Upgrading a classic.Earlier this year, TAG Heuer unveiled the latest iteration of a longstanding model, the Monaco Chronograph TH20. It’s essentially a reissue of the Monaco ref. 1133 made famous by Steve McQueen, but not a one-for-one remake, and it’s the best to date.
The Monaco TH20 retains the familiar dial design and case outline, but the case has been reworked in both design and material. The square case is sleeker and more lightweight, being in titanium instead of steel. And it gets upgraded with the TH20 movement, instead of the ETA 2894-2 found in many earlier generations of the model.
Initial thoughts
I’ve always liked the Monaco, especially the ref. 1133 B. It’s a distinctive and arguably iconic design that evokes the 1970s. And it’s different from more famous 1970s designs, which are mostly sports watches with integrated bracelets. Though the Monaco is not particularly ergonomic due to the size and shape, it is cool.
The ref. 1133 remake has been in TAG Heuer’s catalogue for a long, long time with many, many iterations to date. Most earlier generations were powered by the ETA 2894 – an ETA 2892 with a module on top – that was a convenient solution for the left-hand crown.
The new Monaco is an all-around upgrade with the in-house TH20 movement and titanium case. The TH20 is a competent calibre with solid specs, albeit still very industrial, but good enough for the price segment.
The titanium case is a less obvious improvement in terms of design, but it improves the wearability of the watch by reducing its weight. A redesigned folding clasp works wonders for ergonomics too. And the restyling of the case gives it a more appealing aesthetic, though the overall form is still recognisable.
The Monaco TH20 retails for a little over US$9,000, which is decent as such things go. Still, for the price I would have liked the movement to be a little less industrial looking.
Ref. 1133 B
The new Monaco debuts in three variants. Traditionalists will like the blue dial since it’s faithful to the vintage original, but the watch is also available in modern guise. Two of them actually, one in metallic green and the other with a two-tone case.
Though the titanium-and-gold case is definitely not traditional, it is an interesting look that has its own appeal. That said, the gold bezel, crown, and pushers make it over 30% more expensive than the all-titanium version, which is not surprising given the gold price, but it leaves the value questionable.
The classic configuration remains the blue, modelled on the ref. 1133 B. The dial is pretty much a dead ringer for the original. Some notable elements transplanted from the original design are the unique horizontal hour markers and white border around the date.
The TAG Heuer, as opposed to Heuer, logo is clearly modern, but it blends in well. The dial even has a finely grained texture, though not quite as granular as the original.
While the dial stays true to the original, the case design takes after the Monaco Split-Seconds. It’s essentially a sleeker take on the original design, with reworked lines that give the case a bit more refinement.
The bezel has been narrowed, while the planes of the case are angled rather than vertical or horizontal. While the dimensions of the case are still 39 mm by 39 mm, just like the ref. 1133 B, the nips and tucks do wonders for the aesthetics.
The TH20-11 inside is part of a movement family that underpins TAG Heuer’s offerings. The TH20 is derived from the Heuer 02 movement of 2017, but heavily upgraded. It has most of the features expected in a modern movement, including a longish power reserve of 80 hours, vertical clutch, and column wheel.
The calibre architecture has been around long enough that the movement’s reliability is proven, making it a solid performer. The only downside of the architecture is thickness. That said, the resulting height is less pronounced in the square Monaco case than in the round Carrera case so it doesn’t detract from the design.
The movement sticks to the same decor found across the catalogue, which is basic decorative finishing plus a substantial quantity of printed text. I would have preferred less text and also less finishing, and instead a simpler decoration but with better detailing.
This construction has probably undergone all the upgrades possible, which means a new generation calibre is likely in the works. Given the strength of TAG Heuer’s technical bureau – underlined by innovative creations like the Evergraph – I expect the next-gen movement to be a big step upwards.
Key facts and price
TAG Heuer Monaco Caliber TH20-11
Ref. CDW2181.FC8360 (blue)
Ref. CDW2150.FC8360 (black)
Ref. CDW2180.FC8360 (green)
Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Material: Titanium; or titanium and 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: TH20-11
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 80 hours
Strap: Leather with folding clasp
Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at TAG Heuer boutiques, retailers, and TAGHeuer.com
Price: US$9,350 in titanium; and US$13,050 in titanium and rose gold (excluding taxes)
For more information, visit TAGHeuer.com.
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Facts Only
* The watch is the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph TH20.
* It is a reissue of the Monaco ref. 1133.
* The case is square, sleeker, and made of titanium.
* The movement is the in-house TH20, replacing the ETA 2894-2 found in earlier models.
* The watch is available in blue (titanium), black (titanium), and green (titanium) variants, or a titanium/gold variant.
* The TH20 movement has a power reserve of 80 hours.
* The dimensions are 39 mm in diameter by 13.9 mm in height.
* Material options include titanium or titanium and 18k rose gold.
* Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph.
* The watch is automatically winding.
Executive Summary
The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph TH20 is a reissue of the ref. 1133, updated with the in-house TH20 movement and a titanium case. The watch retains the classic design elements but features a reworked, sleeker square case made of titanium instead of steel. The TH20 movement is derived from the Heuer 02 movement but includes upgrades like an 80-hour power reserve, vertical clutch, and column wheel, offering solid performance for the price segment.
The watch is available in three variants: a traditional blue dial, a metallic green case, and a two-tone case (titanium and rose gold). The titanium option costs US$9,350, while the combination of titanium and 18k rose gold costs US$13,050. While the titanium case improves wearability by reducing weight and includes an ergonomic folding clasp, the movement is noted as being industrial, and some observers wished for less industrial aesthetic or more refinement in finishing.
Full Take
The presentation of the Monaco TH20 involves a deliberate negotiation between heritage and modernity, where incremental technical upgrades are framed as significant aesthetic improvements. The shift to titanium addresses wearability—a tangible ergonomic benefit—while the movement upgrade signals technological progression, yet both aspects remain rooted in an industrial aesthetic that resists pure luxury refinement. This creates a tension between achieving high-end value through material innovation and maintaining a recognizable, albeit somewhat blunt, design language.
The pricing structure highlights this tension; the choice of materials dictates a significant jump in cost, making the all-titanium option competitive yet leaving room for dissatisfaction regarding the "industrial looking" movement architecture. Furthermore, the nuanced presentation of the variants—the traditional blue versus the modernized metallic and two-tone options—suggests an appeal to different segments of the collector base. The discussion around potential future upgrades indicates an awareness that this iteration is not necessarily the terminus but a waypoint in TAG Heuer's ongoing technical trajectory.
The core implication here is how established iconography can be reinterpreted through material science rather than purely decorative evolution. Agency rests in recognizing that while material changes alter physical experience, the underlying architectural philosophy remains contested between functional minimalism and nostalgic form. What assumptions about legacy value are being successfully managed by the brand during this transition?
Sentinel — Human
The text reads like a detailed, personal review by an enthusiast, effectively blending subjective aesthetic commentary with specific, verifiable technical details about the watch upgrade.
