This Shaker classic will put your woodworking skills to the test.
As a design student, one of the first woodworking projects assigned to me was a Shaker side table. It seemed ambitious at first, although the challenge became less daunting as the project progressed. And like most assignments of the time, the merit of its intention was lost on me until long after the conclusion of the project.
Years later, the nostalgia of my collegiate years, as well as my initial exposure to woodworking, have become the inspiration for a similar project for this magazine. After receiving a positive response from our readership upon completing the Shaker Daybed for Issue #255 (November 2020) of Popular Woodworking, it seemed inevitable that a companion project would follow.
One of the main reasons for revisiting this project (besides sentiment) is that it serves as an introduction to various joinery methods. Whether you are a novice to the craft or a well-seasoned woodworker, this project will help hone or develop a skill set essential to the practice of woodworking.
Build the matching bed: Hancock Shaker Village Daybed
Still Shaker, different form: Shaker Side Table
Additional reading: Learn more about traditional Shaker construction methods.
Cutlist and Diagrams
Turning the Legs
Start off with four turning blanks, oversized in length by about 1“. Follow up by laying out the transitions where the square top meets the ogee profile (a serpentine or sigmoid-shaped architectural curve) as well as the subtle taper that extends to the bottom of the leg. For this step, a parting tool was used with a set of calipers to designate the layout progression. Once this is complete, grab a spindle gouge and create the ogee profile starting from the top. The direction in which the gouge moves in relation to the grain is deliberate as you want to “lay down” the grain rather than work against it. Following this advice prevents tear-out and allows for a much smoother cut.
With the profile complete, establish the bottom of the leg using the same layout method as before. Next, grab your roughing gouge and begin to work the taper from top to bottom. The transition is subtle, so work slowly and let the gouge do the work. Finish up the taper using a scraper followed by some light sanding.
Two-part Mortising
When it comes to mortises, I like breaking the process into two steps. First, use a drill press to establish the depth of the mortise while removing the bulk of the material. Second, pare up the walls of the mortise using a bench chisel, followed by a mortise chisel. Repeat this step for all aprons as well as stretcher mortises.
If you look at the two front legs, you will notice there is a dovetail-shaped recess on top of each leg. This is what is known as a lapped, or half-lap, dovetail joint—not to be mistaken for a half-blind dovetail. Start by sawing the cheeks on the sockets down to where your layout lines appear. Once this is complete, use a bench chisel to make a small incision at the scribe line. Follow this step by removing the material from the end grain. Repeat until you reach the scribe line on the end grain.
Once all your mortising is complete, finish up the legs by cutting the 1/2“ or so of waste left behind from turning. Set the legs aside and turn your attention towards the aprons.
Aprons & Stretchers
Mill all the necessary parts so that you end up with three aprons and two stretchers cut to their final dimensions. Using the table saw, start by cutting the shoulders on all three aprons as well as the top and bottom stretcher. Then, adjust your fence and begin to cut the cheeks. Rotate your board so that it’s perpendicular to the fence and proceed to cut the short-end shoulders on both sides. Reset your fence once again and waste out the middle section to create the twin tenon on the aprons. With the table saw still set up, cut a 1/4“ groove on the top of all three aprons, along with the top stretcher—you will see why later. To finish off the stretchers, cut the half-lap dovetail tails using a hand saw. Since the bottom shoulder has already been established, cut the waste on the short shoulder free.
Stress-free Glue-up
Before you commit to your glueup, take this time to ensure all your joints fit properly by conducting a dry assembly. A table of this size is best assembled in stages to ensure all parts come together level and square.
Begin by creating the back and front assemblies. Once the assemblies are dry, bring the table together by introducing the two side aprons. Then, add the drawer cleats to the inside of each left and right apron. Since the grain runs parallel to that of the aprons, these were just “scabbed on” using wood glue.
Drawer, Not Drawers
Applying similar methods used in the half-lap dovetail for the top stretcher, start by creating the tails on the drawer sides. Once these are modified to your satisfaction, use them as templates to layout the sockets on the drawer front. Make the initial cheek cuts down to the scribe line and finish the waste-removal process off with a sharp bench chisel and a heavy mallet.
The back of the drawer gets an unusual treatment, as you can see from the illustration at the top of the article. An oversized through-dovetail was created to secure the back. Implementing similar processes, create the tail on the drawer back, first. Once again, lay out the socket locations using the tail as a template. Waste out the material with a fret or coping saw and pare up the shoulders with a bench chisel.
After you have checked the fit of your “perfectly” hand-cut dovetails, create a 1/4“ groove on both drawer sides as well as the front. The groove for the two sides can be done at the table saw, but you will notice that the front has a stopped groove. This was done by first creating a 1/4“ pilot hole on one side using a drill press, then finishing it over at the router table. Glue it up and then add the drawer bottom. With the drawer complete, you can go ahead and attach a knob of your choosing.
A Top to Talk About
Now, we could have settled for a traditional square Shaker top. However, this felt like a great opportunity to distinguish it from its predecessors. Start by creating a rectangular blank cut to its final dimensions, then create a bevel on the bottom as well as on all four sides using a low-angle Jack plane. If you lack confidence in your hand planning skills or would like to expedite the process, you can make the cut at the table saw—no judgment. If you do decide to use a plane, make “shearing cuts” at a 45° angle to prevent tear out on the end grain (see Photo 21).
With the bevels complete, make a template with an arc on all four sides. Attach the template to the top using double-sided tape and proceed to cut the subtle curve over at the band saw. With the template still attached, clean up the edges at the router using a pattern bit. This simple, two-part procedure yields visual results that will be sure to invoke inquiry.
Button Tabs and Drawer Fitting
To attach the top, I went ahead and created my own button tabs. As mentioned earlier, a groove was cut into the inside of each apron in addition to the top stretcher. This was done to house the tabs and allows for seasonal movement of the tabletop. Make sure to oversize the screw holes on the tabs so that the threads only engage with the top.
There are many ways to fit a drawer (enough to fill an entire article), so I’ll attempt to keep it brief. With the drawer cleats already installed, go ahead and insert the runners. I like to leave about a 1/32“ reveal on all four sides of the drawer front. To account for the 1/4“ recess of the drawer, install a couple of stop blocks to the inside of the back apron.
Once you get close to the desired fit and your finish has been applied, add a bit of paraffin wax to the area of contact to ensure a smooth operation when opening the drawer.
A Touch of Color
With the construction of the table complete, it’s time to decide what to use for finish. I went ahead and employed the use of milk paint on the legs as well as the drawer knob. A common application for the Shakers, milk paint has a uniquely intense depth of color with a muted sheen. Touted for its rugged and long-lasting durability (due to the bonding agents), adding milk paint to a project is a great way to personalize as well as modernize a more traditional form.
To further protect the longevity of the paint, apply a liberal coat of paste wax to the surface and then buff it out. Continue this process for the remainder of the table and the drawer. Since the top will be more vulnerable to wear and tear, a pre-catalyzed lacquer is applied to ensure a durable and moisture-inhibiting finish.