The current heat wave is not the last we will see. “We’re getting more severe heat more often,” said Sharon Yiesla, plant knowledge specialist in the Plant Clinic at The Morton Arboretum. “It’s one of the ways our climate is changing.”
There are ways you can help your garden plants survive waves of heat in the 90s and above. Here are some tips from the Plant Clinic.
Water
Plants can only cool themselves by allowing water to evaporate from tiny holes in their leaves, but they need water in their leaves to do that. “Plants are 80 to 90 percent water,” Yiesla said. “All their life processes depend on it.”
Rainfall can supply some water, but don’t count on it. “Check that there is actually moisture several inches deep in the soil,” she said. “Sometimes rain just wets the surface but doesn’t penetrate down to where the roots can absorb it.”
Think Ahead
Pay attention to the weather forecast, and if temperatures in the 90s are predicted, water thoroughly the day before. “Your plants will be much more resilient if they are already stoked up with water when the heat hits,” Yiesla said. There will also be a reservoir of moisture in the soil for the plants’ roots to draw on.
Don’t wait for plants to wilt as a signal to water. “Wilting means they’re already stressed,” she said. “You want to keep them from getting stressed in the first place.” If you do spot plants drooping or wilting, water them right away.
Mulch
A layer of mulch over the roots of your plants helps in two ways: It insulates the soil against extremes of temperature, and it prevents moisture from evaporating. You can apply mulch any time, so go ahead and spread it if you haven’t already.
Make a layer 1 to 2 inches deep on perennial beds and 3 to 4 inches around trees and shrubs. Spread the mulch out evenly, rather than piling it up against the trunk or stems. Try to keep mulch clear of the bark of a tree or shrub.
Water Deeply
Rather than lightly sprinkling the soil surface, water long enough so that the moisture sinks several inches down. “In normal weather, wait several days before watering again,” Yiesla said. “In very hot weather, the plants may quickly use up the water in soil, so check to see if it’s dry and you should water more often.”
Expect Some Effects
In very hot weather, “plants are focused on surviving, not blooming or fruiting,” Yiesla said. Tomatoes, for example, won’t be pollinated or set fruit in temperatures over 90 degrees, and temperatures consistently in the 90s can prevent them from ripening. “Just keep watering to help them hang in there until days get a little cooler,” she said.
Water Containers Often
Soil is a plant’s moisture reservoir, and since pots don’t hold much soil, they dry out quickly. “In really hot weather, you may need to water containers more than once a day,” Yiesla said.
New Plants Need Extra Help
Any trees, shrubs, or perennials that you installed this year will need even more watering. “New plants don’t have much of a root system, so they can’t absorb water as readily as established plants,” she said. Provide extra water for any trees or shrubs that you have planted in the last three years.
Help Mature Trees Too
A day or two of temperatures in the 90s won’t faze a grand old shade tree. But in long periods of hot, dry weather, water your mature trees. “A big tree has tens of thousands of leaves, and they all need to be full of water to keep the tree cool and healthy,” Yiesla said. Apply water to as much of the root zone as you can—at least as far as the tree’s branches extend.
“You’ll be helping yourself too,” she said. “As water evaporates from tree leaves, it cools the air. And of course, there’s no better place to be on a hot day than in the shade of a big tree.”
Facts Only
* Plants are 80 to 90 percent water, and all life processes depend on it.
* Plants cool themselves by allowing water to evaporate from holes in their leaves.
* Rainfall does not guarantee moisture penetration to the root zone.
* Watering thoroughly the day before predicted high temperatures increases plant resilience.
* Wilting is a sign of existing stress, signaling the need for immediate watering.
* Mulch insulates soil against temperature extremes and prevents moisture evaporation.
* Mulch recommendations include 1-2 inches for perennial beds and 3-4 inches around trees and shrubs.
* Water should be applied deeply to allow moisture to sink several inches down.
* In very hot weather, plants focus on survival rather than blooming or fruiting.
* Tomatoes in temperatures over 90 degrees may not be pollinated or set fruit.
* New plants require extra watering due to limited root systems.
* Mature trees need water in long periods of hot, dry weather for cooling and health.
Executive Summary
Full Take
The advice presented establishes a clear tension between immediate environmental stress and proactive, measured management. The core pattern observed is that plant survival during heat events depends on managing the soil moisture reservoir rather than simply reacting to visible symptoms like wilting. This suggests an underlying assumption in many garden practices—that surface watering or reactive care suffices—is insufficient when climate variability increases severity.
The emphasis shifts from providing water to plants to creating stable, buffered environments for them. Mulch serves as a physical mechanism to buffer temperature swings and moisture loss, acting as a passive resilience layer. Furthermore, the distinction between surface wetting and deep saturation highlights a common disconnect: the immediate need to provide hydration versus the physiological requirement for water uptake versus root access.
The implications point toward a necessary paradigm shift: recognizing that ecological resilience requires anticipating conditions rather than simply mitigating symptoms. The advice on mature trees specifically introduces a layer of complexity, suggesting that collective, large-scale care is required to manage microclimates—as seen in shade provided by large canopy—which moves the focus from individual plant management to ecosystem stewardship. The pattern suggests that when facing systemic change, individual interventions must address not just the immediate deficit (water) but also the structural context (soil depth, insulation).
Bridge questions: If surface moisture management is insufficient, what long-term soil health practices would build greater inherent drought resistance? How can garden practices account for unpredictable shifts in rainfall patterns that undermine pre-planned watering schedules? What are the cascading effects when individual attention focuses solely on short-term survival without addressing broader climatic pressures?
Sentinel — Human
The text reads like synthesized advice derived directly from an expert interview, focusing on practical steps for plant survival during heat, supported by specific contextual examples.
