaster case with a 13mm profile and a 47mm lug-to-lug. It also still has a 300m depth rating, like its dive-watch counterparts. The first big difference is the bezel, which features a 24-hour GMT insert with oversized numerals. The black-and-silver division gives the watch its standout presence.
Another major difference from the Bond watch is the dial design. The black dial has the signature wave pattern, but it features the hour markers that later also adorned the Seamaster Professional ref. 2254.50 that Nacho owns. However, this style debuted earlier on the quartz version (ref. 2264.50) of Nacho’s diver, which also came out in 1998, like the GMT. Additionally, the sword-style hands refer back to the classic Seamasters from the 1960s. A nice touch of color comes in the form of the red GMT hand and the red tip of the seconds hand. Lastly, the “GMT” text on the lower half of the dial is also red.
Get the original if you want a proper Seamaster
Inside the case, you will find the Omega caliber 1128. The automatic movement is based on the ETA 2892-A2 and modified to meet Omega’s standards. It beats at 28,800 vph and offers a 44-hour power reserve. It also lies safely hidden behind the commemorative 50th-anniversary caseback, which reminds you that this is not just any Seamaster. Finishing the look is the Seamaster bracelet that also came fitted with the Bond watch.
When Omega updated the watch in 2003, the main change was the bracelet. Omega decided to use the simpler Speedmaster-style bracelet, as you see in these photos, with a dual-push-button clasp that many fans prefer. But if you want the classic Seamaster style, the earlier versions are the way to go. Expect asking prices to start at roughly €2.5k and move up to €4k. That will buy you a great pre-owned GMT that still ticks all the boxes for daily wear today.
Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33 ref. 3990.50
Another Omega classic from the 1990s is the Speedmaster X-33. It’s one of those watches that you won’t forget after you have seen it. But once you hear the story behind it and realize that NASA astronauts still wear this Speedy, which came out in 1998, it only gets better. The X-33 was developed in collaboration with pilots and NASA astronauts to ensure it would meet the highest standards for space travel. The result was a quirky analog Speedmaster with a digital display that shows a wide array of functions useful during space missions.
The unique design of the X-33 starts with the 42.25 × 48 × 14.5mm case. The last number might make you think the watch feels pretty thick, but the domed crystal and the double-layer case back with its open-gapped resonance chamber for the alarm constitute much of that. The mid-case is not very thick at all, and it makes the X-33 a joy to wear. This Speedmaster also features a titanium bezel with a polished aluminum insert. On top of that, it has four pushers that control the watch’s different functions, along with the crown.
A recent surge in popularity
The movement that makes space travel a lot easier is the quartz Omega caliber 1666. In addition to the main time, it features the day and date, a chronograph, a second time zone, a countdown timer, and a mission timer (up to 999 days). But that’s not all. It also offers an 80dB daily alarm, a mission time alarm, and an additional programmable alarm. The Speedmaster X-33 was available with a titanium bracelet, a red Kevlar strap, or a black Coramide strap. While the titanium bracelet is lightweight, it makes the watch look more technical and somewhat chunky. That’s why you’ll see many enthusiasts wear it on a strap.
With the recent Artemis II mission, the Omega Speedmaster X-33 was put in the spotlight again. As Robert-Jan explained, the astronauts each wore a second-generation X-33, which debuted in 2001. This resulted in a run on the classic Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33, including the first-generation model. If you search for one, expect prices between €2.5k and €3.5k, depending on condition and whether it comes with the box and papers.
Omega Speedmaster ref. 3594.50.00 “Replica”
Our last pick is not a replica; it’s the Replica. Most of you will know what that means. It’s a Speedmaster introduced in the late 1990s that combines the 42mm Moonwatch case with the stainless steel bezel and Broad Arrow hands of the classic CK2915 from 1957. Add the deep gray dial, applied logo, and Hesalite crystal, and this mix of Speedmaster styles results in a remarkable neo-vintage watch that’s still a great daily wearer. Fratello’s Lex bought one after wearing Robert-Jan’s for a week and falling in love with it. He also explained that Omega later changed the Replica name to Relaunch for obvious reasons. But that’s not how we refer to it. We like to have fun with the former name, as it still surprises some watch fans who are less into Speedmasters.
The Speedmaster Replica came out in 1997/1998 and stayed in production until 2003. Despite taking after the first Speedmaster, it didn’t use vintage-inspired lume. As Lex mentioned, the Replica’s production period was well before the retro hype started, so Omega used crisp, clear Super-LumiNova on the hands and indexes for a contemporary look. It fits this ’90s classic because it also feels like a modern watch. The production quality is spot-on, making this a perfect daily wearer.
On a strap, the stylish side comes out
Also playing a part in that is the trusted manually wound caliber 1861 inside the Replica. It is the same movement that also powered the Moonwatch we featured earlier. It is a perfect powertrain for this stellar interpretation of the classic CK2915 from the ’50s. This rendition of the first Speedmaster has become a neo-vintage classic in its own right, though. As Lex also explained, the charm of the Replica is best experienced on a strap. Only then will the utilitarian chronograph display its stylish side to the fullest. It makes the Replica a wonderful daily wearer from the ’90s that you can pick up for roughly €3k–4.5k. It makes this a perfect fifth and last pick for this week’s list of classic Omega models from the 1990s.
Final thoughts on our favorite Omega models from the 1990s
There you have it — our five favorite Omega watches from the 1990s. We realize that it’s a Speedmaster- and Seamaster-focused list. As it happens, though, these are the two model lines that offer great classics you can still easily wear every day without worry. On top of that, they still look as relevant as ever. But it’s definitely worth checking out what Omega had to offer in the 1990s. There is plenty more to discover in the De Ville and Constellation Manhattan series. But as this is a list of our favorites, these are our choices. Now I want to turn the question to you. What ’90s Omega watch would you pick as your daily wearer? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list.