Welcome to Taste Test, where every week our critic Jonah Flicker explores the most buzzworthy and interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back each Sunday for his latest whiskey review.
Old Forester’s 117 Series is a pretty popular collection of whiskeys consisting of limited-edition expressions in small bottles that vary in terms of maturation methods and other factors. The latest release might be one of the most intriguing, however, because this is the first release from the brand that is composed entirely of whiskey distilled at its small Whiskey Row location on Main Street in Louisville. And, as it turns out, it’s also a really good new bourbon.
The 117 Series was created in 2021, and over the years has included releases like High Angels’ Share, Whiskey Row Fire, Scotch Cask Finish, and Extra Extra Old. Old Forester is owned by Brown-Forman, the same parent company for brands like Woodford Reserve and Jack Daniel’s, and virtually all of the whiskey that you find in its bottles is distilled and matured at the company’s large distillery in Shively, just outside of Louisville. But Old Forester, like several other notable whiskey brands, also has a smaller “micro-distillery” on Main Street in downtown Louisville, the historic home of many of these legacy names. Just a small amount of whiskey is actually produced there (30 to 40 barrels per week—according to the brand—but the new 117 Series Triple Char stands out because it consists entirely of that liquid (it was matured in Shively, however).
The other reason it stands out is right there in the name, which does require some explanation. Triple Char means that the barrels the bourbon was aged in were charred for three times as long as usual, which is supposed to bring out even more flavors from the wood (the charring process is really what makes bourbon bourbon, after all). This is different from the double maturation process that something like Extra Old undergoes, which involves a second charred barrel, but is still meant to unlock more of the vanilla, oak, and caramel flavors this process adds to this whiskey, which, according to the distillery, is seven years old.
I think this bourbon is a success on both fronts—it is a testament to the skill and ability of the team at the Whiskey Row distillery, and an example of how a more intense char can affect the liquid. This is actually an interesting dram in the sense that it does sip a bit differently from what you might expect from Old Forester. There’s a crispness and a spiciness to the whiskey that is unexpected but pleasant, with some sharp notes of citrus, pepper, and sour cherry that lead as you sip. Those flavors are softened by some very classic notes of pecan pie, ripe plum, vanilla, coffee ice cream, and honey on the palate. And at a strong 115 proof, there’s a bit of punch that is assertive but not aggressive.
It would be interesting to try this bourbon with the regular barrel char alongside one of Old Forester’s core expressions to really see how the whiskey made at the Main Street distillery differs. But for now, this is the best example we have. Whether you’re a casual Old Forester fan or a 117 Series completist, give this new bourbon a try—bottles are available now at the distillery (SRP $65) and will likely start appearing on the secondary market soon.
Score: 88
- 100 Worth trading your first born for
- 95 – 99 In the Pantheon: A trophy for the cabinet
- 90 – 94 Great: An excited nod from friends when you pour them a dram
- 85 – 89 Very Good: Delicious enough to buy, but not quite special enough to chase on the secondary market
- 80 – 84 Good: More of your everyday drinker, solid and reliable
- Below 80 It’s Alright: Honestly, we probably won’t waste your time and ours with this