The breakaway is five minutes ahead of the peloton. It’s a strong group, and you’d better do your best to catch the four Bravur Team Heritage watches that are in the lead. They look strong and stylish in their historical team kit colors of St. Raphaël, Peugeot, Renault, and Mercier. Forget about the ultra-aero Lycra kit worn by the UAE, Visma-Lease a Bike, and Lidl-Trek pro cycling teams. Instead, you can look good in the colors of some of the most iconic teams of yesteryear. These new cycling-themed, very photogenic watches from Swedish brand Bravur beg to be worn with a matching wool cycling jersey. Do they itch? Maybe. Will you look soigné? Absolutely!
Bravur, the watch brand from Båstad, Sweden, should sponsor a cycling team. After having seen enough cycling-themed watches for the peloton, not only does “Bravur Pro Cycling Team” sound great to me, but it could also be the next logical step. Yes, it’s very expensive to run a pro cycling team. But what if Bravur got a financially solid co-sponsor, like Volvo? The name would be Bravur-Volvo Pro Cycling Team, and everything, from cars, buses, and Bianchi bikes (a Swedish brand now that Grimaldi Industry AB owns the famous, once-Italian bike maker) to kit from POC (also Swedish), would look amazing. On the wrist of every Bravur-Volvo rider could be a lightweight carbon version of the steel 37mm Team Heritage watch. Well, it’s just an idea. And after this glimpse of the future, let’s look at the history-inspired present in the shape of four retro cycling watches in the breakaway.
Now pulling the breakaway, the Bravur Team Heritage STR
Each Bravur Team Heritage watch has a three-letter code that the UCI (Union Cycliste Internationale), cycling’s governing body, uses for teams. Leading the group is the STR model, sporting a dial in the colors of the historic St. Raphaël cycling team jersey. In the late 1950s and early 1960s, the St. Raphaël cycling team, named after the sponsoring French apéritif brand, was a force to be reckoned with. Its directeur sportif, Raphaël Géminiani, led a squad with legendary rider Jacques Anquetil, the first five-time Tour de France winner. Anquetil’s nickname was “Monsieur Chrono” because he was an unparalleled time-trial rider. Between 1953 and 1966, he won the Grand Prix des Nations, a famous and grueling 140km time-trial race, no fewer than nine times. Strapping on the Bravur Team Heritage STR could make you feel like Monsieur Chrono, who was not just an exceptional cyclist but also a stylish bon vivant.
Pedaleur du charme
The Team Heritage STR and the three other iterations each feature a 37 × 44.6 × 11.4mm 316L steel case with an 18mm lug spacing. It houses a no-date version of the familiar Sellita SW200-1 automatic caliber. This 4Hz movement, hand-assembled in Båstad, Sweden, has a power reserve of up to 41 hours. The watch’s proportions are classic, making it small enough to wear comfortably while cycling. Yes, for a pro racer, it should be in carbon instead of steel, but that’s for the future. The watches available now will do just fine at your average speed of around 30 km/h. And you can even hit the showers with the watch after a ride because it’s water-resistant to 100 meters.
The Team Heritage STR has red and blue circles on its silvery-white dial, mimicking the jersey’s colors. For readability, the applied indexes at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock are filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9, ensuring legibility in all conditions. The small “cycling cap” detail at 6 o’clock is a not-too-gimmicky nod to the sport. This is a watch like a self-confident pedaleur du charme with an effortless coup de pédale.
Sitting in the slipstream of STR are REN, PEU, and MER
The Bravur Team Heritage REN takes much of its design from the characteristic yellow, black, and white pattern of the Renault team jersey, as worn by the likes of Bernard Hinault, Laurent Fignon, and Greg Lemond. The team, which dominated the sport between 1978 and 1983, was famous for its bold jerseys, which were easy to spot in the peloton and very much in line with fashion and design trends of the time. These are the colors worn by Laurent “Le Professeur” Fignon and Bernard “Le Blaireau” Hinault. Our American readers might also think of Greg Lemond, who won the 1983 World Championship while racing for Renault.
The watch’s sandwich dial reveals the Renault team stripes, and the spoke-like pattern creates the illusion of speed. A black perforated leather strap gives the Team Heritage REN a vintage look, while an optional rubber strap adds a contemporary and sporty finish.
“De Kannibaal”
The design of the Bravur Team Heritage PEU revolves around the famous pattern of Peugeot, the renowned French team ranked as the most successful in history. Its notable riders included Eddy “De Kannibaal” (“The Cannibal”) Merckx, Robert Millar, Charly Gaul, Walter Godefroot, and Tom Simpson. With an iconic checkerboard pattern, the team has become synonymous with cycling history, and the jersey acted as the team’s trademark from 1963 to 1986. The Peugeot jersey might very well be the most iconic in the history of cycling.
The black squares marking the hours and the small checkerboard pattern of the index at 12 provide a strong character and maximize legibility when reading the time. Each hour marker stands on a discreet green frame, a nod to the BP logo that appeared on the shoulder of the team jersey between 1956 and 1975. At the center of the dial, an embossed checkerboard pattern plays with shadows.
Be like “Poupou”
With its uniquely colored dial, featuring the iconic Mercier jersey’s purple and yellow, the Bravur Team Heritage MER is a prominent addition to the series. Founded in 1933, the French Mercier team holds the record for the most participations in Tour de France history and was known for having one of the most popular riders of the time on the team, Raymond Poulidor, or “Poupou.” The grandfather of current cycling star Mathieu van der Poel never won the Tour de France, but he finished as a runner-up three times. It earned him the nickname “Eternal Second”; however, he did win plenty of big races during his 17-year career as a pro rider.
The dial’s iconic purple coloring, seen from the early 1950s until 1969, reinforces the varied surface structures, consisting of a ring with concentric brushing paired with a heavily frosted surface. The yellow accent color, found on the team jersey sleeves and collar, is represented in the chamfered chapter ring. This is the most lovable character in the leading quartet and everyone’s favorite to win. But it won’t; it will come in second. The winner? I will tell you soon.
How do the Bravur Team Heritage watches handle?
All three models are outfitted with rhodium-plated hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova. The central seconds hands won’t light up in the dark, but they will look great against the dials in the light. When it comes to case finishes and straps, you have options. The Team Heritage watches, apart from the MER, are available in either a steel or a black PVD-treated steel case. You also have the choice of different FKM rubber and leather straps, as well as a Milanese mesh bracelet. The packaging is cycling-themed. Each watch comes in a hand-crafted leather case with oversized loops, doubling as a handlebar bag.
Overall, it’s a nice package. The different Team Heritage watches have distinct looks, good proportions, and reliable movements. The designs might not be for everyone, but Bravur did a great job transforming the team colors and graphics into watch dials. Other cycling fans with a feel for the sport’s history will notice the links to the different teams when you pull up for a group ride. Others — non-cyclists, I mean — could complement you on a striking watch.
Under the flamme rouge
When you visit Bravur’s website, the exclusive point of sale for the Team Heritage watches, you’ll see that their prices start at US$1,195 (excl. tax) / €1,395 (incl. 25% VAT) / £1,095 (incl. 20% VAT). All orders include free shipping worldwide. And when you’re on the site, why not check out Bravur Cycling Couture? You might want to complete the look with some crisp matching kit.
The winner of the sprint in this four-watch-strong group that managed to stay ahead of the chasing peloton is the Team Heritage PEU. But it was a photo finish. The MER finished second, with the REN in third. Unfortunately, the Heritage Team STR suffered a puncture just when it passed under the flamme rouge. Better luck next race.