Cooking up the city
A new history of Mombasa shows how street food, colonial labor migration, and urban capitalism reshaped what—and how—Kenya eats.
Mombasa is a tapestry of rich history, vibrant culture, and renowned cuisine. The latter draws notably from Swahili, Indian, and Arab inspirations. Its famed gastronomy, displayed largely in the informal setting of street food, tells a charming story ...
Smart's work provides a comprehensive account of how Mombasa's food culture has been shaped by colonization, labor migration, and urban capitalism. The book sheds light on the transformation rural migrants underwent when adapting to urban working-class food systems, the impact of street food on urban politics, and the enduring gender roles in cooking.
The author's focus on Mombasa's street food industry highlights its importance in shaping the city's political economy and the tensions that have ...