The Cape Cod goes offshore.For those headed down the cape this summer, Hermès has unveiled an upscaled Cape Cod in brushed titanium. In some ways, it represents something of an ‘Offshore’ moment for the Cape Cod — a bolder, sportier version of one of the brand’s most emblematic models.
While Henri d’Origny’s original 1991 design has evolved over the years to become more of a unisex concept, the latest execution is more overtly masculine than any prior variant in both size and finish.
Initial thoughts
Watches like the Cape Cod illustrate the strides taken by a handful of so-called ‘fashion brands’ that have successfully crossed over into watchmaking in the past few decades — Hermès is a poster child of this movement.
The brand’s original designs — especially its emphasis on details like typography — and high-end movements have enabled it to make significant inroads with serious collectors, to say nothing of its broader success with its primary clientele.
Despite the light weight of the 41 mm titanium case, the upscaled Cape Cod has substantial wrist presence on account of its design, which emphasises the lug-to-lug distance — perhaps a bit too much. But thanks in part to its monochromatic case and dial — the vivid orange seconds hand is the only pop of colour — the personality of the Cape Cod transforms easily with a strap change.
Despite the strength of the Hermès brand and the obvious quality of the Cape Cod, the watch is priced well at US$7,900. That’s significantly less than both the Cartier Santos de Cartier LM in titanium and the Louis Vuitton Tambour, and while these rivals are more versatile thanks to their bracelets, the Cape Cod offers a superior movement.
The Cape Cod goes offshore
The Cape Cod’s ‘square within a rectangle’ design takes after an anchor chain and looks good in this bigger, bolder format. And it’s not just a larger Cape Cod — the design has been tweaked in subtle ways to create a more minimalist interpretation of the design.
The edges are more square and the case flanks are flatter, and case features a vertically brushed finish that contrasts markedly from the high polish of the mainline Cape Cod models.
One of the reasons the Cape Cod has become so recognisable is due to its famous double-wrapped leather strap, proposed in 1998 by designer Martin Margiela, who was then at Hermès. The titanium version lacks this detail, but the vibrant rubber straps that take its place are supple and cleverly detailed.
One detail that stands out in particular is the moulded cavity for the quick-release spring bar tabs. Ordinarily the tabs would be visible through the open lug design of the Cape Cod’s case — this is immediately apparent on the wrist. Fortunately, the straps feature a purpose-built cavity to conceal the tab from view, keeping the minimalist look intact.
The anchor chain motif that informs the case design also explains the design of the Cape Cod’s clever font. The influence is most apparent in the ‘8’ — and the ‘9’ to a slightly lesser extent — which takes the form of chain link. The other numerals riff on this motif, and the quality of the applied markers rewards close scrutiny.
This collection-specific typeface is also used for the date disc, visible at six o’clock. If there’s one aspect of the dial I’d change, it’s the ‘Automatic’ label at six o’clock, which feels generic and unnecessary.
Fashion’s fine watchmaking pioneer
With its vast luxury goods empire, Hermès is a brand that understands the risks of benefits of vertical integration better than most. The brand was something of a pioneer among so-called ‘fashion brands’ investing in watchmaking capacity back in 2006 — five years before Louis Vuitton’s acquisition of La Fabrique du Temps and a dozen years before Chanel’s investment in Kenissi.
That was when Hermès took a 25% stake in Vaucher, the movement supplier spun out of Parmigiani in 2003. As a result, Hermès secured a stable supply of high-end movements and proceeded to build out an enviable watchmaking programme that now rivals those of many established watchmakers.
The Cape Cod’s calibre H1912 is a perfect example of how far Hermès has come, and shares a lot in common with movements supplied to high-end brands like Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille.
While the bridges sport the repeating ‘H’ motif that has identified Hermès movements for several years, the technical details have been refined and the cal. H1912 now features a free-sprung balance — this same calibre featured a Triovis regulator when it was first introduced.
Key facts and price
Hermès Cape Cod Titanium
Diameter: 41 mm (wide)
Height: Unknown
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement: H1912
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours
Strap: Interchangeable rubber strap (black, blue, organge, or yellow)
Limited edition: No
Availability: At Hermes boutiques
Price: US$7,900 excluding taxes
For more, visit Hermes.com.
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