When we talk about Longines on the website, we usually do so in the context of their vintage reissues and vintage inspired watches. They’ve carved out a niche for themselves in this particular area that is basically unrivaled among the big Swiss brands. From the Legend Diver onwards, they’ve done a remarkable job of raiding the archives and bringing back both popular and oddball references of historical significance. Similarly, their most important contemporary line, the Spirit Collection, is itself heavily influenced by the aesthetics and design codes of midcentury watches.
That isn’t to say that Longines has neglected more contemporary designs. They’ve dipped into ultra-modern territory (with a great deal of success) pretty recently with bold updates to the Ultra-Chron, for example. But I think it’s fair to say that they aren’t necessarily the brand you look to if you’re thinking about picking up a solid, modern dive watch. It’s just not their lane, and some of their competitors have really nailed this genre down pretty hard.
So this is the framework for a big relaunch this Spring for the HydroConquest, a line that has already gone through a handful of redesigns and shuffling over the years, most recently becoming a vehicle for a GMT complication in a case size that frankly strains even the most burly of wrists. There’s never really been anything wrong with the HydroConquest, per se, but for a variety of reasons it’s not usually mentioned in the same breath as dive watches made by Tudor, TAG Heuer, and others, even though the pricing has always been comparable or quite a bit better, and watches themselves stand up in terms of overall quality.
The revamped HydroConquest collection introduced today seems to be a pretty direct shot of some of the mainstream dive watches that have become popular in recent years. There’s been a concerted effort on the part of Longines to really improve the fit and finish of these watches, and the case, bezel, and dial all have subtle refinements that just make them a little bit better. They’re also offered in two sizes, one of which I found to be just about perfect.
We’ll start with the cases, as that was really the most impressive component to me when I got a look at the new HydroConquest lineup at the annual Longines preview event for media. In addition to a 42mm case, the HydroConquest will also be available in a 39mm size, which I think is probably ideal for most wrists and felt particularly comfortable on mine. It’s very well proportioned and uncomplicated, which I think is an underrated quality in a watch like this. There’s no attempt at reinventing the wheel here, it’s a straightforward but well executed brushed finish all around, with classic dive watch lines.
Longines is also very proud of the new ceramic bezels that have been produced for these watches, including one in a new “luminous blue” colorway that is, well, very blue, although it doesn’t actually “glow” in the way watch enthusiasts would typically expect when the word luminous is mentioned. Black, blue, slate gray and green bezel options are also available, with dials in matching colors (the slate gray bezel is paired with a black dial, and there’s also a black bezel/ice blue option that is an e-commerce and boutique exclusive). The bezel action is very tactile and feels great – Longines tells us that it’s the same rotating bezel system found in the Ultra-Chron diver.
The other big change for the new HydroConquest line is the addition of a Milanese mesh bracelet to the collection. I’ll be honest here and admit that this particular style of bracelet has never been my go-to, but when they’re dialed in and sized just right, they can be very comfortable. The Longines version seen on the new HydroConquest is nicely tapered and features micro-adjustment on the clasp, so it should be easy to get the fit just right. It also looks great, with a brushed finish all around and polished sides. The new HydroConquest references are also available on the familiar H-link bracelet that was introduced with the GMT models in 2023.
Pricing is extremely competitive. The H-link bracelet models retail for $2,200, and the Milanese mesh bracelet references sell for $2,400. Considering the high quality of the finishing and components (glossy dials, ceramic bezels, precisely brushed cases) and a solid Longines-exclusive L888.5 caliber 72 hours of power reserve and a magnetic resistant silicon balance spring, I think this is one of a small handful of new watches from a big Swiss brand that we can honestly say is very fairly priced for what you get. Again, it’s not revolutionizing anything, and there’s nothing particularly daring about these watches (they might not be the focus of attention at a watch meetup), but they are very well considered and represent a big improvement over previous versions of the HydroConquest.
More on the HydroConquest can be found at the Longines website here.